Английская Википедия:Akiyo Noguchi
Шаблон:Short description Шаблон:Infobox climber Шаблон:Nihongo is a Japanese professional rock climber who specializes in competition bouldering as well as outdoor bouldering and sport climbing.
She participates in both competition bouldering and competition lead climbing disciplines. She is known for winning the IFSC Climbing World Cup in Bouldering four times. In her home country, she won Bouldering Japan Cup nine times consecutively from 2005 to 2014, which no other Japanese athlete has been able to match. She retired from competition climbing after competing and winning a bronze medal in the 2020 Summer Olympics.[1][2][3]
Early life
Noguchi grew up on a cattle farm in the Ibaraki Prefecture. From a young age she would climb on buildings, trees and sometimes even on the cows. In 2000, when she was 11 years old, she tried a real climbing wall for the first time, during a holiday trip to Guam. Back at home she immediately joined a local climbing gym. Her father later built her a climbing wall in an old cattle barn on the farm.[4][5][6]
Competition climbing
In 2007, she started competing in the Bouldering World Cups, reaching the podium three times. In 2009, she won the World Cup in bouldering, over the previous year's champion Anna Stöhr.[7] Noguchi repeated as champion in 2010, 2014 and 2015.[8] In the 2011, 2012 and 2013 bouldering events at the World Cup she placed second.[8] She has also won the combined climbing title at the World Cup three times.[8]
Noguchi was also awarded the La Sportiva Competition Award in 2010, "for her victories and the positive spirit she exudes during competitions".[9]
In 2019 Akiyo Noguchi won a silver medal in the combined competition at the climbing World Championship which qualified her for the 2020 Summer Olympics. Noguchi had contemplated retirement from competition climbing as early as 2016, but when it was announced that climbing would become an Olympic sport in 2020 for the first time she decided to try and qualify for Olympics in her home country.[10] Noguchi attended her final IFSC Climbing World Cup in Innsbruck in June 2021, finishing a career of 169 World Cups and World Championships and 75 podium places.[11] On July 13, 2021, she published an autobiography.[12]
She finished her climbing career with a bronze medal at the 2020 Summer Olympics.[2][3]
Personal life
On December 25, 2021, Noguchi and fellow Japanese sport climber Tomoa Narasaki announced their marriage on their respective social media pages.[13]
Rankings
World Cup
| 2005 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019 | 2021 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 42 | 21 | 24 | 5 | 11 | 8 | 20 | 13 | 7 | 10 | 30 | 17 | 15 | 8 | 9 | 22 |
| Bouldering | - | - | 6 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 4 | 3 | 2 | 2 | 9 |
| Combined | - | - | 5 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 3 | 2 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 6 | 2 | 2 | - |
World Championships
| 2005 | 2007 | 2009 | 2011 | 2012 | 2014 | 2016 | 2018 | 2019 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 3 | 11 | 8 | - | - | 9 | - | 8 | 5 |
| Bouldering | 21 | 2 | 5 | 5 | 6 | 3 | 3 | 2 | 2 |
| Speed | - | - | 31 | - | - | - | - | 47 | 34 |
| Combined | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | 4 | 2 |
World Cup podiums
Lead
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2008 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2009 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2010 | 2 | 2 | ||
| 2011 | 0 | |||
| 2012 | 0 | |||
| 2013 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2014 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2015 | 0 | |||
| 2016 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2017 | 0 | |||
| 2018 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2019 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2021 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 0 | 4 | 6 | 10 |
Bouldering
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2007 | 2 | 1 | 3 | |
| 2008 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 3 |
| 2009 | 3 | 1 | 1 | 5 |
| 2010 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 4 |
| 2011 | 4 | 1 | 5 | |
| 2012 | 3 | 3 | ||
| 2013 | 3 | 2 | 5 | |
| 2014 | 4 | 1 | 2 | 7 |
| 2015 | 1 | 3 | 4 | |
| 2016 | 1 | 2 | 3 | |
| 2017 | 2 | 3 | 5 | |
| 2018 | 3 | 4 | 7 | |
| 2019 | 4 | 4 | ||
| Total | 21 | 20 | 17 | 58 |
Rock climbing
Redpointed routes
- Mind Control - Oliana (SPN) - December 10, 2013
- Liquid Finger - Joyama (JPN) - December 12, 2008
Boulder problems
- Aguni - Mizugaki (JPN) - November 2014.[15]
- A Maze of Death - Bishop (CAL) - 2016.[16]
- Euro Trash - Little Cottonwood Canyon (UT) - May 2022.[17]
- Monsterman SD - Jyougasaki (JPN) - February 2010.[18][19]
- Evilution Direct - Bishop (CAL) - 2016.[16]
See also
- Akiyo Noguchi in the Climbing World Cup
- IFSC Climbing World Cup
- IFSC Climbing World Championships
- IFSC Climbing Asian Championships
References
External links
- Шаблон:Official website
- Шаблон:IFSC profile
- Шаблон:World Games profile
- Шаблон:Olympics.com profile
- Шаблон:Olympedia
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ 2,0 2,1 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ 3,0 3,1 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ 8,0 8,1 8,2 8,3 Ошибка цитирования Неверный тег
<ref>; для сносокIFSC Worldcupsне указан текст - ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ 14,0 14,1 14,2 Ошибка цитирования Неверный тег
<ref>; для сносокIFSC profileне указан текст - ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ 16,0 16,1 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
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