Английская Википедия:Bruce Weber (photographer)

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Bruce Weber (born March 29, 1946) is an American fashion photographer[1] and occasional filmmaker.[2] He has made ad campaigns for Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren,[3] Pirelli, Abercrombie & Fitch, Revlon, and Gianni Versace, and made work for Vogue, GQ, Vanity Fair, Elle, Life, Interview, and Rolling Stone magazines.

Life and work

Weber was born in Greensburg, Pennsylvania, to a Jewish family.[4] His fashion photography first appeared in the late 1970s in GQ magazine, where he had frequent cover photos. Nan Bush, his longtime companion and agent, was able to secure a contract with Federated Department Stores to shoot the 1978 Bloomingdales mail catalog. He came to the attention of the general public in the late 1980s and early 1990s with his advertising images for Calvin Klein.[5] He was first approached by Klein to work on an underwear campaign, and Weber took inspiration from Herbert List's shoot in Santorini.[6] His straightforward black-and-white shots, featuring an unclothed woman and man on a swing facing each other, two clothed men in bed, and model Marcus Schenkenberg suggestively holding jeans in front of himself in a shower, catapulted them both into the national spotlight.[6][7] His photograph for Calvin Klein of Olympic athlete Tom Hintnaus in white briefs is an iconic image.[8][9] He photographed the winter 2006 Ralph Lauren Collection.

Файл:ANFstoredisplay.jpg
A Weber photograph in the background on display at an Abercrombie and Fitch store

Some of Weber's earliest fashion photography appeared in the SoHo Weekly News and featured a spread of men wearing only underwear. The photos became the center of controversy and Weber was told by some that he would never find work as a fashion photographer again. This reputation stuck with him as he says: "I don't really work editorially in a large number of magazines because a lot of magazines don't want my kind of photographs. It's too risky for them."[10][5][11]

After doing photo shoots for and of famous people (many of whom were featured in Andy Warhol's Interview magazine), Weber made short films of teenage boxers (Broken Noses),[2][12] his beloved pet dogs, and later, a longer film entitled Chop Suey.[13][14] He directed Let's Get Lost, a 1988 documentary about jazz trumpeter Chet Baker.[15][16]

Weber's photographs are occasionally in color; however, most are in black and white or shades of a tone.[2] They appear in compilations in books including A House is Not a Home[17] as well as Bear Pond and Gentle Giants. The latter two are books of his photographs of his pet dogs.[18]

Weber began collaborating with crooner Chris Isaak in the mid-1980s, photographing Isaak in 1986 for his second album, Chris Isaak. In 1988, Weber photographed a shirtless Isaak in bed for a fashion spread in Rolling Stone.[19] Isaak appeared in Let's Get Lost and Weber has directed a music video for Isaak. Weber photographed Harry Connick, Jr. for his 1991 album Blue Light, Red Light. In 1993, Weber photographed singer-songwriter Jackson Browne for his 1993 album I'm Alive.

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Weber at Condé Nast publishing house in Milan

Filmmaking

Шаблон:BLP unreferenced section Weber's cinematic works—including his four feature-length films—often begin with a photo sitting. While he was photographing the Olympic hopefuls for Interview Magazine in 1984, Weber met Andy Minsker, a young boxer from Oregon, and started interviewing him on camera.[20] While he originally intended to make a short to accompany an exhibition he was opening in Paris, Weber became very excited when he reviewed the dailies and decided to continue the story.[20] Broken Noses (1987), the resulting feature documentary, was nominated for the Grand Jury Award at Sundance in 1988.[20]

As Weber was completing work on Broken Noses, he met the jazz trumpeter and vocalist Chet Baker and began filming him, again with a mind to creating a short film based on their portrait sitting.[20] But filming with Baker continued right through the presentation of Broken Noses in Cannes that year—with Weber ultimately assembling the footage of travel, recording sessions, and interviews into his second feature, Let's Get Lost (1988). The film debuted in Venice (where it won the Cinecritica award) and was subsequently nominated for a Grand Jury Award at Sundance, and for an Oscar for Best Documentary Feature.[20]

Chop Suey, a kaleidoscopic portrait of the wrestler Peter Johnson, was released in 2001, and the impressionistic anti-war film A Letter to True in 2004.[20] His work-in-progress Robert Mitchum feature, Nice Girls Don't Stay for Breakfast was screened at the New York Film Festival in 2017.[21] He has also directed seven short films: Beauty Brothers, Parts I-IV (1987), Backyard Movie (1991), Gentle Giants (1994), The Teddy Boys of the Edwardian Drape Society (1995), Wine and Cupcakes (2007), The Boy Artist (2008), and Liberty City is Like Paris to Me (2009).[20]

Sexual assault allegations

In December 2017, model Jason Boyce sued Weber in New York State Supreme Court, claiming sexual assault, including inappropriate touching and kissing during a 2014 casting session.[22][23] The suit also targets Jason Kanner of Soul Artist Management, which managed Boyce when the alleged assault took place, and Little Bear Inc., the production company operated by Weber's companion, Nan Bush.[24] A second model, Mark Ricketson, came forward in December 2017 alleging similar claims and joined Boyce's lawsuit against Weber.[25]

Weber has denied the allegations,[26] stating to The New York Times that the allegations were "untrue" and that he had "never touched anyone inappropriately".[27]

In January 2018, The New York Times detailed sexual assault allegations by 15 male models against Weber.[28]

In January 2019, it was reported that Weber asked to dismiss the original suit by Jason Boyce, with evidence provided that the model sent him racy photos and texts prior to and after the shoots.[29]

By 2020, the Plantiffs' cases against Weber began to face apparent setbacks, and in June 2020, Lisa Bloom, a high-powered harassment claims lawyer representing Weber's accusers in various suits, was ordered to pay Weber $28,000 in legal costs after Boyce refused to answer certain questions at a deposition.[30]

By September of 2021, the 3 cases against Weber were each either dismissed or settled with no admission or finding of guilt on Weber’s part. [31]

Personal life

Weber has been living with his girlfriend, Nan Bush, since the early 1970s. She is also his agent and one of his collaborators.[32]

In a 2002 interview he said, "I've had a lot of great romances. Men and women, I mean I feel like I can fall in love almost every day. I feel sorry for people who don't feel that."[32]

He has lived in Miami since 1998.[33][34]

Films

Year Title Length Cast
1987 Broken Noses 75:00 Andy Minsker
Beauty Brothers (Part I-IV) 12:26 Paul Dillon, Brian Dillon, Tim Dillon, Rodney Harvey, Maya Oloe
1988 Let's Get Lost 119:25 Chet Baker, Chris Isaak, William Claxton, Flea, Lisa Marie, Rodney Harvey
1991 Backyard Movie 8:55
1994 Gentle Giants 14:35
1995 The Teddy Boys of the Edwardian Drape Society 3:45 Tobey Maguire
2000 Chop Suey 94:00 Peter Johnson, Robert Mitchum, Diana Vreeland, Frances Faye, Jan-Michael Vincent
2002 CZ Guest Documentary Project (Work-in-progress)
2003 A Letter to True 78:00 Julie Christie (narrator), Marianne Faithfull (narrator), Dirk Bogarde, Elizabeth Taylor, Paul Smith, Tully Jensen
2006 The Legend of True 11:35
A Tribute To The Delta Society 2:23
Best Friends 3:44
2007 Wine and Cupcakes 12:10 Angela McCluskey, Paul Cantelon
2008 Looking for Chet, Again, In All The Familiar Places 25:00
The Boy Artist 9:00
You Feel Me? 3:36
2009 Liberty City Is Like Paris To Me 16:00
2014 Iris 79:00 Iris Apfel
2017 'All-American' Documentary Series (Work-in-progress)
2018 Nice Girls Don't Stay For Breakfast: Robert Mitchum Documentary, Paolo Di Paolo Documentary (Work-in-progress) (Work-in-progress)

Music videos

In 1990, Weber directed the music video for the Pet Shop Boys single "Being Boring". He filmed a party with a diverse group of models. The video was filmed in one day by two film crews in a house on Long Island. Content including male and female nudity prevented the video from being played on MTV in the United States. In 1996 he directed the video for the Pet Shop Boys single "Se a vida é (That's the Way Life Is)" on location in a Wet 'n' Wild, a water park near Orlando, Florida. In 2002, he again directed a Pet Shop Boys video, for the song "I Get Along" from the album Release. Weber filmed this video on location at his own Little Bear studio in New York City. He also directed the music video for the Chris Isaak song "Blue Spanish Sky".

Year Song Title Length Artist Album
1988 Everything Happens to Me 3:42 Chet Baker Let's Get Lost (Soundtrack album)
1990 Being Boring 4:55 Pet Shop Boys Behaviour
1991 Blue Spanish Sky 4:13 Chris Isaak Wicked Game
1996 Se a vida é (That's the Way Life Is) 4:50 Pet Shop Boys Bilingual
2002 I Get Along 5:46 Pet Shop Boys Release
Light My Fire 3:44 Will Young From Now On

Awards and nominations

Year Organization Award
1984 Council of Fashion Designers of America Achievement in Photography
American Society of Magazines Photographers' Fashion Photographer of the Year
1985 Council of Fashion Designers of America Achievement in Photography, International Film & TV Festivals on New York, Silver Medal
Art Directors Club Annual Exhibition Merit Award in 2 categories
1986 Clio Awards Recognition in Apparel
Fashion Video Awards Best Children's Wear Video
1988 Art Directors Club Annual Exhibition Bronze Medal for Beauty Brothers I-IV
Cannes International Advertising Film Festival Silver Lion for Beauty Brothers I-IV
International Documentary Association Award for Broken Noses
Venice Film Festival, The Critics Award for Let's Get Lost
1989 Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences Academy Award nomination for Let's Get Lost
International Documentary Association Award for Let's Get Lost
1990 Woolmark Award Woolmark Award for Men's Fashion
Music Week magazine Video of the Year Award for The Pet Shop Boys' video Being Boring
1994 International Center of Photography 10th Annual Infinity Award for applied photography for use of photography in advertising during 1993
1997 Fragrance Foundation Best Advertising in Print and Television for 1996 Woman's Polo Sport Fragrance
1998 F.I.F.I. Award Best Advertising in Print and Television for Romance Fragrance
Life Magazine 1st Annual Alfred Eisenstadt Award, Portrait Photography Winner
2000 Pratt Institute of Art Living Legend Award for Photography and Film
2003 F.I.F.I. Award Men's Fragrance Introduction of the Year – Luxe for Polo Ralph Lauren Blue
F.I.F.I. Award, Best National Advertising Campaign (Print and/or TV) in 2002 for an Established Women's Fragrance for Ralph Lauren Romance Men
2005 International Center for Photography Getty Images Lifetime Achievement Award
2006 Council of Fashion Designers of America Eugenia Sheppard Award for Fashion Journalism
2007 American Society of Magazine Editors National Magazine Award Finalist – Photo Portfolio category for W Magazine story "Welcome to Motor City"
2008 Art Director's Club "Hall of Fame" Honoree
2009 Gordon Parks Foundation Gordon Parks Award for Fashion Photography
2011 Guild Hall Lifetime Achievement Award for Visual Arts
2014 F.I.F.I. Award Best Media Campaign of the Year, Polo Red Fragrance
British Fashion Award (to Maison Louis Vuitton) Best advertising campaign, Louis Vuitton "Series 2" Fashion Campaign
ACRIA honoree Honored for his longstanding commitment to the organization and the fight against AIDS

Bibliography

Books and monographs

Year Title Pages Publisher Genre
1977 Looking Good:
A Guide For Men
Hawthorn Books
(U.S.)
by Charles Hicks; all pictures by Weber
1978 Etre Beau:
Un Guide Pour Les Hommes
Guy Authier
(France)
French edition of Looking Good: A Guide For Men
1983 Bruce Weber Twelvetrees Press
(U.S.)
First monograph
1983 The Sun and the Shade
Florida Photography, 1885–1983
Norton Gallery
West Palm Beach
(U.S.)
Exhibition catalog for an exhibit curated by Weber
1984 Interview Magazine Andy Warhol/Interview
(U.S.)
Special edition on American Athletes of the 1984 Olympic Games; all pictures by Weber
Photographs Of Athletes Olympus Gallery
(U.K.)
Published upon the exhibition held in London (U.K.) at the Olympus Gallery
1986 O Rio De Janeiro Alfred A. Knopf
(U.S.)
Monograph
Summer Diary 1986 Condé Nast (Vogue Italia)
(Italy)
Special insert of the Italian magazine Per Lui; all pictures by Weber
1987 The Andy Book Doeisha Co., Ltd.
(Japan)
Monograph on Andy Minsker, star of Broken Noses
Bruce Weber Idea Books
(Italy)
Catalogue of the exhibition held in Venice (Italy) at Palazzo Fortuny
1988 A Film Journal by Bruce Weber Little Bear Films
(U.S.)
Published in conjunction with the feature film Let's Get Lost
1989 Bruce Weber Alfred A. Knopf
(U.S.)
Monograph
1990 Bear Pond Bulfinch Press
(U.S.)
Monograph
Sam Shepard by Bruce Weber Little Bear Press
(U.S.)
Monograph on Sam Shepard starring Jessica Lange
Great Contemporary Nudes
1978–1990
C-Two Gallery
(Japan)
Published upon the exhibition held in Tokyo.
(Box containing three books dedicated to the three participating photographers, Weber, Robert Mapplethorpe and Herb Ritts.)
1991 Bruce Weber Fahey Klein Gallery
Parco Exposure Gallery
(U.S. / Japan)
Published upon the exhibition held in: New York at the Fahey Klein Gallery and in Tokyo at the Parco Exposure Gallery
Calvin Klein Jeans Condé Nast (Vogue)
Calvin Klein
(U.S.)
Speciale insert of Vanity Fair, all pictures by Weber
Bear Pond Treville Monograph
1992 Hotel Room With A View: Photographs by Bruce Weber Smithsonian Institution
(U.S.)
"Photographers at Work", A Smithsonian Series
1994 Gentle Giants Bulfinch Press
(U.S.)
Monograph dedicated to the Newfoundland dogs
No Valet Parking Photology
(Italy)
published upon the exhibition held in Milan (Italy) at the Galleria Photology
1996 A House Is Not A Home Bulfinch Press
(U.S.)
Monograph
You Can Take The Boy Out Of Vietnam
But You Can't Take Vietnam Out Of The Boy
Condé Nast (Vogue Italia)
(Italy)
Special insert of the Italian magazine L'Uomo Vogue published upon the exhibition Vietnam, Versace, Viaggi, Weber, held in Milan at Palazzo Reale
1997 Branded Youth and Other Stories Bulfinch Press
(U.S.)
Monograph
Pirelli Calendar Pirelli Tires
(Italy)
1998 Calendar, starring: Patricia ArquetteGeorgina GrenvilleDaryl HannahShalom HarlowEva HerzigovaKirsty HumeElaine Irwin MellencampMilla JovovichKiara KabukuruTanga MoreauCarolyn MurphyRachel RobertsStella Tennant

and
B.B. KingBonoPaul CadmusFrancesco ClementeKris KristoffersonJohn MalkovichEwan McGregorDermot MulroneyDan O'BrienSonny RollinsKelly SlaterFred Ward

1998 The Chop Suey Club Arena Editions
(U.S.)
Monograph on Peter Johnson
1999 Shu Fly Little Bear Press
(U.S.)
Monograph
2000 Stern Magazine TeNeues Publishing
Stern Portfolio
(Germany)
Spezial Fotografie Portfolio Number 22
2001 Roadside America TeNeues Publishing
Stern Portfolio
(Germany)
Monograph No. 22 of the "Stern Portfolio" series
All-American Little Bear Press
(U.S.)
1st book of the "All-American" series
Pirelli Calendar Pirelli Tires
(Italy)
2003 Calendar, starring: Alessandra AmbrosioMariacarla BosconoSophie DahlYamila Diaz-RahiIsabeli FontanaBridget HallFilippa HamiltonHeidi KlumKarolína Kurková • Jessica Miller • Sienna MillerRana RaslanEva RiccobonoLisa Seiffert • Valentina Stilla • Natalia Vodianova

and
Marcelo Boldrini • Stéphane Ferrara • Tomasino Ganesh • Alessandro Gassman • Jak Krauszer • Ajay Lamas • Richie LamontagneEnrico Lo Verso • Davide Battista • Massimo Boninsegna • Giuseppe Conte • Luca di Marino • Pasquale Malzone • Raffaele Marciano • Alberto Perini • Serafino Roncacè

2002 All-American II:
Short Stories
Little Bear Press
(U.S.)
2nd book of the "All-American" series
2003 All-American III:
Family Albums
Little Bear Press
(U.S.)
3rd book of the "All-American" series
Hope:
A Letter To True
Condé Nast (Vogue Italia)
(Italy)
Special insert of the Italian magazine L'Uomo Vogue
Thank Your Lucky Stars:
John R. Hamilton
Little Bear Press
(U.S.)
A behind the scenes look at Hollywood celebrity by Hollywood photography veteran, John R. Hamilton.
Foreword by Peter Bogdanovich
2004 All-American IV:
Otherworldly
Little Bear Press
(U.S.)
4th book of the "All-American" series
Stern Magazine TeNeues Publishing
Stern Portfolio
(Germany)
Spezial Fotografie Portfolio Number 38 "Home Is Where The Heart Is"
2005 Blood Sweat And Tears:
Or How I Stopped Worrying And Learned to Love Fashion
TeNeues Publishing
(Germany)
Monograph
Filmography Kinetique Tokyo
(Japan)
Published upon the exhibition held in Tokyo at the Original True Gallery
All-American V:
Is Love Enough?
Little Bear Press
(U.S.)
5th book of the "All-American" series
2006 Sex And Words Visionaire
(U.S.)
Monograph
All-American VI:
Larger Than life
Little Bear Press
(U.S.)
6th book of the "All-American" series
Kate Moss
Is The Girl That Got Away
Condé Nast (Vogue Paris)
(France)
Speciale insert of the French magazine Vogue Hommes International on Kate Moss
2007 All-American VII:
'Til I Get It Right - An Anthem For The South
Little Bear Press
(U.S.)
7th book of the "All-American" series
Live Here, Rent Free Little Bear Press
(U.S.)
Monograph
2008 All-American VIII:
Nature's Way
Little Bear Press
(U.S.)
8th book of the "All-American" series
2009 Roberto Bolle
An Athlete In Tights
TeNeues Publishing
(Germany)
Monograph on Roberto Bolle
Cartier
I Love You
TeNeues Publishing
(Germany)
Celebrating 100 Years of Cartier in America
All-American IX:
A Near-Perfect World
Little Bear Press
(U.S.)
9th book of the "All-American" series
2010 Standing Tall:
Portraits of the Haitian Community in Miami, 2003–2010
Museum of Contemporary Art North Miami
(U.S.)
Published for the exhibition held in Miami at the Museum of Contemporary Art
All-American X:
Written In The Stars
Little Bear Press
(U.S.)
10th book of the "All-American" series
2011 All-American Volume 11:
Just Life
Little Bear Press
(U.S.)
11th book of the "All-American" series
2012 All-American Volume 12:
A Book Of Lessons
TeNeues Publishing
(Germany)
12th book of the "All-American" series
2013 All-American Volume 13:
Born Ready
TeNeues Publishing
(Germany)
13th book of the "All-American" series
2014 Detroit Has Been Good To Me Little Bear Press
(U.S.)
Monograph
All-American Volume 14:
Affairs of the Heart
TeNeues Publishing
(Germany)
14th book of the "All-American" series
2015 All-American Volume 15:
Leap of Faith
TeNeues Publishing
(Germany)
15th book of the "All-American" series
2016 All-American Volume 16:
Wild Blue Yonder
Little Bear Press
(U.S.)
16th book of the "All-American" series
Far From Home Little Bear Press
(U.S.)
Dallas Contemporary
2017 All-American Volume 17:
Glory Be
Little Bear Press
(U.S.)
17th book of the "All-American" series
2018 All-American Volume 18:
Facing The World
Little Bear Press
(U.S.)
18th book of the "All-American" series
Azzedine Bruce Joe Little Bear Press
(U.S.)
Foundation Azzedine Alaia
"Nice Girls Don't Stay for Breakfast" Film Journal Little Bear Films
(U.S.)
La Rabbia
2019 Holiday Magazine
The Egypt Issue
Holiday Magazine
(France)
Photography capturing the essence of Egypt's people and culture

Museums and Libraries

In addition to monographs and exhibition catalogs, he and Nan have published an independent arts journal titled All-American. All-American publishes works by artists, photographers, essayists, poets and other personalities. The subjects of the journal are sometimes already well known but just as often, the participants and subjects of All-American are noteworthy not for fame, but because their stories or accomplishments reveal something that Weber believes will resonate with readers on a deeper and more personal level. His dedication to the All-American project is motivated by a desire to connect, inspire, and support the work of emerging artists.

Weber exhibits his work in prominent museums around the world, often working closely with the curator and art director Dimitri Levas to realize his vision. Weber's most recent solo shows include "Far From Home" at Dallas Contemporary (2016), "Detroit: Bruce Weber" at the Detroit Institute of Arts (2012), and "Haiti/Little Haiti" (2010) at the Museum of Contemporary Art in North Miami.

Other books

  • Rolling Stone: The Photographs, Simon & Schuster Editions (1989), pp. ??-??
  • Pictures Of Peace, Alfred A. Knopf (1991), pp. ??-??
  • Bruce Hainley and David Rimanelli, Shock of the Newfoundland: Bruce Weber's canine camera, "Artforum International 33" (April 1995), pp. 78–81.
  • Il Tempo E La Moda, Skira; Exhibition Catalogue: "Biennale Firenze" (1996), pp. ??-??
  • Gianni Versace, Rock and Royalty, Abbeville Press (February 1997), pp. ??-??
  • David Leddick, The Male Nude, New York: Taschen (1998), pp. ??-??
  • Pirelli Calendar 1964–2004, Rizzoli (2004), pp. ??-??
  • Heel To Heal (2004), pp. ??-??
  • Paintings of New York, 1800–1950 (2005), pp. ??-??
  • Monica Bellucci, Rizzoli (2010), pp. ??-??
  • Kate Moss, Rizzoli (2012), pp. ??-??

References

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External links

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