Английская Википедия:Durumagi
Шаблон:Short description Шаблон:Use dmy dates Шаблон:Infobox clothing type Шаблон:Infobox Korean name Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Korean) is a variety of Шаблон:Transliteration, or overcoat, in Шаблон:Transliteration, the traditional Korean attire. It is a form of outerwear which is usually worn as the topmost layer of clothing, over a Шаблон:Transliteration (jacket) and Шаблон:Transliteration (pants).[1]Шаблон:Rp It also goes by the names Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Korean), Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Korean), or Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Korean),[2]
History
The origin of Шаблон:Transliteration traces back to at least the Three Kingdoms of Korea, where it originated from a long coat worn by the northern Chinese to fend off cold weather in ancient times.[3][4][5][6] This form of Шаблон:Transliteration (Chinese robes) was mid-calf in length and had binding which were similar to those used in the Шаблон:Transliteration.[3] Such form of robes looked similar to the Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Lang-zh) which was developed since Shang dynasty. Two unearthed examples of the Шаблон:Transliteration can be found in Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Lang-zh) BC 206–24 and Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Lang-zh) BC 770–476.[7][8]
Tomb murals from Goguryeo were primarily painted in two regions, Ji'an (Шаблон:Lang-zh) and Pyeongyang, which are the second and third capitals of the Goguryeo from the middle of the 4th to the middle of the 7th centuries respectively.[9]Шаблон:Rp The paintings datings from this period in the region of Jian typically shows the characteristics of the people of Goguryeo in terms of morals and customs while those in the regions of Pyeongyang would typically show the cultural influence of the Han dynasty, including figures dressed in Шаблон:Transliteration attire, as the Han dynasty had governed this geographical region for approximately 400 years.[9]Шаблон:Rp
According to Samuel Lee, the origins of the Шаблон:Transliteration can be traced back to the Goguryeo period:[3]
However, what is now known as the Шаблон:Transliteration is part of the indigenous attire of the Korean people:[10]
Based on the Goguryeo mural paintings found near Pyeongyang, such as the early 5th century murals from Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Lang-zh), the ancient Шаблон:Transliteration worn by the owner of Шаблон:Transliteration tomb was red (or purple) in colour:[11]Шаблон:Rp
The Шаблон:Transliteration murals show a mixture of elements from before and after the fifth century; the wide-sleeves attire also reflect the characteristics of tomb murals which are found near the Pyeongyang area.[11]Шаблон:Rp The ancient Шаблон:Transliteration was also worn with a waist belt and had wide sleeves.[12]
Goryeo
During the Goryeo period, Mongolian influences caused the Шаблон:Transliteration to change in appearance.[12] Not only was the waist belt changed into a Шаблон:Transliteration, the traditional Шаблон:Transliteration's short length and wide sleeves were lengthened and narrowed to the style of the Mongolian coat, Шаблон:Transliteration, of which the name Шаблон:Transliteration is said to be derived.[13]
Joseon period
During the Joseon dynasty, the Шаблон:Transliteration was less worn as an overcoat but more of a housecoat for the noble class, whereas it was worn outdoors by the commoners. In 1884, King Gojong promulgated the unification of clothing for all social classes through reform laws.[14] However, this law was met with much resistance and it was only until ten years later, after the Gabo Reform of 1894, that the Шаблон:Transliteration became common as formal attire.[12]
Construction and design
The Шаблон:Transliteration is an overcoat, which is closed all around,[2] lacking side and back vents.[1]Шаблон:Rp It has a straight collar with front overlapping front panels closing to the right, side gores, chest ties, neckband and narrow sleeves; its length is about under the calves and above the ankles.[1]Шаблон:Rp
Different fabrics and materials are used in making Шаблон:Transliteration: calico, wool, cotton, and various silks for winter; ramie, fine ramie and silk gauze for summer; various silks and calico for spring and autumn.[2] White, grey and navy blue are commonly used.[15]
Types of durumagi
There are various types which include the Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Korean), Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Korean), Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Korean), Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Korean), and Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Korean) for children.[16]
During the Goryeo era, a unique type of armor, called Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Korean) emerged as the main armor for the Korean armies up until the early Joseon period in the 15th century. The opponents of Goryeo weren't heavily armored soldiers of other Koreanic states anymore. The trend shifted towards armor that made units mobile and responsive to a conflict with nomadic Mongolic or semi-nomadic and sedentary Tungusic tribes to the North. The Шаблон:Transliteration is a simple overcoat or robe with scale armor inside forming dots on the outside. Commonly these scales are made from leather, or iron, but some of them are shaped like leaves or coated with mercury or black lacquer to make them shine.[17] They're also complete with a (winged) helmet with or without a hohaeg (Шаблон:Korean) of lamellar inside to protect their heads and necks.[18]
Modern use
The Шаблон:Transliteration is still considered an important part of traditional attire for formal occasions,[19] but a variety of colours and designs are being used. Colourful Шаблон:Transliteration were given as gifts to the world leaders of the 2005 APEC Summit in Busan.[20]
See also
References
External links
- Owner of Шаблон:Transliteration tomb wearing a purple (or red) Шаблон:Transliteration from the National Museum of Korea
- Korea National Heritage online from the Cultural Heritage Administration
- Шаблон:In lang Hanbok Story
- ↑ 1,0 1,1 1,2 Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ 2,0 2,1 2,2 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ 3,0 3,1 3,2 Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ 9,0 9,1 Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ 11,0 11,1 Шаблон:Cite magazine
- ↑ 12,0 12,1 12,2 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:In lang New hanbok, Herald Biz 2010-03-30. Retrieved 14 June 2010
- ↑ Шаблон:In lang Obangjang durumagi from Daum Communications and Korea Culture & Content Agency
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:In lang Durumagi a must, bnt news 14 February 2010
- ↑ Шаблон:In lang Leaders in durumagi, Nocut News 25 November 2005
