Английская Википедия:Ba tầm
Шаблон:Short descriptionШаблон:Copy editШаблон:Italic title Шаблон:Infobox Chinese
Nón Ba tầm is a traditional Vietnamese flat palm hat.[1][2][3] It should be distinguished from other traditional Vietnamese headwear such as the conical nón lá and the coiled turban, khăn vấn.
Nón Ba tầm is traditionally worn by women in Vietnam, as an accessory to finer garments, as opposed to the more functional clothes associated with farm work.
The hats worn by shamans, traditionally had silver ornaments hanging from silk strings around the brim.[4]
Origin of the hat
According to documents from the French at the end of the nineteenth century, Ba tầm were translated into French as, Le chapeau de trois tầm (literally "the hat of three tầm),[5][6] tầm (尋) was an ancient unit of measurement used in China, Korea, Japan, and Vietnam. The measurement is equivalent to an arm span. According to Vũ trung tùy bút, the Ba tầm hat is a combination of styles of dậu, mền giải, and viên cơ hats. The hat is attested in literature since the 18th century, but its origin could be a lot older than that.
- Nón mền giải[7] (Also referred to as Ngoan Xác lạp 黿殼笠 and Tam Giang lạp 三江笠) – was worn by the elderly during the Revival Lê dynasty, which then fell of fashion.
- Nón vỏ bứa (Also referred to as Toan Bì lạp, 酸皮笠) – was worn by the poor, is a simplified version of the nón mền giải, where it was made smaller. During the Nguyễn dynasty, it was referred to in literature as Thủy Thủ lạp (水手笠).Шаблон:Efn
- Nón dậu (Cổ châu lạp, 古洲笠) – was worn by elderly relatives of mandarins, middle-class men and women, scholars and commoners in the capital. The top is pointed and has a flat rim with a few beams of thao thread, a type of silk.
- Viên cơ lạp (圓箕笠) appeared in Hoan Châu province (Modern-day Nghệ An province). During the Revival Lê dynasty, it was worn by soldiers during the Arrogant Soldiers Rebellion (Loạn kiêu binh) during the Later Lê dynasty, with a long design, it almost like a winnowing basket (nia). During the Nguyễn dynasty, it was redesigned as a small hat, similar to the nón thúng, but with a square bevel, hats smaller than nón Ba tầm called a nón Nghệ (referred to in French, Le chapeau de Nghệ-an) was typically worn by women. Nón thúng (Chapeau en forme de panier) was worn by men and women, and had bronze tapered design when compared to Nghệ hats.[7]
Construction of the hat
Ba tầm hats are covered with palm leaves or gồi leaves, shaped like a parasol or mushroom ears, flat top, cone diameter about 70–80 cm, the brim 10–12 cm higher or more. The inside of the hat is attached with a funnel-shaped rim called a khua or khùa (摳) to reinforce the hat on the user's head.[8] In addition, people often tie the colorful thao thread to the brim of the hat to make a charm. Presently, nón quai thao is often used to refer to a nón Ba tầm, it was because of an improved design by writer Kim Lân and his son to be more compact and suitable for artistic activities, this type of hat was later adopted by female singers Quan họ where it became more popular.[9]
Cultural significance
| Ca dao
(Vietnamese folk poetry) |
Quan họ | Chiếc nón quai thao by Anh Thơ | Du xuân by An Thuyên | Tơ hồng by Nhất Sinh |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chưa chồng nón thúng quai thao, Chồng rồi nón rách quai nào thì quai. Chưa chồng yếm thắm đeo hoa, Chồng rồi hai vú bỏ ra tày giành. |
Trèo lên quán dốc ngồi gốc í a cây đa, Chẻ tre đan nón, kìa nón í a ba tằm Vải nâu may áo, kìa áo ới viền năm tà |
Tua óng tơ ngà tha thướt gió, Nhưng dép cong nghiêm bước thẳng đường, |
Du xuân du xuân í a Du xuân du xuân í a Thoáng áo tứ thân la đà trong gió Cứ hát lới lơ phách nhịp thương nhớ Đường xuân yếm đào đã hẹn cùng tình í a |
Anh đến quê em nơi đây có dòng sông Cầu, Ngày Hội Lim em mặc áo the,
chân đi guốc mộc, |
Gallery
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Men and women wearing Nghệ hats at a nhà trò (performing arts centre) in Quảng Nam, 1793
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Men and women wearing Nghệ hats at a beach in Danang, 1793
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Woman wearing Nghệ hats during explorer Jean Dupuis' voyage.
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Women wearing nón Ba tầm watch the execution of a pirate chief by the Hoàn Kiếm Lake, 1886
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Sketch of a Tonkinese wearing nón Ba tầm, 1899
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A Tonkin girl wearing nón Ba tầm.
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A Tonkinese girl wearing nón Ba tầm, photographed by Charles-Édouard Hocquard in Hanoi, 1885
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Vương Thị Phượng wears a nón Ba tầm in photo taken in the early 20th century.
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Two farmers Tonkin wearing thúng hats, 1919
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Tày woman wearing a thúng hat, 1931
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A girl wearing Áo ngũ thân and a Lòng chảo hat in Thăng Long Cổ trấn
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Picture of nón quai thao.
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Nón quai thao with traditional male and female dresses for Quan họ.
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A Quan họ female artist holding a nón quai thao at Lim festival, 2010
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A Quan họ ensemble holding quai thao hats duiring a performance at Đô temple, 2014
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Dancers perform with quai thao hats.
See also
References
Шаблон:ReflistШаблон:NotelistШаблон:Historical clothing
- ↑ Đi tìm chiếc nón cổ của người Việt – Ngọc An // Báo Thanh Niên, 27.06.2016, 06:11 (GMT+7)
- ↑ Kirsten W. Endres, Andrea Lauser – Engaging the Spirit World: Popular Beliefs and Practices in Modern Vietnam 2012 "The Ten Girls were each allocated one two-storied house, three sets of clothes, one box of adornments, one flat palm hat (nón quai thao) and one traveling case in which to store everything."
- ↑ Minh Hương Hội An quê tôi: hồi ký, tạp văn, giai thoại 2000 "Nào nón lá, nón Gò Găng, nón thúng (nón quai thao), nón nỉ, nón cối, giay, dép, guốc, (") Cúp tóc Phong trào hô hào cắt lóc ngắn."
- ↑ Maurice M. Durand – Technique et panthéon des médiums viêtnamiens (Đông) 1959 "Chapeau de femme avec des attaches en argent (chiến) où sont suspendus des cordons de soie, giày thao. C'est le nón quai thao."
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ 7,0 7,1 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
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