Английская Википедия:2018 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Шаблон:Infobox sport climbing competition
The 2018 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 14 locations. There were 22 events: 7 bouldering, 7 lead, and 8 speed events. The season began on 13 April in Meiringen, Switzerland, and concluded on 28 October in Xiamen, China.
The top 3 in each competition received medals, and the overall winners were awarded trophies. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.
The winners for bouldering were Jernej Kruder and Miho Nonaka, for lead Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret, for speed Bassa Mawem and Anouck Jaubert, and for combined Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret, men and women respectively. The National Team for bouldering was Japan, for lead Austria, and for speed Russian Federation.
Highlights of the season
In bouldering, at the World Cup in Munich, Janja Garnbret of Slovenia flashed all boulders in the final round to take the win. Miho Nonaka and Akiyo Noguchi, both of Japan, were the only athletes who never missed a podium in all 7 bouldering competitions in the season.
In lead climbing, Janja Garnbret was the only athlete who never missed a podium in all 7 lead competitions in the season.
In speed climbing, at the first Speed World Cup of the season in Moscow, Anouck Jaubert of France matched the world record of 7.32 seconds set by Iuliia Kaplina of Russia at the 2017 World Games in Wrocław.[1] Then at the end of the season, French athletes, Bassa Mawem and Anouck Jaubert clinched the overall titles of the season for men and women respectively, making it double speed titles for France.
Changes from the previous season
For the 2018 season the IFSC changed the scoring method for its tournaments. Previously in bouldering, topped boulders were the deciding factor, followed as tiebreakers in decreasing order of importance: attempts to tops, bonus holds (renamed to zones), and attempts to bonus holds. The first and second tiebreakers switched places which means that the results were determined by tops, zones, attempts to tops, and attempts to zones.[2] Also athletes now need to demonstrate firm control of the two starting hand holds. Previously touching all four marked start points in any manner was deemed sufficient to start an attempt.[3]
Overview
Bouldering
Шаблон:Further An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There were seven competitions in the season, but only the best six attempts were counted. The national ranking was the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses were not counted.
Men
The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2018:[4]
| Rank | Name | Points | Munich | Vail | Hachioji | Tai'an | Chongqing | Moscow | Meiringen |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jernej Kruder | 442.00 | 2. 80.00 | 4. 55.00 | 8. (38.00) | 2. 80.00 | 6. 47.00 | 2. 80.00 | 1. 100.00 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Tomoa Narasaki | 400.00 | 9. 35.00 | 3. 65.00 | 2. 80.00 | 8. 40.00 | 11. (31.00) | 1. 100.00 | 2. 80.00 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Rei Sugimoto | 334.00 | 8. 40.00 | 1. 100.00 | 3. 65.00 | 4. 55.00 | 12. (28.00) | 10. 34.00 | 8. 40.00 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Alexey Rubtsov | 296.00 | 14. (23.00) | 9. 37.00 | 5. 51.00 | 12. 27.00 | 3. 65.00 | 5. 51.00 | 3. 65.00 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Gregor Vezonik | 280.00 | 1. 100.00 | 14. 24.00 | - | 3. 65.00 | 13. 26.00 | 3. 65.00 | - |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Kokoro Fujii | 260.00 | 7. 43.00 | 18. (16.00) | 16. 20.00 | 5. 51.00 | 1. 100.00 | 17. 18.00 | 12. 28.00 |
| 7 | Шаблон:Flagicon Chon Jong-won | 247.00 | - | 7. 43.00 | 4. 55.00 | 6. 47.00 | - | 4. 55.00 | 6. 47.00 |
| 8 | Шаблон:Flagicon Tomoaki Takata | 218.00 | 17. 18.00 | 6. 47.00 | 11. 31.00 | 10. 34.00 | 25. (5.00) | 9. 37.00 | 5. 51.00 |
| 9 | Шаблон:Flagicon Yuji Fujiwaki | 207.00 | 5. 51.00 | 8. 40.00 | 13. 26.00 | 11. 31.00 | 15. 22.00 | 28. (3.00) | 9. 37.00 |
| 9 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jakob Schubert | 207.00 | 3. 65.00 | - | - | 12. 27.00 | 4. 55.00 | 25. 5.00 | 4. 55.00 |
Women
The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2018:[5]
| Rank | Name | Points | Munich | Vail | Hachioji | Tai'an | Chongqing | Moscow | Meiringen |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Miho Nonaka | 500.00 | 2. 80.00 | 2. 80.00 | 2. 80.00 | 2. 80.00 | 2. 80.00 | 2. (80.00) | 1. 100.00 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Akiyo Noguchi | 495.00 | 3. 65.00 | 3. 65.00 | 1. 100.00 | 1. 100.00 | 1. 100.00 | 3. 65.00 | 3. (65.00) |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Fanny Gibert | 320.00 | 4. 55.00 | 4. 55.00 | 7. 43.00 | 3. 65.00 | 8. (40.00) | 5. 51.00 | 5. 51.00 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Janja Garnbret | 280.00 | 1. 100.00 | - | - | - | - | 1. 100.00 | 2. 80.00 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Katja Kadic | 246.00 | 5. 51.00 | 23. (7.00) | 11. 31.00 | 7. 43.00 | 6. 47.00 | 10. 34.00 | 8. 40.00 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Staša Gejo | 222.00 | - | - | 4. 55.00 | 4. 55.00 | 3. 65.00 | 15. 22.00 | 13. 25.00 |
| 7 | Шаблон:Flagicon Ekaterina Kipriianova | 210.00 | 6. 47.00 | - | 3. 65.00 | 10. 34.00 | 4. 55.00 | 21. 9.00 | - |
| 8 | Шаблон:Flagicon Futaba Ito | 179.00 | 7. 43.00 | - | 6. 47.00 | 13. 26.00 | 16. 20.00 | 8. 40.00 | 27. 3.00 |
| 9 | Шаблон:Flagicon Shauna Coxsey | 174.00 | - | 7. 43.00 | 9. 37.00 | - | - | 6. 47.00 | 6. 47.00 |
| 10 | Шаблон:Flagicon Alma Bestvater | 168.00 | 12. 28.00 | 6. 47.00 | 5. 51.00 | 23. 7.00 | 12. 28.00 | 23. 7.00 | - |
National Teams
The results of the ten most successful countries of the Bouldering World Cup 2018:[6]
Country names as used by the IFSC
| Rank | Nation | Points | Munich | Vail | Hachioji | Tai'an | Chongqing | Moscow | Meiringen |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon | 2269 | (337) | 387 | 419 | 363 | 371 | 362 | 367 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Slovenia | 1344 | 345 | (108) | 109 | 208 | 139 | 310 | 233 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagu | 823 | 163 | (91) | 102 | 111 | 197 | 93 | 157 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Austria | 735 | 173 | 61 | (22) | 110 | 154 | 64 | 173 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Russian Federation | 591 | 85 | (37) | 144 | 101 | 121 | 72 | 68 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Germany | 534 | 103 | 143 | 69 | 58 | 112 | 49 | (27) |
| 7 | Шаблон:Flagu | 503 | 15 | 284 | 86 | 57 | 9 | (3) | 52 |
| 8 | Шаблон:Flagicon Republic of Korea | 418 | 0 | 81 | 75 | 89 | - | 98 | 75 |
| 9 | Шаблон:Flagicon Great Britain | 366 | 21 | 74 | 101 | 30 | (19) | 47 | 93 |
| 10 | Шаблон:Flagicon Italy | 269 | 22 | (1) | 139 | 24 | 7 | 48 | 29 |
Lead
Шаблон:Further An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.
Men
6 best competition results were counted (not counting points in parentheses) for IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2018.[7]
| Rank | Name | Points | Xiamen | Wujiang | Kranj | Arco | Briançon | Chamonix | Villars |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jakob Schubert | 495.00 | 16. (20.00) | 2. 80.00 | 2. 80.00 | 1. 100.00 | 4. 55.00 | 2. 80.00 | 1. 100.00 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Stefano Ghisolfi | 466.00 | 2. 80.00 | 5. 51.00 | 1. 100.00 | 2. 80.00 | 5. (51.00) | 1. 100.00 | 4. 55.00 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Romain Desgranges | 356.00 | 6. 47.00 | 1. 100.00 | 20. 12.00 | 9. 37.00 | 2. 80.00 | 27. (4.00) | 2. 80.00 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Domen Škofic | 356.00 | 1. 100.00 | 19. (14.00) | 12. 28.00 | 3. 65.00 | 3. 65.00 | 4. 55.00 | 7. 43.00 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Min Hyun-bin | 251.00 | 3. 65.00 | 3. 65.00 | - | 8. 40.00 | 17. 18.00 | 18. 16.00 | 6. 47.00 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Alexander Megos | 230.00 | - | - | - | 12. 28.00 | 1. 100.00 | 3. 65.00 | 9. 37.00 |
| 7 | Шаблон:Flagicon Taisei Homma | 217.00 | 5. 51.00 | 8. 40.00 | 13. 26.00 | - | 9. 37.00 | 7. 43.00 | 16. 20.00 |
| 8 | Шаблон:Flagicon Sascha Lehmann | 206.00 | 8. 40.00 | 17. 18.00 | 25. (6.00) | 6. 47.00 | 7. 43.00 | 8. 40.00 | 17. 18.00 |
| 9 | Шаблон:Flagicon Yuki Hada | 192.00 | 7. 43.00 | 20. (12.00) | 7. 43.00 | 14. 24.00 | 12. 28.00 | 19. 14.00 | 8. 40.00 |
| 10 | Шаблон:Flagicon Francesco Vettorata | 168.00 | 15. 22.00 | 6. 47.00 | 6. 47.00 | 22. 9.00 | 20. 12.00 | 11. 31.00 | - |
Women
6 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2018.[8]
| Rank | Name | Points | Xiamen | Wujiang | Kranj | Arco | Briançon | Chamonix | Villars |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Janja Garnbret | 550.00 | 2. 80.00 | 1. 90.00 | 2. 80.00 | 1. 100.00 | 1. 100.00 | 2. (80.00) | 1. 100.00 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jessica Pilz | 505.00 | 1. 100.00 | 3. 65.00 | 4. (55.00) | 2. 80.00 | 2. 80.00 | 1. 100.00 | 2. 80.00 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jain Kim | 354.00 | 10. 34.00 | 1. 90.00 | 1. 100.00 | - | - | 3. 65.00 | 3. 65.00 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Manon Hily | 238.00 | 14. (24.00) | 8. 40.00 | 11. 31.00 | 6. 47.00 | 11. 31.00 | 10. 34.00 | 4. 55.00 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Mei Kotake | 228.00 | 5. 51.00 | 13. 26.00 | 9. 37.00 | 16. 20.00 | - | 5. 51.00 | 7. 43.00 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Tjasa Kalan | 224.00 | 7. 43.00 | 6. 45.00 | 12. 28.00 | 9. 37.00 | 28. (3.00) | 9. 37.00 | 9. 34.00 |
| 7 | Шаблон:Flagicon Hannah Schubert | 219.00 | 11. 31.00 | 9. 37.00 | 3. 65.00 | 19. (14.00) | 13. 26.00 | 8. 40.00 | 16. 20.00 |
| 8 | Шаблон:Flagicon Mina Markovič | 214.00 | 6. 47.00 | 22. (9.00) | 8. 40.00 | 10. 34.00 | 5. 51.00 | 12. 28.00 | 19. 14.00 |
| 8 | Шаблон:Flagicon Akiyo Noguchi | 214.00 | 3. 65.00 | 4. 55.00 | - | - | - | 7. 43.00 | 5. 51.00 |
| 10 | Шаблон:Flagicon Mia Krampl | 211.00 | 4. 55.00 | 6. 45.00 | 10. 34.00 | - | 7. 43.00 | 21. 10.00 | 14. 24.00 |
National Teams
For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted (not counting results in brackets).[9]
| Rank | Nation | Points | Xiamen | Wujiang | Kranj | Arco | Briançon | Chamonix | Villars |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Austria | 1528 | 230 | 269 | 264 | 250 | (218) | 232 | 283 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon | 1468 | 305 | 246 | 242 | 160 | (135) | 235 | 280 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Slovenia | 1428 | 282 | 194 | (182) | 238 | 266 | 210 | 238 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagu | 959 | 95 | 160 | (81) | 185 | 251 | 84 | 184 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Italy | 822 | 118 | 135 | 202 | 111 | 99 | 157 | (55) |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Republic of Korea | 652 | 107 | 177 | 107 | 41 | (27) | 91 | 129 |
| 7 | Шаблон:Flagicon Belgium | 382 | 80 | 55 | (22) | 105 | 65 | 47 | 30 |
| 8 | Шаблон:Flagu | 377 | 15 | 13 | (0) | 108 | 89 | 105 | 47 |
| 9 | Шаблон:Flagicon Suisse | 373 | 40 | (18) | 67 | 78 | 49 | 71 | 68 |
| 10 | Шаблон:Flagicon | 340 | - | - | 23 | 45 | 100 | 111 | 61 |
Speed
Шаблон:Further An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.
Men
7 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2018.[10]
| Rank | Name | Points | Xiamen | Wujiang | Arco | Chamonix | Villars | Tai'an | Chongqing | Moscow |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Bassa Mawem | 448.00 | 1. 100.00 | 9. 37.00 | 8. 40.00 | 3. 65.00 | 4. 55.00 | 1. 100.00 | 5. 51.00 | - |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Danyil Boldyrev | 437.00 | 14. 24.00 | 8. 40.00 | 1. 100.00 | 1. 100.00 | 3. 65.00 | 7. 43.00 | 3. 65.00 | - |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Dmitrii Timofeev | 429.00 | 4. 55.00 | 7. 43.00 | 4. 55.00 | 2. 80.00 | 11. 31.00 | 3. 65.00 | 1. 100.00 | 15. (22.00) |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Reza Alipour | 415.00 | 3. 65.00 | 3. 65.00 | 3. 65.00 | 9. 37.00 | 8. 40.00 | - | 7. 43.00 | 1. 100.00 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Aleksandr Shilov | 358.00 | 13. 26.00 | 4. 55.00 | 2. 80.00 | 5. 51.00 | 2. 80.00 | 10. 34.00 | 10. 32.00 | - |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Aspar Jaelolo | 341.00 | 2. 80.00 | 1. 100.00 | - | - | - | 4. 55.00 | 2. 80.00 | 13. 26.00 |
| 7 | Шаблон:Flagicon Aleksandr Shikov | 289.00 | - | 16. 20.00 | 9. 37.00 | 14. 24.00 | 1. 100.00 | 9. 37.00 | 6. 47.00 | 14. 24.00 |
| 8 | Шаблон:Flagicon Ludovico Fossali | 272.00 | 15. 22.00 | 2. 80.00 | 15. 22.00 | 6. 47.00 | 17. (18.00) | 15. 22.00 | 10. 32.00 | 6. 47.00 |
| 9 | Шаблон:Flagicon Li Jinxin | 254.00 | 7. 43.00 | 6. 47.00 | - | 10. 34.00 | 6. 47.00 | - | 4. 55.00 | 12. 28.00 |
| 10 | Шаблон:Flagicon Vladislav Deulin | 237.00 | 5. 51.00 | 13. 26.00 | 5. 51.00 | - | - | 21. 9.00 | 16. 20.00 | 2. 80.00 |
Women
7 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2018.[11]
| Rank | Name | Points | Xiamen | Wujiang | Arco | Chamonix | Villars | Tai'an | Chongqing | Moscow |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Anouck Jaubert | 550.00 | 3. 65.00 | 2. 80.00 | 3. 65.00 | 11. (31.00) | 1. 100.00 | 1. 100.00 | 8. 40.00 | 1. 100.00 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Aries Susanti Rahayu | 420.00 | 1. 100.00 | 1. 100.00 | - | - | - | 3. 65.00 | 1. 100.00 | 4. 55.00 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Iuliia Kaplina | 414.00 | 2. 80.00 | 3. 65.00 | 1. 100.00 | 13. 26.00 | 7. 43.00 | 16. 20.00 | 16. (20.00) | 2. 80.00 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Mariia Krasavina | 402.00 | 7. 43.00 | 4. 55.00 | 2. 80.00 | 3. 65.00 | 3. 65.00 | 7. 43.00 | 9. (37.00) | 5. 51.00 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Anna Brozek | 299.00 | 8. 40.00 | 9. 37.00 | 5. 51.00 | 7. 43.00 | 5. 51.00 | 4. 55.00 | 15. 22.00 | - |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Elena Timofeeva | 298.00 | 5. 51.00 | 20. (12.00) | 8. 40.00 | 16. 20.00 | 17. 18.00 | 14. 24.00 | 2. 80.00 | 3. 65.00 |
| 7 | Шаблон:Flagicon Anna Tsyganova | 292.00 | 16. 20.00 | 6. 47.00 | - | 2. 80.00 | - | 6. 47.00 | 4. 55.00 | 7. 43.00 |
| 8 | Шаблон:Flagicon Elena Remizova | 266.00 | 4. 55.00 | 18. 16.00 | 20. (12.00) | 6. 47.00 | 8. 40.00 | 9. 37.00 | 6. 47.00 | 14. 24.00 |
| 9 | Шаблон:Flagicon Sari Agustina | 239.00 | 9. 37.00 | 5. 51.00 | - | - | - | 2. 80.00 | 7. 43.00 | 12. 28.00 |
| 10 | Шаблон:Flagicon Victoire Andrier | 235.00 | 14. 24.00 | 12. 28.00 | 13. 26.00 | 14. 24.00 | 2. 80.00 | 15. 22.00 | 11. 31.00 | 20. (12.00) |
National Teams
For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted (not counting results in brackets).[12]
| Rank | Nation | Points | Xiamen | Wujiang | Arco | Chamonix | Villars | Tai'an | Chongqing | Moscow |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Russian Federation | 2448 | 318 | 316 | 406 | 349 | 359 | (280) | 369 | 331 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Indonesia | 1704 | 328 | 353 | - | - | - | 367 | 351 | 305 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagu | 1568 | 235 | 176 | 183 | 218 | 312 | 289 | 155 | (146) |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon People's Republic of China | 1120 | 191 | 164 | - | 189 | 210 | 115 | 192 | 59 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Poland | 876 | 106 | 47 | 200 | 234 | 137 | 82 | 70 | (44) |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Italy | 710 | 53 | 104 | 131 | 131 | 129 | (35) | 41 | 121 |
| 7 | Шаблон:Flagicon Ukraine | 688 | 48 | 93 | 135 | 106 | 122 | 89 | 95 | (25) |
| 8 | Шаблон:Flagicon Islamic Republic of Iran | 464 | 81 | 74 | 65 | 37 | 40 | - | 43 | 124 |
| 9 | Шаблон:Flagu | 169 | 0 | 6 | 81 | 18 | 37 | 26 | 1 | (0) |
| 10 | Шаблон:Flagicon Czech Republic | 167 | 18 | 16 | 43 | 22 | 17 | - | - | 51 |
Combined
The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Combined World Cup 2018:[13]
Men
| Rank | Name | Points |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jakob Schubert | 48 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Tomoa Narasaki | 54 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Kokoro Fujii | 960 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Yoshiyuki Ogata | 1440 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Sean McColl | 4860 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Nicolas Collin | 11520 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Kai Harada | 11520 |
| 8 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jan Hojer | 29160 |
| 9 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jernej Kruder | 35904 |
| 10 | Шаблон:Flagicon Fedir Samoilov | 40320 |
Women
| Rank | Name | Points |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Janja Garnbret | 36 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Akiyo Noguchi | 360 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Miho Nonaka | 450 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jessica Pilz | 1050 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Staša Gejo | 12960 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Anna Tsyganova | 15600 |
| 7 | Шаблон:Flagicon Futaba Ito | 18900 |
| 8 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jain Kim | 21600 |
| 8 | Шаблон:Flagicon Claire Buhrfeind | 32400 |
| 10 | Шаблон:Flagicon Fanny Gibert | 45360 |
Season podium table
Medal table
References
