Английская Википедия:Cambodian cuisine
Шаблон:Culture of Cambodia Шаблон:Contains special characters Шаблон:Use dmy dates Cambodian cuisine combines the culinary traditions of many different ethnic groups in Cambodia, an important subset of which is Khmer cuisine, the nearly-two-thousand-year-old culinary tradition of the majority Khmer people.[1][2] Over centuries, Cambodian cuisine has incorporated elements of Indian, Chinese (in particular Teochew), Portuguese and French cuisine, and due to some of these shared influences and mutual interaction, it has many similarities with the cuisines of Central Thailand, and Southern Vietnam and to a lesser extent also Central Vietnam, Northeastern Thailand and Laos.
Khmer cuisine can be classified into rural, elite and royal cuisine,[3] although the difference between the royal and popular cuisine is not as pronounced as in the case of Thailand and Laos.[4] The Khmer royal dishes use more varied and higher quality ingredients, and contain more meat.[3]
Historical influences
2nd–9th century
Many spices in Khmer cuisine were introduced by Indian merchants around 2nd century. The Indian influence on cuisine among other aspects of Khmer culture was already noted by a Chinese visitor around 400 AD.[5] From South India through Java, Khmer royal cuisine adopted the preparation of curry pastes, adding lemongrass and galangal to the recipe.[6] According to Cambodian anthropologist Ang Choulean, the influence of Indian cuisine on rural Cambodian cuisine has been limited or even non-existent.[7]
A passage in the Book of Sui mentions that the food eaten by inhabitants of 7th century Chenla "includes a lot of butter, milk-curds, powdered sugar, rice, and also millet, from which they make a sort of cake which is soaked in meat juices and eaten at the beginning of the meal."[8]
9th–15th century
Between 9th and 15th century the culinary influence of the growing Khmer Empire spread beyond the borders of modern-day Cambodia into what is now Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, and Indonesia.[9] According to Chinese diplomat Zhou Daguan's account, onions, mustard, chives, eggplants, watermelons, winter gourds, snake gourds, amaranth and many other vegetables,[10] as well pomegranates, sugarcane, lotus flowers, lotus roots, Chinese gooseberries, bananas, lychees, oranges, and many other fruits were available in the Khmer Empire in late 13th century.[11]
Food crops and other plants were actively cultivated and harvested in tropical gardens both in and around cities and temples of the Khmer Empire. Archaeobotanical investigations at Angkor Wat and Ta Prohm have identified macroremains of rice, sesame, mung beans, crepe ginger, black peppers, long peppers, and either citron or kaffir lime rind, as well as phytoliths from plants of Cucurbitaceae, Mus, Arecaceae, and Canarium families,[12] while archaeobotanical investigations at 14th–15th century Angkor Thom have identified macroremains of rice, sesame, mung beans, pigeon peas, hyacinth beans, and yardlong beans.[13]
For centuries, Khmer Empire was the dominant Indianized civilization in the region and its influence also reached culinary arts. Khmer Empire played a mediating role in transferring the Indian culinary influence now fundamental to Central Thai cuisine.[14] The close affinity between Cambodian and Central Thai cuisine has been attributed to the extensive, centuries-long contact between the Khmer Empire and Ayutthaya Kingdom. The flavour principles of many Cambodian dishes, such as sour fish soups, stews and coconut-based curries, including steamed curries, are very similar to Central Thai cuisine, although Cambodian dishes contain much less chilli and sugar,[15] and more aromatic spices such as cardamom, star anise, cloves, and nutmeg, along with lemongrass, ginger, galangal, coriander, and wild lime leaves.[9]
Khmer cuisine has also influenced Thailand's Isan cuisine[16] and Khmer cuisine is very popular in the region's lower southern provinces of Surin, Sisaket and Buriram that have a large Northern Khmer population.[17] Khmer-influenced dishes of the Surin province include sanlo chek, salot rao or kaeng phueak, ang kaep bop, and som jruk.[18] As Thai tribes migrated southwards they were influenced by the Khmer practice of fermenting fish and adopted local ingredients, including prahok, which became imbedded in the Isan (as pla ra) and Lao cuisine (as padaek) from the time both Isan and Laos were part of the Khmer Empire.[19]
Lao cuisine has influenced the cuisine of Cambodia through Lao migration into the country.[20] Khmer cuisine has much less in common with Isan and Lao cuisines than with Central Thai cuisine.[15]
16th–18th century
In beginning of 16th century, Portuguese merchants and explorers arrived in Cambodia and started introducing various fruits and vegetables, such as papayas, tomatoes, pineapples, peanuts, cashews, avocados, vanilla, apples, passion fruit and sweet potatoes from South America, Europe and other parts of Asia, however, Portuguese influence on Cambodian cuisine was not just limited to ingredients. Traditional Khmer dessert krob knor (Шаблон:Lang) is a direct descendant of Portuguese fios de ovos, and Cambodian egg cakes num barang (នំបារាំង) are also believed to be of Portuguese origin.[21]
Шаблон:Multiple image From 18th century onwards, the ingredients and dishes of Mekong Delta's indigenous Khmer Krom, most notably spices (cardamom, cinnamon, star anise, clove, ginger, turmeric and ground coriander), curries and fermented food have influenced the cuisine of modern-day Southern Vietnam as large numbers of Vietnamese began settling in the area.[22] Khmer Krom dishes, such as Шаблон:Ill, bún mắm and canh xiêm lo have also been adopted by the region's Vietnamese and Chinese people, while Khmer Krom have adopted the Vietnamese lẩu mắm and canh chua and Chinese Yang Chow fried rice into their cuisine.[23] Sóc Trăng province's Khmer specialties cốm dẹp[24] and nom kapong[25] (Шаблон:Lang) have become popular across Mekong Delta as well as some other localities in Vietnam, while Khmer-style crepes ọm chiếl are sold in food stalls around Mekong Delta, especially Trà Vinh province.[26] Conversely, the Vietnamese influence on Cambodian cuisine intensified during two centuries of Vietnamese rule in Cambodia.[5] A dish that Cambodian cuisine is believed to have been borrowed from the Vietnamese is beef lok lak.[27][28]
19th–20th century
From 1863 to 1953, Cambodia was a French protectorate, which led to the adoption of French culinary elements into Cambodian cuisine. Baguettes (or more often demi-baguettes) became common in Cambodia and were made into sandwiches, often with butter, sardines in oil or with pâté, or were eaten with curries, instead of fresh rice noodles or rice. Slices of baguettes with melted cheese, pork liver pâté or sardines in oil are also sometimes served with fried eggs or omelette for breakfast. The French also introduced ingredients, such as potatoes, onions, butter, margarine, and carrots. Fried potatoes are served in the so-called "English" version of lok lak, carrots are added to soups, lettuce leaves or sliced onions are included in other Cambodian dishes, while butter and margarine is the preferred fat in Cambodian cooking. Other Khmer adoptions from the French cuisine include coffee, condensed milk, chocolate, beer and wine.[29] Cambodian cuisine shares the French influence with Vietnamese and Lao cuisine as Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia were all part of French Indochina.[30]
In the decades after World War II, many Cambodian urban middle-class and elite families employed cooks trained to prepare French dishes, and the children of these households often did not learn cooking themselves. The transmission of Cambodian culinary knowledge was even further disrupted by the Cambodian Civil War and Cambodian genocide in the 1970s and 1980s.[9] During the rule of Khmer Rouge, Cambodian cuisine was reduced to a plain rice gruel and Cambodians were forced to start catching and eating insects, frogs, snakes, snails and other small animals to avoid starvation. One remnant of the Khmer Rouge era in Cambodian cuisine are fried spiders (a-ping) that are sold as street food to tourists and still eaten by some locals, especially in Skuon, for which it has earned the nickname Spiderville.[31]
21st century
Nowadays, more and more Asian fast food chains (such as The Pizza Company, Lotteria, Pepper Lunch, Yoshinoya and Bonchon)[32] and Western fast food chains (such as Burger King, KFC, Krispy Kreme and Carl's Jr.) have entered the Cambodian market, especially in Phnom Penh, and fast food has become increasingly integrated into the Cambodian food scene, particularly among the younger generation.[33]
Since the early 2010s there has been an emerging grassroots culinary movement in Siem Reap termed "New Cambodian Cuisine" loosely consisting of six Cambodian chefs and restaurateurs (Pola Siv, Sothea Seng, Pol Kimsan and Sok Kimsan, Mengly Mork and Pheak Tim) experimenting with and modernizing traditional Cambodian dishes.[34] More recently, mobile applications dedicated to Khmer traditional recipes have also been developed, such as "Khmer Cooking Recipe" downloaded more than 100,000 times on Google Play and "Khmer Cooking".[35]
In the United States (20th–21st century)
Since the late 1970s, approximately 200,000 Cambodians have settled in the United States of America, nearly half in Southern California, fleeing the Khmer Rouge and the following economic and political turmoil in Cambodia. Cambodian Americans own about 9,000 businesses, predominantly restaurants and grocery stores catering to the local Cambodian American community. Cambodian Americans own around 90% of the 5,000 independently owned doughnut shops in California.[36] The most successful of them was Ted Ngoy who at the peak of his success owned about 70 doughnut shops in California and was nicknamed "The Donut King".[37]
Over time the food cooked by Cambodians in the United States developed into a distinct Cambodian American variety. Meat, especially beef and chicken, plays a much more central role in Cambodian American meals, which also make much more extensive use of tomatoes and corn.[38] Unhealthy eating habits, such as consumption of fatty meat, and obesity rates are higher for the Cambodian Americans who experienced more severe food deprivation and insecurity in the past.[39] The food of second- and third-generation Cambodian Americans has become more Americanized. Cambodian cuisine is not well known within the United States and is usually compared to Thai food by many Americans. Most Cambodian restaurants are located in cities with a significant Cambodian population, such as Lowell, Massachusetts, Long Beach, California and Seattle, Washington. Some of the Cambodian-owned restaurants, however, served other Asian cuisines, especially Thai and Chinese,[38] whereas in the ones that serve Cambodian cuisine Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese-influenced dishes usually dominate over Khmer dishes.[40]
Long Beach, California has the most Cambodian restaurants in the U.S.: twenty-two, including Phnom Penh Noodle Shack and Sophy's. Some Cambodian-owned restaurants in the city, such as Little La Lune Cuisine and Crystal Thai Cambodian, serve Thai food, while others, such as Hak Heang or Golden Chinese Express, serve Chinese food.[38] Lowell, Massachusetts, has at least twenty Cambodian restaurants, among them Tepthida Khmer and Simply Khmer. Other notable Cambodian restaurants include Sok Sab Bai in Portland, as well as Phnom Penh Noodle House and Queen's Deli in Seattle. The most famous Cambodian restaurant in the U.S. is the Elephant Walk, serving French-inspired Khmer cuisine.[38] It was opened in 1991 in Cambridge, Massachusetts by Longteine de Monteiro. The restaurant also created a cookbook of the same name, which is the first Cambodian American cookbook.[40]
In 2000, a part of Central Long Beach was officially designated as Cambodia Town, where since 2005 an annual parade and culture festival takes place that also features Cambodian cuisine.[41] Since the late 2010s there has been an emerging wave of second-generation Cambodian American chefs and restaurants in the U.S. focusing on Cambodian cuisine.[42][43][44] Among them is the award-winning restaurant Nyum Bai, opened in Fruitvale, Oakland, California in 2018 by chef Nite Yun.[45]
Cambodian Chinese cuisine
Over time, Chinese Cambodians have developed a food tradition that's distinct from both Khmer and Chinese cuisine.[46] The foodways of the Chinese Cambodians have not only been influenced by the Khmer but also by the Vietnamese and Chinese Vietnamese foodways.[47]
The Chinese began migrating to Khmer Empire in 13th century, bringing their cuisine with them, from which the Khmer cuisine adopted noodles, soy sauce, different vegetables, stir frying, steaming and the custom of eating soup for breakfast.Шаблон:Sfn Until the mid-20th century, the Chinese that mostly migrated to Cambodia were Teochews and to a lesser extent also Hainans, Hakkas, and Cantonese.[48] Nowadays, the Teochew kway teow has become a popular dish in Cambodia, where it is eaten for breakfast, lunch and dinner or as a snack and often flavoured with lime, chili, fish sauce, and palm sugar.[49]
Geographic variations
In Cambodia's coastal regions, dishes with saltwater fish are more common. Kampot used to be famous for its deep-fried pomfret with garlic, sugar, lime juice and chilies. The colonial resort Kep historically used to host numerous fine dining seafood restaurants along the promenade that after the city's complete destruction by Khmer Rouge in 1970s have been replaced by individual vendors offering simpler seafood, such as crabs sauteed with onions and black pepper, or pieces of dried squid, pounded or grilled over a wood fire served with pickled papaya and cucumbers.[50]
In northern part of the country, along the Cambodia–Thailand border, dishes have been influenced by Thai cuisine and use an increased amount of coconut milk, chillies and sugar. Cambodian dishes in the north also use deer, wild bird and other types of game. Bamboo shoots, popular in Lao cuisine, are also included in dishes more frequently. In northwest Cambodia, remnants of the Khmer imperial cuisine are more visible, most notably by its steamed curries.[50]
Kitchen and eating utensils
In Khmer Empire, kitchens earthenware pots were used to cook rice, and sometimes an earthenware stove was used to make sauces. Hearths were formed by burying three stones in the ground and ladles were made from coconuts. Pottery dishes imported from China or copperware were used for serving rice, while sauce containers were made from leaves. Chiao leaves were also used to make single use spoons for carrying liquid to the mouth.[51]
The south wall of 12th/13th century Bayon temple depicts a Khmer kitchen, including its utensils, many of which are still used throughout modern Cambodia. According to local villager stories passed down by generations, the 12th century Wat Athvea once housed an Angkorean-era royal open-air kitchen. They describe the temple's loose fallen stones as kraya cham-en meaning "the preparation of the royal meal" and talk about once-standing brick stoves and a wall where meat, baskets of ingredients, and utenstils were hung. However, French archaeologist Claude Jacques argues that there is no archaeological evidence that a kitchen from the Khmer Empire had survived in the following centuries and believes that Daguan's writings and the Bayon temple's bas-relief are the only surviving documentation of ancient Khmer kitchens.[51]
Nowadays, Khmer rural kitchens are usually placed in a airy location, close, but separate from the main house to avoid smoke from burning firewood and undesirable odours from disturbing the main household. The most important Khmer kitchen utensils are:
- A mortar and pestle for making kroeung;
- A bamboo sieve for filtering prahok and ripe tamarind juice;
- Earthen stoves with varying heat intensity for cooking different dishes;
- A coconut grater;
- Earthen pots for cooking rice and soup, as well as storing water;
- Jars for storing prahok, kapi and other ingredients.
- Loose bamboo baskets for storing vegetables.[51]
In many kitchens, aluminium pots have replaced earthenware. Utensils are usually hung on the walls of the kitchen for easier access. With frying adopted from the Chinese, frying pans are also often found in modern Khmer kitchens. Although usually not considered part of the kitchen utensils, some houses may also have a larger mortar for grinding rice, and flat round bamboo trays for separating husk from the grain.[51]
Ingredients
Rice
Because of Cambodia's geographic location, rice together with fish, especially freshwater fish, are the two most important sources of nutrients in the Cambodian diet. Rice is a staple food generally eaten at every meal.[53]
Rice is believed to have been cultivated by the ancestors of the Khmers in the territory of Cambodia since 5,000 to 2,000 B.C.[54] The advanced hydraulic engineering developed during the Khmer Empire allowed the Khmer to harvest rice and other crops three to four times a year.[55] According to the International Rice Research Institute, there are approximately 2,000 rice varieties indigenous to Cambodia bred over the centuries by the Cambodian rice farmers.[56] One of them – "Malys Angkor" (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang) – has been regarded the world's best rice.[57]
Fermented sauces
In Khmer, a distinction is made between fermented seafood depending on its consistency and the ingredient. Шаблон:Lang (Шаблон:Lang) is the general term for seafood fermented with a special technique and usually includes more solid pieces of the fermented ingredient, whereas prahok (ប្រហុក, Шаблон:Lang) and kapi (កាពិ, Шаблон:Lang) have more homogeneous consistency than mam.
Шаблон:Lang is prepared by adding a mixture of salt, roasted red sticky rice and palm sugar to snakehead fillets and fermenting them for more than a year. The palm sugar and rice give mam an earthier and sweeter flavour and a reddish tone.[58][59] Prahok, on the other hand, can either be made from small fish with all the bones and less salt (called prahok chhoeung) or large deboned fish and more salt (called prahok sach (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang)),[19] which in turn can be made from larger fish (such as the striped snakehead (Шаблон:Lang)) or smaller fish (such as trei kamplienh), with or without roe. Roe can be removed from the fish, cleaned, drained, and fermented separately.[58] Kapi is made by pounding cleaned, dried and salted shrimp into a homogeneous paste, sun-drying it for one day, pounding the paste again, sun-drying it for two more days and pounding the paste for the final time to attain a viscous consistency.[60]
Prahok is used as flavouring for almost every Khmer dish, mixed with rice or served as a dipping sauce (ទឹកជ្រលក់, Шаблон:Lang).[19] It can also be prepared into dishes of its own, such as prahok k'tis (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), prahok kap (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), teuk khreung, teuk prahok[58] prahok ang (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), and prahok chien (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang). Fermented roe (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang) is primarily eaten with steamed eggs, omelettes and other hen or duck egg dishes.[58] Kapi is often mixed with sugar, garlic, lime juice, chilli and crushed peanuts and used as a dipping sauce for vegetables, fruit, meat and fish.[61]
Other sauces used in the Cambodian cuisine include fish sauce (ទឹកត្រី, Шаблон:Lang), oyster sauce (ទឹកប្រេងខ្យង, Шаблон:Lang), soy sauce (ទឹកស៊ីអ៊ីវ, Шаблон:Lang; Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang; Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang or Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), tamarind sauce (ទឹកអម្ពិល, Шаблон:Lang) and hoisin sauce (ទឹកសៀង). Fish sauce is an important ingredient in Khmer cooking, used to add saltiness to soups and noodle dishes, marinating meats or as a dipping sauce for fish. Mixed with ingredients, such as garlic, ginger and lime juice, it is used a sauce for spring rolls, salads and noodles. Шаблон:Sfn Oyster sauce was introduced by Chinese immigrants[62] and has become a common ingredient in Cambodian cooking used to add a tangy-sweet flavour to meats and stir-fried vegetables. Oyster sauce, along with fish sauce, and soy sauce, is commonly used together when seasoning foods. Soy sauce is also a common ingredient and condiment, mixed with garlic or aged radish to be eaten with primarily high protein dishes, as well as used to add saltiness when fish sauce is not used. Tamarind sauce is made from tamarind paste mixed with fish sauce, garlic, chilli peppers, lime juice, palm sugar, and vinegar.[63]
Herbs and spices
The most common herbs and spices in Cambodian cuisine are sweet basil (ជីរនាងវង, Шаблон:Lang), coriander (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), hot mint (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), turmeric (រមៀត, Шаблон:Lang), garlic, ginger (ខ្ញី, Шаблон:Lang), galangal (រំដេង, Шаблон:Lang), kaffir lime leaves (ស្លឹកក្រូចសើច, Шаблон:Lang), neem leaves (ស្លឹកស្ដៅ, Шаблон:Lang), peppermint (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), lemongrass (ស្លឹកគ្រៃ, Шаблон:Lang), chives (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), scallions, saw leaf herb (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), fingerroot (ខ្ខ្ជាយ, Шаблон:Lang) and rice paddy herb.[5][64]
Certain regions in Cambodia are known for their spices. Kampot pepper[65] and Kampong Speu palm sugar[66] (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang) have been granted Geographical Indications in Cambodia and protected geographical indication in the European Union. Cardamom Mountains in Southwest Cambodia are famous for their large population of wild cardamon plants.[67]
The cultivation of peppercorns in Cambodia dates back to at least the 13th century, and because of its "uniquely strong yet delicate aroma" and "slightly sweet eucalyptus taste," Kampot pepper is often regarded as the world's best pepper.[68][69][70]
Kroeung
Шаблон:Main Kroeung (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang Шаблон:IPA-km – 'ingredients') is a Khmer fresh flavouring paste commonly used in curries, soups and stir-fries, one of the essential ingredients of Cambodian cuisine. The base of the paste consists of pounded lemongrass, galangal, garlic, shallots, kaffir lime leaves and turmeric. There are five common types of kroeung: yellow kroeung (kroeung samlor m’chu), green kroeung (kroeung samlar kako) and red kroeung (kroeung samlor kari), as well as k’tis kroeung (kroeung samlor k’tis), and saraman kroeung (kroeung samlor saraman) each with different uses.[71]
Vegetables
The Cambodian diet consists heavily of leaf vegetables, such as water morning glory (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), cabbage (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), Chinese kale (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), betel (ស្លឹកម្លូ, Шаблон:Lang), vine spinach (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), and watercress (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), which are used in soups, stir-fries (ឆា, Шаблон:Lang) and salads.[5]
Cambodian cuisine also uses different squashes, such as bitter melon (ម្រះ, Шаблон:Lang), winter melon (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), kabocha, and luffa (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), root vegetables, such as carrots (ការ៉ុត, Шаблон:Lang), cassava (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), lotus rhizomes (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), potatoes (ដំឡូង, Шаблон:Lang), radish (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), sweet potatoes (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang) and jicama (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang or ប៉ិកួៈ, Шаблон:Lang) and other vegetables, such as cucumbers (ត្រសក់, Шаблон:Lang), eggplants (ត្រប់, Шаблон:Lang), tomatoes (ប៉េងប៉ោះ, Шаблон:Lang), cauliflower (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), chayote (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), shallots (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), yardlong beans (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang) and maize (ពោត, Шаблон:Lang). Many unripe fruits, such as papaya, green banana, and mango, are also used as vegetables.[5][64]
Fruits
Fruits in Cambodia are so popular that they have their own royal court. Durian (ទុរេន, Шаблон:Lang) is considered the "king", mangosteen the "queen", sapodilla (Шаблон:Lang) the "prince" and milk fruit (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang) the "princess". Other popular fruit include kuy fruit (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), romduol, pineapple (ម្នាស់, Шаблон:Lang), rose apple, jackfruit (ផ្លែខ្នុរ; Шаблон:Lang), papaya (ល្ហុង, Шаблон:Lang), watermelon (ឪឡឹក, Шаблон:Lang), banana (ចេក, Шаблон:Lang), mango (ស្វាយ, Шаблон:Lang), rambutan (សាវម៉ាវ, Шаблон:Lang),[72] guava (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), longan (មៀន, Шаблон:Lang) and tamarind (អម្ពិល, Шаблон:Lang).[5]
Although fruits are usually considered desserts,[5] some such as ripe mangoes, watermelon, and pineapples are commonly eaten with heavily salted fish with plain rice. Fruits are also made into smoothies (ទឹកក្រឡុក, Шаблон:Lang). Popular fruits for smoothies are durian, mangoes and bananas. Sun-dried limes boiled in sugar and salt water are used in chicken and duck soups, sauces with fish, as well as beverages.[73]
Since 2018, Koh Trong pomelos (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang) are recognized as one of the geographical indications in Cambodia. Pomelos grown in the Kratié Province's Koh Trong commune are known for their sweeter taste and the absence of seeds after ripening.[74]
Fish and meat
There are more than 900 different freshwater and saltwater fish species found in Cambodia. Approximately 475,000 tons of fish (ត្រី, Шаблон:Lang) are caught in Cambodia every year and a Cambodian annually consumes 63 kg of fish on average. They are fried, dried, smoked and fermented into prahok and fish sauce. Fish and fish products are eaten two to three times a day.[53] Popular fish are snakeheads, snappers, catfishes (ត្រី, Шаблон:Lang), and mackerels.[9] Cambodian chef Luu Meng has estimated that approximately 40–50% of Cambodian dishes are made with fish.[75]
In the late-13th-century Khmer Empire, cows were not used for riding, meat or hide, and geese had been recently introduced by the Chinese sailors.[76] Since the 1980s, the role of meat in the Cambodian diet has increased significantly and nowadays the consumption of meat, such as beef (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), pork (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang) and poultry, has become common, especially in the capital region.[77] In Siem Reap, ground pork or beef is made into spicy or sweet and savoury sausages (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang (pork); Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang (beef)) that are eaten with steamed white rice, congee or baguettes.[78]
Other seafood includes an array of shellfish such as crabs (ក្ដាម, Шаблон:Lang), clams, cockles (ងាវ, Шаблон:Lang), crayfish (បង្កង, Шаблон:Lang), shrimp and squid (ត្រីមឹក, Шаблон:Lang). Boiled or fried cockles seasoned with salt, chili, and garlic are sold as a popular street food.[79] Giant freshwater prawns are usually only eaten by middle- and upper-class Cambodians because of their price. More unusual varieties of meat include frogs (កង្កែប, Шаблон:Lang; most commonly eaten are East Asian bullfrogs, rice field frogs, balloon frogs, banded bullfrogs, yellow frogs and Asian common toads),[80] turtles[81] (អណ្ដើក, Шаблон:Lang) and arthropods (such as tarantulas (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), fire ants, grasshoppers (កណ្ដូប, Шаблон:Lang), giant water bugs and crickets (ចង្រិត, Шаблон:Lang)).[82] Crickets, water bugs, and tarantulas are seasoned with salt, sugar and oil, deep-fried and sold as street food.[79]
Noodles
Cambodian noodles are made out of rice, wheat and tapioca flour (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang)) in varying thickness. Wheat noodles, such as hand-pulled noodles (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang) and the thinner wheat vermicelli (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), have been adopted from the Chinese cuisine, but incorporated into distinct Cambodian noodle soups and stir-fries. Rice noodles include the indigenous lightly-fermented num banhchok (Шаблон:Lang), as well as rice vermicelli (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), banh sung (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), silver needle noodles (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang) and banh hoi (Шаблон:Lang).
Dishes
In Khmer, haan bai (ហាងបាយ Шаблон:Literal translation) is a generic term for food stalls serving both made-to-order and pre-prepared food (usually from large aluminum pots). In Phnom Penh, haan bai account for nearly four fifths of all meals eaten outside the house, with pre-prepared food venues or soup-pot restaurants accounting for nearly three-quarters of meals eaten at a haan bai. Soup-pot restaurants are the most popular dining format among Cambodians and their popularity is inversely correlated with socioeconomic status.[83]
The Khmer word haan (Шаблон:Lang) is a borrowing from Chinese háng ("store", "business"). More specifically the stalls are referred to by the main food served, for example, rice noodle stalls (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang) or coffee stalls (ហាងកាហ្វេ, Шаблон:Lang).
Stews and curries
Шаблон:Multiple image The Khmer term samlor (Шаблон:Lang) has a broad range of meanings and can be used to refer to a wide variety of stews and curries. Curries are a staple food in Cambodian cuisine and are usually eaten with rice, fresh noodles, or a baguette. They usually include seafood, chicken, beef, and pork, and vegetarian Cambodian curries are uncommon. Popular Cambodian curries are fish amok, num banhchok, kari sach moan, sour beef curry and curry leaf chicken.[84] The word kari (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang) is used to designate an Indian type of curry and is believed to be a loanword from Tamil.[85] Curries are served on all important ceremonial occasions. Cambodian curries are distinct from the rest of Asia by their use of sweet potatoes.[86]
Stir-fries
Cambodian stir-fries combine aromatic ingredients with strong flavours, such as lemongrass, galangal, holy basil and garlic. An essential component of Cambodian stir-fry dishes is fish sauce and oyster sauce, which add a pungency and umami that is balanced out with lime juice, palm sugar and other milder ingredients.[84] The Khmer term cha (Шаблон:Lang) is a loanword from Chinese and refers to the method of sautéing or stir-frying, which has been adopted into Cambodian cuisine from Chinese. The Khmer verb kha (Шаблон:Lang), on the other hand, refers to the technique of stewing in soy sauce and could be ascribed to Vietnamese kho.[85]
- Cantonese noodles (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang)
- A Cantonese Cambodian dish derived from the Cantonese chow fun. It is made by stir-frying flat rice noodles in soy sauce and oyster sauce with eggs, carrots, Chinese kale, and marinated meat (pork, beef, chicken, shrimps or mixed seafood), and sometimes topped off with a tapioca or corn starch gravy. The Cambodian-style Cantonese noodles are related to Thai pad see ew and rat na and Lao lard na.[87]
- Kampot pepper crab (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang)
- A signature seafood dish from the coastal provinces of Kep and Kampot. Crabs are stir-fried with garlic, spring onions, ground Kampot black peppercorns or Kampot green peppercorns, soy sauce and herbs.[86]
- Kroeung fishcakes (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang)
- Whitefish fillets mixed with kreoung and pounded in a mortar and pestle. The mix is shaped into patties or meatballs and deep-fried. They are eaten with a sauce made out of Kampot black peppercorns mixed with lime juice.[88]
- Kola noodles (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang)
- A vegetarian noodle dish created by the Kola people in the Pailin Province. Boiled rice vermicelli is stir-fried in soy sauce and served with boiled eggs, blanched bean sprouts, grated pickles (papaya, cucumbers and carrots) garnished with roasted peanuts and herbs. Non-vegetarian versions of this dish contain dried shrimp and fish sauce.[89]
- Stir-fried silver needle noodles (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang)
- A Chinese Cambodian dish. Silver needle noodles stir-fried in fish sauce, soy sauce and palm sugar, with garlic, bean sprouts and scallions or chives, served with a fried egg.[90]
Salads
Vegetables and fruits are at the foundation of many Cambodian salads, for example, green cabbage form the basis of neorm salads. Fruit, especially unripe fruit, are also often included in Cambodian salads, such as green papaya in bok lahong and green mango in neorm svay. Some of the most common herbs in Cambodian salads are lemongrass, mint, Asian basil, and cilantro, while popular spices that contribute pungency to the dish is garlic, ginger, shallots, and Kampot pepper. Dressings and favouring, such as fish or soy sauce, lime juice, vinegar, and white or palm sugar are often used to balance saltiness, acidity, and sweetness, while sugar is used to counterbalance the intensity of lime juice or other sour ingredients. Almost all Cambodian salads include animal protein, either beef, chicken, pork, and seafood or sometimes even raw, or marinated meat. Most popular Cambodian salads are neorm svay (Шаблон:Lang), pleah sach ko (Шаблон:Lang), neorm trasak, neorm masour, neorm kroch thlong and larb (chicken, pork, or beef).[91]
Desserts
Desserts are eaten at the end of meal or throughout the day as a snack by Cambodians. There are four main types of Cambodian desserts: rice-based desserts, fruit-based desserts, puddings (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang), and custards. Steaming and grilling are the most common cooking techniques for Cambodian desserts, whereas deep-frying is often used to make pastries as baking is not very widespread in Cambodia outside of commercial bakeries. For rice-based desserts, glutinous rice and rice flour is most frequently used. Popular Cambodian rice-based desserts are num ansom chek, num plae ai (Шаблон:Lang) and num chak chol (Шаблон:Lang). In fruit-based desserts, fruit, such as mango, jackfruit, papaya, and guava, are often combined with pandan leaf extract, banana leaves, coconut milk, cream, or shavings. Bey dom neib is an essential fruit-based Khmer dessert that blends the fragrance and sweetness of ripe mangoes and coconut. Cambodian puddings are generally made with coconut milk or cream and tapioca pearls, and are eaten either hot or chilled, with ice cubes. Two common Cambodian puddings are with corn (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang) and mung beans (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang).[92]
Beverages
Water is the most popular drink. As drinking water sources are not always easily accessible in rural areas water is boiled at home and consumed hot. In urban areas bottled water, as well as soda and sweetened fruit beverages, is available. Green tea (តែបៃតង, Шаблон:Lang) is consumed throughout the day.[5] It is believed to have been introduced in the Khmer Empire by the Chinese, but despite the growing consumption and suitable climate nowadays most green tea is imported and very little is actually grown locally.[93] Camellia sinensis cambodiensis, a local strain of the tea plant, grows in the Kirirom National Park, in the remnants of a former 300-hectare tea plantation[94] established in the 1960s by the King Norodom Sihanouk,[93] and the area around Chamkar Te village in Mondulkiri Province. Recently, there have been efforts to revive the Cambodian tea production.[95] Lemon iced tea (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang) is also prepared and consumed.
In urban areas coffee (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang) is also popular and is usually served with sweetened condensed milk rather than black.[5] Coffee can be consumed either iced (កាហ្វេទឹកកក, Шаблон:Lang) or hot.[96] It is sold in coffee carts, coffeehouse chains and specialty coffee shops.[97] More than 90% of all coffee in Cambodia is imported from other countries, such as Vietnam, Laos, and Thailand.[98]
Smoothies (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang) are an important part of an evening's consumption available at juice stalls in towns all over the country from the late afternoon. They can contain a mixture of fruits or just one or two; coconut milk, sugar syrup, condensed milk and shaved ice are also added, as is a raw egg (unless specified otherwise – ot yoh pong mowan). Soy milk (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang) is sold in the morning by street vendors; the green version is sweetened and thicker than the unsweetened white. Served either hot or cold, sweetened or unsweetened. Sugarcane juice (ទឹកអំពៅ, Шаблон:Lang) is also a popular street drink made by pressing the juice out of sugarcane stalks with a special machine. Served with ice and sometimes flavoured with citrus to balance the sweetness.[79] Pandan juice (Шаблон:Lang, Шаблон:Lang) is made from the extract of pandan leaves and usually sold in Cambodian food stalls.
Fermented beverages
Five fermented alcoholic beverages were produced in the late-13th century Khmer Empire: mead, pengyasi made from the leaves of an unidentified plant, baolengjiao made from rice hulls and rice leftovers, "sugar-shine wine" made from sugar and palm starch wine made from the starch of the leaves of a palm growing on the riverbank.[99]
Nowadays, the most popular alcoholic beverage is beer (ប៊ីយេរ, Шаблон:Lang).[100] The first domestically brewed beer was produced in the 1930s during the French Indochina period by the Brasseries & Glacières de L'Indochine company in Phnom Penh.[101] In 1995, the annual beer consumption per capita was only around two liters,[102] but by 2004 it began to rise significantly and in 2010 beer overtook spirits as the most popular alcoholic beverage in Cambodia.[100] Currently, the four biggest beer producers in Cambodia are the Cambrew Brewery, Cambodia Brewery, Khmer Brewery and Kingdom Breweries.[103] Recently, there has also been a quickly growing craft beer scene with 12 brewpubs or microbreweries operating in Cambodia in 2019.[104]
A popular traditional alcoholic beverage is rice wine (ស្រាស, Шаблон:Lang). It is produced by fermenting boiled and dried rice with a natural fermentation starter (dom bai) for at least 24 hours and distilling the resulting mixture.[105] Modern distillation methods were introduced during the French Indochina period.[106] Occasionally, there have been instances of methanol poisoning from low quality home-made rice wine.[107] Rice wine can also be infused with various herbs, roots, bark and insects to create medicinal rice wines (srah tinum).[105] A popular drink infused with deer antlers and different herbs is the Special Muscle Wine manufactured since 1968 by Lao Hang Heng Wine.[108] The company also produces popular Golden Muscle Liquor and Wrestler Red Wine,[109] whereas Sombai manufactures a line of premium infused rice wines.[110]
Another popular, albeit lower-prestige alcoholic beverage is palm wine (ទឹកត្នោតជូរ, Шаблон:Lang). It might have become popular during the French Indochina period as a cheap alternative to other wines.[111] Palm wine is produced by fermenting Asian palmyra palm sap either through spontaneous fermentation by adding several plants to the sap and hanging the containers on trees or through the addition of a fermentation starter (ម៉ែទឹកត្នោតជូរ, Шаблон:Lang) made from fermented palm sap and various dried plant xylems and bark.[112] Confirel in Pou Senchey District uses the Champagne method to produce sparkling palm wine under the name "Thnot Sparkling Mekong Wine".[113]
A regional beverage of the Mondulkiri province is yellow and purple passion fruit wine,[114] while wine from jambolan is produced by a company in Takéo province.[115] Samai Distillery, Cambodia's first rum distillery, produces rum and even uses Kampot peppercorns in one of its products.[116] Cambodia's first and only winery Chan Thai Choeung In Battambang has been commercially producing grape wine since 2005.[117]
Meals and eating etiquette
In Cambodia, meals are usually freshly prepared three times a day (for breakfast, lunch and dinner), although in rural areas only breakfast and dinner may be eaten. Due to a general lack of refrigeration, leftovers are usually discarded. A typical Cambodian breakfast consists of rice porridge with dried salted fish, rice with dried salted fish and vegetables, baguette with condensed milk or rice/egg noodles with meat and leaf vegetables. For lunch and dinner, Cambodians usually eat steamed rice, soup with meat (fish, pork, chicken or beef) and leaf vegetables, fried fish or other meat and fruit.[5]
In Cambodian meals just like the rest of Southeast Asia, all dishes are served and eaten simultaneously, as opposed to the European course-based meal format or the Chinese meal with overlapping courses.[118] The only exception is if the meal contains French-style dishes, in which case the dishes are served in courses.[9] A number of side dishes are usually served alongside the main dishes.[118] In addition to that, a variety of condiments, such as chili jam, pickled green chillies, sugar, garlic flakes, fish sauce and soy sauce, are also available.[119] While steamed rice and soups are usually served hot, side dishes may be served at room temperature. The balance of flavours and satisfaction of individual preferences are achieved by combining the individual dishes and rice.[118] For example, a Cambodian meal may consist of a sour soup, a salty fish, fried vegetables and plain rice, which is different from Thai food where sourness, saltiness, sweetness and spiciness are usually contained within a single dish.[120]
Khmer food is traditionally eaten with hands, but nowadays spoons, forks and chopsticks are also used. Knives are rarely used as the majority of Cambodian food is already cut into bite-sized pieces. Forks and spoons were introduced by the French and are used for eating rice and/or soup-based dishes, whereas chopsticks were introduced by the Chinese and are used only for eating noodle dishes.[121]
International popularity
Cambodian cuisine is not very known across the world. Food Republic has described Cambodian as "The Greatly Underappreciated Outlier In Asian Cooking".[122] Fodor's Travel has called Cambodian cuisine "the most underrated in Southeast Asia" and Siem Reap "SE Asia’s Most Underrated Food Destination",[123] while the magazine Time Out has named Kep one of "18 of the world’s most underrated food cities"[124]
Outside of Cambodia, Cambodian cuisine can generally be found in countries with sizeable Cambodian diaspora, such as the United States, France, Australia and Canada, especially in the Little Cambodia ethnic enclaves, but it is often aimed towards the local Cambodian community. Due to commercial considerations and the ethnic composition of the Cambodian diaspora many Cambodian-owned restaurants have chosen to serve the better-known Thai, Chinese and Vietnamese food instead.
Culinary diplomacy
In December 2020, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation launched an official "Food Diplomacy 2021–2023" campaign as part of a larger economic diplomacy strategy. At the launch Minister of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation Prak Sokhonn listed prahok, fish amok, neorm kroch thlong, samlor kako, samlor ktis, prahok ktis and num banhchok as some of the Khmer dishes to be promoted in the campaign. The ministry also established a program to train Cambodian cooks for serving in Cambodian embassies and a program for providing ambassador spouses with knowledge about the Khmer cuisine.[125]
In February 2021, the ministry published a cookbook The Taste of Angkor as a culinary promotion tool for Cambodian diplomatic missions abroad.[126] A 1960 Cambodian cookbook and culinary guide "The Culinary Art of Cambodia" by Princess Norodom Rasmi Sobbhana republished in May 2021 by Angkor Database was also included in the campaign.[127][128] In June 2021, a series of promotional videos under the slogan "Taste Cambodia" featuring Khmer foods and culinary activities in different Cambodian regions commissioned by the Ministry of Tourism of Cambodia were released.[129] In May 2022, culinary training and representation facilities under the name of "Angkor Kitchen" were unveiled at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation.[130][131]
Awards
Cookbooks
The cookbook "From Spiders to Water Lilies, Creative Cambodian Cooking with Friends" published by non-governmental organization Friends-International has received the 2009 Gourmand World Cookbook Award as the "Best Asian Cuisine Cookbook", becoming the first book from Cambodia to win the award.[132]
The French-language Khmer cookbook Au Pays de la Pomme Cythère, de Mère en Fille, Authentiques Recettes Khmères written and self-published by Kanika Linden and her mother Sorey Long[133] has won the 2010 Gourmand Awards as the world's "Best Asian Cuisine Cookbook". The English-language version of the book "Ambarella, Cambodian Cuisine" has won the 2013 Gourmand Awards as the "Best Asian Cuisine Cookbook" in the UK[134] and world's "Best Asian Cuisine Cookbook" in 2014.
The cookbook "The Taste of Angkor" published by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation of Cambodia has won the 2021 Gourmand World Cookbook Award as the "Best Asian Cookbook"[135][136] and 2022 Gourmand World Cookbook Awards as the "Best Asian Cuisine Book" and "Heads of State/Food" for the book's foreword written by Deputy Prime Minister Prak Sokhon.[137]
The republished Cambodian cookbook and culinary guide The Culinary Art of Cambodia has received the "Special Award of the Jury" at the 2022 Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.[138][139]
Restaurants
Joannès Rivière's Cuisine Wat Damnak has been included in position No. 50 of Asia's 50 Best Restaurants in 2015, becoming the first Cambodian restaurant to make the list.[140] In the 2016 list it rose to the 43rd position.[141] In 2020, the restaurant Embassy spearheaded by the Kimsan Twins was included in the Asia's 50 Best Restaurants newly created 50 Best Discovery list.[142]
Chefs
Cambodian chef Luu Meng has received Asia's Top Chef award from the Malaysia-based business and lifestyle magazines "Top 10 of Malaysia" and "Top 10 of Asia" in 2014.[143]
Cambodian chefs from the Cambodia Chefs' Association have won the 2019 ASEAN Gourmet Challenge with three gold medals, as well as received six silver and 17 bronze medals in the Global Pastry Chefs Challenge and Global Young Chefs Challenge categories at the Thailand Ultimate Chef Challenge taking place from 28 May to 1 June in Bangkok.[144][145]
See also
References
Bibliography
External links
Шаблон:Commons category Шаблон:Wikivoyage
- Cambodia's Forgotten Food. 11 November 2018. The Food Programme. BBC Sounds
- Dunston, Lara (16 August 2017). Cambodian Food – Cooking with Fire, Foraging, Fermentation and Flowers. Grantourismo Travels.
- Dunston, Lara (20 August 2016). Dispelling Cambodian Cuisine Myths — It's Not 'Mild Thai'! Grantourismo Travels.
- Lees, Phil (18 August 2006). Why travelers dislike Khmer food. Phnomenon.
- Exploring Cambodian Food in Long Beach, CA with Phnom Penh Noodle Shack and Allen Prom. 21 January 2021. Eating America with India
- Ethan Lim: Cambodian Futures. 25 April 2023. American Masters. PBS
- Khmer Krom recipes
- Taste Cambodia. 18 July 2021. Visit Cambodia - Kingdom of Wonder. via YouTube.
Шаблон:Cambodian cuisine Шаблон:Cambodia topics Шаблон:Asian topic Шаблон:Cuisines
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ 3,0 3,1 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ 5,0 5,1 5,2 5,3 5,4 5,5 5,6 5,7 5,8 5,9 Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Harvnb "Another version traveled from India, by way of Java, into the Khmer courts, and from there into the royal kitchens of Ayuttaya, Thailand, adding cardamom and tamarind to replace the turmeric. Cambodia and Thailand add lemongrass and galangal to the mixture;"
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ 9,0 9,1 9,2 9,3 9,4 Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Harvnb
- ↑ Шаблон:Harvnb
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite journal
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite journal
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ 15,0 15,1 Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ 19,0 19,1 19,2 Шаблон:Cite journal
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ Ошибка цитирования Неверный тег
<ref>; для сносокVu-Hongне указан текст - ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ Шаблон:Harvnb
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ 38,0 38,1 38,2 38,3 Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite journal
- ↑ 40,0 40,1 Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Harvnb
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ 50,0 50,1 Шаблон:Harvnb
- ↑ 51,0 51,1 51,2 51,3 Шаблон:Harvnb
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ 53,0 53,1 Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Harvnb
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ 58,0 58,1 58,2 58,3 Шаблон:Harvnb
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Harvnb
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Harvnb
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ 64,0 64,1 Шаблон:Harvnb
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite journal
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Harvnb
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite journal
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ 79,0 79,1 79,2 Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite journal
- ↑ 84,0 84,1 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ 85,0 85,1 Шаблон:Cite journal
- ↑ 86,0 86,1 Шаблон:Harvnb
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ 93,0 93,1 Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Harvnb
- ↑ 100,0 100,1 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ 105,0 105,1 Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ 118,0 118,1 118,2 Шаблон:Harvnb
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
_(2341905162).jpg){kind=link}
.jpg){kind=link}
.jpg){kind=link}
.jpg){kind=link}
.jpg){kind=link}
.jpg){kind=link}
