Английская Википедия:Chima (clothing)

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Шаблон:Italic title Шаблон:Short description Шаблон:Infobox Korean name Шаблон:Transliteration is a generic term for the skirt worn together with Шаблон:Transliteration, or a short jacket in Шаблон:Transliteration, Korean traditional clothing. It is also referred to as Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Linktext) or Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Linktext) in hanja in the Korean language.[1][2][3]

History

While the Шаблон:Transliteration has evolved over time, the Шаблон:Transliteration has remained relatively unchanged throughout time.[4] Basic forms of ancient Шаблон:Transliteration date back to the Goguryeo era (37 BC–668 AD).[5] According to the murals of Goguryeo and an earthen toy excavated from the neighbourhood of Hwangnam-dong, Gyeongju, Goguryeo women usually wore the Шаблон:Transliteration over the chima, covering the top of the chima.[6][7] Later on in the Goguryeo Kingdom, the Шаблон:Transliteration became shorter and shorter, showing off more of the Шаблон:Transliteration.[8]

One popular fashion was the A-line chima.Шаблон:Citation needed

In Silla, China's Tang dynasty influenced the culture of Koreans;[9] several types of Tang dynasty's clothing was also introduced in Korea.[10] The Шаблон:Transliteration, a form of high-waist Шаблон:Transliteration (a generic term for Chinese skirt) worn over a short Chinese jacket was introduced in Silla[11][12][13] and in Balhae.[14] This form of high-waist Шаблон:Transliteration which ties to the chest can still be seen in the chima worn in present days Korean women's [[hanbok|Шаблон:Transliteration]];[15][16] it is also likely that the current women's [[hanbok|Шаблон:Transliteration]] has been derived from the Tang dynasty's high-waist Шаблон:Transliteration with a short Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Lang-zh) or from a later revival of the Tang dynasty fashion.[17]

In Joseon, the clothing which was worn during the Silla period was progressively altered until it became what is now recognized as the traditional [[hanbok|Шаблон:Transliteration]].[10] The Chinese court clothing which were worn in China's Tang dynasty appears to have largely influenced the design of the women's [[hanbok|Шаблон:Transliteration]].[18]

Design and construction

Silhouette

The Chinese court clothing which were worn in China's Tang dynasty appears to have largely influenced the design of the women's [[hanbok|Шаблон:Transliteration]].[18][19] The Шаблон:Transliteration is a floor length wrap around skirt with a wide waistband positioned above the chest. With the high placement of the waistband it allows the skirt to have a more billowy look, which can give greater freedom of movement.[20] Traditionally, women needed to wear about five to seven layers of undergarments which consisted of pants and underskirts, this made the skirt look more voluminous and provide a more elegant look.[20] However, modern women usually wear one layer of undergarment, typically panties.

There are different kinds of Шаблон:Transliteration: single-layered, double-layered, and quilted. Furthermore, Шаблон:Transliteration refers to a Шаблон:Transliteration with a separated back, whereas a Шаблон:Transliteration has a seamed back.[21] The upper class usually use ramie as the fabric to make for summer Шаблон:Transliteration while plain and patterned silks are used throughout the remainder of the year.[22] By contrast, commoners were restricted to using cotton for their Шаблон:Transliteration.[22] Women in the upper class wore a long Шаблон:Transliteration which falls down to the floor while women in the lower class wore a shorter Шаблон:Transliteration which length reaches to the calf of the leg. Korean noblewomen wore full length Шаблон:Transliteration to designate their social status.

Colour

Шаблон:Multiple image Different colours and lengths indicated important social distinctions such as: age, marital status, and class.

The use of primary colours in [[hanbok|Шаблон:Transliteration]], Шаблон:Citation needed span, was typically preferred by the ruling class and people who came from the upper, privileged, social class.[23][24] Korean commoners rarely wore primary coloured [[hanbok|Шаблон:Transliteration]], and they were only allowed to wear it for special occasions, such as seasonal festivals, weddings, and for ceremonial events.[23][24] Nowadays, the [[hanbok|Шаблон:Transliteration]] worn by Korean is colourful due to the Western influences which Korean to become a free society where Koreans could choose what and what colours they want to wear.[24] Wearing colourful [[hanbok|Шаблон:Transliteration]] is, however, a clear contrast from the traditional use of white [[hanbok|Шаблон:Transliteration]].[24]

For thousands of years and nearly exclusively, most Koreans only wore white clothes. They donned colored clothing on special occasions.[24][25] In Korean culture, white has traditionally been a symbol of nobility and innocence; and a result, Koreans would wear white during their lives from birth to death.[24][26] Moreover, the Korean commoners' clothing were mainly un-dyed and plain. Korean people often being nicknamed "the white clad [people]".[24] In Goryeo and Joseon, the use of white clothing was banned by King Chung Yeol in the 13th century and by many Joseon kings which even included King Sejong, but this did not stop the tradition of wearing white clothing to continue until the early 20th century.[24] In Modern times, the use of white hanbok is often associated with resistance and is mostly worn for funerals.[24]

Girls and unmarried women usually wore red skirts, while married women and middle-aged women wore blue skirts and elderly women wore gray skirts.Шаблон:Citation needed In addition, Goguryeo women also wore Шаблон:Transliteration that is a colourfully striped skirt by patchworking, and a Шаблон:Transliteration in form of gored skirt, made by sewing several pieces of fabric without gathering.[27]

See also

References

Шаблон:Commons category Шаблон:Reflist