Английская Википедия:Anak Verhoeven
Шаблон:Short description Шаблон:Use dmy dates Шаблон:Infobox climber Anak Verhoeven (born 15 July 1996) is a Belgian rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and in competition lead climbing. She has repeatedly won the Belgian National Championship in lead climbing. In 2016, she ranked first on the IFSC World Ranking List. In 2017, she won both the World Games and IFSC Climbing European Championships.[1] Verhoeven is also one of the strongest female sport climbers, and in 2017, became the first-ever woman in history to establish a new Шаблон:Climbing grade route, Sweet Neuf.[2]
Early life
Verhoeven was born in Belgium and started to climb when she was 4 years old,[2] and both her parents were already climbers.[3][4]
Climbing career
Competition climbing
In 2012, at age 16, she started participating in the Lead Climbing World Cup, and by 2014, had become the Junior European Champion at the Championships in Edinburgh.[5] In 2015, she won the World Youth Championship in Italy, where she competed for the last time as a junior.[5] In the same year, she also participated in the Lead Climbing World Cup, where she ranked fourth.[5]
In 2016, she competed at the World Championships in Paris. During the finals, she managed to top the route but fellow competitor Janja Garnbret also topped and won gold due to countback.[5] In the same year, she also ranked second in the Lead Climbing World Cup.[5] Verhoeven ended the 2016 competition season as number 1 on the IFSC World Ranking List.[6] In 2017, she won both the World Games and IFSC Climbing European Championships.[1]
In late 2017, Verhoeven was forced to take time off from competition climbing with a serious elbow injury from which she did not fully recover until 2019.[7][2] In June 2021, Verhoeven announced that she was retiring from competition climbing to focus on her outdoor rock climbing projects.[5]
Rock climbing
In September 2017, she did the first free ascent (FFA) of the Шаблон:Climbing grade route Sang neuf, at Pierrot Beach in France, becoming the first-ever woman in history to do an FFA at that grade.[8][5] She then did the FFA of Sweet Neuf (links Sang Neuf with the 25-metere second pitch of Home Sweet Home), and proposed a Шаблон:Climbing grade rating, which in June 2019 was confirmed by Шаблон:Ill on repeating Sweet Neuf.[9] Her ascent of Sweef Neuf made her the second-ever woman in history to climb a 9a+ route (Margo Hayes was first), and the first-ever woman in history to do the FA of a 9a+ route.[3][10][11]
In December 2017, Verhoven did the FFA of the 9a/9a+ route Ciudad de Dios pa la Enmienda in Spain,[12] making her the first-ever female to do an FFA of a 9a, a 9a/+ or a 9a+ route (Angela Eiter did the first-ever female FFA of a 9b route).[5] In November 2019, she climbed her second 9a+, Joe Mama, in Spain.[13][5] In June 2020, Verhoeven made the FFA of Kraftio, a route that was bolted 15 years earlier but had repelled all attempts to scale it;[14] Verhoeven graded it 8c+/9a making it Belgium's hardest-ever sport climbing route, which she named in memory of the former Belgian climber Chloé Graftiaux.[15]
Personal life
Christian faith is an important part of Verhoeven's life,[16] which she said she inherited from her parents.[4][17]
Rankings
Climbing World Cup
| Discipline | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 34 | 9 | 4 | 4 | 2 | 3 | 11 |
| Combined | - | - | - | - | - | 7 | - |
Climbing World Championships
Youth[1]
| Discipline | 2010 Youth B |
2011 Youth B |
2012 Youth A |
2013 Youth A |
2015 Juniors |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 2 | 4 | 2 | 2 | 1 |
Adult[1]
| Discipline | 2012 | 2014 | 2016 | 2018 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 22 | 6 | 2 | 6 |
Climbing European Championships
Youth[1]
| Discipline | 2012 Youth A |
2013 Youth A |
2014 Juniors |
2015 Juniors |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 3 | 2 | 1 | 2 |
Adult[1]
| Discipline | 2013 | 2015 | 2017 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 19 | 4 | 1 |
Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup
Lead
| Season[1] | Category | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2011 | Youth B | 5 | 5 | ||
| 2012 | Youth A | 3 | 2 | 5 | |
| 2013 | Youth A | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2014 | Juniors | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 10 | 3 | 0 | 13 | |
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
Lead
| Season[1] | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2014 | 2 | 2 | 4 | |
| 2015 | 1 | 3 | 4 | |
| 2016 | 2 | 3 | 5 | |
| 2017 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 4 |
| 2018 | 2 | 2 | ||
| Total | 3 | 7 | 9 | 19 |
Notable ascents
Redpointed routes
- No Pain No Gain – Rodellar, Spain – 25 October 2022. First female ascent.[19][20]
- Joe Mam a – Oliana, Spain – 7 November 2019. First female ascent.[5]
- Sweet Neuf – Pierrot Beach, France – 11 September 2017 – First free ascent (FFA); second-ever woman in history to climb at Шаблон:Climbing grade, and first-ever woman in history to create (i.e. an FFA) a new Шаблон:Climbing grade graded sport climbing route.[3][5]
- Patxitxulo, in Oliana, Spain – 9 October 2021. First female ascent.[21]
- Ciudad de Dios pa la Enmienda – Santa Linya, Spain – 10 December 2017. First free ascent (FFA); first-ever woman in history to create (i.e. an FFA) a new Шаблон:Climbing grade graded sport climbing route.[5]
- Esclatamasters – Perles, Spain – January 2022 – Verhoeven climbed the route twice on the same day.[22]
- Joe Cita – Oliana, Spain – December, 2021.[7]
- La prophétie des grenouilles – Rocher des Brumes, France – July, 2021.[23]
- Sang Neuf – Pierrot Beach, France – 4 September 2017 – FFA, and first-ever creation of a new 9a route by a female in history.[3][5]
- Era Vella – Margalef, Spain – April, 2015. Verhoeven's first 9a.[3][16]
- Kraftio, Belgium – 4 June 2020 – First ascent and Belgium's hardest climbing route at the time; named in memory of Chloé Graftiaux.[15][14]
See also
- List of first ascents (sport climbing)
- Muriel Sarkany, Belgian female rock climber
- Josune Bereziartu, Spanish female rock climber
References
External links
- Belclimb.be profile
- Шаблон:World Games profile
- Шаблон:Instagram
- VIDEO:Anak Verhoeven's Journey Of Life, Family And Faith, PlanetMountain La Sportiva Living Legends Series (November 2022}
- ↑ 1,0 1,1 1,2 1,3 1,4 1,5 1,6 1,7 Ошибка цитирования Неверный тег
<ref>; для сносокIFSC profileне указан текст - ↑ 2,0 2,1 2,2 Ошибка цитирования Неверный тег
<ref>; для сносокNutanне указан текст - ↑ 3,0 3,1 3,2 3,3 3,4 Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ 4,0 4,1 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ 5,00 5,01 5,02 5,03 5,04 5,05 5,06 5,07 5,08 5,09 5,10 5,11 5,12 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Ошибка цитирования Неверный тег
<ref>; для сносокxzYXMне указан текст - ↑ 7,0 7,1 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Ошибка цитирования Неверный тег
<ref>; для сносокSangNeuf1не указан текст - ↑ Ошибка цитирования Неверный тег
<ref>; для сносокSweetNeuf3не указан текст - ↑ Ошибка цитирования Неверный тег
<ref>; для сносокSweetNeuf1не указан текст - ↑ Ошибка цитирования Неверный тег
<ref>; для сносокSweetNeuf2не указан текст - ↑ Ошибка цитирования Неверный тег
<ref>; для сносокCiudadDeDiosPaLaEnmieda1не указан текст - ↑ Ошибка цитирования Неверный тег
<ref>; для сносокJoeMamaне указан текст - ↑ 14,0 14,1 Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ 15,0 15,1 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ 16,0 16,1 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ Ошибка цитирования Неверный тег
<ref>; для сносокIFSC Worldcupsне указан текст - ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
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