Английская Википедия:Bijia

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Шаблон:Short descriptionШаблон:Infobox Chinese

Bijia (Шаблон:Lang-zh) is a long, sleeveless jacket of Mongol origins which has opened side slits.[1]Шаблон:Rp The bijia started to be worn in the Yuan dynasty when it was designed by Empress Chabi.[2] The bijia eventually became one of the most typical form of women's clothing item in the Ming dynasty[3] and in the Qing dynasty.[4] It is also a type of hanfu which has been revived in present days.[5]

History

Yuan dynasty

The bijia originated from a long-length Mongol vest.[1]Шаблон:Rp[6] According to the Yuan shi, the invention of bijiia is attributed to Empress Chabi during the Yuan dynasty.[2][7] Empress Chabi designed the bijia so that it would be a convenient form of attire while riding horses and shooting arrows.[2] The front region of the bijia designed by Empress Chabi was made of 1-piece of fabric, and its back region was twice longer than the front region.[2][7][8] It was collarless and sleeveless, and there were two loop straps which attached to it.[2][7][8] It also had no lapels.[8] The bijia was first worn by the Yuan dynasty emperor but it later became popular among commoners.[9]

Ming dynasty

After the fall of the Yuan dynasty, Mongol fashion of the Yuan dynasty continued to influence some styles of clothing worn in the Ming dynasty; this included the persisting usage of bijia.[1]Шаблон:Rp[6] The bijia became a type of women clothing in the Ming dynasty, and by the middle of the Ming dynasty it had become a favourite form of dress for women, especially young women.[9]

In the Ming dynasty, the bijia was long in length and would reach below the knee level.[3] It was embroidered on woven textile and a jade ornament would be attached at the front of the bijia as a front closure.[3] Bijia created an illusion of slenderness, which women in the Ming dynasty sought after.[3]

Qing dynasty

In the Qing dynasty, Han Chinese women were allowed to continue the Ming dynasty clothing customs.[4] The bijia remained very popular in Qing dynasty,[9] and it was one of the most common forms of female clothing worn in the 17th and 18th century.[4]

21st Century

In the 21st century, the bijia regained popularity and is widely worn as a hanfu item.[10]

Influences and derivatives

Theatrical beixin

Шаблон:See alsoThe Chinese opera beixin (Шаблон:Lang-zh), also known as kanjian, majia, and beida, were sleeveless vests which originated from both the Ming dynasty's long-length bijia worn by women from the lower-middle class and from the Qing dynasty's majia (Шаблон:Lang-zh),[11] a type of vest which were worn by the Manchu.[12]

Majia

Шаблон:See also

The majia (Шаблон:Lang-zh), the sleeveless riding vest of the Qing dynasty, evolved from the bijia which was popular among women during the Ming and Qing dynasties.[9][13]

Similar looking garments

  • Banbi
  • Song dynasty beixin - Sleeveless and translucent vests, which became a popular female fashion in the Southern Song.[14]Шаблон:Rp
  • Dahu
  • Zhaojia (罩甲)
  • Baeja - A sleeveless or very short-sleeved vest in Korea

See also

References

Шаблон:ReflistШаблон:Types of Han Chinese clothing