Английская Википедия:2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships
The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 16th edition, were held in Hachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, and combined events. The paraclimbing event was held separately from 16 to 17 July in Briançon, France.[1][2] The combined event also served as an Olympic qualifying event for the 2020 Summer Olympics.[3][4]
Medal summary
Medalists
| Men's Lead | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete |
|---|---|---|---|
| Men's Bouldering | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete |
| Men's Speed | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete |
| Men's Combined | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete |
| Women's Lead | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete |
| Women's Bouldering | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete |
| Women's Speed | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete |
| Women's Combined | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete | Шаблон:Flagathlete |
Medal table
Qualification for the 2020 Summer Olympics
Шаблон:Main The seven best climbers of the combined event automatically qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics, where sport climbing will make its debut. There are seven spots available per gender, with a maximum of two spots per country.[3][5]
The qualifiers for the 2020 Summer Olympics from the 2019 World Championships Combined events are:
* Шаблон:Flagu, as the host nation, were guaranteed two quota places in each event. However, despite four climbers of each gender being in qualification positions in Hachioji, only two athletes of each gender could receive Olympic invitations. Ogata and Nonaka were later named after some debate as to whether the Japanese team could choose their two athletes, or whether the spots must go to the top two qualifying athletes.
Schedule
All times and dates use Japan Standard Time (UTC+9) [6]
| Q | Qualifications | SF | Semi-finals | F | Finals |
| B | Bouldering | L | Lead | S | Speed | C | Combined |
| August 2019 | 11th Sun |
12th Mon |
13th Tue |
14th Wed |
15th Thu |
16th Fri |
17th Sat |
18th Sun |
19th Mon |
20th Tue |
21st Wed | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Men | B | B | B | L | L | L | Rest day | S | S | C | C | |||
| Women | B | C | C | |||||||||||
Bouldering
Women
| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final[7] |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Janja Garnbret | 5t5z 5 5 | 3t4z 7 6 | 3T3z 8 8 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Akiyo Noguchi | 5t5z 9 9 | 2t4z 3 8 | 2T2z 4 2 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Shauna Coxsey | 3t5z 6 9 | 0t3z 0 6 | 2T2z 6 6 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Ievgeniia Kazbekova | 4t5z 14 14 | 1t2z 2 3 | 1T2z 3 4 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Miho Nonaka | 3t4z 4 8 | 0t3z 0 5 | 1T2z 5 6 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Nanako Kura | 5t5z 12 10 | 1t2z 1 5 | 0T1z 0 1 |
Men
| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final[8] |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Tomoa Narasaki | 4t4z 8 5 | 2t4z 2 4 | 2T4z 12 20 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jakob Schubert | 3t4z 5 6 | 1t4z 3 12 | 0T3z 0 10 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Yannick Flohé | 3t5z 5 14 | 2t4z 13 16 | 0T3z 0 13 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Kokoro Fujii | 4t4z 5 5 | 2t4z 5 6 | 0T3z 0 18 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Keita Dohi | 3t5z 6 8 | 2t4z 5 10 | 0T2z 0 9 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Adam Ondra | 5t5z 6 6 | 3t4z 11 7 | 0T0z 0 0 |
Lead
Women
| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final[9] | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Route 1 | Route 2 | Points | ||||||
| Score | Rank | Score | Rank | |||||
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Janja Garnbret | TOP | 1 | TOP | 1 | 1.22 | 38+ | 43+ |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Mia Krampl | 35+ | 6 | 32 | 7 | 7.35 | 34 | 39+ |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Ai Mori | 39+ | 2 | TOP | 1 | 1.73 | 34+ | 38+ |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Seo Chae-hyun | 34 | 8 | 38 | 4 | 5.66 | 32 | 38+ |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Akiyo Noguchi | 34+ | 7 | 33+ | 6 | 6.48 | 32 | 38+ |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jessica Pilz | 37+ | 3 | 31+ | 12 | 8.26 | 30+ | 35+ |
| 7 | Шаблон:Flagicon Vita Lukan | 28 | 21 | 31+ | 12 | 21.18 | 35 | 30+ |
| 8 | Шаблон:Flagicon Julia Chanourdie | 31+ | 10 | 31+ | 12 | 14.97 | 30+ | 30+ |
Men
| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final[10] | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Route 1 | Route 2 | Points | ||||||
| Score | Rank | Score | Rank | |||||
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Adam Ondra | TOP | 1 | 31 | 22 | 9.07 | 37+ | 34+ |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Alex Megos | TOP | 1 | 32+ | 7 | 6.06 | 40+ | 33+ |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jakob Schubert | TOP | 1 | TOP | 1 | 3.50 | 30+ | 33+ |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Tomoa Narasaki | TOP | 1 | TOP | 1 | 3.50 | 38 | 30 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Sean McColl | 31+ | 9 | TOP | 1 | 5.61 | 37+ | 30 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Stefano Ghisolfi | 28+ | 18 | TOP | 1 | 8.05 | 29+ | 29+ |
| 7 | Шаблон:Flagicon Kai Harada | 32+ | 8 | TOP | 1 | 5.29 | 31+ | 28+ |
| 8 | Шаблон:Flagicon Hannes Puman | 29+ | 11 | 32+ | 7 | 11.68 | 29+ | 27+ |
Speed
Women
Aleksandra Miroslaw won the women's speed final against Di Niu. In the small final Anouck Jaubert (7.534) won against YiLing Song (9.768) and secured the third place.[11] Шаблон:16TeamBracket
Men
Ludovico Fossali won the men's speed final against Jan Kriz. In the small final Stanislav Kokorin (5.835) won against Danyil Boldyrev (5.934) and secured the third place.[12] Шаблон:16TeamBracket
Combined
Climbers who participated in all three events of bouldering, lead, and speed would receive a combined ranking, and the top 20 of each gender would automatically qualify for the combined event.[6]
In combined competition, scoring is based on a multiplication formula, with points awarded by calculating the product of the three finishing ranks achieved in each discipline within the combined event. A competitor finishing with a first, a second and a sixth would thus be awarded 1 x 2 x 6 = 12 points, with the lowest scoring competitor winning.[13]
Women
| Rank | Name | Points | Speed | Bouldering | Lead | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rank | Time | Rank | Score | Rank | Holds | |||
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Janja Garnbret | 12.00 | 6 | 13.399 | 2 | 1T2z 1 2 | 1 | Top |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Akiyo Noguchi | 21.00 | 7 | 10.082 | 1 | 2T2z 3 3 | 3 | 40+ |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Shauna Coxsey | 42.00 | 2 | 9.225 | 3 | 1T2z 2 3 | 7 | 20 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Aleksandra Mirosław | 64.00 | 1 | 7.750 | 8 | 0T0z 0 0 | 8 | 10 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Miho Nonaka | 80.00 | 4 | 12.356 | 4 | 1T2z 3 4 | 5 | 23+ |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Ai Mori | 80.00 | 8 | 12.860 | 5 | 1T2z 3 7 | 2 | Top |
| 7 | Шаблон:Flagicon Futaba Ito | 120.00 | 5 | 8.655 | 6 | 0T2z 0 2 | 4 | 27 |
| 8 | Шаблон:Flagicon Petra Klingler | 126.00 | 3 | 8.901 | 7 | 0T2z 0 3 | 6 | 23+ |
Men
| Rank | Name | Points | Speed | Bouldering | Lead | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rank | Time | Rank | Score | Rank | Holds | |||
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Tomoa Narasaki | 4.00 | 2 | fall | 1 | 3T3z 4 3 | 2 | 30 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jakob Schubert | 35.00 | 7 | 7.208 | 5 | 0T3z 0 6 | 1 | Top |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Rishat Khaibullin | 40.00 | 1 | 5.915 | 8 | 0T1z 0 2 | 5 | 22 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Kai Harada | 54.00 | 3 | 6.348 | 6 | 0T2z 0 6 | 3 | 30 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Meichi Narasaki | 60.00 | 5 | 6.689 | 2 | 1T3z 1 4 | 6 | 21 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Kokoro Fujii | 72.00 | 6 | 9.438 | 3 | 1T3z 2 6 | 4 | 29+ |
| 7 | Шаблон:Flagicon Mickaël Mawem | 112.00 | 4 | 6.716 | 4 | 1T2z 3 4 | 7 | 20 |
| 8 | Шаблон:Flagicon Alexander Megos | 448.00 | 8 | 7.570 | 7 | 0T1z 0 1 | 8 | 0 |
See also
References
External links
Шаблон:Portal bar Шаблон:World championships in 2019
- Английская Википедия
- Страницы с неработающими файловыми ссылками
- IFSC Climbing World Championships
- 2019 in sport climbing
- 2019 in Japanese sport
- August 2019 sports events in Japan
- International sports competitions hosted by Japan
- Страницы, где используется шаблон "Навигационная таблица/Телепорт"
- Страницы с телепортом
- Википедия
- Статья из Википедии
- Статья из Английской Википедии
