Английская Википедия:Ali Sadpara

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Шаблон:Short description Шаблон:Use Pakistani English Шаблон:Use dmy dates Шаблон:Infobox person Muhammad Ali Sadpara (Шаблон:Lang-ur; Шаблон:Birth date – Шаблон:Text) was a Pakistani high-altitude mountaineer. He was part of the team (which included Italian alpinist Simone Moro and Spanish alpinist Alex Txikon) that completed the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat in 2016. Throughout his career, Sadpara successfully climbed a total of eight eight-thousanders, four of which he ascended in a single calendar year.

Sadpara, along with his 21-year-old son Sajid (who had also climbed K2 in 2019), teamed up with Icelandic mountaineer John Snorri Sigurjónsson and Chilean mountaineer Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto for a joint ascent of K2, and left the highest camp on the evening of 4 February 2021. Sajid was later forced to descend due to an oxygen regulator malfunction, leaving the other members of the team at the K2 Bottleneck, close to the summit. Sadpara, Sigurjónsson, and Prieto continued their ascent to K2's summit, but did not return by night as planned, and were declared missing on 5 February 2021. A rescue mission with two Pakistan Army helicopters was organized on 6 February 2021 to search for the team.

On 18 February 2021, Pakistani authorities announced that the three men were officially presumed dead, but the search for their remains would continue. Sadpara's family also declared him as presumably dead on the same day. On 26 July 2021, three bodies believed to be of the missing mountaineers were found on the slopes above Camp 4. Sadpara's body was found around Шаблон:Convert below the K2 Bottleneck. The bodies were found by a Madison Mountaineering Sherpa Team that was fixing ropes above the camp. Sajid then retrieved the bodies of the three missing climbers including his father.

Early life

Sadpara was born on 2 February 1976 in the village of Sadpara, located near Skardu in Gilgit−Baltistan, Pakistan. He was the youngest of eleven children, and eight of his siblings did not survive childhood. He married his wife, Fatima, when he was 19 and had his first son, Sajid, shortly afterwards; he had a total of three children. He completed his FA from a government college in Skardu and was a member of his college football team. He began his career as a high-altitude porter, serving as an assistant in mountain-climbing expeditions. Like most other porters, Sadpara traversed the rugged Baltoro Glacier in flip-flops and castoff gear.

Mountaineering experience

Файл:Ali Sadpara on the summit of K2.jpg

Sadpara on the summit of K2 in August 2018

Sadpara had successfully climbed eight of the 14 eight-thousanders on Earth. His first climb was Gasherbrum II, located in the Karakoram range.

List of successful mountaineering ascents

Mountain Name	Range	Country	Year of Ascent	Notes
Gasherbrum II	Karakoram	Pakistan / China	2006
Golden Peak	Karakoram	Pakistan	2006
Nanga Parbat	Himalayas	Pakistan	2008
Muztagh Ata	Pamir	China	2008
Nanga Parbat	Himalayas	Pakistan	2009
Gasherbrum I	Karakoram	Pakistan / China	2010
Nanga Parbat	Himalayas	Pakistan	2016	First winter ascent
Broad Peak	Karakoram	Pakistan / China	2017
Nanga Parbat	Himalayas	Pakistan	2017	First autumn ascent
Pumori	Himalayas	Nepal / China	2017
K2	Karakoram	Pakistan / China	2018
Lhotse	Himalayas	Nepal / China	2019
Makalu	Himalayas	Nepal / China	2019
Manaslu	Himalayas	Nepal	2019

In 2015, Sadpara's team attempted to scale Nanga Parbat during wintertime and were unsuccessful; the team attempted another winter ascent in 2016 and successfully summited its peak, resulting in the first-ever winter ascent of the mountain. Sadpara had successfully ascended Nanga Parbat four times in his mountaineering career. In January 2018, Sadpara teamed up with Шаблон:Ill, a Basque mountaineer, and unsuccessfully attempted to summit Mount Everest in Nepal during winter without any supplemental oxygen.

In June 2018, he was enlisted by French speed climber Шаблон:Ill to undertake a five-year program known as "Beyond Mount Everest". They planned to summit Nanga Parbat, K2 and Mount Everest in 2019, 2021, and 2022, respectively.

Tributes

• A climbing wall named after Sadpara was inaugurated at Qayyum Stadium, Peshawar.
• U.S. based NGO Paani Project built a well in honor of Sadpara.
• Pakistan International Airlines renamed its air safari in the honour of Ali Sadpara.
• A park in Korangi, Karachi was made in honour of Sadpara.
• Sadpara was honoured with a monument at MP Chowk in Somikot, Gilgit. The roundabout was also renamed to Sadpara Chowk.

See also

• List of solved missing person cases
• List of unsolved deaths