Английская Википедия:Dreamtime (climb)

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Шаблон:Short description Шаблон:Other Шаблон:Infobox climbing route Dreamtime is a Шаблон:Convert long gneiss bouldering route in a forest in Cresciano, Switzerland. When first solved in October 2000 by Swiss bouldering pioneer Fred Nicole, it was graded at Шаблон:Boulder grade, making it the world's first-ever boulder route at that grade. With subsequent repeat ascents, it was regraded to Шаблон:Boulder grade, but after the breaking of a key hold in 2009, its grade is now considered closer to Шаблон:Boulder grade. Dreamtime is the most notable bouldering route in climbing history along with Midnight Lightning, and is renowned for both its beauty and its challenge.

History

In early 2000, Swiss bouldering pioneer Fred Nicole began projecting Dreamtime, envisaging a Шаблон:Convert long right-to-left diagonal route from a sit-start that took about 21 movements.[1][2][3] After traveling to Australia and then to South Africa, Nicole returned to the route in the autumn and solved it on 28 October 2000.[1][2] Nicole felt it was the hardest route he had ever done and proposed a grade of Шаблон:Boulder grade,[1] which was the first-ever boulder route at that grade.[2] Nicole recounted: "We had been in Australia over the summer, so I felt that this name was a good fit. For the Aborigines, 'dreamtime' means a kind of half-dreaming trance, somewhere between dream and reality, or a dream that becomes reality. When I saw the line for the first time, I thought: Wow! Is that even possible? And then it finally happened. Dreamtime was a very special time for me, a highlight in my climbing life".[2]

In 2001, Austrian climber Шаблон:Ill made the first repeat and agreed with the Шаблон:Boulder grade grading. In 2002, American climber Dave Graham made the third ascent but used a heel hook that he felt softened the grade to Шаблон:Boulder grade. The following year, American climber Chris Sharma made the fourth ascent, and using Graham's new beta agreed with Graham's grading. There was concern that holds were "overcleaned" (or even chipped) since Zangerl's ascent,[4] which might have contributed to the softening of the grade.[5][6] In 2003, the situation was further complicated when Christian Core made the fifth ascent and said it was the hardest boulder he had ever climbed, supporting a V15 grade. Over the next 5 years, Dreamtime became one of the most desirable boulder routes for leading climbers and repeats by Dai Koyamada, Nalle Hukkataival, Daniel Woods, Kilian Fischhuber and Adam Ondra (who was only 15 and solved it in 4 hours), led to a consensus grade of Шаблон:Boulder grade.[5][6]

In November 2009, Italian climber Шаблон:Ill discovered that the crux pinch hold had broken off, thus changing the route.[5] In December 2009, Nalle Hukkataival repeated the damaged route and logged on the climbing database, 8a.nu, that the "standing start" version was now Шаблон:Boulder grade, and that Nicole's "sit start" version was "a real 8C now".[7] After repeating the route a few days later, Ondra felt it was a "hard 8B+", but not 8C.[8] With further repeats, the consensus is that the grade is now closer to 8C, with Jan Hojer saying in 2013, "Much harder than any 8B+ (V14) I have ever tried".[9]

The Story of Two Worlds

In June 2005, Dave Graham created The Story of Two Worlds on the other side of the Dreamtime boulder, proposing a grade of Шаблон:Boulder grade.[10] After the heated debates on Dreamtime, Graham wanted to create a route that would be the "new standard for 8C".[10][11] The 21-move route is a sit-start that links up with Toni Lamprecht's The Dagger Шаблон:Boulder grade. In 2010, Dai Koyamada made the first repeat but confusion over the start position led Dai to return in 2012 and make another repeat but from a much lower position than Graham, creating The Story of Two Worlds Low Start, and at Шаблон:Boulder grade.[12]

With subsequent repeats by Paul Robinson, Jernej Kruder, and others, there was a consensus that the grade was at Шаблон:Boulder grade.[13] The Story of Two Worlds became the first boulder to have a "consensus" grade of Шаблон:Boulder grade,[10] although the actual first-ever at the grade is now regarded as Nicole's Monkey Wedding and Black Eagle SDS,[14] both solved in 2002 on a trip to Rocklands, South Africa.[6]

Ironically, even The Story of Two Worlds became subject to downgrade speculation, particularly with the development of kneepads that can be used for extended knee bar rests; Graham himself told Climbing in 2017 that the route "might be V14 now".[11] Further repeats by some leading climbers such as Alex Megos have upheld the grade of Шаблон:Boulder grade, with Megos saying after his ascent of TSOTW in 2020, "I'd say 8C is about right".[15]

Variations

In February 2023, German climber Yannick Flohé create a direct finish that starts with Dreamtime, but at the crux goes right and directly up the boulder following the line of Jimmy Webb's Somnolence Шаблон:Boulder grade. He named this variation Return of the Dreamtime, and proposed a grade of Шаблон:Boulder grade.[16][17]

Legacy

In a 2009 article on Dreamtime, PlanetMountain said: "So beautiful and important, the Dreamtime immediately did as its name suggests, it made everyone dream and, in doing so, it became a reference point for cutting-edge problems, one of the most famous boulders in the world, second perhaps only to Midnight Lightning, freed by Ron Kauk in 1978 at Camp Four in Yosemite.[2] Others have also labeled Dreamtime as being the world's most famous boulder route,[18] often along with Midnight Lightning, and credited it for promoting the development of the sport.[4]

In 2015, Climbing, listed Dreamtime and The Story of Two Worlds, in their "Climb of the Century" for the bouldering category, saying: "In 2000, Fred Nicole gave the world its first 8C (V15) boulder with Dreamtime—arguably the first internationally famous boulder problem since Midnight Lightning. The Story of Two Worlds (Dave Graham, 2005), on the same boulder, became the new standard for V15 after Dreamtime was broken and downgraded."[19]

In a later 2017 piece, PlanetMountain said: "But the one that more than any other captured the imagination of climbers at the beginning of the new millennium was most certainly Dreamtime..".[2] Repeating Dreamtime became a rite-of-passage for every major boulder climber.[2][4] In 2017, Outside listed the ascent of Dreamtime in its "12 Great Moments in Bouldering History".[6] In 2020, when leading German climber Alex Megos repeated Dreamtime, he wrote on his Instagram page: "This one has definitely been on the bucket list! DREAMTIME. Possibly the most famous boulder problem in the world!".[20]

Ascents

Dreamtime has been ascended by (and their proposed grade):[21]

Pre-hold break

Шаблон:Div col

Шаблон:Div col end

Post-hold break

Файл:Dreamtime Boulder in Cresciano - broken hold.jpg
Broken hold of Dreamtime

Other notable post-break:

See also

References

Шаблон:Reflist

Further reading

External links

Партнерские ресурсы
Криптовалюты
Магазины
Хостинг
Разное

  1. ↑ 1,0 1,1 1,2 1,3 Шаблон:Cite web
  2. ↑ 2,0 2,1 2,2 2,3 2,4 2,5 2,6 Шаблон:Cite web
  3. ↑ 3,0 3,1 Шаблон:Cite web
  4. ↑ 4,0 4,1 4,2 Шаблон:Cite web
  5. ↑ 5,0 5,1 5,2 Шаблон:Cite web
  6. ↑ 6,0 6,1 6,2 6,3 Шаблон:Cite web
  7. ↑ 7,0 7,1 Шаблон:Cite web
  8. ↑ 8,0 8,1 8,2 Шаблон:Cite web
  9. ↑ 9,0 9,1 Шаблон:Cite web
  10. ↑ 10,0 10,1 10,2 Шаблон:Cite web
  11. ↑ 11,0 11,1 Шаблон:Cite web
  12. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  13. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  14. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  15. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  16. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  17. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  18. ↑ 18,0 18,1 Шаблон:Cite web
  19. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  20. ↑ 20,0 20,1 Шаблон:Cite web
  21. ↑ 21,00 21,01 21,02 21,03 21,04 21,05 21,06 21,07 21,08 21,09 21,10 21,11 21,12 21,13 21,14 21,15 21,16 21,17 Шаблон:Cite web
  22. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  23. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  24. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  25. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  26. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  27. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  28. ↑ 28,0 28,1 Шаблон:Cite web
  29. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  30. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  31. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  32. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  33. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  34. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  35. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  36. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  37. ↑ 37,0 37,1 Шаблон:Cite web
  38. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
  39. ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
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