Английская Википедия:Dangui
Шаблон:Italic title Шаблон:Infobox Korean name
Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Korean; also written with the Шаблон:Transliteration characters《Шаблон:Linktext》;[1][2] Шаблон:IPA-ko), also called Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Korean), Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Korean), Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Korean),[3][1][4] Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Korean),[1][4] and Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Korean),[5] is a type of Шаблон:Transliteration (upper garment) for women in Шаблон:Transliteration, the Korean traditional clothing, which was worn for ceremonial occasions (e.g. for minor ceremonies in the palace as soryebok (小禮服)) in the palace during the Joseon dynasty.[6] It was typically a garment item reserved for the upper class and commoners of this period would rarely see anyone in this garment.[4] It was worn as a simple official outfit or for small national ceremonies while court ladies wore it as a daily garment.[7]
Origins
It is currently believed the dangui originated from jangjeogori (장저고리; long jeogori), which was worn before the early Joseon Dynasty[8] as formal wear.[2]
The scholars of the late Joseon Dynasty, such as Bak Gyusu who wrote the Geoga japbokgo (거가잡복고 居家雜服攷), a history of Korean clothing, in 1841, believed that the dangui originated from China and may have dated back to the time when the Chinese clothing system was introduced to Korea between 57 BC and 668 AD, during the Three Kingdoms period of Korea:
This belief was due to the use of the Chinese character《Шаблон:Linktext》; this character could either refer to the Tang (唐) dynasty or indicate a "Chinese" (唐) product introduced from China; but, in this context, the scholars had assumed that it referred to the Tang dynasty. However, the claim that the dangui dates back to the Tang dynasty is currently judged as being erroneous, considering that the clothing characteristics of the dangui appeared in the middle of the 17th century according to the excavation of related relics.[9] It is also noted that it is only in the 17th century that the term dangui first appeared in literature.[2]
Whether the late Joseon theory on the origins of the dangui is probable or not, it is certain that the Шаблон:Transliteration was worn during the Joseon period, based on historical documents and remains. The scholar, Yi Jae (李縡 1680 ~ 1746) mentioned the Шаблон:Transliteration in his book, Шаблон:Transliteration 《Шаблон:Korean》which defines four important rites based on Confucianism.[10][11] In the chapter, Шаблон:Transliteration《Шаблон:Linktext》on the coming of age ceremonies, the Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Korean) was commonly called Шаблон:Transliteration and its length reaches to the knees and its sleeves are narrow. It is also a woman's Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Hanja; Шаблон:Lang-zh), a daily garments when working.[3][12][13][14]
Construction and design
The form of Шаблон:Transliteration is similar to that of Шаблон:Transliteration; however, the length of both the front and back side of the Шаблон:Transliteration reach to the knees-level and is triple to that of Шаблон:Transliteration.
The characteristic design purpose of the Шаблон:Transliteration is to emphasize the beauty of the Шаблон:Transliteration's curvy lines. The side seams are open to the armpit and are curved in shape.[4] When making a dangui with a yellowish green fabric, the color for the inner fabric and for Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Korean), which is the ribbons tied at the chest, is red and purple respectively. Two Шаблон:Transliteration are attached at the left side of Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Korean), which is a fabric band of that trims the collar while one short Шаблон:Transliteration is at the git's right side.
The sleeves of Шаблон:Transliteration are narrow. At the end of the sleeves of Шаблон:Transliteration, there is Шаблон:Transliteration, a kind of white border band attached.[3] The white border band is an indication that it is a type of ceremonial garment.[4]
The materials, along with the decorations and colours used in the Шаблон:Transliteration, differed based on the social status of its wearer, on the occasions when it had to be worn, and on the seasons.[4]
Lining and padding
In addition, the Шаблон:Transliteration can be divided into two types depending on its layer: the Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Korean), which is a double layered Шаблон:Transliteration, and the Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Korean), which is a single-layered Шаблон:Transliteration. The Шаблон:Transliteration was also called Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Korean) or Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Korean). The Шаблон:Transliteration was usually worn during winter while the Шаблон:Transliteration in summer.
As the Queen had worn a white Шаблон:Transliteration made of a single fabric the day before the Dano festival, which falls on the 5th day of the fifth month of the lunar calendar, every women at court followed the trend and change their clothing to the single layered one the next day. Likewise, when the Queen began to wear a double layered Шаблон:Transliteration the day before Chuseok, an event which celebrates on every 15th day of August in the lunar calendar, all women in the palace changed their clothing to the double layered Шаблон:Transliteration the next day.[3][12]
Colours and decorations
Colours
The queen consort, the king's concubines, Шаблон:Transliteration (court matron), and Шаблон:Transliteration women (nobility) wore the garment over a short jacket called Шаблон:Transliteration. According to colour, there were yellowish green, pale green, purple, navy, dark blue, and white-colored Шаблон:Transliteration and others, but yellowish green coloured one was the most commonly worn Шаблон:Transliteration during the time.[3][4] The dangui were also named after their colours, for example, yeondu dangui for green, jaju dangui for plum, namsong dangui for blue, and baesaek dangui for white.[6] Each colour also has its own unique association with the seasons: purple were used for the winter solstice, pale green was for spring, and white was for the Dano, in the summer after the Dano, or were used as mourning attire for a state funeral.[4] The purple Шаблон:Transliteration was used by the queen in winter.[4] The dark blue Шаблон:Transliteration appears to have been used by low-ranking court ladies, who wore it on important events, such as royal wedding.[4]
Decorations
The Шаблон:Transliteration for women at court strictly represented the wearer's rank, whereas the Шаблон:Transliteration for commoners was not allowed to have any style used for the former. The Шаблон:Transliteration for the Queen, princesses or other royalty, Шаблон:Transliteration (gold leaf) patterns were decorated from the shoulder part through the end of the sleeves, as well as the front and back side, and Шаблон:Transliteration.
In the Шаблон:Transliteration patterns, illustrations of flower or bats or Шаблон:Transliteration characters which symbolizes auspicious themes, such as Шаблон:Transliteration《壽》which uses the Chinese character Шаблон:Transliteration《Шаблон:Lang-zh》and expresses wishes for longevity; Шаблон:Transliteration《福》which uses the Chinese character Шаблон:Transliteration《Шаблон:Lang-zh》which expresses wishes for good fortune; and Шаблон:Transliteration《Шаблон:Lang-zh》which uses the Chinese character Шаблон:Transliteration《Шаблон:Lang-zh》, commonly known as double happiness in English, which expresses wishes for a blessed marriage. For the Queen, patterns depicting the phoenix were also used. Official rank badge called Шаблон:Transliteration or the royal badge called Шаблон:Transliteration could also be sewn on the chest area of the Шаблон:Transliteration according to its wearer ranks.[4]
Wedding dress
When the Шаблон:Transliteration was worn as a wedding dress, the bride wore it over a Шаблон:Transliteration (a wrapping skirt) and Шаблон:Transliteration. The wearer also put a Шаблон:Transliteration (a form of Korean Шаблон:Transliteration) on the head, attached a Шаблон:Transliteration, a type of accessory to the Шаблон:Transliteration, and wore a pair of shoes made of silk. Since it was easy to wear and neat, the Шаблон:Transliteration eventually became one of commonly worn wedding clothing among commoners during the Joseon dynasty.[3][12]
Gallery
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Models in red dangui
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Models of gungnyeo, lady-in-waiting in green dangui
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A model of a royal woman in a green dangui
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A dancer in a white dangui performing buchaechum (a fan dance)
See also
References
Шаблон:Commons category Шаблон:Reflist
- ↑ 1,0 1,1 1,2 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ 2,0 2,1 2,2 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ 3,0 3,1 3,2 3,3 3,4 3,5 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ 4,00 4,01 4,02 4,03 4,04 4,05 4,06 4,07 4,08 4,09 4,10 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite journal
- ↑ 6,0 6,1 Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ 12,0 12,1 12,2 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
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