Английская Википедия:Bouldering at the 2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Шаблон:Infobox sports competition event
The 2017 season of the IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 19th season of the competition. Bouldering competitions were being held at seven stops of the IFSC Climbing World Cup. The bouldering season began on April 7 at the World Cup in Meiringen, and concluded on 19 August at the World Cup in Munich. At each stop a qualifying was held on the first day, and the semi-final and final rounds were conducted on the second day of the competition. The winners were awarded trophies, and the best three finishers received medals. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. Shauna Coxsey won the women's World Cup and Jongwon Chon won the men's World Cup.
Changes from the previous season
For the 2017 season the IFSC changed the timing method for the finals of World Cup tournaments. Beginning in 2017 any attempt would only be considered successful if the athlete had reached the top and demonstrated control over it within the four minute time limit. (four minutes dead rule) Previously boulderers had four minutes per boulder, but a boulderer was allowed to finish their attempt if they had successfully started the boulder within the four minute limit. (four minutes plus rule) [1]
Streaming controversy
Before the start of the 2017 season the IFSC announced that they had signed a three-year contract with the streaming platform FloSports,[2] which would have made the streams of climbing World Cups available only to paying customers instead of being freely accessible. This led to an online petition asking the IFSC to change their deal with FloSports, which was signed by more than 12,000 people,[3] and an open letter by the Athletes' Commission. The Commission voiced their frustration over the way the IFSC had previously communicated with the community at large, and "asked the athletes to withdraw cooperation with the livestream media until changes are made".[3] On the next day the IFSC apologized for having made a mistake, and announced that the deal with FloSports had not actually been signed yet despite the earlier press release, and would not be concluded.[4]
Overall ranking
Men
| Rank | Name | Points |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jongwon Chon | 453 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Tomoa Narasaki | 404 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Alexey Rubtsov | 399 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Keita Watabe | 372 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Kokoro Fujii | 327 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Rei Sugimoto | 278 |
| 7 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jan Hojer | 235 |
| 8 | Шаблон:Flagicon Yoshiyuki Ogata | 232 |
| 9 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jernej Kruder | 201 |
| 10 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jakob Schubert | 186 |
Women
| Rank | Name | Points |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Shauna Coxsey | 560 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Janja Garnbret | 470 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Akiyo Noguchi | 381 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Miho Nonaka | 377 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Petra Klingler | 290 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Staša Gejo | 234 |
| 7 | Шаблон:Flagicon Katja Kadic | 227 |
| 8 | Шаблон:Flagicon Michaela Tracy | 190 |
| 9 | Шаблон:Flagicon Fanny Gibert | 187 |
| 10 | Шаблон:Flagicon Aya Onoe | 165 |
National teams
Country names as used by the IFSC
| Rank | Name | Points |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Japan | 2118 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Great Britain | 929 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Slovenia | 927 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Germany | 736 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon France | 715 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Republic of Korea | 694 |
| 7 | Шаблон:Flagicon Russian Federation | 608 |
| 8 | Шаблон:Flagicon Austria | 548 |
| 8 | Шаблон:Flagicon Suisse | 368 |
| 10 | Шаблон:Flagicon United States of America | 340 |
Meiringen, Switzerland (7–8 April)
Women
78 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen. Shauna Coxsey (4t10 4b8) won the competition in front of Katharina Saurwein (2t6 3b13).[5]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Shauna Coxsey | 4t10 4b8 | 100 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Katharina Saurwein | 2t6 3b13 | 80 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Miho Nonaka | 1t2 3b6 | 65 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Stasa Gejo | 1t3 3b3 | 55 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Petra Klingler | 1t3 2b3 | 51 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Janja Garnbret | 0t 2b4 | 47 |
Men
115 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen. Kokoro Fujii (1t1 3b6) won the competition in front of Alexey Rubtsov (1t2 2b8).[5]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Kokoro Fujii | 1t1 3b6 | 100 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Alexey Rubtsov | 1t2 2b8 | 80 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Keita Watabe | 1t3 2b12 | 65 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Rei Sugimoto | 1t5 3b7 | 55 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jernej Kruder | 0t 2b3 | 51 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon David Firnenburg | 0t 1b4 | 47 |
Chongqing, China (22–23 April)
Women
42 athletes attended the World Cup in Chongqing. Janja Garnbret (4t11 4b7) won the competition in front of Shauna Coxsey (3t4 4b5).[6]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Janja Garnbret | 4t11 4b7 | 100 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Shauna Coxsey | 3t4 4b5 | 80 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Akiyo Noguchi | 3t13 4b13 | 65 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Anna Stöhr | 1t3 3b6 | 55 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Alannah Yip | 1t3 3b8 | 51 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Stasa Gejo | 1t4 3b7 | 47 |
Men
77 athletes attended the World Cup in Chongqing. Jongwon Chon (4t6 4b5) won the competition in front of Tomoa Narasaki (2t2 3b3), who claimed the second place over Alexey Rubtsov by virtue of his better semi-final score.[6]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jongwon Chon | 4t6 4b5 | 100 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Tomoa Narasaki | 2t2 3b3 | 80 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Alexey Rubtsov | 2t2 3b3 | 65 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Keita Watabe | 2t3 3b3 | 55 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Kai Harada | 1t1 3b4 | 51 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Manuel Cornu | 1t4 3b8 | 47 |
Nanjing, China (29–30 April)
Women
50 athletes attended the World Cup in Nanjing. Shauna Coxsey (4t12 4b12) won her second World Cup competition of the season. At this point Coxsey and Nanjing runner-up Janja Garnbret (3t7 3b7) were the only two athletes to have made the final of all World Cups of the season.[7]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Shauna Coxsey | 4t12 4b12 | 100 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Janja Garnbret | 3t7 3b7 | 80 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Miho Nonaka | 2t6 4b15 | 65 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jain Kim | 1t5 2b11 | 55 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Aya Onoe | 0t 3b8 | 51 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Mei Kotake | 0t 1b3 | 47 |
Men
83 athletes attended the World Cup in Nanjing. Keita Watabe (4t9 4b8), the only athlete in all World Cup finals of the season at this point, won his first World Cup competition. Tomoa Narasaki (3t6 4b7) came in second.[7]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Keita Watabe | 4t9 4b8 | 100 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Tomoa Narasaki | 3t6 4b7 | 80 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jernej Kruder | 2t5 3b5 | 65 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jongwon Chon | 1t1 3b8 | 55 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Manuel Cornu | 0t 3b3 | 51 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Rei Sugimoto | 0t 3b4 | 47 |
Hachioji, Japan (6–7 May)
Women
54 athletes attended the World Cup in Hachiōji, Tokyo. Janja Garnbret (4t5 4b4) won her second World Cup of the season. Akiyo Noguchi (4t9 4b9) won the silver medal.[8]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Janja Garnbret | 4t5 4b4 | 100 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Akiyo Noguchi | 4t9 4b9 | 80 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Miho Nonaka | 3t4 4b5 | 65 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Shauna Coxsey | 2t2 3b3 | 55 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Fanny Gibert | 2t6 4b12 | 51 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Petra Klingler | 1t1 3b5 | 47 |
Men
84 athletes attended the World Cup in Hachiōji. Alexey Rubtsov (3t8 4b13) won the World Cup in front of Tomoa Narasaki (3t9 4b19), who had his third consecutive silver medal finish.[8]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Alexey Rubtsov | 3t8 4b13 | 100 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Tomoa Narasaki | 3t9 4b19 | 80 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Keita Watabe | 2t5 3b6 | 65 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Mickael Mawem | 1t1 4b8 | 55 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jakob Schubert | 1t2 3b5 | 51 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Taisei Ishimatsu | 1t3 4b9 | 47 |
Vail, United States (9–10 June)
Women
55 athletes attended the World Cup in Vail. Shauna Coxsey (4t5 4b4) won her third World Cup of the season. Akiyo Noguchi (4t9 4b9) won silver again. For the first time this season Janja Garnbret did not reach the final.[9]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Shauna Coxsey | 3t4 4b5 | 100 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Akiyo Noguchi | 3t6 4b6 | 80 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Miho Nonaka | 3t7 4b7 | 65 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Alex Puccio | 3t10 4b10 | 55 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Katja Kadic | 1t3 2b4 | 51 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Petra Klingler | 0t 1b2 | 47 |
Men
59 athletes attended the World Cup in Vail. Jongwon Chon (4t9 4b8) won the World Cup in front of Meichi Narasaki (3t6 3b5).[9]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jongwon Chon | 4t9 4b8 | 100 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Meichi Narasaki | 3t6 3b5 | 80 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Yoshiyuki Ogata | 3t11 4b7 | 65 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Alexey Rubtsov | 2t5 3b8 | 55 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Kokoro Fujii | 2t6 4b10 | 51 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Keita Watabe | 1t3 1b3 | 47 |
Women
41 athletes attended the World Cup in Navi Mumbai. Shauna Coxsey (4t11 4b8) won her fourth World Cup of the season, thereby securing the overall seasonal title. Miho Nonaka (3t7 4b11) came in second.[10]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Shauna Coxsey | 4t11 4b8 | 100 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Miho Nonaka | 3t7 4b11 | 80 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Akiyo Noguchi | 2t3 3b7 | 65 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Petra Klingler | 1t3 3b4 | 55 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Katja Kadic | 0t 3b6 | 51 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Aya Onoe | 0t 1b5 | 47 |
Men
58 athletes attended the World Cup in Navi Mumbai. Jongwon Chon (4t10 4b10) won the World Cup in front of Rei Sugimoto (3t6 3b4). This left Chon, Rubtsov, and Watabe with a chance to claim the overall title at the final World Cup of the season in Munich.[10]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jongwon Chon | 4t10 4b10 | 100 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Rei Sugimoto | 3t6 3b4 | 80 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Alexey Rubtsov | 3t9 3b8 | 65 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Kokoro Fujii | 1t1 3b9 | 55 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jakob Schubert | 1t1 3b11 | 51 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Tomoa Narasaki | 1t1 2b2 | 47 |
Munich, Germany (18–19 August)
Women
114 athletes attended the World Cup in Munich. Janja Garnbret (3t10 3b6) won her second World Cup of the season, thereby securing the second place overall. Shauna Coxsey (2t2 2b2) won the Silver medal. She had locked up the overall title before the Munich competition already.[11]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Janja Garnbret | 3t10 3b6 | 100 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Shauna Coxsey | 2t2 2b2 | 80 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Akiyo Noguchi | 1t1 2b4 | 65 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Stasa Gejo | 1t3 3b9 | 55 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Alex Puccio | 1t3 2b4 | 51 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Petra Klingler | 0t 1b4 | 47 |
Men
166 athletes attended the World Cup in Munich. Germany's Jan Hojer (4t10 4b6) won the World Cup in front of Tomoa Narasaki (3t6 3b3). However, Narasaki's four second places over the course of the season were not enough to defend his overall title. The overall title went to Jongwon Chon, who had come in fourth in Munich.[11]
| Rank | Name | Score | Points |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jan Hojer | 4t10 4b6 | 100 |
| 2 | Шаблон:Flagicon Tomoa Narasaki | 3t6 3b3 | 80 |
| 3 | Шаблон:Flagicon Taisei Ishimatsu | 3t7 3b4 | 65 |
| 4 | Шаблон:Flagicon Jongwon Chon | 2t3 3b4 | 55 |
| 5 | Шаблон:Flagicon Yoshiyuki Ogata | 2t4 3b4 | 51 |
| 6 | Шаблон:Flagicon Kokoro Fujii | 2t9 2b6 | 47 |
References
Шаблон:Bouldering at the IFSC Climbing World Cup navbox
