Английская Википедия:2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships
The 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 15th edition, were held in Innsbruck, Austria from 6 to 16 September 2018.[1] The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, paraclimbing, and combined events.
Medal winners overview
| Men's Lead | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete |
|---|---|---|---|
| Men's Speed | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete |
| Men's Bouldering | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete |
| Men's Combined | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete |
| Women's Lead | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete |
| Women's Speed | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete |
| Women's Bouldering | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete |
| Women's Combined | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete |
Lead
The lead competition was the first event held at the 2018 World Championships. The women's qualification took place on the opening day, 6 September, at the Kletterzentrum, and the men's was held the following day at the same location. Women's semi-final and final were held on 8 September and the respective men's competitions the next day both at the Olympiaworld.
Women
101 athletes attended the women's lead competition. In the final penultimate climber Jessica Pilz was the first to top the route. Janja Garnbret came out as the last climber and topped the route as well. As both climbers had the same first tiebreaker by virtue of having topped the semi-final route the ranking was decided by their time on the final route, which Pilz had climbed faster and thus was awarded the gold medal. Bronze went to Kim Ja-in.
| Rank | Name | Score |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jessica Pilz | Top |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Janja Garnbret | Top |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Kim Ja-in | 34+ |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Mei Kotake | 33+ |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Ashima Shiraishi | 32 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Anak Verhoeven | 31+ |
| 7 | Шаблон:Flagicon Mia Krampl | 31+ |
| 8 | Шаблон:Flagicon Akiyo Noguchi | 31+ |
| 9 | Шаблон:Flagicon Hannah Schubert | 31+ |
| 10 | Шаблон:Flagicon Laura Rogora | 24+ |
Men
124 athletes attended the men's lead competition. Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert achieved the same score (36+) on the final route. Innsbruck-born Schubert won the gold medal due to his better tie-breaker, having achieved the better score in the semi-final. The bronze medal went to Alex Megos (33.5)
| Rank | Name | Score |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jakob Schubert | 36+ |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Adam Ondra | 36+ |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Alex Megos | 33.5 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Meichi Narasaki | 31+ |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Domen Škofic | 29+ |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jakub Konečný | 29+ |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Tomoaki Takata | 29+ |
| 8 | Шаблон:Flagicon Sascha Lehmann | 23 |
| 9 | Шаблон:Flagicon Marcello Bombardi | 20+ |
| 10 | Шаблон:Flagicon Kai Harada | 16+ |
Speed
The speed competitions took place in the Olympiaworld with the qualification rounds and the finals both being held on 13 September.
Women
94 athletes competed in the women's speed climbing event. Aleksandra Rudzinska (7.56s) won the final of the speed competition over her Polish countrywoman Anna Brozek (7.91s). Mariia Krasavina won the bronze medal in the small final against Aleksandra Kalucka, who false started.[2]
Men
125 athletes competed in the men's speed competition. Reza Alipour (5.630s) won the final against Bassa Mawem (fell). In the small final Stanislav Kokorin (6.028s) won against QiXin Zhong (fell) and thus claimed the bronze medal.[3]
Bouldering
The bouldering event was held over four days. The qualifying took place at Kletterzentrum with the women's qualification held on 11 September and the men's on 12 September. Semi-finals and finals were held at the Olympiaworld on 14 September for the women and 15 September for the men.
Women
112 athletes attended the women's bouldering competition. In the bouldering final lead finalists Janja Garnbret, Akiyo Noguchi, and Jessica Pilz made another appearance. The World Cup bouldering seasonal winner Miho Nonaka, reigning world champion Petra Klingler, and Staša Gejo completed the final. Garnbret won gold over Noguchi and Gejo won bronze.
| Rank | Name | Score |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Janja Garnbret | 2T3z 7 7 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Akiyo Noguchi | 2T2z 4 3 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Staša Gejo | 1T2z 1 6 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jessica Pilz | 0T2z 0 4 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Miho Nonaka | 0T2z 0 4 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Petra Klingler | 0T0z 0 0 |
Men
150 athletes attended the men's bouldering competition, making it the largest individual event at the World Championship. Kai Harada (4T4z 7 6) won the Gold medal over Jongwon Chon (3T4z 9 10) and Gregor Vezonik (3T4z 9 17). The reigning champion, Tomoa Narasaki, and the World Cup seasonal winner, Jernej Kruder, missed the cut to the final.
| Rank | Name | Score |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Kai Harada | 4T4z 7 6 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jongwon Chon | 3T4z 9 10 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Gregor Vezonik | 3T4z 9 17 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Keita Watabe | 2T4z 6 10 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Kokoro Fujii | 2T2z 5 4 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Nathan Phillips | 1T2z 5 6 |
Combined
In the Combined competition the six most successful athletes of the previous competitions competed against each other in Speed, Bouldering and Lead. The athletes were selected by multiplying each athletes rank from the three individual competitions. The six climbers with the lowest scores determined by this method were invited to compete in the Combined final. In the final itself the athletes were again ranked by multiplying their rank in the Speed, Bouldering and Lead portion with a lower score leading to a better Combined rank.
The women's and men's combined final were both held at the Olympiaworld, the women's on 15 September and the men's on 16 September.
Women
| Rank | Name | Score | Speed | Bouldering | Lead |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Janja Garnbret | 5.00 | 5 | 1 (4T4z 7 7) | 1 (Top) |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Sol Sa | 12.00 | 1 | 2 (2T4z 9 18) | 6 (23+) |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jessica Pilz | 24.00 | 2 | 6 (1T2z 2 7) | 2 (Top) |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Akiyo Noguchi | 54.00 | 6 | 3 (2T2z 6 6) | 3 (31+) |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Miho Nonaka | 64.00 | 4 | 4 (2T2z 10 8) | 4 (26+) |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Petra Klingler | 75.00 | 3 | 5 (2T2z 12 12) | 5 (26+) |
Men
| Rank | Name | Score | Speed | Bouldering | Lead |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jakob Schubert | 4.00 | 2 | 1 (4T4z 8 4) | 2 (37+) |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Adam Ondra | 10.00 | 5 | 2 (4T4z 11 6) | 1 (42+) |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jan Hojer | 24.00 | 1 | 4 (3T4z 8 6) | 6 (26+) |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Kai Harada | 60.00 | 4 | 5 (3T3z 7 4) | 3 (34+) |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Tomoa Narasaki | 72.00 | 6 | 3 (3T4z 6 5) | 4 (34) |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Kokoro Fujii | 90.00 | 3 | 6 (2T4z 2 5) | 5 (30+) |
References
External links
Шаблон:World championships in 2018
- Английская Википедия
- Страницы с неработающими файловыми ссылками
- IFSC Climbing World Championships
- 2018 in sport climbing
- 2018 in Austrian sport
- September 2018 sports events in Europe
- International sports competitions hosted by Austria
- Страницы, где используется шаблон "Навигационная таблица/Телепорт"
- Страницы с телепортом
- Википедия
- Статья из Википедии
- Статья из Английской Википедии
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