Английская Википедия:Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park
Шаблон:Short description Шаблон:EngvarB Шаблон:Use dmy dates Шаблон:Use New Zealand English Шаблон:Infobox protected area
Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park is in the central-west of the South Island of New Zealand. Aoraki / Mount Cook, New Zealand's highest mountain, and the eponymous village lie within the park. The area was gazetted as a national park in October 1953 and covers Шаблон:Convert. The national park consists of reserves that were established as early as 1887 to protect the area's significant landscape and vegetation. The park borders Westland Tai Poutini National Park both of the parks are managed by The Department of Conservation.
The park includes the Hooker Valley Track, which is the most popular walking track in the national park, and other popular activities include hunting, kayaking, mountaineering, and ski touring.
Even though most of the park is alpine terrain, it is easily accessible. The only road access into Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park is via State Highway 80. The highway starts 65 kilometres (40 mi) away near Twizel, the closest town to the park, and leads directly to Mount Cook Village, where the road ends. The village is situated within the park, however, it consists only of The Hermitage Hotel and motels, a visitor information centre, a primary school, and housing and amenities for the staff of the hotel and motels and other support personnel.
History
Early Māori history
In Māori mythology, Aoraki was one of the sons of Raki the Sky Father. One version of the legend states that Aoraki came down from heaven in a canoe with three of his brothers, Rakiroa, Rakirua and Rārakiroa, to visit his father Raki's new wife Papatūānuku, but the waka (canoe) overturned. The brothers climbed on to the overturned canoe, becoming the mountains Aoraki / Mount Cook, Rakiroa (Mount Dampier), Rakirua (Mount Teichelmann) and Rārakiroa (Mount Tasman). The waka itself became the Southern Alps.[1]Шаблон:Rp
Although there is no evidence of permanent or temporary Māori settlement within the national park, some artefacts and evidence of burnt vegetation such as tōtara have been found in the nearby Mackenzie Basin. These may be related to nomadic parties would spend months here gathering kai (food), mostly weka and tuna (eels), or fighting parties.[2][1]Шаблон:Rp[3]Шаблон:Rp[4] In the 1860s, explorer and geologist Julius von Haast had many conversations with Māori in Westland and Canterbury and formed the strong opinion that Māori had not crossed the Main Divide anywhere between Haast Pass near Lake Wānaka and the passes north of Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park that link the Hokitika and Rakaia Rivers. For example, a legend says that Raureka crossed from the West Coast via Browning Pass / Nōti Raureka to Geraldine, where she met Ngāi Tahu people.[5]
In 1896, mountaineer Arthur Harper wrote that Māori had a deep-seated fear of the mountains and preferred to stay lower down in the valleys.[6] However, Māori did have knowledge of the various features of high alpine areas, with special words for different types of ice and snow.[3]Шаблон:Rp Historian Johannes Carl Andersen believed it was possible that Māori had travelled over the Main Divide via Godley Glacier and Sealy Pass, which is at the northern boundary of Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park, to trade pounamu, but others dispute this.[3][7]
Later history
According to log entries made by explorer Abel Tasman, it is likely that he and his crew sighted Aoraki from the Tasman Sea near Barrytown.[3] In 1770 Captain James Cook, sailing along the West Coast of the South Island, sighted and named the Southern Alps. Aoraki was given the name Mount Cook by Captain Stokes of the survey ship HMS Acheron in 1851.[3] In 1998, the Ngāi Tahu Claims Settlement Act officially recognised the original name, renaming the mountain Aoraki / Mount Cook.[8]
Public awareness of the alpine regions around Aoraki / Mount Cook grew with the maps and reports produced by early European surveyors and explorers. Julius Haast explored the area at the head of Lakes Tekapo, Pukaki and Ōhau in 1862, collecting specimens, making maps and writing comprehensive reports on his observations, and, starting in 1867, surveyor Edward Sealy explored many glaciers. Many of the peaks, glaciers and other features of the region were named by or for these early explorers. Public appreciation of the mountains also grew as images of the area began to circulate. Artists painted pictures, and from 1867–1870 Sealy photographed the Mount Cook region.[3]
Following the settlement between Ngāi Tahu and the Crown in 1998, a number of South Island place names were amended to incorporate their Māori names by the Ngāi Tahu Claims Settlement Act 1998. The name of the mountain and village was officially changed from Mount Cook to Aoraki / Mount Cook to incorporate its historic Māori name.Шаблон:Efn[9]
Early mountaineering
In 1873 the then Governor of New Zealand, Sir George Bowen, visited the Mount Cook region, thereby raising the profile of the area.[10]
In 1882 Rev. William Spotswood Green made the first notable attempt to climb Aoraki / Mount Cook. Green travelled to New Zealand with two Swiss guides to make the climb, after seeing Sealy's photographs of the mountain at an exhibition in London.[3] The three men got very close to the summit before being forced to turn back.[11] At a dinner in his honour after the climb, Green noted that climbing would be easier if huts were built in the mountains, as the huts would provide shelter and a place to store provisions, lightening the load of climbers. He also suggested that New Zealand set up an Alpine Club,[12] leading to establishment of the New Zealand Alpine Club in 1891.[13]
After several attempts, the first successful ascent of Aoraki / Mount Cook was made on Christmas Day 1894, by Tom Fyfe, Jack Clarke, and George Graham.[14]
In 1910 Freda Du Faur became the first woman to climb Aoraki / Mount Cook,[15] and in 1913 her climbing party made the first ascents of the Footstool and Mt Sefton.
The first fatal accident occurred in 1914, when three men were caught in avalanche on Linda Glacier.[16]
Geography
Topography
The park stretches for about Шаблон:Convert along the southwest–northeast direction of the Southern Alps, covering Шаблон:Convert on the south-eastern side of the main spine of the Alps.[17]
Of New Zealand's 20 peaks over Шаблон:Convert, all except Mount Aspiring / Tititea lie within the park.[18] These include New Zealand's highest mountain, Aoraki / Mount Cook, at Шаблон:Convert.[19] Other prominent peaks include Mount Tasman, Mount Hicks, Mount Sefton and Mount Elie de Beaumont.
The valleys of the Tasman, Hooker, and Godley glaciers are the only entrances into the alpine territory that lie below Шаблон:Convert.
Erosion
The mountains of the Southern Alps in general are young, less than ten million years old, and are still building. Uplift in the region of the national park is at the rate of Шаблон:Cvt per year. It's estimated that approximately Шаблон:Cvt of uplift has occurred, however the rate of uplift has been countered by erosion.[20] In December 1991, an avalanche of 10 million cubic metres of snow and rock caused 10 metres to be lost off the top of Aoraki / Mount Cook.[21][22] Two decades of erosion of the ice cap exposed after this collapse reduced the height by another 30 m to 3,724 m, as revealed by new GPS data from a University of Otago climbing expedition in November 2013.[23][24]
Glaciers
At the end of the most recent ice age, around 13,000 years ago,[25] the Mueller Glacier, Hooker Glacier, and Haupapa / Tasman Glacier were all tributaries of a much larger glacier covering all of Hooker Valley and Tasman Valley in hundreds of metres of ice and reaching as far as the extent of today's Lake Pukaki,[26] up to Шаблон:Convert south of Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park. As the glacier retreated, it filled the hollowed-out valleys with rocks and gravel, leaving behind the flat-bottomed valleys seen today.[27]
Glaciers cover 40% of the park area, notably the Tasman Glacier in the Tasman Valley east of Aoraki / Mount Cook.[28] Eight of the twelve largest glaciers in New Zealand lie within Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park: the Tasman Glacier, Hooker Glacier, Murchison Glacier and Mueller Glacier are in the area surrounding Aoraki / Mount Cook, while further north in the park lie the Godley Glacier, Classen Glacier, Grey Glacier and Maud Glacier. All of these glaciers terminate at proglacial lakes formed in recent decades due to a sustained period of shrinking.[29] Tasman Lake and Hooker Lake are easily accessible via walking tracks and are the only two of these lakes that have official names. At an area of Шаблон:Cvt, Tasman Lake is the largest of the proglacial lakes and hosts boat trips for tourists.[30][31]
The park borders Westland Tai Poutini National Park along the Main Divide. Together they form part of Te Wahipounamu South Westland World Heritage Site, recognised for its significant natural values.[28]
Climate
Temperatures in Mount Cook Village range from Шаблон:Convert to Шаблон:Convert, and typically fall just over Шаблон:Cvt for every Шаблон:Convert of altitude.[32]
Rainfall is similarly variable, with the driest months receiving around Шаблон:Convert precipitation per month, but recorded maxima of Шаблон:Convert in one day and Шаблон:Convert in a single month. Snow falls on about 21 days per year.[32]
During the coldest months of the year, Mueller Glacier Lake, Hooker Lake, and Tasman Lake usually freeze over at least partially.[33]
The weather conditions in the park, in particular at higher altitudes, can be unpredictable and change rapidly.[34][35]
Geology
Шаблон:Expand section Aoraki / Mount Cook lies in the centre of the distinctive Alpine Fault, a Шаблон:Convert long active fault in the Southern Alps which has ruptured four times in the last 900 years.[36][37] This alpine fault is responsible for the uplift of Aoraki / Mount Cook.[38]
Ecology
Flora
More than 400 species of plants make up the vegetation in Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park, which include more than 100 introduced plant species such as the colourful Russell lupin, wild cherry, snowberries, and wilding pines.[39][40] Under normal circumstances, forest grows to about Шаблон:Convert, however, most parts of the park are either at higher altitudes above the tree line or in the proglacial valleys such as the Hooker Valley and Tasman Valley, where the rocky soil of the valley floors and moraine walls do not support forest growth. As a result, the only pockets of forest and native bush in the park are along the southern edge of the Hooker Valley and the lower slopes of Sealy Range.[41]
The plant life in the majority of the park consists mostly of alpine plants. Between Шаблон:Convert and in the valleys, the vegetation is predominantly snow tussock grassland, as well as golden speargrass, large mountain daisies/tikumu (Celmisia semicordata, Celmisia coriacea), and Mount Cook lily, (Ranunculus lyallii), the largest buttercup in the world.[28] All of these plants flower in the warmer months from November to February – early in the season in the valley floors, and late at higher altitudes. At the highest rocks of Aoraki / Mount Cook, around 14 species of lichen have been found.[42]
The native vegetation continues to be under threat by introduced plant species ranging from non-native trees through to lupins, broom and non-native grasses. These are mostly contained in the valley floors of the Tasman and Hooker Valley, since they are the most accessible parts of the park.[43]
Tutu, a poisonous plant, flourishes throughout the Hooker Valley during summer.[44]
Fauna
There are about 35 species of birds in the park including the kea, the only alpine parrot, Australasian Harrier (kāhu), Silvereye (tauhou) a small omnivorous passerine bird, New Zealand falcon (kārearea), and the well-camouflaged pipit (pīhoihoi).[45][46] The tiny New Zealand rock wren (pīwauwau), a threatened species, is the only permanent resident high on the mountains.[45] It is unrelated to the rock wren of North America. Small insectivores such as the rifleman (tītipounamu) and the fantail (pīwakawaka) live in the low forest and scrub, along with small numbers of two larger birds, the kererū and morepork (ruru). Introduced species such as finches and sparrows live throughout the bush near Mount Cook Village. The black stilt (kakī), rarest wading bird in the world, lives in the braided riverbed of the Tasman Valley.[28]
The park is home to many invertebrates, including large dragonflies, crickets, grasshoppers, 223 recorded moth species and 7 native butterflies.[47] A black alpine wētā, also known as the Mount Cook flea is found above the snowline. The jewelled gecko lives in the park but is rarely seen.[28] Introduced chamois, elk, Himalayan tahr and red deer can be hunted.[48]
Conservation and human interaction
Settlement within the park
Mount Cook Village
The Hermitage Hotel complex is the focal point of Mount Cook Village, the main point of access to the mountains of Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park. The village contains housing and amenities for the staff of the hotel and motels and other support personnel.[49] The village has a public school, opened in 1960, which is the only school in New Zealand situated inside a national park.[50]
Hermitage Hotel
Шаблон:Main In 1884, Frank Huddleston opened accommodation he called 'The Hermitage' at a site near the Mueller Glacier, to cater for climbing parties visiting the area.[51] The hotel was later expanded, but was severely damaged by two floods in 1913.[52][53] The Hermitage was rebuilt on a more elevated site, opening in 1914, but that building was destroyed by fire in 1957.[54] It was rebuilt quickly, opening in 1958, and since then has been altered and expanded several times as tourism increased.
Tourism
Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park attracted over 1 million tourists in 2019, and about 1800–2000 people a day walk the Hooker Valley Track in peak-season.[55]
Access
By land
Access to the national park began as a rough track from Twizel along the western shore of Lake Pukaki to the Hermitage. The road, now known as State Highway 80, was improved over time. In the 1960s a major hydroelectric scheme was underway in the Mackenzie Basin. This required Lake Pukaki to be raised by Шаблон:Convert, which would submerge parts of the gravel road to the Hermitage, so a new sealed road was built and completed in 1975.[56] The highway ends at Mount Cook Village, with a connecting road leading to the White Horse Hill camping ground. Another small road leads to a car park near Tasman Lake, the start of a short walking track and the Ball Hut Route.[57] A pedestrian swing bridge was built over the Hooker River in the Hooker Valley in 1911, providing easier access to climbing routes.[58]
Rodolph Wigley's Mount Cook Motor Co was formed in 1906 to provide passenger and mail services to the Hermitage from the railhead at Fairlie.[59][60] The first coaches held between five and nine passengers and the journey from Fairlie to the Hermitage took around seven hours, not including a meal break.[61] The service evolved into Mount Cook Landlines, which transported visitors to Mount Cook Village from Queenstown and Christchurch until 1989.[62] In 1989, the new owner of Mount Cook Landlines, Tourism Holdings Limited, scrapped the coach services and the Mount Cook brand.[59] As of 2024, coach services to Mount Cook Village are run by InterCity and other smaller operators.
By air
In 1920, following his success running a bus service to Mount Cook Village, Rodolph Wigley raised the idea of providing flights from Timaru and Queenstown to Mount Cook.[63] A test flight took place in May 1920, with a plane circling Aoraki / Mount Cook but not landing, but nothing came of the idea.[64] The first landing in the Mount Cook area took place on 4 December 1934. Squadron-Leader T. W. White and a passenger flew a Spartan from Timaru, landing at Birch Hill Flat, Шаблон:Convert southeast of Mount Cook Village.[65] Wigley's Mount Cook Tourist Company then built a small airfield, Mount Cook Aerodrome, at Birch Hill Flat. The aerodrome opened on 3 May 1936.[66][65]
Mount Cook Airline began scheduled passenger flights to the area in 1961.[67] In December 2019, Mount Cook Airline was merged into Air New Zealand and ceased operations.[68]
The Mount Cook company developed retractable skis for small aircraft, providing direct access to snowfields for skiers and sightseers.[69] The first ski plane flight using retractable skis took place in 1955.[70] Mount Cook Ski Planes and Helicopters is now an independently operated company, offering landing on the Tasman Glacier. Helicopters also provide access to the mountains for hunters.[71]
Activities
The park is popular for hiking, hunting, kayaking, mountaineering, skiing, ski touring, and tramping.[72] The Department of Conservation administers activities in the park, including the White Horse Hill camping ground.[73] Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park also attracts astrophotographers and stargazers due to low light pollution in the park.[74][75]
Mount Cook Village is the start of several walking tracks ranging from easy, such as the popular Hooker Valley Track which typically takes three hours to complete and is Шаблон:Convert long (return), to more difficult.[76][77] Some other tracks offer guided walking tours, and the nearby Tasman Lake hosts boat trips and kayaking for tourists.[78][79] The park contains close to twenty huts, mostly in alpine terrain. The huts range from basic shelters to serviced huts, with the most accessible being Mueller Hut, which can be reached from Mount Cook Village within 4 hours.[35]
A visitor centre in the village features interpretation exhibits about the area's natural environment and history as well as an artwork collection.[80]
Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park is the starting point of the Alps to Ocean Cycle Trail to Oamaru. The Шаблон:Cvt cycle trail was constructed from 2010 onwards by the New Zealand Cycle Trail project. Шаблон:As of the cycle trail still includes Шаблон:Cvt along public roads.[81]
Mountaineering
The spectacular peaks of the Aoraki / Mount Cook region have attracted climbers from all over the world for almost 150 years. The dramatic nature of these mountains provides a rare challenge. The combination of heavy glaciation, tremendous vertical scale and unpredictable weather means that they are not readily won. To climb successfully here requires skill, fitness, patience, and a great respect for the mountains. Mountaineering on the Aoraki / Mount Cook massif is a hazardous activity.[82] In 1982, Mark Inglis was trapped in a snow cave for two weeks.[83]
Other mountaineering routes include crossing the Aroarokaehe Range via the Copland Pass, the Mount Cook Range via the Ball Pass, and routes crossing the Tasman Saddle further north. All of these routes still require significant alpine mountaineering experience.
On the opposite side of the Hooker Valley, Mt Ollivier was Sir Edmund Hillary's first major climb, in 1939, and since the establishment of a tramping track to Mueller Hut, not far below the summit, is now one of the easiest accessible mountains in the park.[84]
Another mountain popular for mountaineers of intermediate skills is Sebastopol, the closest mountain to Mount Cook Village. At Шаблон:Convert in height, it is only Шаблон:Convert above Mount Cook Village, with the lower half of the ascent following the Red Tarns tramping track.[85] Sebastopol offers one of a few view points taking in both the Hooker Valley and the Tasman Valley.
There are 15 mountain huts in Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park for the use of climbers and hunters. Twelve of these are managed by the Department of Conservation, two belong to the New Zealand Deerstalkers Association and one, Caroline Hut, is privately owned by an alpine guiding company.[86][87] Another hut, Red Stag Hut, sits just outside the national park in the adjoining Te Kahui Kaupeka Conservation Park.[88] Hooker Hut, built in 1910, is the oldest surviving hut in the national park. It has been moved three times as the Hooker Glacier receded, then was removed and restored before being reassembled in a new location in 2021.[89] The oldest hut still in its original location is Sefton Bivouac, built in 1917.[90]
International Dark Sky Reserve
In June 2012, an area of Шаблон:Convert including Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park and the Mackenzie Basin was declared the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve by the International Dark-Sky Association. At the time of the designation in 2012, the reserve was the largest in the world, and the only reserve of its type in the Southern Hemisphere.[91][92][93]
In popular culture
Mulan (2020 film),[94] Vertical Limit,[95] The Lord of the Rings (film series), and The Chronicles of Narnia (film series), were partly filmed in the national park.[96] Minas Tirith, the capital of Gondor in the fantasy adventure film The Lord of the Rings, was filmed approximately Шаблон:Convert away from the village.[97]
See also
- Aoraki / Mount Cook
- Forest parks of New Zealand
- List of mountains of New Zealand by height
- National parks of New Zealand
- Protected areas of New Zealand
- Southern Alps
References
External links
Шаблон:Commons category Шаблон:Wikivoyage
- Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park
- Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park Education Resource 2010
- Mt Cook: Does reaching summit outweigh risks?
Шаблон:National Parks of New Zealand
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