Английская Википедия:Crew cut

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Шаблон:Short description

Файл:Cena With Spinner Belt.jpg
John Cena sporting a crew cut

A crew cut is a type of haircut in which the upright hair on the top of the head is cut relatively short,Шаблон:Sfn graduated in length from the longest hair that forms a short pomp (pompadour) at the front hairline to the shortest at the back of the crown so that in side profile, so the outline of the top hair approaches the horizontal.Шаблон:SfnШаблон:Sfn Relative to the front view, and to varying degrees, the outline of the top hair can be arched or flattened at the short pomp front and rounded or flattened over the rest of the top to complement the front hairline, head shape, face shape and facial features.Шаблон:Sfn The hair on the sides and back of the head is usually tapered short, semi-short, or medium.Шаблон:SfnШаблон:Sfn

A short crew cut is sometimes referred to as a butch, though with the exception of variant forms, a butch differs from a crew cut in that the top hair is cut a uniform short length.Шаблон:Sfn A long crew cut can be referred to in the US as an ivy league crew cut or ivy league.Шаблон:SfnШаблон:Sfn A crew cut where the hair on the top of the head is graduated in length from the front hairline to a chosen point on the mid to back part of the crown as a flat plane, of level, upward sloping or downward sloping inclination is known as a flat top crew cut or flattop.Шаблон:SfnШаблон:Sfn The crew cut, flat top crew cut, butch cut and Ivy League haircut can be referred to as types of buzz cuts. These haircuts have become popular military-inspired styles for men who want a short and low-maintenance look.[1]

History

Файл:Crew Cut Marine Lieutenant wins All-Marine Cross Country Championship.jpg
Crew-cut Marine Lieutenant, 2011

The crew cut, regardless of the name applied to the hairstyle, was not limited to, nor did the style originate in, the United States.Шаблон:Sfn In English, the crew cut and flat top crew cut were formerly known as the pompadour or short pompadour, as well as the brush cut, and had been worn since at least the mid-18th century.Шаблон:SfnШаблон:SfnШаблон:Sfn The style went by other names in other languages; in French, coupe à la brosse "cut like a brush"; in German, Bürstenschnitt; in Russian, ёжик "hedgehog." A short pompadour with a flat top was considered the standard while a somewhat curved appearance across the top was suggested for wider foreheads and face shapes.Шаблон:Sfn The style with a flat top acquired the name brush top short pompadour and the style with a more rounded top, round top short pompadour.Шаблон:Sfn Prior to the invention of electric clippers with a motor in the handle in 1921 and their ensuing marketing and widespread use, barbers considered the perfect short pompadour to be the most time-consuming style to trim.Шаблон:Sfn[2][3]Шаблон:Sfn

Файл:Crew Cut, Jack Kerouac, 1943.jpg
Author Jack Kerouac sporting a G.I. crew cut in 1943

The term "crew haircut" was most likely coined to describe the hairstyles worn by members of Harvard, Yale, Princeton, Cornell and other university crew teams, which were short to keep the hair from being blown into the face of the rower as the boat races down the course opposite the direction the rower is seated with both hands on the oars, making it impossible to brush the hair out of the face.[4][5][6][7] The name drew a contrast to football haircuts, which had been long since 1889 when Princeton football players began wearing long hair to protect against head injury, thereby starting a trend, not altogether welcome; mop haired football players were frequently caricatured in the popular press.[8]Шаблон:Sfn In 1895, the championship Yale football team appeared with "close-cropped heads" and subsequently long hair went out of style for football. Almost concurrently, the first helmets began to appear.[8]

Crew cuts were popular in the 1920s and 1930s among college students, particularly in the Ivy League. The style was often worn as a summer haircut for its cooling effect.[5][6][7][9] Men inducted into the military in World War II received G.I. haircuts, crew cuts, and a significant proportion continued to wear a crew cut while serving and after, as civilians.[10][11][12][13][14][15] As long hair became popular in the mid-1960s, the crew cut and its variants waned in popularity through the 1970s.[16][17] The crew cut began to come back into style in the late 1970s and early 1980s, with the flat-top crew cut being the most popular crew cut style during the 1980s.[18][19]

Styling

Файл:Crew Cut, Semi Short Taper.jpg
Crew-cut Marine Lieutenant, 2011. The side profile shows graduation of the top hair shorter from the front hairline to the crown.

Thicker hair that wants to readily stand upright is ideal for a crew cut; with an appropriate head shape, a crew cut may be possible with fairly thin hair.Шаблон:Sfn When designing a crew cut, a barber follows the general sequence of other medium to short haircuts; edging, siding and topping.Шаблон:SfnШаблон:Sfn When designing a new crew cut and the current style is not relatively short, the hair on top or all over the head may initially be shortened with shears or clippers. Edging and siding together form a taper which usually is short, semi-short or medium.Шаблон:Sfn For a crew cut, some barbers perform edging and siding as one integrated process, regardless, the upper sides are initially boxed in and then cut to final form when designing the top.Шаблон:Sfn The hair on the top of the head can be styled clipper or shears over comb or free hand with a clipper.Шаблон:Sfn

Файл:UNC 42 Charlie Shaffer, Duke 20 Jack Mullen.jpg
Duke player Jack Mullen (#20), depicted with a crew cut designed for a widow's peak receded hairline while playing basketball

With the clipper or shears over comb method, the comb is inserted in the upright hair at the desired length and the hair is reduced to this length by means of clippers or shears severing the hair above the teeth of the comb.Шаблон:Sfn Freehand means the clipper blade or guard does not determine the cut hair length but rather the distance the cutting blade is held above the scalp sets the cut length.

The barber selects the most complementary final form for the top according to face shape, skull shape, frontal hairline, and facial features within parameters set by customer instructions. Specifically, the short pompadour front can be made higher or lower, wider or narrower and can be flattened or arched to varying degrees across the forehead; the hair over the rest of the top can be more rounded or flattened; the upper sides can have more or less volume.Шаблон:Sfn In side profile, the outward appearance of the upright top hair should approach the horizontal; if the hair is cut so the upright top hair appears horizontal when the head is viewed from the front as well as the side, as a flat plane, the style is generally referred to as a flat-top crew cut or flat top; per customer wishes and the shape of the skull and frontal hairline, the flat plane can be level, upward or downward sloping relative to the forehead.Шаблон:SfnШаблон:SfnШаблон:Sfn A crew cut with a longer top can be referred to in the US as an ivy league crew cut or ivy league.Шаблон:SfnШаблон:Sfn A long crew cut might be graduated in length on the top of the head from Шаблон:Convert at the front hairline to Шаблон:Convert at the back of the crown.Шаблон:SfnШаблон:Sfn A crew cut with a shorter top might have a similar proportional graduated difference in the length of the hair on the top of the head. If a short crew cut is Шаблон:Convert at the front hairline, the length of the hair at the back of the crown might be Шаблон:Convert.Шаблон:SfnШаблон:Sfn

Crew cut gallery

See also

Шаблон:Div col

Шаблон:Div col end

References

Шаблон:Reflist

Bibliography

External links

Шаблон:Human hair

Партнерские ресурсы
Криптовалюты
Магазины
Хостинг
Разное

  1. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  2. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  3. ↑ Andis, Our History
  4. ↑ Шаблон:Cite journal
  5. ↑ 5,0 5,1 Шаблон:Cite news
  6. ↑ 6,0 6,1 Шаблон:Cite news
  7. ↑ 7,0 7,1 Шаблон:Cite newsШаблон:Dead link
  8. ↑ 8,0 8,1 Beau Riffenburgh, The Official NFL Encyclopedia: "The Helmet"
  9. ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
  10. ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
  11. ↑ Шаблон:CitationШаблон:Dead link
  12. ↑ Шаблон:CitationШаблон:Dead link
  13. ↑ Шаблон:Citation
  14. ↑ Шаблон:Cite journal
  15. ↑ Шаблон:Cite magazine
  16. ↑ Шаблон:Cite journal
  17. ↑ Шаблон:Citation
  18. ↑ Шаблон:Citation
  19. ↑ Шаблон:Citation
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