Английская Википедия:Bijia
Шаблон:Short descriptionШаблон:Infobox Chinese
Bijia (Шаблон:Lang-zh) is a long, sleeveless jacket of Mongol origins which has opened side slits.[1]Шаблон:Rp The bijia started to be worn in the Yuan dynasty when it was designed by Empress Chabi.[2] The bijia eventually became one of the most typical form of women's clothing item in the Ming dynasty[3] and in the Qing dynasty.[4] It is also a type of hanfu which has been revived in present days.[5]
History
Yuan dynasty
The bijia originated from a long-length Mongol vest.[1]Шаблон:Rp[6] According to the Yuan shi, the invention of bijiia is attributed to Empress Chabi during the Yuan dynasty.[2][7] Empress Chabi designed the bijia so that it would be a convenient form of attire while riding horses and shooting arrows.[2] The front region of the bijia designed by Empress Chabi was made of 1-piece of fabric, and its back region was twice longer than the front region.[2][7][8] It was collarless and sleeveless, and there were two loop straps which attached to it.[2][7][8] It also had no lapels.[8] The bijia was first worn by the Yuan dynasty emperor but it later became popular among commoners.[9]
Ming dynasty
After the fall of the Yuan dynasty, Mongol fashion of the Yuan dynasty continued to influence some styles of clothing worn in the Ming dynasty; this included the persisting usage of bijia.[1]Шаблон:Rp[6] The bijia became a type of women clothing in the Ming dynasty, and by the middle of the Ming dynasty it had become a favourite form of dress for women, especially young women.[9]
In the Ming dynasty, the bijia was long in length and would reach below the knee level.[3] It was embroidered on woven textile and a jade ornament would be attached at the front of the bijia as a front closure.[3] Bijia created an illusion of slenderness, which women in the Ming dynasty sought after.[3]
Qing dynasty
In the Qing dynasty, Han Chinese women were allowed to continue the Ming dynasty clothing customs.[4] The bijia remained very popular in Qing dynasty,[9] and it was one of the most common forms of female clothing worn in the 17th and 18th century.[4]
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Woman wearing bijia (right). Woman wearing beizi (left). From the painting Amorous Meeting in a Room Interior, late 18th century Qing Dynasty.
21st Century
In the 21st century, the bijia regained popularity and is widely worn as a hanfu item.[10]
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Waist-length modern bijia (green), 2013.
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Woman wearing a long, yellow bijia (middle), 2020.
Influences and derivatives
Theatrical beixin
Шаблон:See alsoThe Chinese opera beixin (Шаблон:Lang-zh), also known as kanjian, majia, and beida, were sleeveless vests which originated from both the Ming dynasty's long-length bijia worn by women from the lower-middle class and from the Qing dynasty's majia (Шаблон:Lang-zh),[11] a type of vest which were worn by the Manchu.[12]
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Theatrical beixin for a female Buddhist priest (front view).
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Theatrical beixin for a female Buddhist priest (back view).
Majia
The majia (Шаблон:Lang-zh), the sleeveless riding vest of the Qing dynasty, evolved from the bijia which was popular among women during the Ming and Qing dynasties.[9][13]
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Sleeveless Jacket with Flowering Vine Pattern and Bands (front), late 19th–early 20th century
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Sleeveless Jacket with Flowering Vine Pattern and Bands (back), late 19th–early 20th century
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Sleeveless Jacket, 19th century.
Similar looking garments
- Banbi
- Song dynasty beixin - Sleeveless and translucent vests, which became a popular female fashion in the Southern Song.[14]Шаблон:Rp
- Dahu
- Zhaojia (罩甲)
- Baeja - A sleeveless or very short-sleeved vest in Korea
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Beixin, Song dynasty
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Zhaojia, Ming dynasty
See also
References
Шаблон:ReflistШаблон:Types of Han Chinese clothing
- ↑ 1,0 1,1 1,2 Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ 2,0 2,1 2,2 2,3 2,4 Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ 3,0 3,1 3,2 3,3 Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ 4,0 4,1 4,2 Шаблон:Cite journal
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ 6,0 6,1 Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ 7,0 7,1 7,2 Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ 8,0 8,1 8,2 Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ 9,0 9,1 9,2 9,3 Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite thesis
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
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