Artist and designer William Morris is credited with the resurrection of the techniques of freehand surface embroidery based on English embroidery styles of the Middle Ages through the eighteenth century, developing the retro-style which would be termed art needlework. Art needlework emphasized delicate shading in satin stitch with silk thread accompanied by a number of novelty stitches, in sharp contrast with the counted-thread technique of the brightly colored Berlin wool workneedlepoint craze of the mid-nineteenth century.
In embroidery as in other crafts, Morris was anxious to encourage self-expression via handcrafts. His shop Morris & Co. sold both finished custom embroideries and kits in the new style, along with vegetable dyedsilks in which to work them. Art needlework was considered an appropriate style for decorating artistic dress.
The Royal School of Art Needlework (now Royal School of Needlework) was founded as a charity in 1872 under the patronage of Princess Helena to provide apprenticeships in the new/old style. Morris's daughter May, an accomplished needlewoman and designer in her own right, was active in the School from its inception.
The Leek Embroidery Society and the Leek School of Art Embroidery, both founded by embroideress Elizabeth Wardle, were established in 1879 and around 1881, respectively.[2][3]
↑"Artichoke" hanging designed by William Morris for Ada Phoebe Godman in 1877 and subsequently available from Morris and Company. Linda Parry, William Morris Textiles, New York, Viking Press, 1983, p. 20-21