Английская Википедия:Dopo (clothing)
Шаблон:Short description Шаблон:Italic titleШаблон:Infobox Korean name Dopo (Шаблон:Korean) is a variety of po, or overcoat in hanbok, which was first worn in the middle of the Joseon since the 16th century.[1][2][3][4] The dopo was mostly worn by male Confucian scholars called seonbi during the Joseon period.[5][6] It was also worn by Kings and princes and government officers.[7] The dopo held a strong Confucianism value.[7] It was worn as an everyday outer garment by Neo-Confucian scholars,[8] who wore it as an official form of clothing or as a ritual clothing.[1] It was also an ordinary robe worn by the court officials.[1] Since the 1894 reform, all varieties of po with wide sleeves, including the dopo, were prohibited to be worn by King Gojong and instead people had to wear the durumagi.[9]
Construction and design
The dopo is a long over-coat (po) with V-neck and wide sleeves.[1][2] It was long enough to reach the ankle of his wearer.[10][1]
The white color dopo was typically worn for ordinary use while the light blue dopo was for festive occasions.[10][8] Many other colors were also used.Шаблон:Citation needed Dopo made of ramie was used in summer while those made out of silk and cotton were used in winter.[8]
In terms of construction, the basic form dopo was similar to the jikryeong having a straight collar.[7] It differed from the jikryeong in the shape of the mu (무, gusset).[7] The mu of the dopo was found inside or on the back region of the garment; it was running along the front region of the garment and created two flaps on the back region of the garment.[7]
Another characteristics of the dopo is its back region which is split into 2 on back center line and is fully covered by another piece of fabric called Jeonsam.[1]
The dopo worn by the commoners were different in terms of styles from those worn by the members of the royal families; for example, the dopo worn by the commoners had a straight lapels while the dopo worn by King Yeongjo had a lapel which was made through a combination of square and pointy shape.[3]
Origins
Шаблон:Main It is recorded that the dopo was first worn in the middle period of the Joseon dynasty.[1] The dopo started to appear in Joseon since the 16th century according to historical records and relics.[3] According to Lee Eunjoo, the dopo was originally introduced from China but was localized in Korea through the integration of additional features.[11]
According to historical documents such as Seongho saseol (성호사설/星湖僿說), Ojuyeon munjang jeonsango (오주연문장전산고/五洲衍文長箋散稿), the garment was influenced by Buddhism. The authors claimed that dopo was originally monk's robe called, gwontu (권투/圈套) which was identical to jangsam, another monk's garment.[12][13][14] The Buddhist jangsam (장삼/長衫; lit. 'long gown') was a Buddhist robe, which was worn under the kasaya until the early Joseon, was in the form of the Chinese monastic robe called zhiduo.[15] After the Imjin wars, the Joseon system of po (robes) was adopted which allowed the dopo and the durumagi (두루마기) (also known as juui) to be used as jangsam.[15] According to Cho Geun-Hee, the name 'dopo' may have originated from China; however, the structure of the dopo was developed under the influences of other forms of traditional Korean overgarments.[16] It is suggested by the author Myoung-Hee Lee that the dopo appears to have its origins from the robe worn in Goguryeo (고구려).[1] Other authors such as Jungae Kim also suggest that it is the dopo could have originated from the jikryeong (직령/直領; coat with a straight collar) po and with which its bears similarities.[9]
Similar garments
See also
References
External links
- ↑ 1,0 1,1 1,2 1,3 1,4 1,5 1,6 1,7 Шаблон:Cite journal
- ↑ 2,0 2,1 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ 3,0 3,1 3,2 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite journal
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite journal
- ↑ Traditional Korean Costume by Kyŏng-ja Yi, Na-yŏng Hong, Suk-hwan Chang, Mi-ryang Yi
- ↑ 7,0 7,1 7,2 7,3 7,4 Шаблон:Cite journal
- ↑ 8,0 8,1 8,2 Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ 9,0 9,1 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ 10,0 10,1 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite journal
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite webШаблон:Dead link
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ 15,0 15,1 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite journal
