Английская Википедия:Angie Payne
Шаблон:Short description Шаблон:Use mdy dates Шаблон:Infobox climber Angela Payne (born November 6, 1984) is an American rock climber specializing in bouldering, who won a clean sweep of the 2003-2004 US American Bouldering Series, and who in 2010, became the first-ever female in history to climb an Шаблон:Boulder grade boulder.[1]
Early years
Payne was born and raised in Cincinnati, Ohio.[2] She began indoor sport climbing at the age of 11,[3] and competed in a number of junior sport climbing competitions before switching to bouldering at age 15 to 16.[2][4] Payne says that her early idols were Lynn Hill, and as she began to focus on bouldering, Lisa Rands.[5] In 2003, she moved to Boulder to attend college at the University of Colorado Boulder to study veterinary science, graduating in 2010.[2][5]
Climbing career
Competition climbing
Aged 19, and in her first year in college, Payne won a clean sweep of all three of the American Bouldering Series 5, national championship events, (and thus became the overall ABS 5 champion),[6] and two Professional Climbers Association (PCA) competitions, (and also the overall PCA championship),[7] for the 2003-2004 boulder season.[2][3] Payne finished second overall (2012), and third overall (2006, 2007, and 2015) in the annual US Bouldering Open National Championships (what the ABS became post-2004).[2] Amongst other podiums and victories in individual competitions,(e.g. the 2006 SENDFEST in Salt Lake City,[8] and the 2010 Triple Crown Series at Horse Pens 40 in Steele, Alabama[9]),[10] in 2013, Payne won the Hueco Rock Rodeo at Hueco Tanks, in Texas.[11]
Bouldering
From 2004 to 2009, Payne completed the first female ascent of numerous bouldering problems graded Шаблон:Boulder grade to Шаблон:Boulder grade,[10][3] as well as making the third female ascent of the classic Midnight Lightning in 2004,[5] and earning an honourable mention in Climbing magazine's 2007 Шаблон:Ill for her climbs,[3][12] and winning her the 2007 Everest Award for Female Boulderer of the Year, at the 2007 Teva Mountain Games (Chris Sharma won the male award).[13] In early 2008, Payne climbed Chbalank in Hueco Tanks at V11/V12, and in September 2008, she climbed Dave Graham's European Human Being in the Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP) at "hard" Шаблон:Boulder grade and her first V12.[10][14] In February 2009, she climbed Atomic Playboy in Fontainebleau in France, another Шаблон:Boulder grade.[14] In June 2010, she climbed Clear Blue Skies, and made the first female ascent of No More Green Grasses, at Mount Blue Sky, both at grade Шаблон:Boulder grade.[10][15]
On August 17, 2010, Payne became the first-ever female in history to complete a confirmed Шаблон:Boulder grade boulder, with her ascent of The Automator in the RMNP (Anna Stöhr would complete the second-ever female ascent of an 8B (V13) just one month later).[2][4][16] She won a second honourable mention in Climbing magazine's 2010 Golden Piton Awards.[17] In 2012, Payne, rock climber Ethan Pringle, and mountainer Mike Libecki went to the Kangertittivatsiaq fjord in south east Greeland on a bouldering and climbing expedition.[18][19] In July 2014, Payne sent her second Шаблон:Boulder grade boulder, Freaks of the Industry, in Lower Chaos Canyon in the RMNP,[20] a project she had spent several seasons working on, and which she ranked as one of the achievements she was most proud of in her career.[2][21]
Rock climbing
In 2015, Payne branched into big wall climbing, ascending the 3,264-foot spire of Poumaka in French Polynesia, with Libecki,[4][22] which was captured in the film, Poumaka (2016).[23]
Personal life
In 2016, Payne was working for USA Climbing.[24] She is a keen amateur photographer.[24]
Payne has spoken openly about the prevalence of eating disorders in her sport,[10] and contributes prominently to a documentary on the subject called Light (2021), by Caroline Treadway.[25][26][27]
Bibliography
- Women Who Dare: North America's Most Inspiring Women Climbers (Chris Noble), 2013, Falcon Guides. page 173–185. Шаблон:ISBN.
- Better Bouldering, 2nd Edition, (John Sherman), 2011, Falcon Guides. Chapter 12: A Woman's Perspective (Angie Payne) Шаблон:ISBN.
Filmography
- Award winning documentary on eating disorders in climbing : Шаблон:Cite AV media
- Documentary on ascent of her ascent of Poumaka : Шаблон:Cite AV media
- Documentary on leading climbers featuring Payne : Шаблон:Cite AV media[28]
- Documentary on leading climbers featuring Payne : Шаблон:Cite AV media
See also
- History of rock climbing
- List of first ascents (sport climbing)
- Alex Puccio, American bouldering climber
- Alex Johnson, American bouldering climber
References
External links
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ 2,0 2,1 2,2 2,3 2,4 2,5 2,6 Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ 3,0 3,1 3,2 3,3 Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ 4,0 4,1 4,2 Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ 5,0 5,1 5,2 Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ 10,0 10,1 10,2 10,3 10,4 Ошибка цитирования Неверный тег
<ref>; для сносокtrainbetaне указан текст - ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ 14,0 14,1 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ 24,0 24,1 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
- Английская Википедия
- 1984 births
- Living people
- American rock climbers
- American female climbers
- American sportswomen
- 21st-century American women
- Sportspeople from Cincinnati
- University of Colorado Boulder alumni
- Boulder climbers
- American competition climbers
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