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{{Английская Википедия/Панель перехода}}
{{Short description|Traditional Korean clothing}}
{{distinguish|Hanfu}}
{{Italic title}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=September 2020}}
{{Infobox clothing type
|title=Hanbok
|material=Diverse
|location=[[Korea]] 
|image_file=[[File:Hanbok (female and male).jpg|Hanbok (female and male)|150px]]
|caption=People wearing {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}
|introduced=At least since [[Goguryeo]] period
}}
{{Infobox Chinese
| skhangul = {{linktext|한복}}
| skhanja = {{linktext|韓服}}
| skrr = Hanbok
| skmr = Hanbok
| nkhangul = {{linktext|조선옷}}
| nkhanja = {{linktext|朝鮮}}옷
| nkrr = Joseon-ot
| nkmr = Chosŏn-ot
| ibox-order = 
| c = 
| altname = 
| l = Korean (ethnic) clothing
}}
The '''{{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=한복|hanja=韓服|lit=Korean dress}}) is a [[traditional clothing]] of the [[Koreans|Korean people]]. The term {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} is primarily used by South Koreans; North Koreans refer to the clothes as '''{{transliteration|ko|chosŏn-ot}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=조선옷|labels=no}}, {{Literal translation|Korean clothes}}). The clothes are also worn in the [[Korean diaspora]], especially by [[Koreans in China]].<ref>{{Cite book |last=Zang |first=Yingchun |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/57675221 |title=Zhongguo shao shu min zu fu shi |last2= |date=2007 |publisher=Wu zhou chuan bo chu ban she |others=臧迎春. |isbn=978-7-5085-0379-0 |edition=Di 1 ban |location=Beijing |oclc=57675221}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Minority Ethnic Clothing : Korean (Chaoxianzu) Clothing |url=http://baoku.gmu.edu/exhibits/show/minority-ethnic-clothing/korean-clothing |access-date=23 August 2022 |website=baoku.gmu.edu}}</ref><ref>Korean Culture and Information Service, 2018, Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism of the Republic of Korea</ref>

Koreans have worn {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} since antiquity. The earliest visual depictions of {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} can be traced back to the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea]] period (57 BC to 668 AD) with roots in the [[Yemaek|Proto-Koreanic people]] of what is now [[Geography of North Korea|northern Korea]] and [[Manchuria]]. The clothes are also depicted on tomb murals from the [[Goguryeo]] period (4th to 6th century AD), with the basic structure of the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} established since at latest this period.<ref name="Dead-Goguryeo Tomb Murals 2007">The Dreams of the Living and the Hopes of the Dead-Goguryeo Tomb Murals, 2007, Ho-Tae Jeon, Seoul National University Press</ref> The ancient {{Transliteration|ko|hanbok}} consisted of a {{transliteration|ko|[[jeogori]]}} (top), {{transliteration|ko|[[baji (clothing)|baji]]}} (pants), {{transliteration|ko|[[Chima (clothing)|chima]]}} (skirt), and the ''{{transliteration|ko|[[po (clothing)|po]]}}'' (coat). The basic structure of {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} was designed to facilitate the ease of movement and integrated many motifs of [[Korean shamanism|Mu-ism]].<ref name=":16">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1253353500|title=Flags, color, and the legal narrative : public memory, identity, and critique|date=2021|publisher=Springer|others=Anne Wagner, Sarah Marusek|isbn=978-3-030-32865-8|location=Cham, Switzerland|pages=125|oclc=1253353500}}</ref>

For thousands of years, the [[White clothing in Korea|''hanbok'' most people wore was pure white]] with no ornamentation. More ornate {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} was typically reserved for special occasions such as weddings. For some periods, commoners ({{transliteration|ko|seomin}}) were even forbidden from wearing colorful {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} regularly.<ref name=":7">{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/680802927 |title=Passport to Korean culture. |date=2009 |publisher=[[Korean Culture and Information Service]] |others=Haeoe Hongbowŏn |isbn=978-89-7375-153-2 |edition=2009 |location=Seoul, Korea |oclc=680802927}}</ref>{{Rp|page=104}}<ref name=":8">{{Cite book |last=Gwak |first=Sung Youn Sonya |title=Be(com)ing Korean in the United States: Exploring Ethnic Identity Formation Through Cultural Practices |publisher=[[Cambria Press]] |year=2006 |isbn=9781621969723}}</ref><ref name=":10">{{Cite web |last=Lopez Velazquez |first=Laura |date=2021 |title=Hanbok during the Goryeo and Joseon dynasty |url=https://www.korea.net/TalkTalkKorea/Korean/community/community/CMN0000009345 |access-date=21 August 2022 |website=[[Korea.net]]}}</ref> However, in other periods, commoners were not allowed to wear white, including during the [[Korea under Japanese rule|Japanese occupation of Korea]].

Modern {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} are typically patterned after the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} worn in the [[Joseon|Joseon dynasty]],<ref name=":16" /> especially those worn by the nobility and royalty.<ref name=":7" />{{Rp|page=104}}<ref name=":8" /> There is some regional variation in {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} design between South Korea, North Korea, and [[Koreans in China]] as a result of the relative isolation from each other that these groups experienced in the late 20th century.<ref name=":5">{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/857463468 |title=Women entrepreneurs: inspiring stories from emerging economies and developing countries |date=2014 |publisher=Routledge |others=Mauro F. Guillén |isbn=978-1-136-32459-8 |location=New York |oclc=857463468}}</ref>{{Rp|page=246|pages=}}<ref name=":24" /> Despite this, the designs have somewhat converged again since the 1990s,<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Chang |first=In-Woo |date=2006 |title=Change in Hanbok of South and North Korea after the Division and the Interexchange -Focusing on Women's Jeogori- |url=https://koreascience.kr/article/JAKO200612842609717.page |journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles |volume=30 |issue=1 |pages=106–114 |issn=1225-1151}}</ref> especially due to increased cultural and economic exchange after the [[Chinese economic reform]].<ref name=":25" /><ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=246}} Nowadays, contemporary Koreans wear {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} for formal or semi-formal occasions and events such as weddings, festivals, celebrations, and ceremonies. In 1996, the South Korean [[Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism]] established Hanbok Day to encourage South Korean citizens to wear the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}.<ref>{{Cite web  |date=15 September 2014 |title=한복데이, 전국 5개 도시서 펼쳐진다 |url=http://www.kukinews.com/newsView/kuk201409150150 |access-date=11 March 2022 |website=쿠키뉴스 |language=ko}}</ref>

== Etymology ==
The term ''{{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}'' appeared relatively recently and is connected with the historical context in which it appeared. The term emerged in the late Joseon period, when the [[Empire of Japan]] and other western countries competed to place Korea under their own sphere of influence. The first known use of the term is in an 1881 document from the late Joseon period entitled {{transliteration|ko|Chŏngch'iilgi}} ({{Korean|hangul=《정치일기》|labels=no}}).<ref name=":52">역사 속의 우리 옷 변천사, 2009, Chonnam National University Press</ref><ref>{{Cite web|last=김 |first=여경|date=2010|title=2000년 이후 인쇄매체에 나타난 한복의 조형미 연구|url=http://scienceon.kisti.re.kr/srch/selectPORSrchArticle.do?cn=DIKO0011925322|access-date=24 July 2021|website=ScienceON|language=KO}}</ref> There, {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} is used to distinguish Korean clothing from Japanese- and Western-style clothing. ''{{transliteration|ko|Hanbok}}'' was again used in an 1895 document to distinguish between Korean and Japanese clothing. These two usages predate the [[Korean Empire|Korean Empire's]] popularization of the use of the [[hanja]] character {{transliteration|ko|Han}} ({{Hanja|韓}}) to describe the Korean people.{{Citation needed|date=June 2023}}

Beginning in 1900, Korean newspapers used the hanja character ''{{transliteration|ko|Han}}'' in words that described Korean clothing, such as {{Transliteration|ko|Han'gugŭibok}} ({{Korean|hangul=한국의복|labels=no}}), {{Transliteration|ko|Han'gugyebok}} ({{Korean|hangul=한국예복|labels=no}}), and {{Transliteration|ko|Taehannyŏbok}} ({{Korean|hangul=대한녀복|labels=no}}). ''{{transliteration|ko|Hanbok}}'' was used in a 1905 newspaper article to describe the clothing of one of the [[righteous army|righteous armies]]. Other words with similar meanings, such as {{Transliteration|ko|uri-ot}} ({{Korean|hangul=우리옷|labels=no}}) and {{transliteration|ko|chosŏn-ot}} ({{Korean|hangul=조선옷|labels=no}}), were concurrently used.

Since the [[division of Korea]], South Korea has preferred the term {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} while North Korea has preferred the term {{transliteration|ko|Chosŏn-ot}}. This reflects the general trend of South Korea's preference for the term {{transliteration|ko|Han}} and North Korea's for {{transliteration|ko|Chosŏn}}.{{Citation needed|date=June 2023}}

== Components and design ==
[[File:Hanbok scheme.svg|thumb|{{ubl|A diagram of the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}'s anatomy|1. {{transliteration|ko|hwajang}}|2. {{transliteration|ko|godae}}|3. {{transliteration|ko|somae buri}}|4. {{transliteration|ko|somae}}|5. {{transliteration|ko|goreum}}|6. {{transliteration|ko|u}}|7. {{transliteration|ko|doryeon}}|8, 11. {{transliteration|ko|jindong}}|9. {{transliteration|ko|gil}}|10. {{transliteration|ko|baerae}}|12. {{transliteration|ko|git}}|13. {{transliteration|ko|dongjeong}}}}]]

For women, traditional {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} consist of the {{transliteration|ko|[[jeogori]]}} (top) and the {{transliteration|ko|[[chima (clothing)|chima]]}} (skirt). The ensemble is often known as {{transliteration|ko|'[[chima jeogori]]'}}. For men, {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} consist of {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} and loose-fitting {{transliteration|ko|baji}} (trousers).<ref name="KBS">{{cite web |url=http://english.kbs.co.kr/korea/culture/clothing/ink_clt.html |title=Traditional clothing |publisher=[[KBS (Korea)|KBS Global]] |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080317124313/http://english.kbs.co.kr/korea/culture/clothing/ink_clt.html |archive-date=17 March 2008 }}</ref>

There are also a variety of vests, jackets and coats on top of this ensemble. For women, there are ''Jangsam'', ''Dansam'', ''[[Wonsam]]'', and more. For men, some examples are {{transliteration|ko|[[durumagi]]}}, {{transliteration|ko|[[dopo (clothing)|dopo]]}}, ''Danryeong-ui'', ''Joong-chimak'', ''Sochang-ui'', ''Daechang-ui'', etc.

=== Jeogori ===
{{Main|Jeogori}}
[[File:Korea-Busan-Beomeosa-04.jpg|thumb|Jeogori and chima]]The {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} is the basic upper garment of the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}, worn by both men and women. It covers the arms and upper part of the wearer's body.<ref name="Doosan">{{cite web |url=http://map.encyber.com/search_w/ctdetail.php?&masterno=133796&contentno=133796 |script-title=ko:저고리 |publisher=[[Doosan Encyclopedia]] |access-date=29 September 2008 |language=ko |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090315034024/http://map.encyber.com/search_w/ctdetail.php?&masterno=133796&contentno=133796 |archive-date=15 March 2009 }}</ref><ref name="HanbokBritannica">{{cite web|url=http://100.empas.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=B&i=183581&v=47 |script-title=ko:저고리 |publisher=[[Empas]] / [[Britannica]] |access-date=29 September 2008 |language=ko}}</ref>

There are various styles and types of {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} varying in fabric, sewing technique, and shape.<ref name="Britannica" /><ref name="Jeogori Reborns with New Visions of a Thousand">{{cite web |title=Jeogori Before 1910 |url=http://www.jeogori.org/en/entry/Before1910s |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210224210339/https://jeogori.org/en/entry/Before1910s |archive-date=24 February 2021 |access-date=27 June 2009 |publisher=Gwangju Design Biennale}}</ref> The basic form of a {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} consists of ''gil'', ''git'', ''dongjeong'', ''goreum'' and sleeves. ''Gil'' ({{Korean|hangul=길|labels=no}}) is the large section of the garment on both front and back sides, and ''git'' ({{Korean|hangul=깃|labels=no}}) is a band of fabric that trims the collar. ''Dongjeong'' ({{Korean|hangul=동정|labels=no}}) is a removable white collar placed over the end of the ''git'' and is generally squared off. The ''goreum'' ({{Korean|hangul=고름|labels=no}}) are fabric-strings that tie the {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}}.<ref name="KBS" /> Women's {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} may have ''kkeutdong'' ({{Korean|hangul=끝동|labels=no}}), a different colored [[cuff]] placed at the end of the sleeves. Contemporary {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} are presently designed with various lengths.

==== ''Goreum'' ====
''Goreum'' refers to the strings that fasten clothes together.

Traditionally, there are many types of ''goreum.'' Fabric ''goreum'' were potentially used since [[Gojoseon]]. They were originally practical but often decorative. [[Silla]] had regulations against types of ''Dae'' (belts) and decorative ''goreum'' for each [[Bone-rank system|Golpoom]]. Southern parts of Korea, including [[Silla]], had a colorful ''goreum'' on the front of the neck, which influenced [[Yayoi period|Yayoi]] culture. Parts of [[Goguryeo]] style had a fabric ''goreum'' loop around the waist with a decorative ribbon to the side like a belt. Generally, thin and short ones were used on the inside and more decorative, colourful ones were used on the outside. Since the early form of the {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} was usually wrapped across the front, the outside ''goreum'' was placed on the side of the wearer, below the armpit. Starting in [[Joseon dynasty]], the ''goreum'' slowly moved to the front of the {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}}. In the 20th century, the ''goreum'' became the commonly known long and wide decorative ribbons on the front of the {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} and was coined the ''Ot-goreum.''

==== ''Danchu'' ====
Danchu (buttons) can also be used as an alternative to Goreum.

There are many types of danchu. One example is the Maedeup-danchu which were often used to keep symmetrical collars together in the front and used for practical uses on military uniforms and court uniforms. They have long horizontal lines on either side like [[Qing dynasty|Manchurian]] buttons or looked like a ball and lasso. Magoja-danchu are often big decorative metal, gems or stones buttons usually on Jokki (vest).<ref>{{Cite web |title=단추|url=http://encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Contents/Item/E0013683 |access-date=9 July 2022 |website=[[Encyclopedia of Korean Culture]]}}</ref>

=== Chima ===
{{Main|Chima (clothing)}}
''Chima'' refers to "skirt", and is also called ''sang'' ({{linktext|裳}}) or ''gun'' ({{linktext|裙}}) in [[hanja]].<ref name="EncyKorea">{{cite web|url=http://100.empas.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=268156&v=45 |script-title=ko:치마 |publisher=[[Nate (web portal)|Nate]] / [[Encyclopedia of Korean Culture|EncyKorea]] |language=ko}}</ref><ref name="Doosan" /><ref name="Britannica">{{cite web|url=http://100.empas.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=B&i=191326&v=45 |script-title=ko:치마 |publisher=[[Nate (web portal)|Nate]] / [[Britannica]] |language=ko}}</ref> The underskirt, or [[petticoat]] layer, is called ''sokchima''. ''Chima-malgi'' is the waistband that trims the top of the ''chima''. ''Chima'' were typically made from rectangular panels that were [[pleat]]ed or [[gather (sewing)|gathered]] into the ''chima-malgi'' (waistband).<ref name="CHA">{{cite web |title=Important Folklore Materials:117-23 |url=http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_db=2&v_doc_no=00003619&v_disp_type=1&v_list=0 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120227175740/http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_db=2&v_doc_no=00003619&v_disp_type=1&v_list=0 |archive-date=27 February 2012 |access-date=7 January 2010 |publisher=[[Cultural Heritage Administration]]}}</ref> This waistband also had ''goreum'' strings for fastening the skirt around the body.<ref name="CHA2">{{cite web |title=Important Folklore Materials: 229-1-4. Skirt belonging to a Jinju Ha clan woman, who died in 1646 |url=http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_kw_str=&v_db_query=A4%3A22&v_db=2&v_doc_no=00004021&v_dblist=2&v_start_num=71&v_disp_type=4 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120227175748/http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_kw_str=&v_db_query=A4:22&v_db=2&v_doc_no=00004021&v_dblist=2&v_start_num=71&v_disp_type=4 |archive-date=27 February 2012 |access-date=7 January 2010 |publisher=[[Cultural Heritage Administration]]}}</ref> From the Goguryeo to Joseon periods, ''chima'' have been striped, pleated, patchworked, and [[Gore (segment)|gored]].<ref name="Doosan" />

''Sokchima'' was largely made in a traditional way until the early 20th century when shoulder straps were added,<ref name="GoodPeople">{{cite web|url=http://www.j.co.kr/UnderwearHistory/korean/under_elight07.htm |title=World Underwear History: Enlightenment Era |publisher=Good People Co. Ltd. |access-date=7 January 2010 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100507071544/http://www.j.co.kr/UnderwearHistory/korean/under_elight07.htm |archive-date=7 May 2010 }}</ref> later developing into a sleeveless bodice or "reformed" petticoat called ''Eo-Kkeh-Heo-ri-Chima''.<ref name="GoodPeople2">{{cite web|url=http://www.j.co.kr/UnderwearHistory/korean/under_elight08.htm |title=World Underwear History: Enlightenment Era |publisher=Good People Co. Ltd. |access-date=7 January 2010 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100507072422/http://www.j.co.kr/UnderwearHistory/korean/under_elight08.htm |archive-date=7 May 2010 }}</ref> By the mid-20th century, some outer ''chima'' also gained a sleeveless bodice, which was then covered by the {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}}.<ref name="RecycleLACMARedSkirt">{{cite web|url=http://recyclelacma.blogspot.com/2009/06/red-korean-skirt-chima_01.html |title=Recycle LACMA: Red Korean Skirt |date=June 2009 |publisher=Robert Fontenot |access-date=7 January 2010 }}</ref><ref name="RecycleLACMA">{{cite web|url=http://recyclelacma.blogspot.com/2009/06/purple-korean-skirt-chima_01.html|title=Recycle LACMA: Purple Korean Skirt|date=June 2009|publisher=Robert Fontenot|access-date=7 January 2010}}</ref>

=== Baji ===
{{Main|Baji (clothing)}}
''Baji'' refers to the bottom part of the men's {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}. It is the term for "trousers" in Korean. Compared to western style pants, {{transliteration|ko|baji}} does not fit tightly. The roomy design is aimed at making the clothing ideal for sitting on the floor and an ethnic style that dates back to the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea|Three kingdoms period]].<ref name="asia-planet.net">{{cite web |title=Korea Information |url=http://www.asia-planet.net/korea/traditional-clothing.htm |url-status=usurped |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140406184640/http://www.asia-planet.net/korea/traditional-clothing.htm |archive-date=6 April 2014 |access-date=8 October 2014}}</ref> It functions as modern trousers do and the term {{transliteration|ko|baji}} is commonly used in Korea to refer to every kind of pants.

The ''baji-malgi'' is a waistband of the {{transliteration|ko|baji}} that has a long string of ''goreum''.

{{transliteration|ko|Baji}} can be unlined trousers, leather trousers, silk pants, or cotton pants, depending on style of dress, sewing method, embroidery and so on.

===Sokgot===
{{Main|Sokgot}}
'''Sokgot''' ({{Korean|hangul = 속곳|labels=no }}) is a collective noun for various types of traditional [[Korean culture|Korean]] [[underwear|undergarments]]. They were worn as part of a hanbok before the import of Western-style underwear. Women usually wore several layers of undergarments, the more layers they had the richer they were.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://evoice.ewha.ac.kr/news/articleView.html?idxno=688|title=Underwear Coming Out: No More a Taboo|publisher=Ehwa Voice|accessdate=2013-11-08|date=2005-09-01}}</ref> Undergarments were considered very important, thus it happened that the quality and material of the underwear was better than that of the visible outer layers.<ref name="hanstyle">{{cite web|url=http://www.han-style.com/english/hanbok/basic.jsp|title=About hanbok|publisher=han-style.com|accessdate=2013-09-20}}</ref>

=== Deot-ot ===
''Deot-ot'' refers to a category of outer layers worn on top of the {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}}. There are many varieties other than the ones listed here.

==== Po ====
{{Main article|Po (clothing)|Durumagi}}
''Po'' is a generic term referring to an outer [[robe]] or [[overcoat]]. There are two general types of ''po'', the Korean type and the Chinese type.<ref name="Encyclopedia of Korean Culture">{{cite web |script-title=ko:포 (袍) |url=http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?docId=531496&cid=46671&categoryId=46671 |access-date=23 April 2015 |publisher=[[Encyclopedia of Korean Culture]] |language=ko}}</ref> The Korean type is a common style from the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea]] period, and it is used in the modern day.<ref name="Doosan" /><ref name="Encyclopedia of Korean Culture" /> The Chinese type consist of different types of ''po'' from mainland China.<ref name="Encyclopedia of Korean Culture" />

''Durumagi'' is a type of ''po'' that was worn for protection against the cold. It has been widely worn as an outer robe over {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} and {{transliteration|ko|baji}}. It is also called ''jumagui'', ''juchaui'', or ''juui''.<ref name="EncyKorea" /><ref name="Doosan" /><ref name="Britannica1">{{cite web |script-title=ko:두루마기 |url=http://100.empas.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=B&i=128263&v=45 |access-date=30 September 2008 |publisher=[[Empas]] / [[Britannica]] |language=ko}}</ref>

==== Banbi ====
''Banbi'' (Chinese: 半臂 bàn bì, literally “half sleeve”) are a type [[Hanfu]] that originated from the [[Tang dynasty]]. Banbi refers to variety of short sleeved garments worn on top of inner garments, typically the ''Yuanling pao'' (Chinese: 圓領袍， “round collar robe”). Numerous outer half-sleeved Banbi can be seen in ancient Tang-era paintings, murals, and statues.<ref>Congwen Shen 沈從文. Research on Ancient Chinese Clothing 中國古代服飾研究．Hong Kong Publishing Company, 1981 香港：商務印書館，1981</ref>

==== Bigap ====
A sleeveless outer garment that was derived from [[Mongol Empire|Mongolian]] clothing worn during the [[Goryeo]] period.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=최 |first=해율 |date=2007 |title=A Study on the Design of Historical Costume for Making Movie & multimedia-Focused on rich women's costume of Goryeo-yang and Mongol-pung in Thirteenth to Fourteenth Century- |url=https://www.kci.go.kr/kciportal/ci/sereArticleSearch/ciSereArtiView.kci?sereArticleSearchBean.artiId=ART001040833 |journal=한국복식학회 |volume=57 |issue=1 |pages=176–186}}</ref>

==== Baeja and kwaeja ====
Baeja refers to sleeveless outer garments that are worn on top of inner garments. It can be different lengths, short to long. ''Kwaeja'' is interchangeable with ''baeja,'' but ''kwaeja'' often refers to men's clothing.

==== Dapho ====
{{Main article|Dapho}}
The [[dapho]] is a short-sleeved men's outer garment, often part of military uniform or official uniform.

==== Jokki ====
''Jokki'' ({{Lang-ko|조끼}}) is a type of [[vest]], while ''[[magoja]]'' is an outer jacket. The ''jokki'' was created around late [[Joseon dynasty]], as [[Western culture]] began to affect Korea.

==== Magoja ====
{{Main article|Magoja}}
''Magoja'' does not have a ''git'', the band of fabric trimming the collar.<ref name="KBS" /> The ''magoja'' for men sometimes has ''seop'' ({{korean|hangul=섶}}, overlapped column on the front) and is longer than women's ''magoja'', with both sides open at the bottom. A ''magoja'' can be made of [[silk]] and often adorned with ''danchu'' which are usually made from [[amber]]. In men's ''magoja'', buttons are attached to the right side, as opposed to the left as in women's ''magoja''.<ref name="Britannica1" />

It was introduced to Korea after [[Heungseon Daewongun]], the father of [[Gojong of Korea|King Gojong]], returned from his political [[exile]] in [[Tianjin]] in 1887.<ref name="Britannica1" /><ref name="Life in Korea">{{cite web |title=Men's Clothing |url=http://www.lifeinkorea.com/Culture/clothes/clothes.cfm?xURL=male |access-date=1 November 2008 |publisher=Life in Korea}}</ref> Long sleeved ''Magoja'' were derived from the ''[[Magua (clothing)|magwae]]'' he wore in exile because of the cold climate there. Owing to its warmth and ease of wear, ''magoja'' became popular in Korea. It is also called ''"deot jeogori"'' (literally "an outer {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}}") or ''magwae''.<ref name="Britannica1" />

=== Children's ''hanbok'' ===
[[File:Korean clothing-Hanbok for children-01.jpg|thumb|Children's hanbok]]

Traditionally, ''[[Kkachi durumagi]]'' (literally "a magpie's overcoat") were worn as ''seolbim'' ({{Korean|hangul=설빔|labels=no}}), new clothing and shoes worn on the Korean celebration of [[Korean New Year]], while at present, it is worn as a ceremonial garment for ''[[doljanchi|dol]]'', the celebration for a baby's first birthday.<ref name="EncyKorea Kkachi">{{cite web|url=http://100.nate.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=241774&v=45 |script-title=ko:까치두루마기 | publisher=[[Nate (web portal)|Nate]] / [[EncyKorea]] | access-date=30 September 2008 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110610044200/http://100.nate.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=241774&v=45 | archive-date=10 June 2011 | language=ko}}</ref><ref name="dol">{{cite web|url=http://www.geocities.com/ypmljulia/cooking/dol.htm|title=Geocities.com|publisher=Julia's Cook Korean site|access-date=29 November 2007|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20091027145013/http://www.geocities.com/ypmljulia/cooking/dol.htm|archive-date=27 October 2009|url-status=dead}}</ref> It is a children's colorful overcoat.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://engdic.daum.net/dicen//view_detail.do?q=%B1%EE%C4%A1%B5%CE%B7%E7%B8%B6%B1%E2%B8%A6%20%C0%D4%C0%BA%20%B3%B2%BE%C6%B1%EE%C4%A1%B5%CE%B7%E7%B8%B6%B1%E2&qalias=K144180 |script-title=ko:까치두루마기 |publisher=[[Daum Communications|Daum]] Korean-English Dictionary |language=ko, en }}{{dead link|date=December 2017 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref> It was worn mostly by young boys.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.encyber.com/search_w/ctdetail.php?33064&contentno=33064|title=Encyber.com|access-date=8 October 2014}}{{dead link|date=October 2017 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref> The clothes is also called ''obangjang durumagi'' which means "an overcoat of five directions".<ref name="EncyKorea Kkachi" /> It was worn over {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} (a jacket) and ''jokki'' (a vest), while the wearer could put ''[[jeonbok]]'' (a long vest) over it. ''Kkachi durumagi'' was also worn along with [[headgear]] such as ''[[bokgeon]]'' (a peaked cloth hat),<ref>[http://eng.actakoreana.org/clickkorea/text/14-Wedding/14-03spr-traditional.doc The Groom's Wedding Attire] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090423212820/http://eng.actakoreana.org/clickkorea/text/14-Wedding/14-03spr-traditional.doc |date=23 April 2009 }} Academia Koreana of Keimyung University</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.dprk-tour.com/sub03/04.php|title=What are the traditional national clothes of Korea?|access-date=8 October 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160110071752/http://www.dprk-tour.com/sub03/04.php|archive-date=10 January 2016|url-status=dead}}</ref> ''hogeon'' (peaked cloth hat with a tiger pattern) for young boys or ''[[gulle]]'' (decorative headgear) for young girls.<ref name="Doosan" />{{Request quotation|date=May 2015}}<ref name="tour2korea">{{cite web|url=http://visitkorea.or.kr/ena/CU/CU_EN_8_3_2.jsp |title=Hanboks (Traditional Clothing) |work=Headgear and Accessories Worn Together with Hanbok |publisher=[[Korea Tourism Organization]] |access-date=6 October 2008}}</ref>[[File:Children dressed in Korean traditional clothing at the opening ceremony for Old Korean Legation - 2018 (42300672731).jpg|thumb|Children in [[Washington DC]] wearing {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}]]

=== Foreign influences in design ===
The clothing of Korea's rulers and aristocrats after AD 7, was influenced by both foreign and [[Indigenous peoples|indigenous]] styles, including significant influences from various [[Chinese dynasties]], resulting in some styles of clothing, such as the {{transliteration|zh|[[Shenyi|simui]]}} from [[Song dynasty]],<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Kim |first=In-Suk |date=1977 |title=심의고(深依考) |url=http://koreascience.kr/article/JAKO197720336527429.page |journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Costume |volume=1 |pages=101–117 |issn=1229-6880}}</ref> ''[[gwanbok]]'' worn by male officials were generally adopted from and/or influenced by the court clothing system of the [[Tang dynasty|Tang]],<ref name=":22" /><ref name=":17">{{Cite journal |last=Kyu-Seong |first=Choi |date=2004 |title=A Study of People's Lives and Traditional Costumes in Goryeo Dynasty |url=https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO200430710432076.page |journal=The Research Journal of the Costume Culture |volume=12 |issue=6 |pages=1060–1069 |issn=1226-0401}}</ref> [[Song dynasty|Song]],<ref name=":17" /> and [[Ming dynasty|Ming dynasties]],<ref>{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1059514121 |title=Fashion, identity, and power in modern Asia |date=2018 |others=Kyunghee Pyun, Aida Yuen Wong |isbn=978-3-319-97199-5 |location=Cham, Switzerland |pages=116 |oclc=1059514121}}</ref> and Court clothing of women in the court and women of royalty were adapted from the clothing style of [[Tang dynasty|Tang]] and [[Ming dynasty|Ming]] dynasties,<ref>{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/156808055 |title=The Greenwood encyclopedia of clothing through world history |date=2008 |others=Jill Condra |isbn=978-0-313-33662-1 |location=Westport, Connecticut |oclc=156808055}}</ref><ref>McCallion, 2008, p. 221 - 228</ref> the [[Terlig|''cheolik'']] from the Mongol clothing and bestowed from the Ming court,<ref>{{Cite journal |last1=Cho |first1=Woohyun |last2=Yi |first2=Jaeyoon |last3=Kim |first3=Jinyoung |date=2015 |title=The dress of the Mongol Empire: Genealogy and diaspora of the Terlig |url=https://akjournals.com/doi/10.1556/062.2015.68.3.2 |journal=Acta Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae |language=en |volume=68 |issue=3 |pages=22–29 |doi=10.1556/062.2015.68.3.2 |issn=0001-6446}}</ref> and the ''[[magoja]]'' from Manchu clothing.

The cultural exchange was also bilateral and [[Goryeo]] {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} had cultural influence on some [[Fashion in Yuan dynasty|clothing of Yuan dynasty]] worn by the upper class (i.e. the clothing worn by Mongol royal women's clothing<ref name=":102" /> and in the Yuan imperial court<ref name=":0" />).<ref>고려(高麗)의 원(元)에 대(對)한 공녀(貢女),유홍렬,震檀學報,1957</ref> Commoners were less influenced by these foreign fashion trends, and mainly wore a style of indigenous clothing distinct from that of the upper classes.<ref name="Daum Global">{{cite web |script-title=ko:옷의 역사 |url=http://donation.enc.daum.net/wikidonation/ency.do?vol=008&code=005002003000000000 |publisher=[[Daum Communications|Daum]] / [[Global World Encyclopedia]] |language=ko}}</ref>

=== Design and social position ===
[[File:Korean.costume-Hanbok-wedding.bride-01.jpg|thumb|140px|''[[Hwarot]]'', bride clothes]]
The choice of {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} can also signal social position. Bright colors, for example, were generally worn by children and girls, and muted hues by middle aged men and women. Unmarried women often wore yellow {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} and red chima while matrons wore green and red, and women with sons donned navy. The upper classes wore a variety of colours. Contrastingly, commoners were required to wear white, but dressed in shades of pale pink, light green, gray and charcoal on special occasions.

The material of the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} also signaled status. The upper classes dressed in {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} of closely woven ramie cloth or other high grade lightweight materials in warmer months and of plain and patterned silks throughout the remainder of the year. Commoners, in contrast, were restricted to cotton. Patterns were embroidered on {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} to represent the wishes of the wearer. Peonies on a wedding dress, represented a wish for honor and wealth. Lotus flowers symbolized a hope for nobility, and bats and pomegranates showed the desire for children. Dragons, phoenixes, cranes and tigers were only for royalty and high-ranking officials.<ref>Misie Lander (January 2017). Hanbok: An Introduction to South Korea's National Dress</ref>

In addition, special variants were made for officials and shamans.<ref name="asia-planet.net" />

== History ==

=== Three Kingdoms of Korea ===
[[File:7th century painting of Koreans.png|thumb|7th-century Chinese [[Tang dynasty]] painting of envoys from the Three Kingdoms of Korea: Baekje, Goguryeo, and Silla.]]
The earliest visual depictions of {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} can be traced back to the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea]] period (57 BC to 668 AD).<ref>{{cite book|last1=Myeong-Jong|first1=Yoo|title=The Discovery of Korea: History-Nature-Cultural Heritages-Art-Tradition-Cities|date=2005|publisher=Discovery Media|isbn=978-8995609101|page=123}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-ZuImINv0soC&pg=PA366|title=Peoples of Eastern Asia|date=2004|publisher=Marshall Cavendish|isbn=9780761475545|editor1-last=Macdonald|editor1-first=Fiona|page=366|access-date=18 October 2019}}</ref><ref name=":82">{{cite book|last1=Lee|first1=Samuel Songhoon|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-F01CwAAQBAJ|title=Hanbok: Timeless Fashion Tradition|date=2015|publisher=Seoul Selection|isbn=9781624120565|access-date=18 October 2019}}</ref><ref name="KCIS2">{{cite book|last1=Korean Culture and Information Service (South Korea)|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=NoxoBgAAQBAJ&pg=PA90|title=Guide to Korean Culture: Korea's cultural heritage|date=2014|publisher=길잡이미디어|isbn=9788973755714|page=90|access-date=18 October 2019}}</ref> The origin of ancient {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} can be found in the ancient clothing of what is now today's Northern Korea and [[Manchuria]].<ref name="Greenwood2">{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=S8bTzilz1BMC&pg=PA223|title=The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through World History, Volume II|date=2008|publisher=Greenwood Publishing Group|isbn=9780313336645|editor1-last=Condra|editor1-first=Jill|page=223|access-date=18 October 2019}}</ref> Some hypothesize that the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} of antiquity can trace its origin to nomadic clothing of the [[Eurasian Steppes]] ([[Scythian clothing]]), spanning across Siberia from western Asia to Northeast Asia, interconnected by the [[Steppe Route]].<ref name="kim 7 154">Kim, Moon Ja, 2004, 7-15</ref><ref name="Lee, Kyung-Ja, 20035">Lee, Kyung-Ja, 2003</ref><ref name="스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구 - 고대 한국과의 관계">{{cite journal|title=스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구 - 고대 한국과의 관계를 중심으로|journal=한국의상디자인학회지|volume=20|issue=1 |pages=61–77|doi=10.30751/kfcda.2018.20.1.61|doi-access=free}}</ref> Reflecting its [[nomad]]ic origins in western and northern Asia, ancient {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} shared structural similarities with ''hobok'' type clothing of the nomadic cultures in East Asia'','' designed to facilitate horse-riding and ease of movement,<ref name=":52" /><ref name=":23">{{cite web |last=Kim |first=Munja |title=우리역사넷 |url=http://contents.history.go.kr/front/km/view.do?levelId=km_009_0030_0010 |website=[[National Institute of Korean History]]}}</ref><ref name="한국의상디자인학회지22">{{cite journal|last1=김소희|last2=채금석|year=2018|title=Scythai's clothing type and style: Focusing on the relationship with ancient Korea|journal=한국의상디자인학회지|volume=20|issue=1 |pages=61–77|doi=10.30751/kfcda.2018.20.1.61|doi-access=free}}</ref> such as the use of trousers and jacket for male clothing and the use of left closure in its jacket.<ref name=":20">{{Cite journal |last=Chang |first=Youngsoo (Associate Professor, Department of Cultural Heritage, Gyeongju University) |date=2020 |title=Empirical Review of the Scythian Origin Theory of Ancient Korean Costumes : Analysis of Commonalities and Differences Between Artifacts of the two Costume Types |script-title=ko:한국 고대복식의 스키타이 복식 유래설에 대한 실증적 검토 - 유물에 나타난 두 복식유형간의 공통점 및 차이점 분석 - |url=https://www.dbpia.co.kr/journal/articleDetail?nodeId=NODE09329939 |journal=복식 |language=ko |volume=70 |issue=2 |pages=188–208 |doi=10.7233/jksc.2020.70.2.188|s2cid=219652611 }}</ref> However, although the ancient {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} reflects some similarity with the Scythian clothing, numerous differences between the two types of clothing have also been observed which led associated professor Youngsoo Chang from the Department of Cultural Properties in Gyeongju University in 2020 to suggest that the theory about Scythian clothing being the archetype of the ancient {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}, a theory accepted as common knowledge in Korean academia, having to be revised.<ref name=":20" /> It is also important to note that the [[Goguryeo]] tomb murals were primarily painted in two geographical regions: [[Ji'an, Jilin|Ji'an]] ({{Lang-zh|c=集安|labels=no}}) and [[Pyongyang|Pyeongyang]].<ref name=":022">{{Cite magazine |last=National Museum of Korea Editorial Team |date=Spring 2009 |title=National Museum of Korea Vol.07 |url=https://www.museum.go.kr/site/main/filedown/QyNK362iLTX2yTPd6BVglg== |magazine=Quarterly Magazine |volume=7 |issue=7 |access-date=26 June 2022}}</ref>{{Rp|page=15}} The former is the second capital of Goguryeo while the latter is the third capital of Goguryeo from the mid-fourth to the mid-seventh centuries.<ref name=":022" />{{Rp|page=15}} While the mural paintings found in regions Ji'an typically shows the characteristics of Goguryeo people in terms of their customs and morals; those from the regions of Pyeongyang typically show the cultural influences of the [[Han dynasty]] as the Han dynasty had governed this geographical region for approximately 400 years, including Chinese-style clothing.<ref name=":022" />{{Rp|page=15}}

==== Goguryeo ====
Early forms of {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} can be seen in the art of [[Goguryeo tombs|Goguryeo tomb]] murals in the same period from the 4th to 6th century AD.<ref name="KCIS2" /><ref name="Greenwood2" /><ref name="한국의상디자인학회지22" /><ref>Nelson, 1993, p.7 & p.213-214</ref> Trousers, long jackets and ''twii'' (a sash-like belt) were worn by both men and women. Women wore skirts on top of their trousers. These basic structural and features of {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} remain relatively unchanged to this day,<ref>{{cite web|author=[[Korea Tourism Organization]]|date=20 November 2008|title=The beauty of Korean tradition - Hanbok|url=http://www.korea.net/news/News/LangView.asp?serial_no=20081111006|publisher=[[Korea.net]]}}</ref> except for the length and the ways the {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} opening was closed as over the years.<ref name=":82" /> The {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} opening was initially closed at the center front of the clothing, similar to a [[kaftan]] or closed to the left, before closing to the right side eventually became mainstream.<ref name=":82" /> Since the sixth century AD, the closing of the {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} at the right became a standard practice.<ref name=":82" /> The length of the female {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} also varied.<ref name=":82" /> For example, women's {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} seen in Goguryeo paintings of the late 5th century AD are depicted shorter in length than the man's {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}}.<ref name=":82" />

In early Goguryeo, the {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} jackets were hip-length [[Kaftan]] tunics belted at the waist, and the ''po'' overcoats were full body-length Kaftan robes also belted at the waist. The pants were roomy, bearing close similarities to the pants found at [[Noin-Ula burial site|Xiongnu burial site of Noin Ula]].{{Citation needed|date=August 2021}} Some Goguryeo aristocrats wore roomy pants with tighter bindings at the ankle than others, which may have been status symbols along with length, cloth material, and colour. Women sometimes wore pants or otherwise wore pleated skirts. They sometimes wore pants underneath their skirts.<ref name=":15">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/843418851|title=Encyclopedia of national dress : traditional clothing around the world|date=2013|others=Jill Condra|isbn=978-0-313-37637-5|location=Santa Barbara, Calif.|pages=409|oclc=843418851}}</ref>

Two types of ''hwa'' (shoes) were used, one covering only the foot, and the other covering up to the lower knee.{{Citation needed|date=August 2021}}

During this period, [[Pointed hat|conical hat]] and its similar variants, sometimes adorned with long bird feathers,<ref>{{Cite journal |last=권 |first=준희 |date=2003 |title=The Jolpung(折風) shaped headgear of Koguryo(高句麗) and Shilla(新羅) |url=https://www.kci.go.kr/kciportal/ci/sereArticleSearch/ciSereArtiView.kci?sereArticleSearchBean.artiId=ART000851432 |journal=Journal of Korean Traditional Costume |language=ko |volume=6 |issue=3 |pages=6–84 |issn=1598-8295}}</ref> were worn as headgear.<ref name="스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구 - 고대 한국과의 관계"/> Bird feather ornaments, and bird and tree motifs of golden crowns, are thought to be symbolic connections to the sky.{{Citation needed|date=August 2021}}

The Goguryeo period royal attire was known as ''ochaebok''.<ref name=":82"/> The precursor of what is now known as the ''[[durumagi]]'' was introduced during the Goguryeo period from a long coat worn by Northern Chinese.<ref name=":82" /> Originally the ''durumagi'' was worn by the upper class of Goguryeo for various ceremonies and rituals. It was later modified and worn by the general population.<ref name=":82" /> In Muyong-chong murals of ''[[Goguryeo]]'', there are male dancers in short {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} with long flexible sleeves and female dancers wearing long coats with long flexible sleeves, all performing a dance. This type of long sleeves, similar to the Chinese [[Water sleeves|water-sleeves]], was passed down to Goryeo, Joseon, and present day [[Korean dance|Korean court dances]] and [[Korean shamanism|mu-ism]] rituals.{{Citation needed|date=July 2022}}

<gallery>
File:Goguryeo tomb mural.jpg|A Goguryeo man in a hunting attire from [[Capital Cities and Tombs of the Ancient Koguryo Kingdom]], 5th century A.D., Jilin province, China.
File:Goguryeo servants.jpg|Goguryeo servants wearing a Chima (skirt) and a long {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} jacket, Goguryeo mural paintings in Jilin province, China, 5th-century AD.
File:Goguryeo tomb 07.jpg
File:수산리 고구려벽화.jpg
</gallery>

=== North-South States period ===
In the [[North-South States Period]] (698–926 AD), [[Silla]] and [[Balhae]] adopted ''[[dallyeong]]'', a [[circular-collar robe]] from the [[Tang dynasty]] of China.<ref>Lee, Tae-ok. Cho, Woo-hyun. Study on Danryung structure. Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference. 2003. pp. 49-49.</ref><ref name=":1">{{Cite journal|last1=Nam|first1=Min-yi|last2=Han|first2=Myung-Sook|date=2000|title=A Study on the Items and Shapes of Korean Shrouds|url=http://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO200011920805632.page|journal=The International Journal of Costume Culture|volume=3|issue=2|pages=100–123}}</ref> In Silla, the ''[[Round collar robe|dallyeong]]'' was introduced by [[Muyeol of Silla]] in the second year of queen [[Jindeok of Silla]].<ref name=":1"/><ref name=":22"/> The ''dallyeong'' style from China was used as ''[[gwanbok]]'', a formal attire for government officials, grooms, and ''[[dragon robe]]'', a formal attire for royalty until the end of Joseon.<ref name=":1"/>

==== United Silla ====
The [[Silla]] Kingdom unified the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea|Three Kingdoms]] in 668 AD. The [[Later Silla|Unified Silla]] (668-935 AD) was the golden age of Korea. In Unified Silla, various silks, linens, and fashions were imported from [[Tang dynasty|Tang]] China and Persia. In the process, the latest fashions trend of [[Luoyang]] which included Chinese dress styles, the second capital of Tang, were also introduced to Korea, where the Korean silhouette became similar to the Western [[Empire silhouette]]. King [[Muyeol of Silla]] personally travelled to the [[Tang dynasty]] to voluntarily request for clothes and belts; it is however difficult to determine which specific form and type of clothing was bestowed although Silla requested the bokdu (幞頭; a form of hempen hood during this period), [[Round collar robe|danryunpo]] (團領袍; round collar gown), [[banbi]], baedang (䘯襠), and pyo (褾).<ref name=":22">{{Cite journal|last1=Yu|first1=Ju-Ri|last2=Kim|first2=Jeong-Mee|date=2006|title=A Study on Costume Culture Interchange Resulting from Political Factors|journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles|volume=30|issue=3|pages=458–469}}</ref> Based on archaeological findings, it is assumed that the clothing which was brought back during Queen Jindeok rule are ''danryunpo'' and ''bokdu''.<ref name=":22"/> The bokdu also become part of the official dress code of royal aristocrats, court musicians, servants, and slaves during the reign of [[Jindeok of Silla|Queen Jindeok]]; it continued to be used throughout the Goryeo dynasty.<ref>{{Cite book|last=National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/846696816|title=Gat : traditional headgear in Korea|date=2013|publisher=길잡이미디어|others=Hyŏng-bak Pak, Eunhee Hwang, Kungnip Munhwajae Yŏn'guso|isbn=978-89-6325-987-1|location=Daejeon, Korea|oclc=846696816}}</ref> In 664 AD, [[Munmu of Silla]] decreed that the costume of the queen should resemble the costume of the [[Tang dynasty]]; and thus, women's costume also accepted the costume culture of the [[Tang dynasty]].<ref name=":22"/> Women also sought to imitate the clothing of the Tang dynasty through the adoption of shoulder straps attached to their skirts and wore the skirts over the {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}}.<ref name=":22"/><ref name=":21">{{Cite book|last=Lee|first=Samuel Songhoon.|url=http://worldcat.org/oclc/871061483|title=Hanbok : Timeless fashion tradition|year=2013|publisher=Seoul Selection |isbn=978-89-97639-41-0|oclc=871061483}}</ref> The influence of the Tang dynasty during this time was significant and the Tang court dress regulations were adopted in the Silla court.<ref name=":15" /><ref name=":9">{{Cite book|last=Pratt|first=Keith L.|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/42675362|title=Korea : a historical and cultural dictionary|date=1999|publisher=Curzon Press|others=Richard Rutt, James Hoare|isbn=978-0-7007-0464-4|location=Richmond, Surrey|pages=106|oclc=42675362}}</ref> The clothing of the Tang dynasty introduced in Silla made the clothing attire of Silla Court extravagant, and due to the extravagance, [[Heungdeok of Silla|King Heundeog]] enforced clothing prohibition during the year 834 AD.<ref name=":22" /> The general public of Silla continued to wear their own traditional clothing.<ref name=":22" />

<gallery>
File:Korea-National.Folk.Museum-01.jpg|Reconstruction of [[Silla]] king's and queen's attire
File:Gold Waist Belt from the North Mound of Hwangnamdaechong Tomb.jpg|Gold waist belt used by royalty of Silla.
File:신라 토용2.jpg|Women figures wearing Tang-dynasty style clothing, Silla.
</gallery>

==== Balhae ====
[[Balhae]] (698–926 AD) imported many various kinds of silk and cotton cloth from the Tang and diverse items from Japan including silk products and ramie. In exchange, Balhae would export fur and leather. The clothing culture of Balhae was heterogeneous; it was not only influenced by the Tang dynasty but also had inherited Goguryeo and indigenous [[Mohe people]] elements.<ref name=":4">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/864678409|title=A new history of Parhae|date=2012|publisher=Global Oriental|others=John B. Duncan, Tongbuga Yŏksa Chaedan |isbn=978-90-04-24299-9 |location=Leiden |oclc=864678409}}</ref> Early Balhae officials wore clothing appeared to continue the Three Kingdoms period tradition.<ref name=":4" /> However, after [[Mun of Balhae]], Balhae started to incorporate elements from the Tang dynasty, which include the ''putou'' and round collared gown for its official attire.<ref name=":4" /> Male everyday clothing was similar to Gogoryeo clothing in terms of its headgear; i.e. hemp or conical hats with bird feathers; they also wore leather shoes and belts.<ref name=":4" /> Women clothing appears to have adopted clothing from Tang dynasty (i.e. upper garment with long sleeves which is partially covered by a long skirts and shoes with curled tips to facilitate walking) but also wore the ''ungyeon'' (Yunjuan; a silk shawl) which started to appear after the demise of the Tang dynasty. The Ungyeon use is unique to late Balhae period and is distinctive from the shawl which was worn by the women of the Tang dynasty.<ref name=":4" /> People from Balhae also wore fish-skin skirts and sea leopard leather top to keep warm.<ref name=":4" />

=== Goryeo dynasty ===
The Chinese style imported in the Northern-South period, however, did not affect {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} still used by the commoners,{{Citation needed|date=January 2022|reason=Need a clear source}} In the following Goryeo period, use of the Chinese Tang dynasty style of wearing the skirt over the top started to fade, and the wearing of top over skirt was revived in the aristocrat class.<ref name="Koreana2">{{cite journal|author=Cho, Woo-hyun|title=Characteristics of the Korean Costume and Its Development|url=http://eng.actakoreana.org/clickkorea/text/13-Clothing/13-95aut-charateristics.html|publisher=[[Koreana (magazine)|Koreana]]|volume=9|issue=3}}{{dead link|date=December 2017|bot=InternetArchiveBot|fix-attempted=yes}}</ref><ref name="Hanstyle2">{{cite web|script-title=ko:유행과 우리옷|trans-title=Fashion and Korean clothing|url=http://www.han-style.com/hanbok/history/hanbok_style.jsp|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120302181258/http://www.han-style.com/hanbok/history/hanbok_style.jsp|archive-date=2 March 2012|publisher=Korea the sense|language=ko}}</ref> The way of wearing the top under the chima (Tang-style influenced fashion) did not disappear in Goryeo and continued to coexist with the indigenous style of wearing of the top over skirt throughout the entire Goryeo dynasty; this Tang-style influenced fashion continued to be worn until the early Joseon dynasty and only disappeared in the middle and late Joseon periods.<ref>{{Cite journal|last=김 |first=남정|date=2000|title=조선시대 치마에 관한 연구|url=https://dspace.ewha.ac.kr/handle/2015.oak/184592}}</ref>

In [[Goryeo Buddhist paintings]], the clothing and headwear of royalty and nobles typically follows the clothing system of the [[Song dynasty]].<ref name=":72">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1154853080|title=A companion to Korean art|date=2020|others=J. P. Park, Burglind Jungmann, Juhyung Rhi|isbn=978-1-118-92702-1|location=Hoboken, NJ|pages=192|oclc=1154853080}}</ref> The Goryeo painting "Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara", for example, is a Buddhist painting which was derived from both Chinese and Central Asian pictorial references.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/38831761|title=Arts of Korea|date=1998|publisher=Metropolitan Museum of Art|others=Yang-mo Chŏng, Judith G. Smith, Metropolitan Museum of Art|isbn=0-87099-850-1|location=New York|pages=436|oclc=38831761}}</ref> On the other hand, the Chinese clothing worn in [[Yuan dynasty]] rarely appeared in paintings of Goryeo.<ref name=":72" /> The Song dynasty system was later exclusively used by Goryeo Kings and Goryeo government officials after the period when [[Goryeo under Mongol rule|Goryeo was under Mongol rule]] (1270 –1356).<ref name=":18">{{Cite journal|last1=Chae|first1=Keum Seok|last2=Kim|first2=Eun Kyoung|date=2016|title=The Study on Costume Shapes through Goryeo Dynasty Paintings -Comparison with Song and Yuan Style-|url=https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO201608967046815.page|journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles|volume=40|issue=6|pages=1116–1133|doi=10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.6.1116|issn=1225-1151}}</ref> However, even in the Buddhist painting of the late Goryeo, such as the ''Royal Palace Mandala'', the courting ladies are depicted in Tang and Song dynasty-style court dress clothing, which is a different style from the Mongol Yuan court.<ref name=":18" />

<gallery>
File:Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara (detailed view of patrons).jpg|Details of the ''Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara'' painting shows a group of nobles (possibly the donors) dress in court clothing, Goryeo painting.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/38831761|title=Arts of Korea|date=1998|publisher=Metropolitan Museum of Art|others=Yang-mo Chŏng, Judith G. Smith, Metropolitan Museum of Art|isbn=0-87099-850-1|location=New York|pages=435–436|oclc=38831761}}</ref>
File:Goryeohanbok.jpg|alt=A noblewoman's attire in Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara,It were chima jeogori,it was a Goryeo dynasty painting, 1323 AD.|Chima-jeogori, a noblewoman's attire in ''Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara'', Goryeo dynasty painting, 1323 AD.<ref name=":18" />
File:王宮曼荼羅図.jpg|Court ladies wearing the Tang and Song dynasty style clothing, from the painting ''Royal Palace Mandala'', late Goryeo
File:Goryeo lady joban.jpg|Portrait of Lady Jo ban (1341-1401 AD), Goryeo dynasty.
File:Korea-National.Treasure-110-Yi.Jehyung-portrait-NMK.jpg|Portrait of Yi Je-hyeon (1287–1367 AD) of the Goryeo dynasty, wearing [[Shenyi|simui]].
</gallery>

''{{transliteration|ko|Hanbok}}'' went through significant changes under Mongol rule. After the [[Goryeo]] dynasty signed a peace treaty with the [[Mongol Empire]] in the 13th century, Mongolian princesses who married into the Korean royal house brought with them Mongolian fashion which began to prevail in both formal and private life.<ref name=":22"/><ref name="Lee, Kyung-Ja, 20035" /><ref name="koreanculture.org">{{cite web|url=http://www.koreanculture.org/06about_korea/symbols/01hanbok.htm |title=Hanbok |publisher=Korean Overseas Information Service}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://uriculture.com/s_menu.html?menu_mcat=100540&menu_cat=100001&img_num=sub1|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110717173525/http://uriculture.com/s_menu.html?menu_mcat=100540&menu_cat=100001&img_num=sub1|url-status=dead|archive-date=17 July 2011|title=UriCulture.com|access-date=8 October 2014}}</ref> A total of seven women from the Yuan imperial family were married to the kings of Goryeo.<ref name=":0" /> The [[Yuan dynasty]] princess followed the Mongol lifestyle who was instructed to not abandon the Yuan traditions in regards to clothing and precedents.<ref name=":22"/> As a consequence, the clothing of Yuan was worn in the Goryeo court and impacted the clothing worn by the upper-class families who visited the Goryeo court.<ref name=":22"/> The Yuan clothing culture which influenced the upper classes and in some extent the general public is called ''Mongolpung''.<ref name=":0" /> King Chungryeol, who was political hostage to the [[Yuan dynasty]] and pro-Yuan, married the princess of Yuan announcing a royal edict to change into Mongol clothing.<ref name=":22"/> After the fall of the [[Yuan dynasty]], only Mongol clothing which were beneficial and suitable to Goryeo culture were maintained while the others disappeared.<ref name=":22"/> As a result of the Mongol influence, the ''chima'' skirt was shortened, and {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} was hiked up above the waist and tied at the chest with a long, wide ribbon, the {{Transliteration|ko|goreum}}''g'' (an extending ribbon tied on the right side) instead of the ''twii'' (i.e. the early sash-like belt) and the sleeves were curved slightly.{{Citation needed|date=May 2021}}

The cultural exchange was also bilateral and Goryeo had cultural influence on the [[Mongols]] court of the [[Yuan dynasty]] (1279–1368); one example is the influence of Goryeo women's {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} on the attire of aristocrats, queens, and concubines of the Mongol court which occurred in the capital city, [[Khanbaliq]].<ref>Kim, Ki Sun, 2005. v. 5, 81-97.</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://news.naver.com/main/read.nhn?mode=LSD&mid=sec&sid1=001&oid=028&aid=0000100944&|title=News.Naver.com|access-date=8 October 2014}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www1.chinaculture.org/library/2008-01/28/content_28414.htm|title=ChinaCulture.org|access-date=8 October 2014|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141124213026/http://www.chinaculture.org/library/2008-01/28/content_28414.htm|archive-date=24 November 2014}}</ref> However, this influence on the Mongol court clothing mainly occurred in the last years of the Yuan dynasty.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Yang|first=Shaorong|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=nx5JDiacrH4C&q=korea&pg=PA16|title=Traditional Chinese Clothing: Costumes, Adornments & Culture|date=2004|publisher=Long River Press|isbn=978-1-59265-019-4|page=6}}</ref><ref name=":0">{{Cite journal|last1=Kim|first1=Jinyoung|last2=Lee|first2=Jaeyeong|last3=Lee|first3=Jongoh|date=2015|title="GORYEOYANG" AND "MONGOLPUNG" in the 13th-14th CENTURIES|url=https://www.jstor.org/stable/43957480|journal=Acta Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae|volume=68|issue=3|pages=281–292|doi=10.1556/062.2015.68.3.3|jstor=43957480|issn=0001-6446}}</ref> Throughout the Yuan dynasty, many people from Goryeo were forced to move into the Yuan; most of them were ''kongnyo'' (literally translated as "tribute women"), eunuchs, and war prisoners.<ref name=":0" /><ref>{{Cite journal|last=Soh|first=Chung-Hee|date=2004|title=Women's Sexual Labor and State in Korean History|url=http://muse.jhu.edu/content/crossref/journals/journal_of_womens_history/v015/15.4soh.html|journal=Journal of Women's History|volume=15|issue=4|pages=170–177|doi=10.1353/jowh.2004.0022|s2cid=144785547|issn=1527-2036}}</ref> About 2000 women from Goryeo were sent to Yuan as ''kongnyo'' against their will.<ref name=":0" /> Although women from Goryeo were considered very beautiful and good servants, most of them lived in unfortunate situations, marked by hard labour and sexual abuse.<ref name=":0" /> However, this fate was not reserved to all of them; and one Goryeo woman became the last Empress of the Yuan dynasty; this was [[Empress Gi]] who was elevated as empress in 1365.<ref name=":0" /> Most of the cultural influence that Goryeo exerted on the upper class of the Yuan dynasty occurred when Empress Gi came into power as empress and started to recruit many Goryeo women as court maids.<ref name=":0" /> The influence of Goryeo on the Mongol court's clothing during the Yuan dynasty was dubbed as ''Goryeoyang'' ("the Goryeo style") and was rhapsodized by the Late Yuan dynasty poet, Zhang Xu, in the form of a short [[banbi]] (半臂) with square collar (方領).<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":102">{{Cite journal|last=Choi|first=Hai-Yaul|date=2007|title=A Study on the Design of Historical Costume for Making Movie & Multimedia -Focused on Rich Women's Costume of Goryeo-Yang and Mongol-Pung in the 13th to 14th Century-|url=http://koreascience.kr/article/JAKO200708508472010.page|journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Costume|volume=57|issue=1|pages=176–186|issn=1229-6880}}</ref> However, so far, the modern interpretation on the appearance of Mongol royal women's clothing influenced by Goryeo is based on authors' suggestions.<ref name=":102"/> According to Hyunhee Park: "Like the Mongolian style, it is possible that this Koryŏ style [''Koryŏ yang''] continued to influence some Chinese in the Ming period after the Ming dynasty replaced the Yuan dynasty, a topic to investigate further."<ref>{{Cite book|last=Park|first=Hyunhee|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1198087560|title=Soju : a global history|date=2021|isbn=978-1-108-89577-4|location=Cambridge|pages=124–125|oclc=1198087560}}</ref>

=== Joseon dynasty ===
{{More citations needed section|date=September 2019}}
Neo-Confucianism as the ruling ideology in Joseon was established by the early [[Joseon|Joseon dynasty]] kings; this led to the dictation of clothing style worn by all social classes in Joseon (including the dress of the royals, the court members, the aristocrats and commoners) in all types of occasions, which included wedding and funerals.<ref name=":19">{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/882879939 |title=Guide to Korean culture. |date=2013 |others=Haeoe Hongbowŏn |isbn=978-89-7375-571-4 |location=Seoul, Republic of Korea |pages=92 |oclc=882879939}}</ref> Social values such as the integrity in men and chastity in women were also reflected in how people would dress.<ref name=":19" /> After the [[Japanese invasions of Korea (1592–98)]] or ''Imjin War'', economic hardship on the peninsula may have influenced the closer-fitting styles that use less fabric.<ref name="Chosun Ilbo2">{{cite news |title=Five Centuries of Shrinking Korean Fashions |newspaper=[[The Chosun Ilbo]] |url=http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2006/05/29/2006052961020.html |access-date=27 June 2009}}</ref>

==== Women's everyday wear ====
[[File:밀양고법리박익벽화묘1.jpg|thumb|Ordinary people's clothing,<ref name=":18" /> Mural tomb of Bak Ik in Gobeop-ri, Miryang. Bak Ik was a civil official who lived from 1332 to 1398 AD, Early Joseon]]
Early Joseon continued the women's fashion for baggy, loose clothing, such as those seen on the mural from the tomb of Bak Ik (1332–1398);<ref>[http://jikimi.cha.go.kr/english/search_plaza_new/ECulresult_Db_View.jsp?VdkVgwKey=13,04590000,38&queryText=(mural%3Cin%3E%20z_title)%3Cand%3E(V_EYEAR%20%3E=1350)&requery=0 Miryang gobeomni bagik byeokhwamyo (Mural tomb of Bak Ik in Gobeop-ri, Miryang)]. [[Cultural Heritage Administration of Korea|Cultural Heritage Administration]]. Accessed 15 July 2009.</ref> the murals from the tomb of Bak Ik are valuable resources in Korean archaeology and art history for study of life and customs in the early Joseon.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Administration |first=Cultural Heritage |title=Mural Tomb of Bak Ik, Miryang - Heritage Search |url=http://english.cha.go.kr/chaen/search/selectGeneralSearchDetail.do;jsessionid=zlMQLnmvrCZ3g9fsza7XSFD2VaW1HbZAfUE3Mxu7kkbLeRDLJK64zg5QpV9bYqor.cha-was01_servlet_engine4?mn=EN_02_02&sCcebKdcd=13&ccebAsno=04590000&sCcebCtcd=38&pageIndex=279&region=&canAsset=&ccebPcd1=&searchWrd=&startNum=&endNum=&stCcebAsdt=&enCcebAsdt=&canceled=&ccebKdcd=&ccebCtcd= |access-date=21 August 2022 |website=[[Cultural Heritage Administration]] |language=en}}</ref> The women of the upper classes, the monarchy and the court wore {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} which was inspired by the [[Ming dynasty]] clothing while simultaneously maintaining a distinctive Korean-style look; in turn, the women of the lower class generally imitated the upper-class women clothing.<ref name=":12">{{Cite book |last=Welters |first=Linda |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1004424828 |title=Fashion history : a global view |date=2018 |others=Abby Lillethun |isbn=978-1-4742-5363-5 |location=London, UK |oclc=1004424828}}</ref> During the Joseon dynasty, the chima or skirt adopted fuller volume, while the {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} or blouse took more tightened and shortened form, features quite distinct from the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} of previous centuries, when ''chima'' was rather slim and {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} baggy and long, reaching well below waist level.

In the 15th century, neo-confucianism was very rooted in the social life in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries which lead to the strict regulation of clothing (including fabric use, colours of fabric, motifs, and ornaments) based on status.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=S8bTzilz1BMC&q=Silla+hanbok&pg=PA222|title=The Greenwood encyclopedia of clothing through world history|date=2008|others=Jill Condra|isbn=978-0-313-33662-1|location=Westport, Connecticut|pages=222–223|oclc=156808055}}</ref> Neo-confucianism also influence women's wearing of full-pleated chima, longer jeogori, and multiple layers clothing in order to never reveal skin.<ref name=":11">{{Cite web |last=Murray |first=Anne Wood (Emeritus Curator of American Costume, Division of Costume, Department of Social and Cultural History, National Museum of American History, Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C.) |title=Dress - Korea |url=https://www.britannica.com/topic/dress-clothing |access-date=10 March 2021 |website=Encyclopædia Britannica |quote="In the 15th century, Korean women began to wear pleated skirts (chima) and longer chŏgori, a style that was undoubtedly introduced from China."}}</ref> In the 15th century, women started wearing of full-pleated chima which completely hide the body lines and longer-length jeogori.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/882879939|title=Guide to Korean culture.|date=2013|others=Haeoe Hongbowŏn|isbn=978-89-7375-571-4|location=Seoul, Republic of Korea|pages=93|oclc=882879939}}</ref><ref name=":11" /><ref>{{Cite book|last=Yang|first=Sunny|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/39614017|title=Hanbok : the art of Korean clothing|date=1997|publisher=Hollym|isbn=1-56591-082-6|location=Elizabeth, N.J.|pages=61|oclc=39614017}}</ref> The 15th century AD ''chima-jeogori'' style was undoubtedly a clothing style introduced from China consisting of longer {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} and pleated chima.<ref name=":11" />
<gallery>
File:영의정하연부부영정4.jpg|15th century lady
File:영의정하연부부영정2.jpg|15th century lady
</gallery>
However, by the 16th century, the {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}} had shortened to the waist and appears to have become closer fitting, although not to the extremes of the bell-shaped silhouette of the 18th and 19th centuries.<ref>Keum, Ki-Suk "The Beauty of Korean Traditional Costume" (Seoul: Yeorhwadang, 1994) {{ISBN|89-301-1039-8}} p.43</ref><ref name="Contemporary Artwork of Women2">{{cite web|title=Contemporary Artwork of Korean Women|url=http://medieval-baltic.us/korot2.html|access-date=27 June 2009}}</ref><ref name="Chosun Ilbo2" /> In the 16th century, women's {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}} was long, wide, and covered the waist.<ref name="저고리2">{{cite web|last1=허윤희|title=조선 여인 저고리 길이 300년간 2/3나 짧아져|url=http://news.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2011/06/27/2011062702249.html|access-date=6 September 2019|website=조선닷컴|language=ko}}</ref> The length of women's {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}} gradually shortened: it was approximately 65&nbsp;cm in the 16th century, 55&nbsp;cm in the 17th century, 45&nbsp;cm in the 18th century, and 28&nbsp;cm in the 19th century, with some as short as 14.5&nbsp;cm.<ref name="저고리2" /> A {{Transliteration|ko|heoritti}} (허리띠) or {{Transliteration|ko|jorinmal}} (졸잇말) was worn to cover the breasts.<ref name="저고리2" /> The trend of wearing a short {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} with a heoritti was started by the [[gisaeng]] and soon spread to women of the upper class.<ref name="저고리2" /> Among women of the common and lowborn classes, a practice emerged in which they [[Toplessness|revealed their breasts]] by removing a cloth to make breastfeeding more convenient.<ref>{{cite journal|last1=Han|first1=Hee-sook|date=2004|title=Women's Life during the Chosŏn Dynasty|url=https://ijkh.khistory.org/journal/view.php?number=342|journal=International Journal of Korean History|volume=6|issue=1|page=142|access-date=6 September 2019}}</ref> As there was an excessive preference for boys in the Joseon dynasty, the deliberate exposure of breast eventually became a cultural practice and an indicator of women's pride and status symbol in having given birth to a son and thus she would "proudly bare her breasts to feed her child, deliberately provoking the envy of other women".<ref name=":21" /> During the 17th and 18th centuries the fullness of the skirt was concentrated around the hips, thus forming a silhouette similar to Western bustles. In the 18th century, the {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} became very short to the point that the waistband of the ''chima'' was visible; this style was first seen on female entertainers at the Joseon court.<ref name=":12" /> The {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} continued to shorten until it reached the modern times {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}}-length; i.e. just covering the breasts.<ref name=":11" /> The fullness of the skirt reached its extreme around 1800. During the 19th century fullness of the skirt was achieved around the knees and ankles thus giving ''chima'' a triangular or an A-shaped silhouette, which is still the preferred style to this day. Many [[Sokgot|undergarments]] such as ''darisokgot,'' ''soksokgot,'' ''dansokgot'', and ''gojengi'' were worn underneath to achieve desired forms.
<gallery>
File:Chimajeogori002.jpg|Women's ''{{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}'' consists of ''chima'' skirt and {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} shirt by Shin Yunbok
File:18thcentury maid.jpg|Full skirt and tight {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} were considered fashionable. 18th century.
File:Yangban.jpg|A rare painting of ''[[yangban]]'' women. ''Yangban'' ladies were sensitive to "fashion fads" which worried [[Seonbi]] scholars. 18th century.
File:18thcentury innerwear.jpg|''Soksokgot'', similar to a [[petticoat]], is shown under the woman's skirt. 18th century.
File:Hyewon-Ssanggeum.daemu.jpg|Dancing together with two swords
</gallery>

At the end of the 19th century, as mentioned above, Heungseon Daewongun introduced ''[[magoja]]'', a Manchu-style jacket, which is often worn over {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} to this day.

A clothes reformation movement aimed at lengthening ''{{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}}'' experienced wide success in the early 20th century and has continued to influence the shaping of modern {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}. Modern ''{{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}}'' are longer, although still halfway between the waistline and the breasts. ''Heoritti'' are sometimes exposed for aesthetic reasons.

==== Men's everyday wear ====
[[File:Interior_1,_Unhyeongung_-_Seoul,_Korea.JPG|thumb|Male aristocrat dress: a ''[[Gat (hat)|gat]]'' (a [[horsehair]] hat) on the head and yellow ''[[Dopo (clothing)|dopo]]'' (overcoat)]]Men's {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} saw little change compared to women's {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}. The form and design of {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} and {{transliteration|ko|baji}} hardly changed.

In contrast, men's lengthy outwear, the equivalent of the modern overcoat, underwent a dramatic change. Before the late 19th century, ''yangban'' men almost always wore ''jungchimak'' when traveling. ''Jungchimak'' had very lengthy sleeves, and its lower part had splits on both sides and occasionally on the back so as to create a fluttering effect in motion. To some this was fashionable, but to others, namely stoic scholars, it was nothing but pure vanity. Daewon-gun successfully banned ''jungchimak'' as a part of his clothes reformation program and ''jungchimak'' eventually disappeared.

''[[Durumagi]]'', which was previously worn underneath ''jungchimak'' and was basically a house dress, replaced ''jungchimak'' as the formal outwear for ''yangban'' men. ''Durumagi'' differs from its predecessor in that it has tighter sleeves and does not have splits on either sides or back. It is also slightly shorter in length. Men's {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} has remained relatively the same since the adoption of ''durumagi''. In 1884, the Gapsin Dress Reform took place.<ref name=":13">{{Cite book|last1=Pyun|first1=Kyunghee|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ivZ0DwAAQBAJ&q=myeonbok&pg=PA55|title=Fashion, identity, and power in modern Asia|last2=Wong|first2=Aida Yuen|date=2018|publisher=Springer|isbn=978-3-319-97199-5|location=Cham, Switzerland|oclc=1059514121}}</ref> Under the 1884's decree of [[Gojong of Korea|King Gojong]], only narrow-sleeves traditional overcoat were permitted; as such, all Koreans, regardless of their social class, their age and their gender started to wear the [[durumagi]] or ''chaksuui'' or ''ju-ui'' (周衣).<ref name=":13" />

Hats was an essential part formal dress and the development of official hats became even more pronounced during this era due to the emphasis of Confucian values.<ref name=":6">{{Cite book|last=Ch'oe|first=Ŭn-su|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/846696816|title=Gat : traditional headgear in Korea|date=2012|others=Hyŏng-bak Pak, Eunhee Hwang, Kungnip Munhwajae Yŏn'guso|isbn=978-89-6325-987-1|location=Daejeon, Korea|oclc=846696816}}</ref> The [[Gat (hat)|gat]] was considered an essential aspect in a man's life; however, to replace the gat in more informal setting, such as their residences, and to feel more comfortable, Joseon-era aristocrats also adopted a lot hats which were introduced from China, such as the banggwan, sabanggwan, dongpagwan, waryonggwan, jeongjagwan.<ref name=":6" /> The popularity of those Chinese hats may have partially been due to the promulgation of Confucianism and because they were used by literary figures and scholars in China.<ref name=":6" /> In 1895, King Gojong decreed adult Korean men to cut their hair short and western-style clothing were allowed and adopted.<ref name=":13" />
<gallery>
Image:18thcentur man.jpg|A man wearing ''jungchimak''. 18th century.
Image:Malehanbok002.JPG|The "fluttering" effect. 18th century.
Image:Joseon-Portrait of Heungseon Daewongun-01.jpg|''Waryonggwan'' and ''hakchangui'' in 1863
Image:Koreans oldest pic 3.jpg|Photograph taken in 1863
Image:Koreans oldest pic group.jpg|Photograph taken in 1863
Image:Joseon-Portrait of Heungseon Daewongun-02.jpg|''Bokgeon'' and ''simui'' in 1880
Image:Joseon-Portrait of Heungseon Daewongun-03.jpg|Black ''bokgeon'' and blue ''dopo'' in 1880
Image:Korea-Min Sangho-1898-Hubert Vos.jpg|''[[Jeongjagwan]]'' on the head
File:A_Corean_in_mourning_clothes.jpg|A Korean in mourning clothes
File:COREANS.jpg|Korean men, 1871
File:Corean_man._Middle_class.jpg|Young Korean man of the [[Chungin|middle class]], 1904
File:Korea-History-1910-1920-Korean.mother.child-Carpenter.Collection.jpg|Korean mother and daughter, 1910–1920
</gallery>

==== Material and color ====
[[File:Joseon-Portrait_of_Cha_Jegong-Black_danryeongpo.jpg|thumb|225x225px|''Heuk dallyeongpo'' in the late 18th century]]
The upper classes wore {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} of closely woven [[ramie]] cloth or other high-grade lightweight materials in warm weather and of plain and patterned silks the rest of the year. Commoners were restricted by law as well as resources to cotton at best.

The upper classes wore a variety of colors, though bright colors were generally worn by children and girls and subdued colors by middle-aged men and women. Commoners were restricted by law to everyday clothes of white, but for special occasions they wore dull shades of pale pink, light green, gray, and charcoal. The color of ''chima'' showed the wearer's social position and statement. For example, a navy color indicated that a woman had son(s). Only the royal family could wear clothing with ''[[geumbak]]''-printed patterns (gold leaf) on the bottom of the chima.

==== Headdresses ====
[[File:Miindo-Yun.family.of.Haenam-d1.jpg|left|thumb|140x140px|A woman wearing a wig, or ''[[gache]]'']]
Both male and female wore their hair in a long [[braid]] until they were married, at which time the hair was knotted; man's hair was knotted in a topknot called ''sangtu'' (상투) on the top of the head, and the woman's hair was rolled into a ball shaped form or ''komeori'' and was set just above the nape of the neck.

A long pin, or ''[[binyeo]]'' (비녀), was worn in women's knotted hair as both a fastener and a decoration. The material and length of the ''binyeo'' varied according to the wearer's class and status. And also wore a ribbon or ''[[daenggi]]'' (댕기) to tie and to decorate braided hair. Women wore a ''[[jokduri]]'' on their wedding day and wore an ''[[Ayam (cap)|ayam]]'' for protection from the cold. Men wore a [[Gat (hat)|gat]], which varied according to class and status.

Before the 19th century, women of high social backgrounds and ''[[gisaeng]]'' wore wigs (''[[gache]]''). Like their Western counterparts, Koreans considered bigger and heavier wigs to be more desirable and aesthetic. Such was the women's frenzy for the ''gache'' that in 1788 [[Jeongjo of Joseon|King Jeongjo]] banned by royal decree the use of ''gache'', as they were deemed contrary to the [[Korean Confucianism|Korean Confucian]] values of reserve and restraint.<ref>{{Cite web|title=The Traditional Art of Beauty and Perfume in Ancient Korea {Cultural Notes} {Beauty Notes} - The Scented Salamander: Perfume & Beauty Blog & Webzine|url=http://www.mimifroufrou.com/scentedsalamander/2008/04/beauty_perfume_in_traditional.html|website=www.mimifroufrou.com}}</ref>

Owing to the influence of Neo-Confucianism, it was compulsory for women throughout the entire society to wear headdresses (''nae-oe-seugae'') to avoid exposing their faces when going outside; those headdresses may include ''suegaechima'' (a headdress which looked like a ''chima'' but was narrower and shorter in style worn by the upper-class women and later by all classes of people in late Joseon), the [[jang-ot]], and the ''neoul'' (which was only permitted for court ladies and noblewomen).<ref>{{Cite journal|last=Cho|first=Seunghye|date=3 September 2017|title=The Ideology of Korean Women's Headdresses during the Chosŏn Dynasty|url=https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2016.1251089|journal=Fashion Theory|volume=21|issue=5|pages=553–571|doi=10.1080/1362704X.2016.1251089|s2cid=165117375|issn=1362-704X}}</ref>

In the 19th century ''yangban'' women began to wear ''jokduri'', a small hat that replaced ''gache''. However ''gache'' enjoyed vast popularity in ''kisaeng'' circles well into the end of the century.

=== Later development ===
Today's {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} is the direct descendant of {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} patterned after those worn by the aristocratic women or by the people who were at least from the middle-class in the [[Joseon]] period,<ref name=":9" /><ref>{{Cite book|last=Korean Culture and Information Service Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/680802927|title=Passport to Korean culture.|date=2009|publisher=[[Korean Culture and Information Service]]|others=Haeoe Hongbowŏn|isbn=978-89-7375-153-2|edition=2009|location=Seoul, Korea|pages=104|oclc=680802927}}</ref> specifically the late 19th century. ''{{transliteration|ko|Hanbok}}'' had gone through various changes and fashion fads during the five hundred years under the reigns of Joseon kings and eventually evolved to what we now mostly consider typical {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}.

Beginning in the late 19th century, {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} was largely replaced by new Western imports like the Western [[Suit (clothing)|suit]] and dress. Today, formal and casual wear are usually based on Western styles. However, {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} is still worn for traditional occasions, and is reserved for celebrations like weddings, the Lunar New Year, annual ancestral rites, or the birth of a child.

== Modern usage ==
{{Transliteration|ko|Hanbok}} has been featured in international [[haute couture]]; on the catwalk, in 2015 when [[Karl Lagerfeld|Karl Lagerfield]] dressed Korean models for [[Chanel]], and during [[Paris Fashion Week]] in photography by [[Phil Oh]].<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/hanbok-street-style-seoul-korean-traditional-dress|title=The Story Behind Seoul's Latest Street Style Staple|work=Vogue|access-date=17 October 2018}}</ref> It has also been worn by international celebrities, such as [[Britney Spears]] and [[Jessica Alba]], and athletes, such as tennis player [[Venus Williams]] and football player [[Hines Ward]].<ref>{{Cite news|url=http://www.sweetandtastytv.com/blog/2013/07/25/8-american-celebrities-wearing-hanbok|title=8 American Celebrities Wearing Hanbok|work=SweetandtastyTV|access-date=17 October 2018}}</ref>

''{{transliteration|ko|Hanbok}}'' is also popular among Asian-American celebrities, such as [[Lisa Ling]] and [[Miss Asia Pageant|Miss Asia]] 2014, [[Eriko Lee Katayama]].<ref name=":3">{{Cite web |title=KIM MeHee hanbok couture |url=http://www.kimmehee.com/ |website=KIM MeHee hanbok couture}}</ref> It has also made appearances on the red carpet, and was worn by [[Sandra Oh]] at the [[Screen Actors Guild Award|SAG Awards]], and by Sandra Oh's mother who made fashion history in 2018 for wearing a {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} to the [[Emmy Award]]s.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.yahoo.com/news/sandra-ohs-mother-makes-history-wearing-traditional-hanbok-red-carpet-082913406.html|title=Sandra Oh's mother makes Emmys history by wearing traditional Korean hanbok to awards|access-date=17 October 2018}}</ref>

=== South Korea ===
The South Korean government has supported the resurgence of interest in {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} by sponsoring fashion designers.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://mengnews.joins.com/view.aspx?aId=3042015|title=Designers add a modern twist to hanbok style : Government is keen to show the world the versatility of Korea's traditional attire|website=[[Korea JoongAng Daily]]|language=ko|access-date=17 October 2018}}</ref> Domestically, {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} has become trendy in street fashion and music videos. It has been worn by the prominent [[K-pop]] artists like [[Blackpink]] and [[BTS]], notably in their music videos for "[[How You Like That]]" and [[Idol (BTS song)|"Idol."]]<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.sbs.com.au/popasia/blog/2018/08/23/11-times-bts-rocked-traditional-korean-clothing|title=11 times BTS rocked traditional Korean clothing|website=SBS PopAsia|access-date=17 October 2018}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.koreaboo.com/news/everything-need-know-blackpink-traditional-korean-hanbok-outfits-in-howyoulikethat-mv/|title=Here's Everything You Need To Know About BLACKPINK's Korean Hanbok Outfits In "How You Like That" MV|date=26 June 2020}}</ref>

In Seoul, a tourist's wearing of {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} makes their visit to the Five Grand Palaces (Changdeokgung, Changgyeonggung, Deoksugung, Gyeongbokgung and Gyeonghuigung) free of charge.

=== North Korea ===
{{Multi image
| image1            = Two housewives celebrated the 69th founding anniversary of the DPRK.jpg
| image2            = North Korea 039 (6160325571).jpg
| caption2          = Newlywed bride in hanbok, North Korea
| image3            = At Kumsusan Palace of the Sun (13610012573).jpg
| caption3          = Women wearing uniform joseon-ot, North Korea
| total_width       = 350
| caption1          = Women in joseon-ot, North Korea, 2017
| perrow            = 2
| header            = Joseon-ot in North Korea
| image4            = Girls in Pyongyang.jpg
| caption4          = Little girls wearing chima-jeogori, North Korea, Pyeongyang
}}
{{Transliteration|ko|Hanbok}} is also worn in present-day [[North Korea]] where it is known as {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} ({{Korean|hangul=조선옷|hanja=朝鮮옷|rr=Joseon-ot|labels=no}}).<ref name=":242">{{Cite web |title=Hanbok in N. Korea |url=http://world.kbs.co.kr/special/northkorea/contents/news/closeup_view.htm?No=378367 |access-date=21 August 2022 |website=world.kbs.co.kr |language=en}}</ref> The {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} thus highlights the identity of the Korean ethnic and has been more actively promoted under the rule of [[Kim Jong Un]].<ref name=":242" /> The {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} is currently typically worn during special occasions, e.g. weddings,<ref name=":28">{{Cite book |title=Mysterious Pyongyang: Cosmetics, Beauty Culture and North Korea |publisher=Springer Singapore |others=Nam Sung-wook, Chae Su-lan, Lee Ga-young (editors) |year=2020 |isbn=9789811577031 |language=en}}</ref>{{Rp|page=49}} and when North Koreans celebrate the 60th, 70th, and 80th birthdays of their parents.<ref name=":242" /> It is also mandated that women wear {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} when attending National events, such as [[Kim Jong Il]]'s birthday (16 February), [[International Women's Day|International women's day]] (8 March), [[Day of the Sun|Kim Il Sung's birthday]] (15 April), Foundation Day (9 September).<ref name=":28" />{{Rp|page=78}} White colored {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} is often used as the color white has been the traditionally favored by the Korean people as the symbolism of pure spirit.<ref name=":242" />

The {{Transliteration|ko|chima-jeogori}} remains the clothing of women, including female university students who are required to wear it as part of their university school uniforms.<ref name=":242" /> The uniform of female university students has been a black-and-white {{Transliteration|ko|chima-jeogori}} since the early to mid 2000s.<ref name=":242" /> The {{Transliteration|ko|chima}} can often be found at a length of about 30&nbsp;cm from the ground for practical purposes in order to facilitate movements and to ensure that women could wear it during their daily workday with ease and comfort; this decrease in skirt length also gives a sense of modern style.<ref name=":28" />{{Rp|page=75}}

The {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} patterns also have special meanings which are given by the North Koreans.<ref name=":242" /> Generally, young people in North Korea like floral prints and bright colours, while the older generations favour simple styles of clothing and solid colours.<ref name=":27" />{{Rp|page=376}} The {{Transliteration|ko|chima-jeogori}} in North Korea is sometimes characterized by its use of floral patterns which are often added to the sleeves of the {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}} and to the {{Transliteration|ko|chima}}.<ref name=":242" /> [[Azalea]]s, in particular, are favoured in [[Nyongbyon County|Yongbyon]] due to their association with the emotional poem ''Azaleas'' (《{{Korean|hangul=진달래꽃|labels=no}}》) by [[Kim Sowol|Kim So-wol]].<ref name=":242" /> Men occasionally wear {{Transliteration|ko|joseon-ot}}.<ref name=":242" />

However, {{Transliteration|ko|joseon-ot}} are typically more expensive than ordinary clothing, and renting is available for people who cannot afford to purchase one; some are available for purchase at US$20 while the {{Transliteration|ko|joseon-ot}} made in [[China]] with South Korean designs and fabrics are more expensive and can cost approximately US$3000.<ref name=":242" /> The mid-2010s also saw the increased popularity of children dressing in {{Transliteration|ko|joseon-ot}} by their parents.<ref name=":242" />

==== History ====
The 1950s and 1960s also saw women from the upper-class wear {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} made out of [[rayon]] while a black-and-white {{Transliteration|ko|chima-jeogori}} consisting of a black long-length {{Transliteration|ko|chima}} and white {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}} were used in the 1950s and 1960s where it was generally worn by women;<ref name=":02">{{Cite web |title=Changes in the Clothing Culture of North Korea under the Kim Jong Un Regime |url=https://globalnk.org/note/view?cd=NOT000012 |access-date=23 August 2022 |website=Global North Korea |language=ko}}</ref> this style can, however, be traced to a typical clothing style used in the [[Joseon|Joseon dynasty]] period.<ref name=":242" /> This combination is still representative of the ideal woman and remains the official outfit for women in North Korea to this day.<ref name=":28" />{{Rp|page=77}} In the 1980s, the {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} became the official attire of women when attending ceremonies while western-style clothing became the everyday, ordinary clothing.<ref name=":02" />

After the mid-1990s due to extreme economic contractions, women could purchase their {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} in private markers and were allowed to choose their desired colours and designs.<ref name=":242" />

In 2001, [[Lee Young-hee (designer)|Lee Young-Hee]], a South Korean {{Transliteration|ko|hanbok}} designer visited [[Pyongyang|Pyeongyang]] to hold a fashion show at the Pyeongyang Youth Center on 4 and 6 June;<ref name=":27">{{Cite book |last=Yonhap News Agency, Seoul |title=North Korea Handbook |date=27 December 2002 |publisher=M. E. Sharpe Incorporated |isbn=9780765635235 |editor-last=Yonhap News Agency}}</ref>{{Rp|page=262}} and since the 2002, North Korea have held their own [[fashion show]] in [[Pyongyang|Pyeongyang]] every spring.<ref name=":02" /> Since 2001, there have been an increase of shops specialized in the customization of {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} in Pyeongyang which was reported by the KBCS.<ref name=":27" />{{Rp|page=261}}This increase was due to a project implemented by the public service bureau of the Pyeongyang People's Committee to increase {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} tailoring shops.<ref name=":27" />{{Rp|page=262}} These shops are typically found in large cities, such as Pyeongyang and Gaesong but are rarely found in small cities and villages.<ref name=":27" />{{Rp|page=262}}

=== Modern usage by Korean diaspora ===

==== China ====
[[File:연변문예 표지 이미지.jpg|thumb|344x344px|Illustration of vintage {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} on a Yanbian magazine cover, China, 1975~1983.]]
In [[China]], the {{Transliteration|ko|hanbok}} is referred as {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} ({{Lang-zh|c=朝鮮服}}; {{Korean|hangul=조선옷|hanja=朝鮮옷|rr=Joseon-ot|labels=no}}) and is recognized as being the traditional ethnic clothing of {{Transliteration|zh|[[Koreans in China|chaoxianzu]]}} ({{Lang-zh|s=朝鲜族|t=朝鮮族|p=cháoxiǎnzú|l=[[Joseon]] (Korean) ethnic group}}) in China. The {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} is an official term and is recognized as one of the official 55 [[Ethnic minorities in China|ethnic minority in China]];<ref name=":25">{{Cite thesis |title=Chaoxianzu's Traditions of Dress: An Exploration of Identity Within Contemporary Fashion Contexts |url=https://openrepository.aut.ac.nz/handle/10292/13127 |publisher=Auckland University of Technology |date=2020 |degree=Thesis |language=en |first=Wenlian |last=Jin}}</ref> people from {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} ethnic are not recent immigrants in China but have a long history having lived in China for generations.<ref name=":5"/>{{Rp|page=240}} They share the same ethnic identity as the Korean ethnic in both Northern and Southern Korea but are counted as Chinese citizens by nationality under the [[Constitution]] of China. Their traditions are not entirely the same due to their unique historical experiences, geographical location and mixed identities.<ref name=":25" /> The term {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} literally correspond to {{Transliteration|zh|Chosonjok}} ({{Korean|hangul=조선족|hanja=朝鮮族|rr=Chosŏnjok|labels=no}}), a non-official deragotory term in South Korea, to refer to {{Transliteration|ko|Hangukgye Junggugin}} ({{Literally|Korean-Chinese}}), which is the actual legal term in South Korea.<ref name=":26">{{Cite web |last=Ahn |first=Yeong-chun |title=[Column] The hanbok belongs to the Korean diaspora, too |url=https://english.hani.co.kr/arti/english_edition/english_editorials/1030269.html |access-date=21 August 2022 |website=[[The Hankyoreh]]}}</ref> In the [[Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture]], where most {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} reside,<ref name=":25" /> the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} was mostly worn on special occasions in the past;<ref name=":5"/> however, by 2019, they had regained popularity and have become fashionable.<ref name=":25" />

Since the [[Chinese economic reform]] of China, there have been more exchanges with both Koreas leading to both the development and changes in chaoxianzu-style {{transliteration|ko|Chosŏn-ot}} in China;<ref name=":25" /> some of designs of the chaoxianzu-style {{transliteration|ko|Chosŏn-ot}} have been influenced and inspired by both South Korean and North Korean {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} designs.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=246|pages=}}

The {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} originally preferred to wear white colours as it represented cleanliness, simplicity, and purity; however, since the 20th century, the colours started to become brigher and more vivid and diverse as woven fabrics, such as polyester and nylon sateen, started to be introduced.<ref name=":25" /> The "reform and opening up" of China also allowed for more exchanges with both Koreas, which lead to the both development and changes in the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} of China.<ref name=":25" /> Following the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} tradition, the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} has an A-line in silhouette to give it the appearance of a [[mountain]] as per the tradition, women are the host of the family, and thus, women holding the household need to be stable; the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} also covers the entire body.<ref name=":25" /> The {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} have developed their own style of {{Transliteration|ko|hanbok}}<ref name=":24">{{Cite journal |last=Lin |first=Huishun |date=2020 |title=A study on the Alteration of traditional costume of Korean Chinese (I) - Focused on the daily wear |script-title=ko:중국 조선족 전통복식의 변화연구 (I) - 일상복을 중심으로 - |url=https://www.dbpia.co.kr/journal/articleDetail?nodeId=NODE10514397 |journal=한국의상디자인학회지 |language=ko |volume=22 |issue=4 |pages=63–78}}</ref> due to the isolation for about 50 years from both the North and South Koreas.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=|pages=240, 246}} As a result, the styles of {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} in South Korea, North Korea, and China, worn by the Korean ethnics from these three countries have developed separately from each other. For example, ''Yemi Hanbok'' by Songok Ryu, an ethnic {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} from the [[Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture]], is unique in both style and business model as it can operate in both South Korea and North Korea.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=|pages=240, 246}} In terms of {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} design, ''Yemi Hanbok'' designs are based on Chinese-style designs.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=246|pages=}} Over the years, the women's {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} also changed in length for the {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}}, {{Transliteration|ko|git}}, and {{Transliteration|ko|goreum}} and changed in width for the {{Transliteration|ko|git}}, {{Transliteration|ko|dong-jeong}}, sleeves, and {{Transliteration|ko|goreum}}. The {{Transliteration|ko|git}} and {{Transliteration|ko|barae}} have evolved from straight to curve patterns. The wrinkle arrangement, length, and silhouette of the {{Transliteration|ko|chima}} have also evolved; some of the skirts were sometimes decorated with [[Goldwork (embroidery)|gold embroidery]] or gold leaf at the bottom hem.<ref name=":24" /> The colours used were also very varied; for example, feminine colours such as pink, yellow, and deep red could be used.<ref name=":24" /> The 1990s saw the use of gold leaf, floral prints, embroidery on the women's {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}}; the use of gradient colours also emerged.<ref name=":24" /> For men, their {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}}, {{Transliteration|ko|baji}}, and sleeves were made longer; their {{Transliteration|ko|baji}} also became wider. The {{Transliteration|ko|[[durumagi]]}} continues to be worn, and the {{Transliteration|ko|baeja}} and {{Transliteration|ko|magoja}} are worn frequently in present-days.<ref name=":24" />

On 7 June 2008, the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} were approved by the State Council of China to be included in the second layer of national intangible cultural heritage.<ref name=":25" /> And, in 2011, the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} was official designated as being part of the [[intangible cultural heritage]] of China by the Chinese government; while the announcement was welcomed by the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} ethnic in China as a proud indicator of their equal membership in a multi-ethnic and multicultuary country such as China, it received negative criticism in South Koreans who perceived it as a "scandalous appropriation of the distinctive national culture of Koreans".<ref>{{Cite book |last=Kim |first=Jaeeun |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/951625687 |title=Contested embrace : transborder membership politics in twentieth-century Korea |date=2016 |isbn=978-0-8047-9961-4 |location=Stanford, California |oclc=951625687}}</ref>{{Rp|page=239}} In 2022, a girl from the {{Transliteration|zh|[[Koreans in China|chaoxianzu]]}} ethnic wore a {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} on the [[2022 Winter Olympics|2022 Beijing Winter Olympics]] opening ceremony leading to an uproar from South Koreans who accused China of [[cultural appropriation]].<ref name=":26" />

== Social status ==
Especially from the [[Goryeo]] dynasty, the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} started to determine differences in social status (from people with the highest social status (kings), to those of the lowest social status (slaves)<ref name="Clothing, Traditional - Korea">{{Cite web|title=Gale - Product Login|url=https://galeapps.gale.com/apps/auth?userGroupName=unc_main&origURL=https%253A%252F%252Fgo.gale.com%252Fps%252Fi.do%253Fid%253DGALE%25257CCX3403700685%2526v%253D2.1%2526u%253Dunc_main%2526it%253Dr%2526p%253DGVRL%2526sw%253Dw&prodId=GVRL|access-date=10 April 2023|website=galeapps.gale.com}}</ref>) and gender through the many types, components,<ref name="Clothing, Traditional - Korea" /> colours,<ref name=":2">{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/853455231 |title=Color and design |date=2012 |publisher=Berg Publishers |others=Marilyn Revell DeLong, Barbara Martinson |isbn=978-1-84788-953-9 |location=London |oclc=853455231}}</ref>{{Rp|page=132}} and characteristics.<ref name="Characteristics of the Korean Costume and Its Development">Cho, Woo-hyun, [http://koreana.kf.or.kr/view.asp?article_id=500&lang=English "Characteristics of the Korean Costume and Its Development"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131231000234/http://koreana.kf.or.kr/view.asp?article_id=500&lang=English |date=31 December 2013 }}, "Koreana", 1995</ref> Although the modern {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} does not express a person's status or social position, {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} was an important element of distinguishment especially in the [[Goryeo]] and [[Joseon]] dynasties.<ref name="Characteristics of the Korean Costume and Its Development" /> For example, farmers and commoners were not allowed to wear colour garments in their daily lives, excluding some categories of people, such as the shamans, [[Kisaeng|gisaeng]], and children, who were allowed to wear colourful clothing despite their social status.<ref name=":2" />{{Rp|page=132}} Occasions when all people were allowed to wear colourful clothing were for special ceremonial occasions (e.g. wedding, birthday, holidays).<ref name=":2" />{{Rp|page=132}}

=== Clothes ===

==== Hwarot ====
{{Transliteration|ko|[[Hwarot]]}} or {{Transliteration|ko|hwal-ot}} was the full dress for a princess and the daughter of a king by a [[concubine]], formal dress for the upper class, and bridal wear for ordinary women during the Goryeo and Joseon dynasties.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)">{{Cite web|title=≪C뉴스041≫ 조은아의 한복이야기 (26)|url=http://www.cnews041.com/47529|access-date=10 April 2023|website=C뉴스041}}</ref> Popular embroidered patterns on {{Transliteration|ko|hwarot}} were [[lotus (genus)|lotuses]], [[Phoenix (mythology)|phoenixes]], butterflies, and the ten traditional symbols of longevity: the sun; mountains; water; clouds; rocks/stone; pine trees; the mushroom of immortality; turtles; white [[Crane (bird)|cranes]], and deer.<ref name="Official/Court Clothing">{{Cite web |title=Traditional Korean Clothing |url=http://www.lifeinkorea.com/culture/clothes/clothes.cfm?xURL=official |access-date=10 April 2023 |website=www.lifeinkorea.com}}</ref> Each pattern represented a different role within society, for example: a dragon represented an emperor while a phoenix represented a queen; floral patterns represented a princess and a king's daughter by a concubine, and clouds and cranes represented high ranking court officials.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> All these patterns throughout Korean history had meanings of longevity, good luck, wealth and honor.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> {{Transliteration|ko|Hwarot}} also had blue, red, and yellow colored stripes in each [[sleeve]]; a woman usually wore a scarlet-colored skirt and yellow or green-colored [[Jeogori]], a traditional Korean jacket.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> {{Transliteration|ko|Hwarot}} was worn over the [[Jeogori]] and skirt.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> A woman also wore her hair in a bun, with an ornamental hairpin and a ceremonial [[coronet]].<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> A long ribbon was attached to the ornamental hairpin, the hairpin is known as {{Transliteration|ko|Yongjam}} ({{Korean|hangul=용잠|labels=no}}).<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> In more recent times, people wear {{Transliteration|ko|hwarot}} on their wedding day, and so the Korean tradition survives in the present day.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" />

==== Wonsam ====
''[[Wonsam]]'' was a ceremonial overcoat for a married woman in the Joseon dynasty.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)">{{Cite web|title=≪C뉴스041≫ 조은아의 한복이야기 (25)|url=http://www.cnews041.com/46289|access-date=10 April 2023|website=C뉴스041}}</ref> The [[Wonsam]] was also adopted from [[China]] and is believed to have been one of the costumes from the [[Tang dynasty]] which was bestowed in the Unified Three Kingdoms period.<ref name=":1" /> It was mostly worn by royalty, high-ranking court ladies, and noblewomen and the colors and patterns represented the various elements of the Korean class system.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)" /> The empress wore yellow; the queen wore red; the crown princess wore a purple-red color;<ref name=":2" />{{Rp|page=132}} meanwhile a princess, a king's daughter by a [[concubine]], and a woman of a noble family or lower wore green.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)" /> All the upper social ranks usually had two colored stripes in each sleeve: yellow-colored Wonsam usually had red and blue colored stripes, red-colored Wonsam had blue and yellow stripes, and green-colored Wonsam had red and yellow stripes.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)" /> Lower-class women wore many accompanying colored stripes and ribbons, but all women usually completed their outfit with ''onhye'' or ''danghye'', traditional Korean shoes.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)" />

==== Dangui ====
''[[Dangui]]'' or ''tangwi'' were minor ceremonial robes for the queen, a princess, or wife of a high ranking government official while it was worn during major ceremonies among the noble class in the Joseon dynasty.<ref name="Official/Court Clothing" /> The materials used to make {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} varied depending on the season, so upper-class women wore thick {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} in winter while they wore thinner layers in summer.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(27)">{{Cite web|title=≪C뉴스041≫ 조은아의 한복이야기 (27)|url=http://www.cnews041.com/48695|access-date=10 April 2023|website=C뉴스041}}</ref> The {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} came in many colors, but yellow and/or green were most common. However the emperor wore purple {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}}, and the queen wore red.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(27)" /> In the Joseon dynasty, ordinary women wore {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} as part of their wedding dress.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(27)" />

==== Myeonbok and Jeokui ====

===== Myeonbok =====
''[[Myeonbok]]'' were the king's religious and formal ceremonial robes while ''[[Diyi|jeokui]]'' were the queen's equivalent during the Goryeo and Joseon dynasties.<ref name="Myeonbok">{{Cite web|title=면복|url=https://terms.naver.com/entry.naver?cid=46671&docId=545727&categoryId=46671|access-date=10 April 2023|website=terms.naver.com|language=ko}}</ref> Myeonbok was composed of ''Myeonryu-Gwan'' ({{Korean|hangul=면류관|labels=no}}) and ''Gujang-bok'' ({{Korean|hangul=구장복|labels=no}}).<ref name="Myeonbok" /> Myonryu-Gwan had beads, which hung loose; these would prevent the king from seeing wickedness.<ref name="Myeonbok" /> There were also wads of cotton in the left and right sides of Myeonryu-Gwan, and these were supposed to make the king oblivious to the influence of corrupt officials. Gujang-bok was black, and it bore nine symbols out of the [[Twelve Ornaments|Twelve ornaments]], which all represented the king:<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Dragon]]: A dragon's appearance paralleled how the king governed and subsequently brought balance to the world.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Fire]]: The king was expected to be intelligent and wise to govern the people effectively, like a guiding light represented by the fire.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Pheasant]]: The image of a pheasant represented magnificence.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Mountain]]: As a mountain is high, the king was on a par in terms of status and was deserving of respect and worship.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Tiger]]: A tiger represented the king's courage.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Monkey]]: A monkey symbolized wisdom.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Rice]]: As the people needed rice to live, the king was compared to this foodstuff as he had the responsibility of protecting their welfare.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Axe]]: This indicated that the king had the ability to save and take lives.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Aquatic plant|Water plant]]: Another depiction of the king's magnificence.<ref name="Myeonbok" />

===== Jeokui =====
''[[Diyi|Jeokui]]'' or ''tseogwi'' ({{Korean|hangul=적의}}) was arranged through the use of different colors as a status symbol within the royal family.<ref name="Jeokui">{{Cite web|title=왕실 여성들의 적의|url=https://terms.naver.com/entry.naver?cid=58840&docId=3574807&categoryId=58853|access-date=10 April 2023|website=terms.naver.com|language=ko}}</ref> The empress wore purple-red colored Jeokui, the queen wore pink, and the crown princess wore deep blue.<ref name="Jeokui" /> "Jeok" means pheasant, and so Jeokui often had depictions of pheasants embroidered onto it.<ref name="Jeokui" />

==== Cheolique ====
''[[Terlig|Cheolique]]'' (also Cheolick or Cheollik; {{Korean|hangul=철릭|labels=no}}) was a Korean adaptation of the [[Terlig|Mongol tunic]], imported in the late 1200s during the [[Goryeo dynasty]]. Cheolique, unlike other forms of Korean clothing, is an amalgamation of a blouse with a kilt into a single item of clothing. The flexibility of the clothing allowed easy horsemanship and archery. During the [[Joseon dynasty]], they continued to be worn by the king, and military officials for such activities.<ref name="Cheolique">{{Cite web|title=철릭|url=https://terms.naver.com/entry.naver?cid=46671&docId=563301&categoryId=46671|access-date=10 April 2023|website=terms.naver.com|language=ko}}</ref> It was usually worn as a military uniform, but by the end of the Joseon dynasty, it had begun to be worn in more casual situations.<ref name="Cheolique" /> A unique characteristic allowed the detachment of the Cheolique's sleeves which could be used as a bandage if the wearer was injured in combat.<ref name="Cheolique" />

==== Ayngsam ====
''[[Panling Lanshan|Ayngsam]]'' was the formal clothing for students during the national government exam and governmental ceremonies.<ref name="Aengsam">{{Cite web|title=앵삼|url=https://terms.naver.com/entry.naver?cid=46671&docId=580178&categoryId=46671|access-date=10 April 2023|website=terms.naver.com|language=ko}}</ref> It was typically yellow, but for the student who scored the highest in the exam, they were rewarded with the ability to wear green Aengsam.<ref name="Aengsam" /> If the highest-scoring student was young, the king awarded him with red-colored Aengsam.<ref name="Aengsam" /> It was similar to the [[Panling Lanshan|''namsam'']] but with a different colour.<ref>{{Cite web|title=난삼(襴(幱)衫)|url=http://encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Contents/Item/E0011701|access-date=9 May 2021|website=[[Encyclopedia of Korean Culture]]}}</ref>

=== Accessories ===
[[File:Hanbok accessories.jpg|thumb|{{transliteration|ko|Hanbok}} accessories]]

==== Binyeo ====
''[[Binyeo]]'' was a traditional ornamental hairpin, and it had a different-shaped tip again depending on social status.<ref name="Binyeo">{{Cite web|title=비녀|url=https://terms.naver.com/entry.naver?cid=40942&docId=1105813&categoryId=32094|access-date=10 April 2023|website=terms.naver.com|language=ko}}</ref> As a result, it was possible to determine the social status of the person by looking at the binyeo. Women in the royal family had dragon or phoenix-shaped Binyeo while ordinary women had trees or [[Japanese apricot]] flowers.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(21)">{{Cite web|title=≪C뉴스041≫ 조은아의 한복이야기 (21)|url=http://www.cnews041.com/36151|access-date=10 April 2023|website=C뉴스041}}</ref> And Binyeo was a proof of marriage. Therefore, to a woman, Binyeo was an expression of chastity and decency.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.mhj21.com/9863|title=≪문화저널21≫ 기혼여성들에게 꼭 필요했던 장신구 비녀|website=문화저널21|access-date=26 March 2019}}</ref>

==== Daenggi ====
''[[Daenggi]]'' is a traditional Korean ribbon made of cloth to tie and to decorate braided hair.

==== Norigae ====
''[[Norigae]]'' was a typical traditional accessory for women; it was worn by all women regardless of social ranks.<ref name="Norigae">{{Cite web|title=노리개|url=https://terms.naver.com/entry.naver?cid=40942&docId=1076917&categoryId=32094|access-date=10 April 2023|website=terms.naver.com|language=ko}}</ref><ref name=":14">{{Cite book|last=Yi|first=Kyŏng-ja|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/71358055|title=Norigae : splendor of the Korean Costume|date=2005|publisher=Ewha Womans University Press|others=Lee Jean Young|isbn=89-7300-618-5|location=Seoul, Korea|pages=12–13|oclc=71358055}}</ref> However, the social rank of the wearer determined the different sizes and materials of the norigae.<ref name=":14" />

==== Danghye ====
''Danghye'' or ''tanghye'' ({{Korean|hangul=당혜|labels=no}}) were shoes for married women in the Joseon dynasty.<ref name="Danghye">{{Cite web|title=당혜|url=https://terms.naver.com/entry.naver?cid=46671&docId=534624&categoryId=46671|access-date=10 April 2023|website=terms.naver.com|language=ko}}</ref> Danghye were decorated with trees bearing grapes, [[pomegranates]], [[chrysanthemums]], or [[peonies]]: these were symbols of longevity.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(11)">{{Cite web|title=≪C뉴스041≫ 조은아의 한복이야기 (11)|url=http://www.cnews041.com/29559|access-date=10 April 2023|website=C뉴스041}}</ref>

===== Kunghye =====
Danghye for a woman in the royal family were known as ''kunghye'' ({{Korean|hangul=궁혜|labels=no}}), and they were usually patterned with flowers.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(11)" />

===== Onhye =====
Danghye for an ordinary woman were known as ''onhye'' ({{Korean|hangul=온혜|labels=no}}).<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(11)" />

== See also ==
{{Portal|Fashion}}
*[[List of Korean clothing]]
*[[Hanfu]] - a Chinese equivalent. 
*[[Vietnamese clothing]] - a Vietnamese equivalent. 
*[[Wafuku]] - a Japanese equivalent.

== Notes ==
{{reflist|group=note|30em}}

== Footnotes ==
{{Reflist|30em}}

== References ==
{{Refbegin}}
* An, Myung Sook (안명숙); Kim, Yong Ser (김용서) {{in lang|ko}} 1998. ''Hanʼguk poksiksa'' (한국복식사). Seoul. Yehaksa (예학사) {{ISBN|978-89-89668-11-4}}
* Kim, Ki Sun (김기선). {{in lang|ko}} 2005. [http://www.dbpia.co.kr/view/ar_view.asp?pid=734&isid=33818&arid=710104&topMenu=&topMenu1= '' Information about Mongolian pigtail'' 몽골의 辮髮에 대하여]. The Institute of Asian Ethno-Forms and Culture. v. 5, 81-97
* Kim, Moon Ja {{in lang|ko}}, 2004. [http://dbpia.co.kr/view/ar_view.asp?arid=567713 ''A study on the Source of Hanbok in ancient times and the position of Hanbok on the Globalism''] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110102004542/http://dbpia.co.kr/view/ar_view.asp?arid=567713 |date=2 January 2011 }} (고대 한복의 원류 및 세계화 속의 한복의 위치), Society of Korean Traditional Costume, v. 7.1, 7-15
* Lee, Kyung-Ja (이경자) {{in lang|ko}}, 2003, [https://books.google.com/books?id=ZSjyNv61pT4C ''Uri ot ŭi chŏnt'ong yangsik'' (우리옷의 전통양식 The Traditional Style of Korean Clothes)] [[Ewha Womans University]] Press. {{ISBN|89-7300-514-6}}
*{{cite book|last= Levinson|first= David |title=Encyclopedia of modern Asia, Volume 2|publisher= Charles Scribner's Sons|pages= 120–121|year= 2002|isbn= 978-0-684-80617-4}}
* McCallion, Aleasha; Condra, Jill. 2008. ''[https://books.google.com/books?id=S8bTzilz1BMC The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through World History]''. [[Greenwood Publishing Group]]. p.&nbsp;221 - 228, {{ISBN|0-313-33664-4}}
* Nelson, Sarah. 1993. ''The archaeology of Korea''. [[Cambridge University Press]]. {{ISBN|0-521-40783-4}}
* You, Soon Lye (유순례) {{in lang|ko}} 2006, ''Comparative Research on the Costume Aesthetic Korean & Mongolia'' (몽골과 한국의 전통복식 미의식 비교에 대한 연구), Society of Korean Traditional Costume, v. 6, 183-185
{{Refend}}

== External links ==
* {{Commons category-inline}}
* [https://thekoreaninme.com/blogs/hanbok-philosophy/hanbok-history-evolution Hanbok History Evolution]
* [https://thekoreaninme.com/blogs/hanbok-philosophy/hanbok-history-infographic Hanbok History Infographic]
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20071113153646/http://myhome.naver.com/korean_dress/history1.htm History of Hanbok] {{in lang|ko}}
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20071021095831/http://goldhanbok.com/data/data_kind.asp Information about Hanbok] {{in lang|ko}}
* [http://www.lifeinkorea.com/culture/clothes/clothes.cfm Traditional Korean Clothing] - Life in Korea
* [http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/CU/CU_EN_8_1_2_1.jsp Official Korea Tourism Organization - Hanbok Clothing] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161013070712/http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/CU/CU_EN_8_1_2_1.jsp |date=13 October 2016 }}

{{Folk costume}}
{{Timeline of clothing and fashion}}

[[Category:Culture of Korea]]
[[Category:Korean clothing]]
[[Category:Folk costumes]]
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