Английская Википедия:Chinese hairpin

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Шаблон:Short descriptionШаблон:Infobox clothing type

Шаблон:Transl (Шаблон:Lang) (also known as Шаблон:Transl (Шаблон:Lang or Шаблон:Lang), Шаблон:Transl (Шаблон:Lang) or Шаблон:Transl (Шаблон:Lang) for short)[1][2] and Шаблон:Transl (钗) are generic terms for hairpin in China.[3] Шаблон:Transl (with the same character of Шаблон:Lang) is also the term used for hairpins of the Qin dynasty.[4] The earliest form of Chinese hair stick was found in the Neolithic Hemudu culture relics; the hair stick was called ji (笄), and were made from bones, horns, stones, and jade.[5]

Hairpins are an important symbol in Chinese culture,[1] and are associated with many Chinese cultural traditions and customs.[6] They were also used as every day hair ornaments in ancient China;[3] all Chinese women would wear a hairpin, regardless of their social rank.[7] The materials, elaborateness of the hairpin's ornaments, and the design used to make the hairpins were markers of the wearer's social status.[1][6] Hairpins could be made out of various materials, such as jade, gold, silver, ivory, bronze, bamboo, carved wood, tortoiseshell and bone, as well as others.[3][8][1][9]

Prior to the establishment of the Qing dynasty, both men and women coiled their hair into a bun using a Шаблон:Transl.[3] There were many varieties of hairpin, many having their own names to denote specific styles, such as Шаблон:Transl, Шаблон:Transl, Шаблон:Transl, Шаблон:Transl and Шаблон:Transl.[10][3][11]

Cultural

Burials

During the Chinese funeral period, women in mourning were not allowed to wear hairpins.[1]

Шаблон:Transl ceremony

Шаблон:See also Шаблон:Transl played an important role in the coming-of age of Han Chinese women.[1][4] Before the age of 15 years old, women did not use hairpins, and always kept their hair in braids.[1] When a woman turned 15, she stopped wearing braids, and a hairpin ceremony called Шаблон:Transl (Шаблон:Lang), or "hairpin initiation", would be held to mark the rite of passage.[3][1][6][4] During the ceremony, their hair would be coiled into a bun with a Шаблон:Transl hairpin.[1][4] After the ceremony, the woman would be eligible for marriage.[3][6][4]

Hairpins as a love token

Betrothal and wedding customs

When engaged to be married, Chinese women would take the hairpin from their hair and give it to their male fiancé.[1] After the wedding, the husband would then return the hairpin to his newly-wed wife by placing it back in her hair.[1]

Separation and reunion love token

The Шаблон:Transl hairpin[12] also used to be a form of love token; when lovers were forced to break apart, they would often break a hairpin in half, and each would keep half of the hairpin until they were reunited.[3]

Similarly, when married couples were separated for a long period of time, they would break a hairpin in two and each keep one part.[1] If they were to meet again in the future, they would then put the hairpin together again, as a proof of their identity and as a symbol of their reunion.[1]

Design and construction

Materials

Файл:Tang Silver Hairpins (14254856355).jpg
Silver hairpins, Tang dynasty

Initially, Chinese people liked hairpins which were made out of bone and jade.[13] Hairpins which were made out of carved jade appeared in China as early as the Neolithic Period (Шаблон:Circa), along with jade carving technology.[7] Some ancient Chinese hairpins dating from the Shang dynasty can still be found in some museums.[14]

By the Bronze Age, hairpins which were made out of gold had been introduced into China by people living on the country's Northern borders.[13] Some ancient Chinese hairpins dating back to 300 BC were made from bone, horn, wood, and metal.[8]

The art of engraving wood first appeared in the Tang dynasty, and this new form of art was then applied to large wooden Chinese hairpins.[15] Many of these wooden hairpins were then coated with silver.[15]

In the Ming dynasty, the hairpins became more elaborate, and the carvings were made on silver, ivory, and jade, with pearl being used often as a setting.[15]

Decorations

Hairpins could also be decorated with gemstones, as well as designs of flowers, dragons, and phoenixes.[8]

Types

There are various types of Chinese hairpins:

Шаблон:Transl

The Шаблон:Transl is a type of hairpin with a single pin.[10][9] The zan could also come in different styles such as:[10]

Phoenix hairpin

Phoenix (Fenghuang) hairpin originated in Qin dynasty and had an upper part made of gold and silver while the feet was made of tortoise shell; it later evolved into the fengguan during the Song dynasty. The fengguan then continued to evolve further in the Ming and Qing dynasties, and in the modern republic.[16] In the Han dynasty, an imperial edict decreed that the hairpin with fenghuang decorations had to become the formal headpiece for the empress dowager and the imperial grandmother.[16] The fenghuang is an auspicious bird in Chinese tradition and is believed to represent the empress or the bride in a wedding.[17] Phoenix hairpins were also made and used by Peranakan women after settling in the Straits as part of their wedding headdresses.[17]

Шаблон:Transl

The Шаблон:Transl is a type of hairpin with double or multiple pins.[10][9] The double-pin Шаблон:Transl evolved from the Шаблон:Transl; it was frequently found in Chinese poetry and literature as it played an important symbol and as a love token.[12]

Шаблон:Transl

The Шаблон:Transl was an elaborate and exquisite form of hairpin which denoted noble status.[3] It was generally made of gold and was often decorated with jewels (such as pearls and jade) and carved designs (such as in the shape of dragons or phoenix).[3][13] It looked similar to a Шаблон:Transl,[12] but one of its main characteristics is its dangling features, which gave it its name Шаблон:Transl (lit. "shake as you go" or "that sway with each step" or "step shake").[3][9][18][12] The Шаблон:Transl became popular in the Western Han dynasty.[13]

Шаблон:Transl hairpin

The Шаблон:Transl hairpin, also known as "kingfisher feather hairpin",[19] were made using the traditional Chinese art of Шаблон:Transl.[18]

Flower-hairpin headdresses

The Flower-hairpin headdresses is a generic term which was used to refer to the jewellery and headdresses worn by the Song dynasty Empresses and imperial concubines.[20] The Flower-hairpin headdresses were decorated with flower hairpins.[20] Different numbers of flowers were used depending on the imperial consorts' ranks and specific imperial rules were issued on their usage.[20]

Шаблон:Transl

Known as the "gold cicada on a jade leaf" hairpin, or Шаблон:Transl (a homonym for the Chinese idiom "one of noble birth"),[21] a type of Ming dynasty hairpin in the shape of a cicada made of gold sitting on a piece of jade carved in the shape of a leaf.[9][21]

Шаблон:Transl

The Шаблон:Transl is a Chinese hairpin worn by women in the Ming dynasty in their hair bun; the upper part of the hairpin was usually in the shape of a Buddhist statue, an immortal, a Sanskrit word, or a phoenix.[11] The Chinese character Шаблон:Transl (Шаблон:Lang, "longevity") could also be used to decorate the hairpin.[11]

See also

References

  1. ↑ 1,00 1,01 1,02 1,03 1,04 1,05 1,06 1,07 1,08 1,09 1,10 1,11 1,12 Шаблон:Cite web
  2. ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
  3. ↑ 3,00 3,01 3,02 3,03 3,04 3,05 3,06 3,07 3,08 3,09 3,10 Шаблон:Cite web
  4. ↑ 4,0 4,1 4,2 4,3 4,4 Шаблон:Cite book
  5. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  6. ↑ 6,0 6,1 6,2 6,3 Шаблон:Cite web
  7. ↑ 7,0 7,1 Шаблон:Cite web
  8. ↑ 8,0 8,1 8,2 Шаблон:Cite book
  9. ↑ 9,0 9,1 9,2 9,3 9,4 Шаблон:Cite book
  10. ↑ 10,0 10,1 10,2 10,3 10,4 10,5 10,6 10,7 Шаблон:Cite book
  11. ↑ 11,0 11,1 11,2 Шаблон:Cite web
  12. ↑ 12,0 12,1 12,2 12,3 Шаблон:Cite web
  13. ↑ 13,0 13,1 13,2 13,3 Шаблон:Cite web
  14. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  15. ↑ 15,0 15,1 15,2 Шаблон:Cite book
  16. ↑ 16,0 16,1 Шаблон:Cite journal
  17. ↑ 17,0 17,1 Шаблон:Cite web
  18. ↑ 18,0 18,1 Шаблон:Cite thesis
  19. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  20. ↑ 20,0 20,1 20,2 Шаблон:Cite book
  21. ↑ 21,0 21,1 Шаблон:Cite web

Шаблон:Types of Han Chinese clothing

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