Английская Википедия:2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup

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Шаблон:Infobox sport climbing competition

The 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 33rd edition of the international sport climbing competition series, held in seven locations. There are 11 events: four bouldering, five lead, and two speed events. The season began on 16 April in Meiringen, Switzerland with the first bouldering competition in the season, and concluded on 4 September in Kranj, Slovenia. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had initially scheduled 18 events concluding on 31 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of events in Xiamen and Wujiang in China, Jakarta in Indonesia and Seoul in South Korea.

This season was the first completed IFSC Climbing World Cup series since the 2019 edition, as the 2020 IFSC Climbing World Cup was limited to just one event, the Briançon Lead World Cup in August 2020, due to the pandemic. The opening event in Meiringen was the first Boulder World Cup since the 2019 season. The Boulder World Cup and the Boulder and Speed World Cup scheduled for 21–22 May and 28–30 May, respectively, in Salt Lake City, United States, were the first-ever consecutive IFSC World Cups held in the same city.[1]

The top 3 in each competition receive medals, and the overall winners are awarded trophies. At the end of the season an overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Season winners

Event First Second Third
Men's Lead Шаблон:Flagicon Stefano Ghisolfi 319 points Шаблон:Flagicon Sean Bailey 277 points Шаблон:Flagicon Masahiro Higuchi 263 points
Women's Lead Шаблон:Flagicon Janja Garnbret 300 points Шаблон:Flagicon Natalia Grossman 296 points Шаблон:Flagicon Laura Rogora 278 points
Men's Bouldering Шаблон:Flagicon Yoshiyuki Ogata 255 points Шаблон:Flagicon Kokoro Fujii 255 points Шаблон:Flagicon Adam Ondra 200 points
Women's Bouldering Шаблон:Flagicon Natalia Grossman 345 points Шаблон:Flagicon Janja Garnbret 280 points Шаблон:Flagicon Oriane Bertone 235 points
Men's Speed Шаблон:Flagicon Veddriq Leonardo 200 points Шаблон:Flagicon Kiromal Katibin 145 points Шаблон:Flagicon Marcin Dzieński 96 points
Women's Speed Шаблон:Flagicon Emma Hunt 131 points Шаблон:Flagicon Patrycja Chudziak 120 points Шаблон:Flagicon Aleksandra Mirosław
Шаблон:Flagicon Ekaterina Barashchuk 		100 points

Scheduling

In December 2020, the IFSC moved the 21–22 May Boulder World Cup from Munich, Germany to Salt Lake City, United States, and rescheduled the already existing Boulder & Speed World Cup in Salt Lake City from 11–13 June to 28–30 May, in order to minimize travel for athletes and staff.[2] In March, the federation also moved the Seoul, South Korea and Wujiang, China World Cups from April and May to October because of ongoing COVID-19 related restrictions in the respective countries.[3] In July, the Lead World Cup in Ljubljana, Slovenia was moved to Kranj, Slovenia, and rescheduled from 4–5 to 3–4 September.[4]

In August, the federation cancelled the World Cups in China: the 15–17 October Lead & Speed World Cup in Xiamen and the 22–24 October Boulder & Speed World Cup in Wujiang.[5][6] In September, the federation also cancelled the 30–31 October Speed World Cup in Jakarta, Indonesia, which had already been postponed from 23 to 24 October.[7][8] The following week, the IFSC also cancelled the Boulder and Speed World Cup in Seoul, originally scheduled for May and pushed back to October, due to rising COVID-19 cases in South Korea. The cancellation of the Jakarta and Seoul World Cups mean the bouldering and speed seasons concluded in June in Innsbruck and Villars in July, respectively.[9]

Competition highlights

Because of the cancellations caused by the COVID-19 pandemic, the opening World Cup event of 2021 Meiringen held 16–17 April 2021, was the first Boulder World Cup in 22 months, since Vail, Colorado in September 2019.,[10] and the first Climbing World Cup of any discipline since August 2020 in Briançon. Adam Ondra won the men's gold, his 20th career World Cup medal, with 3 tops in the final.[11] On the women's side, Slovenia's Janja Garnbret continued her winning run from her unbeaten 2019 bouldering campaign, winning the competition by topping all boulders with just four falls while 16-year-old French climber Oriane Bertone made her senior competition debut with a second-place finish behind Garnbret.[10]

Garnbret did not participate in the first of two World Cups in Salt Lake City held 21–22 May, bringing her streak of seven Boulder World Cup wins to an end. In her absence, Grossman won the gold, followed by Bertone, who again finished second, while Ondra repeated as the men's Boulder winner.[12] Grossman repeated as the winner in the second Salt Lake City event, held 28–30 May, this time becoming the first woman to defeat Garnbret, who finished second, since April 2018.[13] In the men's speed competition, Kiromal Katibin of Indonesia set a world record time of 5.258 seconds in qualifying, a record that was broken the same day by fellow Indonesian, Veddriq Leonardo, who hit the buzzer at 5.20 in the final run against Katibin.[13]

Garnbret won all three Lead World Cups she entered in 2021, winning a record 31st World Cup gold medal in Kranj in September and taking the overall season title.[14] On the men's side, Stefano Ghisolfi took the Lead season title, having won the event in Briançon in addition to two second places at the World Cups in Innsbruck and Chamonix, while Sean Bailey's two wins in Villars and Chamonix earned him second place in the overall Lead season ranking.

Broadcast incident

Austrian broadcaster Osterreichischer Rundfunk (ORF) issued an apology during the Innsbruck World Cup, after showing slow-motion, close-up footage that zoomed on the chalk handprints on Johanna Färber's bottom on the event's live feed on YouTube. IFSC removed the video from its YouTube channel and replaced it a version without the footage. Färber later posted a message on her Instagram, calling the incident "disrespectful and upsetting"[15]

Overview

No. Location Шаблон:Tooltip Шаблон:Tooltip Gold Silver Bronze
1 Шаблон:Flagicon Meiringen, Switzerland
April, 16–18 		B M Шаблон:Flagicon Adam Ondra 3T3z 10 7 Шаблон:Flagicon Yoshiyuki Ogata 2T4z 7 9 Шаблон:Flagicon Tomoaki Takata 1T4z 4 12
W Шаблон:Flagicon Janja Garnbret 4T4z 7 6 Шаблон:Flagicon Oriane Bertone 2T4z 8 10 Шаблон:Flagicon Natalia Grossman 2T4z 10 10
2 Шаблон:Flagicon Salt Lake City, United States
May, 21-22[Note 1] 		B M Шаблон:Flagicon Adam Ondra 4T4z 8 7 Шаблон:Flagicon Mejdi Schalck 3T4z 4 5 Шаблон:Flagicon Jakob Schubert 3T3z 4 4
W Шаблон:Flagicon Natalia Grossman 4T4z 15 14 Шаблон:Flagicon Oriane Bertone 3T4z 7 7 Шаблон:Flagicon Brooke Raboutou 3T3z 4 3
3 Шаблон:Flagicon Salt Lake City, United States
May, 28–30[Note 2] 		B M Шаблон:Flagicon Sean Bailey 2T4z 9 11 Шаблон:Flagicon Kokoro Fujii 1T4z 9 12 Шаблон:Flagicon Tomoa Narasaki 1T3z 1 3
W Шаблон:Flagicon Natalia Grossman 4T4z 4 4 Шаблон:Flagicon Janja Garnbret 4T4z 6 6 Шаблон:Flagicon Brooke Raboutou 3T4z 5 8
S M Шаблон:Flagicon Veddriq Leonardo 5.208 Шаблон:Flagicon Kiromal Katibin fall Шаблон:Flagicon Marcin Dzieński 5.842
W Шаблон:Flagicon Aleksandra Mirosław 7.382 Шаблон:Flagicon Emma Hunt 7.539 Шаблон:Flagicon Miho Nonaka 8.958
4 Шаблон:Flagicon Innsbruck, Austria
June, 23–26[Note 3] 		B M Шаблон:Flagicon Yoshiyuki Ogata 2T2z 7 7 Шаблон:Flagicon Tomoa Narasaki 1T3z 2 11 Шаблон:Flagicon Kokoro Fujii 1T1z 2 2
W Шаблон:Flagicon Janja Garnbret 3T3z 3 3 Шаблон:Flagicon Natalia Grossman 3T3z 9 9 Шаблон:Flagicon Staša Gejo 1T3z 2 6
L M Шаблон:Flagicon Jakob Schubert 47+ Шаблон:Flagicon Stefano Ghisolfi 47 Шаблон:Flagicon Sascha Lehman 38+
W Шаблон:Flagicon Janja Garnbret TOP Шаблон:Flagicon Brooke Raboutou 40 Шаблон:Flagicon Akiyo Noguchi 38
5 Шаблон:Flagicon Villars, Switzerland
July, 1–3 		L M Шаблон:Flagicon Sean Bailey 38 Шаблон:Flagicon Alexander Megos 35+ Шаблон:Flagicon Colin Duffy 31+
W Шаблон:Flagicon Janja Garnbret TOP Шаблон:Flagicon Laura Rogora TOP Шаблон:Flagicon Natalia Grossman 42+
S M Шаблон:Flagicon Veddriq Leonardo 5.329 Шаблон:Flagicon Dmitrii Timofeev 7.35 Шаблон:Flagicon Kiromal Katibin 5.306
W Шаблон:Flagicon Ekaterina Barashchuk 7.306 Шаблон:Flagicon Iuliia Kaplina 8.397 Шаблон:Flagicon Patrycja Chudziak 7.736
6 Шаблон:Flagicon Chamonix, France
July, 12–13 		L M Шаблон:Flagicon Sean Bailey 34+ Шаблон:Flagicon Stefano Ghisolfi 32 Шаблон:Flagicon Martin Stráník 32
W Шаблон:Flagicon Laura Rogora TOP Шаблон:Flagicon Natalia Grossman 41+ Шаблон:Flagicon Aleksandra Totkova 38+
7 Шаблон:Flagicon Briançon, France
July, 17–18 		L M Шаблон:Flagicon Stefano Ghisolfi 42+ Шаблон:Flagicon Dmitrii Fakirianov 39+ Шаблон:Flagicon Martin Stráník 37+
W Шаблон:Flagicon Eliška Adamovská 36 Шаблон:Flagicon Natalia Grossman 35+ Шаблон:Flagicon Vita Lukan 29
8 Шаблон:Flagicon Kranj, Slovenia
September, 3–4[Note 4] 		L M Шаблон:Flagicon Masahiro Higuchi 37 Шаблон:Flagicon Luka Potočar 31+ Шаблон:Flagicon Sebastian Halenke 31+
W Шаблон:Flagicon Janja Garnbret 49+ Шаблон:Flagicon Chaehyun Seo 46 Шаблон:Flagicon Natalia Grossman 41+

Шаблон:Reflist[16]

Bouldering

Шаблон:Main

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There were four competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2021:[17]

Rank Name Points Meiringen Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Innsbruck
1 Шаблон:Flagicon Yoshiyuki Ogata 255 2. 80 16. 20 4. 55 1. 100
2 Шаблон:Flagicon Kokoro Fujii 255 4. 55 4. 55 2. 80 3. 65
3 Шаблон:Flagicon Adam Ondra 200 1. 100 1. 100 ( — ) ( — )
4 Шаблон:Flagicon Sean Bailey 166 13. 26 8. 40 1. 100 47. 0
5 Шаблон:Flagicon Mejdi Schalck 157 12. 28 2. 80 9. 37 20. 12
6 Шаблон:Flagicon Tomoa Narasaki 145 ( — ) ( — ) 3. 65 2. 80
7 Шаблон:Flagicon Nathaniel Coleman 142 5. 51 21. 10 10. 34 6. 47
8 Шаблон:Flagicon Nicolai Užnik 132 14. 24 11. 31 15. 22 4. 55
9 Шаблон:Flagicon Alexander Megos 129 8. 40 9. 37 14. 24 12. 28
10 Шаблон:Flagicon Simon Lorenzi 123.5 29. 1.5 7. 43 12. 28 5. 51

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2021:[18]

Rank Name Points Meiringen Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Innsbruck
1 Шаблон:Flagicon Natalia Grossman 345 3. 65 1. 100 1. 100 2. 80
2 Шаблон:Flagicon Janja Garnbret 280 1. 100 ( — ) 2. 80 1. 100
3 Шаблон:Flagicon Oriane Bertone 235 2. 80 2. 80 4. 55 16. 20
4 Шаблон:Flagicon Brooke Raboutou 207 9. 37 3. 65 3. 65 8. 40
5 Шаблон:Flagicon Miho Nonaka 192 7. 43 4. 55 6. 47 6. 47
6 Шаблон:Flagicon Staša Gejo 173 13. 26 11. 31 5. 51 3. 65
7 Шаблон:Flagicon Katja Debevec 158 6. 47 8. 40 7. 43 12. 28
8 Шаблон:Flagicon Futaba Ito 135 ( — ) 7. 43 9. 37 4. 55
9 Шаблон:Flagicon Akiyo Noguchi 122 4. 55 ( — ) 18. 16 5. 51
10 Шаблон:Flagicon Mao Nakamura 92 ( — ) 10. 34 14. 24 10. 34

National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Bouldering World Cup 2021:[19]

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Name Points Meiringen Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Innsbruck
1 Шаблон:Flagicon Japan 1235.0 2. 298.0 3. 231.0 2. 308.0 1. 398.0
2 Шаблон:Flagu 1088.0 3. 209.0 1. 265.0 1. 390.0 2. 224.0
3 Шаблон:Flagicon Slovenia 798.0 1. 312.0 5. 148.0 4. 168.0 3. 170.0
4 Шаблон:Flagu 635.85 4. 156.6 2. 238.75 3. 177.0 8. 63.5
5 Шаблон:Flagicon Austria 498.25 7. 91.95 4. 204.0 10. 34.8 4. 167.5
6 Шаблон:Flagicon Germany 403.1 6. 93.5 6. 119.0 5. 108.0 5. 82.6
7 Шаблон:Flagicon Belgium 215.55 12. 22.0 8. 69.55 7. 51.0 6. 73.0
8 Шаблон:Flagicon Czech Republic 200.0 5. 100.0 7. 100.0 ( — ) ( — )
9 Шаблон:Flagicon Italy 190.6 11. 22.95 9. 66.0 9. 45.7 10. 55.95
10 Шаблон:Flagicon Serbia 173.0 10. 26.0 11. 31.0 7. 51.0 7. 65.0

* = Joint place with another athlete

Lead

Шаблон:Further The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There were five competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2021:[20]

Rank NAME Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Kranj
1 Шаблон:Flagicon Stefano Ghisolfi 319 2. 80 11. 31 2. 80 1. 100 12. 28
2 Шаблон:Flagicon Sean Bailey 277 ( — ) 1. 100 1. 100 4. 55 15. 22
3 Шаблон:Flagicon Masahiro Higuchi 263 4. 55 7. 43 9. 37 12. 28 1. 100
4 Шаблон:Flagicon Luka Potočar 212 7. 43 25. 6 7. 43 8. 40 2. 80
5 Шаблон:Flagicon Sascha Lehmann 204 3. 65 12. 28 4. 55 5. 51 26. 5
6 Шаблон:Flagicon Martin Stráník 192.87 12. 28 32. 0.87 3. 65 3. 65 10. 34
7 Шаблон:Flagicon Alberto Ginés López 169 5. 51 5. 51 14. 24 7. 43 ( — )
8 Шаблон:Flagicon Sebastian Halenke 160.0 57. 0 4. 55 15. 22 17. 18 3. 65
9 Шаблон:Flagicon Domen Škofic 135 17. 18 15. 22 25. 6 10. 34 4. 55
10 Шаблон:Flagicon Alexander Megos 127 6. 47 2. 80 ( — ) ( — ) ( — )

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2021:[21]

Rank NAME Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Kranj
1 Шаблон:Flagicon Janja Garnbret 300 1. 100 1. 100 ( — ) ( — ) 1. 100
2 Шаблон:Flagicon Natalia Grossman 296 25. 6 3. 65 2. 80 2. 80 3. 65
3 Шаблон:Flagicon Laura Rogora 278 7. 43 2. 80 1. 100 ( — ) 4. 55
4 Шаблон:Flagicon Vita Lukan 269 6. 47 5. 51 4. 55 3. 65 5. 51
5 Шаблон:Flagicon Lucka Rakovec 185 8. 40 7. 43 23. 8 6. 47 6. 47
6 Шаблон:Flagicon Aleksandra Totkova 168 18. 16 6. 47 3. 65 8. 40 ( — )
7 Шаблон:Flagicon Eliška Adamovská 162 12. 28 ( — ) 10. 34 1. 100 ( — )
8 Шаблон:Flagicon Momoko Abe 146 13. 26 4. 55 11. 31 25. 6 12. 28
9 Шаблон:Flagicon Natsuki Tanii 128 ( — ) ( — ) 5. 51 9. 37 8. 40
9 Шаблон:Flagicon Lana Skusek 128 16. 20 11. 31 43. 0 7. 43 10. 34

National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Lead World Cup 2021:[22]

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Nation Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Kranj
1 Шаблон:Flagicon Slovenia 1244.0 2. 274.0 2. 229.0 5. 135.0 1. 230.0 1. 376.0
2 Шаблон:Flagicon Japan 1041.0 1. 279.0 3. 193.0 4. 158.0 5. 134.0 2. 277.0
3 Шаблон:Flagu 905.95 5. 110.55 1. 269.0 2. 237.0 2. 200.5 5. 88.9
4 Шаблон:Flagicon Italy 796.8 3. 149.75 6. 132.85 1. 244.5 4. 164.0 4. 105.7
5 Шаблон:Flagu 593.95 8. 80.75 5. 147.2 3. 192.0 7. 87.0 6. 87.0
6 Шаблон:Flagicon Germany 547.2 10. 57.2 4. 159.0 7. 91.35 6. 95.85 3. 143.8
7 Шаблон:Flagicon Czech Republic 396.55 7. 96.0 19. 0.9 6. 99.85 3. 165.8 13. 34.0
8 Шаблон:Flagicon Austria 364.25 4. 117.65 7. 71.75 13. 35.5 9. 77.75 8. 61.6
9 Шаблон:Flagicon Switzerland 340.15 6. 96.3 9. 50.4 8. 86.8 10. 70.95 12. 35.7
10 Шаблон:Flagicon Russia 262.55 9. 57.75 11. 41.8 12. 40.0 8. 80.0 11. 43.0

Speed

Шаблон:Main

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There were two competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2021:[23]

Rank Name Points Salt Lake City Villars
1 Шаблон:Flagicon Veddriq Leonardo 200 1. 100 1. 100
2 Шаблон:Flagicon Kiromal Katibin 145 2. 80 3. 65
3 Шаблон:Flagicon Marcin Dzieński 96 3. 65 11. 31
4 Шаблон:Flagicon John Brosler 81 4. 55 13. 26
5 Шаблон:Flagicon Dmitrii Timofeev 80 — 2. 80
6 Шаблон:Flagicon Pierre Rebreyend 59 7. 43 18. 16
7 Шаблон:Flagicon Vladislav Deulin 55 — 4. 55
8 Шаблон:Flagicon Merritt Ernsberger 51 5. 51 —
8 Шаблон:Flagicon Mehdi Alipour 51 — 5. 51
10 Шаблон:Flagicon Yaroslav Tkach 50 8. 40 21. 10

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2021:[24]

Rank Name Points Salt Lake City Villars
1 Шаблон:Flagicon Emma Hunt 131 2. 80 5. 51
2 Шаблон:Flagicon Patrycja Chudziak 120 4. 55 3. 65
3 Шаблон:Flagicon Aleksandra Mirosław 100* 1. 100 —
3 Шаблон:Flagicon Ekaterina Barashchuk 100* — 1. 100
5 Шаблон:Flagicon Anouck Jaubert 94* 5. 51 7. 43
5 Шаблон:Flagicon Natalia Kalucka 94* 6. 47 6. 47
7 Шаблон:Flagicon Iuliia Kaplina 85 — 2. 80
8 Шаблон:Flagicon Capucine Viglione 74 8. 40 10. 34
9 Шаблон:Flagicon Miho Nonaka 65 3. 65 —
10 Шаблон:Flagicon Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi 55 — 4. 55

National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Speed World Cup 2021:[25]

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Nation Points Salt Lake City Villars
1 Шаблон:Flagicon Indonesia 503 4. 180.0 2. 323.0
2 Шаблон:Flagicon Poland 447 2. 267.0 3. 180.0
3 Шаблон:Flagu 396.8 1. 276.0 5. 120.8
4 Шаблон:Flagicon Russia 384 — 1. 384.0
5 Шаблон:Flagu 340 3. 207.0 4. 133.0
6 Шаблон:Flagicon 140.55 5. 139.55 15. 1.0
7 Шаблон:Flagicon Italy 132.5 7. 75.0 7. 57.5
8 Шаблон:Flagicon Ukraine 130 6. 95.0 10. 35.0
9 Шаблон:Flagicon Austria 101.8 8. 63.9 9. 37.9
10 Шаблон:Flagicon 85.85 9. 63.0 12. 22.85

* = Joint place with another athlete

Medal table

Шаблон:Medals table

See also

References

Шаблон:Reflist

Партнерские ресурсы
Криптовалюты
Магазины
Хостинг
Разное

  1. ↑ Шаблон:Cite press release
  2. ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
  3. ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
  4. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  5. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  6. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  7. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  8. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  9. ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
  10. ↑ 10,0 10,1 Шаблон:Cite news
  11. ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
  12. ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
  13. ↑ 13,0 13,1 Шаблон:Cite news
  14. ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
  15. ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
  16. ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
  17. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  18. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  19. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  20. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  21. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  22. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  23. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  24. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  25. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web


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