Английская Википедия:Eight-thousander

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Шаблон:Short description Шаблон:Use dmy dates

Файл:Eight Thousanders Map.png
Locations of the world's 14 eight-thousanders, which are split between the Himalayan (right), and the Karakoram mountain ranges (left)

The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognised by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than Шаблон:Convert in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise definition of the criteria used to assess independence, and, since 2012, the UIAA has been involved in a process to consider whether the list should be expanded to 20 mountains. All eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits are in the death zone.

From 1950 to 1964, all 14 eight-thousanders were summited in the summer (the first was Annapurna I in 1950, and the last was Shishapangma in 1964), and from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter (the first being Mount Everest in 1980, and the last being K2 in 2021). On a variety of statistical techniques, the deadliest eight-thousander is Annapurna I (one death – climber or climber support – for every three summiters), followed by K2 and Nanga Parbat (one death for every four to five summiters), and then Dhaulagiri and Kangchenjunga (one for every six to seven summiters).

The first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders was the Italian climber Reinhold Messner in 1986, who did not use any supplementary oxygen. In 2010, Edurne Pasaban, a Basque Spanish mountaineer became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders, but with the aid of supplementary oxygen. In 2011, Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without the aid of supplementary oxygen. In 2013, South Korean Kim Chang-ho climbed all 14 eight-thousanders in 7 years and 310 days, without the aid of supplementary oxygen. In 2019, British-Nepalese climber Nirmal Purja, climbed all 14 eight-thousanders in 6 months and 6 days, with supplementary oxygen. In July 2022, Sanu Sherpa became the first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders twice, which he did from 2006 to 2022.

Issues with false summits (e.g. Cho Oyu, Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri), or separated dual summits (e.g. Shishapangma and Manaslu), have led to disputed claims of ascents.[1] In 2022, after several years of research, a team of experts reported that they could only confirm evidence that three climbers, Ed Viesturs, Veikka Gustafsson and Nirmal Purja, had actually stood on the true summit of all 14 eight-thousanders.[2]

Climbing history

First ascents

Файл:Flight over himalaya annotated.jpg
Flight over the Khumbu region; six eight-thousanders are visible

The first recorded attempt on an eight-thousander was when Albert F. Mummery, Geoffrey Hastings and J. Norman Collie tried to climb Pakistan's Nanga Parbat in 1895. The attempt failed when Mummery and two Gurkhas, Ragobir Thapa and Goman Singh, were killed by an avalanche.[3]

The first recorded successful ascent of an eight-thousander was by the French Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, who reached the summit of Annapurna on 3 June 1950 during the 1950 French Annapurna expedition.[4] Due to its location in Tibet, Shishapangma was the last eight-thousander to be ascended, which was completed by a Chinese team led by Xu Jing in 1964 (Tibet's mountains were closed by China to foreigners until 1978).[5]

The first winter ascent of an eight-thousander was by a Polish team led by Andrzej Zawada on Mount Everest, with Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki reaching the summit on 17 February 1980;[6] all-Polish teams would complete nine of the first fourteen winter ascents of eight-thousanders.[7] The final eight-thousander to be climbed in winter was K2, whose summit was ascended by a 10-person Nepalese team on 16 January 2021.[8]

Only two climbers have completed more than one first ascent of an eight-thousander, Hermann Buhl (Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak) and Kurt Diemberger (Broad Peak and Dhaulagiri). Buhl's summit of Nanga Parbat in 1953 is notable as being the only solo first ascent of one of the eight-thousanders. The Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka is noted for creating over ten new routes on various eight-thousander mountains.[7] Italian climber Simone Moro made the first winter ascent of four eight-thousanders (Shishapangma, Makalu, Gasherbrum II, and Nanga Parbat),[9] while three Polish climbers have each made three first winter ascents of an eight-thousander, Maciej Berbeka (Cho Oyu, Manaslu, and Broad Peak), Krzysztof Wielicki (Everest, Kangchenjunga, and Lhotse) and Jerzy Kukuczka (Dhaulagiri I, Kangchenjunga, and Annapurna I).[7]

All 14

Файл:Comparison of highest mountains.svg
Comparison of the heights of the Eight-thousanders (red triangles) with the Seven Summits and Seven Second Summits
Файл:30 highest peaks with more than 500m prominence.png
The 30–highest peaks in the world with over Шаблон:Cvt in prominence[10]

On 16 October 1986, Italian Reinhold Messner became the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders. In 1987, Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka became the second person to accomplish this feat.[7] Messner summited each of the 14 peaks without the aid of bottled oxygen, a feat that was only repeated by the Swiss Erhard Loretan nine years later in 1995 (Kukuczka had used supplementary oxygen while summiting Everest and on no other eight-thousander[7]).[11]

On 17 May 2010, Spanish climber Edurne Pasaban became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders.[12] In August 2011, Austrian climber Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to climb the 14 eight-thousanders without the use of supplementary oxygen.[13][14]

The first couple and team to summit all 14 eight-thousanders were the Italians Nives Meroi (who was the second woman to accomplish this feat without supplementary oxygen), and her husband Шаблон:Ill on 11 May 2017.[15][16] The couple climbed alpine style, without the use of supplementary oxygen or other support.[16][17]

Nepali mountain guide Kami Rita, holds the record for the most ascents of an eight-thousander peak at 38, a feat he achieved on 23 May 2023 by summiting Everest for the 28th time (which was also a record for the most summits of Everest by a climber).[18]

On 20 May 2013, South Korean climber Kim Chang-ho set a new speed record of climbing all 14 eight-thousanders, without the use of supplementary oxygen, in 7 years and 310 days. On 29 October 2019, the British-Nepali climber Nirmal Purja set a speed record for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders, with the use of supplementary oxygen, in 6 months and 6 days.[19][20][21]

In July 2022, Sanu Sherpa became the first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders twice.[22] He started with Cho Oyu in 2006, and completed the double by summiting Gasherbrum II in July 2022.[23]

On 27 July 2023, Kristin Harila and Tenjen Lama Sherpa completed the ascent of the true geographic summits of all of the 14 eight-thousanders in 92 days, setting a new world speed record for the completion of the eight-thousanders.[24][25]

Deadliest

Шаблон:See also

Estimated sample death rates for the 14 eight-thousanders[26][27]
Eight
thousander
From 1950 to March 2012[27] Climber
Death Rate
[28][29]Шаблон:Efn
Total
AscentsШаблон:Efn
Total
DeathsШаблон:Efn
Deaths/
AscentsШаблон:Efn
Everest 5656 223 3.9% 1.52%
K2 283 40 14.1% 3.00%
Lhotse 461 13 2.8% 1.03%
Makalu 361 31 8.6% 1.63%
Cho Oyu 3138 44 1.4% 0.64%
Dhaulagiri I 448 69 15.4% 2.94%
Manaslu 661 65 9.8% 2.77%
Nanga Parbat 335 68 20.3% Шаблон:Efn
Annapurna I 191 61 31.9% 4.05%
Gasherbrum I
(Hidden Peak)
334 29 8.7% Шаблон:Efn
Broad Peak 404 21 5.2% Шаблон:Efn
Gasherbrum II 930 21 2.3% Шаблон:Efn
Shishapangma 302 25 8.3%

The extreme altitude and the fact that the summits of all eight-thousanders lie in the Death Zone mean that climber mortality (or death rate), is high.[30] Two metrics are quoted to establish a death rate (i.e. broad and narrow) that are used to rank the eight-thousanders in order of deadliest (note that they are also the world's overall deadliest mountains).[31][32]

  • Broad death rate: The first metric is the ratio of successful climbers summiting to total deathsШаблон:Efn on the mountain over a given period.[31] The Guinness Book of World Records uses this metric to name Annapurna I as the deadliest eight-thousander, and the world's deadliest mountain with roughly one person dying for every three people who successfully summit, i.e. a ratio of circa 30%.[33] Using consistent data from 1950 to 2012, mountaineering statistician Eberhard Jurgalski (see table below) used this metric to show Annapurna is the deadliest mountain (31.9%), followed by K2 (26.5%), Nanga Parbat (20.3%), Dhaulagiri (15.4%) and Kangchenjunga (14.1%).[31] Other statistical sources including MountainIQ, used a mix of data periods from 1900 to Spring 2021 but had similar results showing Annapurna still being the deadliest mountain (27.2%), followed by K2 (22.8%), Nanga Parbat (20.75%), Kangchenjunga (15%), and Dhaulagiri (13.5%).[32][30] Cho Oyu as the safest at 1.4%.[31][32]
  • Narrow death rate: The drawback of the first metric is that it includes the deaths of any support climbers or climbing sherpas that went above base camp in assisting the climb; therefore, rather than being the probability that a climber will die attempting to summit an eight-thousander, it is more akin to the total human cost in getting a climber to the summit.[28] In the Himalayan Database (HDB) tables, the climber (or member) "Death Rate" is the ratio of deaths above base camp, of all climbers who were hoping to summit and who went above base camp (calculated for 1950 to 2009), and is closer to a true probability of death (see table below).[28] The data is only for the Nepalese Himalaya and therefore does not include K2 or Nanga Parbat.[28] HDB estimates that the probability of death for a climber who is attempting the summit of an eight-thousander is still highest for Annapurna I (4%), followed by Kangchenjunga (3%) and Dhaulagiri (3%); the safest mountain is still Cho Oyu at 0.6%.[28]

The summary tables from the HDB report for all mountains above 8,000 meters also imply that the death rate of climbers for the period 1990 to 2009 (e.g. modern expeditions), is roughly half that of the combined 1950 to 2009 period, i.e. climbing is becoming safer for the climbers attempting the summit.[28]

List of first ascents

From 1950 to 1964, all 14 of the eight-thousanders were summited in the summer (the first was Annapurna I in 1950, and the last was Shishapangma in 1964), and from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter (the first being Everest in 1980, and the last being K2 in 2021).

First ascent and first winter ascent for each of the 14 eight-thousanders[26][27]
Mountain[26] First ascent[26] First winter ascent[26]
Name Height[34] Prom.[34] Country Date Summiter(s) Date Summiter(s)
Everest Шаблон:Convert[35] Шаблон:Convert Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
29 May 1953 Шаблон:Nowrap

Шаблон:Flagicon Шаблон:Nowrap
on British expedition

17 February 1980
Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
K2 Шаблон:Convert Шаблон:Convert Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap[36]
31 July 1954 Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap

on Italian expedition

16 January 2021[8] Шаблон:Flagicon Шаблон:FlagiconNirmal PurjaШаблон:Refn

Шаблон:Flagicon Gelje Sherpa
Шаблон:Flagicon Mingma David Sherpa
Шаблон:Flagicon Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
Шаблон:Flagicon Sona Sherpa
Шаблон:Flagicon Mingma Tenzi Sherpa
Шаблон:Flagicon Pem Chhiri Sherpa
Шаблон:Flagicon Dawa Temba Sherpa
Шаблон:Flagicon Kili Pemba Sherpa
Шаблон:Flagicon Dawa Tenjing Sherpa

Kangchenjunga Шаблон:Convert Шаблон:Convert Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap[37]
25 May 1955 Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
on British expedition
11 January 1986 Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Lhotse Шаблон:Convert Шаблон:Convert Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
18 May 1956 Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
31 December 1988 Шаблон:Nowrap
Makalu Шаблон:Convert Шаблон:Convert Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
15 May 1955 Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
9 February 2009 Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Cho Oyu Шаблон:Convert Шаблон:Convert Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
19 October 1954 Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
12 February 1985 Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Dhaulagiri I Шаблон:Convert Шаблон:Convert Шаблон:Nowrap 13 May 1960 Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
21 January 1985 Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Manaslu Шаблон:Convert Шаблон:Convert Шаблон:Nowrap 9 May 1956 Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
12 January 1984 Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Nanga Parbat Шаблон:Convert Шаблон:Convert Шаблон:Nowrap 3 July 1953 Шаблон:Nowrap
on German–Austrian expedition
26 February 2016 Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Annapurna I Шаблон:Convert Шаблон:Convert Шаблон:Nowrap 3 June 1950 Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap

on French expedition

3 February 1987 Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Gasherbrum I
(Hidden Peak)
Шаблон:Convert Шаблон:Convert Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
5 July 1958 Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
9 March 2012 Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Broad Peak Шаблон:Convert Шаблон:Convert Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
9 June 1957 Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
5 March 2013 Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Gasherbrum II Шаблон:Convert Шаблон:Convert Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
7 July 1956 Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
2 February 2011 Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Shishapangma Шаблон:Convert Шаблон:Convert Шаблон:Nowrap 2 May 1964 Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Flagicon Doji
Шаблон:Nowrap
14 January 2005 Шаблон:Nowrap
Шаблон:Nowrap

List of climbers of all 14

Шаблон:Multiple image There is no single undisputed source for verified Himalayan ascents.

Various mountaineering journals, including the Alpine Journal and the American Alpine Journal, also maintain extensive records and archives on expeditions to the eight-thousanders, but do not always opine on disputed ascents, and nor do they maintain registers or lists of verified ascents of the eight-thousanders.[1][38]

Elizabeth Hawley's The Himalayan Database,[39] is considered as an important source for verified ascents for the Nepalese Himalayas.[40][41] Online databases of Himalayan ascents pay close regard to The Himalayan Database, including the website AdventureStats.com,[42] and the Eberhard Jurgalski List.[1][38][43]

Verified ascents

Шаблон:Legend Шаблон:Legend Шаблон:Legend Шаблон:Legend Шаблон:Legend Шаблон:Legend Шаблон:Legend

The "No O2" column lists people who have climbed all 14 eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen.

List of climbers who have summited all 14 eight-thousanders[44]
Order Order
(No O2)
Name Period climbing
eight-thousanders
Born Age Nationality
1 1 Reinhold Messner 1970–1986 1944 42 Шаблон:Flagicon Italian
2 Jerzy Kukuczka 1979–1987 1948 39 Шаблон:Flagicon Polish
3 2 Erhard Loretan 1982–1995 1959 36 Шаблон:Flagicon Swiss
4 [45] Carlos Carsolio 1985–1996 1962 33 Шаблон:Flagicon Mexican
5 Krzysztof Wielicki 1980–1996 1950 46 Шаблон:Flagicon Polish
6 3 Juanito Oiarzabal 1985–1999 1956 43 Шаблон:Flagicon Spanish
7 Sergio Martini 1983–2000 1949 51 Шаблон:Flagicon Italian
8 Park Young-seok 1993–2001 1963 38 Шаблон:Flagicon Korean
9 Um Hong-gil 1988–2001 1960[46] 40 Шаблон:Flagicon Korean
10 4 Alberto Iñurrategi 1991–2002[47] 1968 33 Шаблон:Flagicon Spanish
11 Han Wang-yong 1994–2003 1966 37 Шаблон:Flagicon Korean
12 5[48] Ed Viesturs 1989–2005 1959 46 Шаблон:Flagicon American
13 6[49][50][51] Silvio Mondinelli 1993–2007 1958 49 Шаблон:Flagicon Italian
14 7[52] Iván Vallejo 1997–2008 1959 49 Шаблон:Flagicon Ecuadorian
15 8[53] Denis Urubko 2000–2009 1973 35 Шаблон:Flagicon Kazakhstani
16 Ralf Dujmovits 1990–2009 1961[54] 47 Шаблон:Flagicon German
17[55] 9[56] Veikka Gustafsson 1993–2009 1968 41 Шаблон:Flagicon Finnish
18[57] Andrew Lock 1993–2009 1961[58] 48 Шаблон:Flagicon Australian
19 10 João Garcia 1993–2010 1967 43 Шаблон:Flagicon Portuguese
20[59] Piotr Pustelnik 1990–2010 1951 58 Шаблон:Flagicon Polish
21[60] Edurne Pasaban 2001–2010 1973 36 Шаблон:Flagicon Spanish
22[61] Abele Blanc 1992–2011[62][63] 1954 56 Шаблон:Flagicon Italian
23 Mingma Sherpa 2000–2011[62] 1978 33 Шаблон:Flagicon Nepali
24 11 Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner 1998–2011[62] 1970 40 Шаблон:Flagicon Austrian
25 Шаблон:Ill 2001–2011[62] 1975 36 Шаблон:Flagicon Kazakhstani
26 12 Maxut Zhumayev 2001–2011[62] 1977 34 Шаблон:Flagicon Kazakhstani
27 Шаблон:Ill 2000–2011[62] 1961 50 Шаблон:Flagicon Korean
28[64] 13 Mario Panzeri 1988–2012 1964 48 Шаблон:Flagicon Italian
29[65] Hirotaka Takeuchi 1995–2012[65] 1971 41 Шаблон:Flagicon Japanese
30 Chhang Dawa Sherpa 2001–2013[62] 1982 30 Шаблон:Flagicon Nepali
31 14 Kim Chang-ho 2005–2013[62] 1970 43 Шаблон:Flagicon Korean
32 Шаблон:Ill 2002–2014[66] 1968 45 Шаблон:Flagicon Spanish
33 15 Radek Jaroš 1998–2014[62] 1964 50 Шаблон:Flagicon Czech
34/35[67] 16/17[67] Nives Meroi 1998–2017[68][69] 1961 55 Шаблон:Flagicon Italian
34/35[67] 16/17[67] Шаблон:Ill 1998–2017[68][69][70] 1962 55 Шаблон:Flagicon Italian / Шаблон:Flagicon Slovenian
36 Шаблон:Ill 1998–2017[71][72][73] 1964 52 Шаблон:Flagicon Slovak
37 18 Azim Gheychisaz 2008–2017[74] 1981 37 Шаблон:Flagicon Iranian
38 Ferran Latorre 1999–2017[75] 1970 46 Шаблон:Flagicon Spanish
39 19 Òscar Cadiach 1984–2017[76] 1952 64 Шаблон:Flagicon Spanish
40 Kim Mi-gon 2000–2018[77][78] 1973 45 Шаблон:Flagicon Korean
41 Sanu Sherpa 2006–2019[79] 1975 44 Шаблон:Flagicon Nepali
42 Nirmal Purja 2014–2019[21][80]Шаблон:Efn 1983 36 Шаблон:FlagiconBritishШаблон:R
43 Mingma Gyabu Sherpa 2010–2019[81][82] 1989 30 Шаблон:Flagicon Nepali
44 Kim Hong-bin 2006–2021[83][84][85] 1964 57 Шаблон:Flagicon Korean
45 Nima Gyalzen Sherpa 2004–2022[86][87] 1985 37 Шаблон:Flagicon Nepali
46 Dong Hong Juan 2015–2023[88][89] 1981 42 Шаблон:Flagicon Chinese
47 Kristin Harila 2021–2023[90][91] 1986 37 Шаблон:Flagicon Norwegian
48 Sophie Lavaud 2012–2023[92][93][94][95] 1968 55 Шаблон:Flagicon Swiss / Шаблон:Flagicon French / Шаблон:Flagicon Canadian
49 Tunç Fındık 2001–2023[94][95] 1972 51 Шаблон:Flagicon Turkish
50 Tenjen Lama Sherpa 2016–2023[24][25][96] 35[97] Шаблон:Flagicon Nepali
51 Gelje Sherpa 2017–2023[98][99][100] 1992[98] 30 Шаблон:Flagicon Nepali

Disputed ascents

Claims have been made for summiting all 14 peaks for which not enough evidence was provided to verify the ascent; the disputed ascent in each claim is shown in parentheses in the table below. In most cases, the Himalayan chronicler Elizabeth Hawley is considered a definitive source regarding the facts of the dispute. Her The Himalayan Database is the source for other online Himalayan ascent databases (e.g. AdventureStats.com).[40][41] The Eberhard Jurgalski List is also another important source for independent verification of claims to have summited all 14 eight-thousanders.[1][38]

Name and details Period climbing
eight-thousanders
Born Age Nationality
Шаблон:Ill (Lhotse 1997)[101]
Шаблон:Small
1983–1998 1952 46 Шаблон:Flagicon Italian
Alan Hinkes (Cho Oyu 1990)[102][103]
Шаблон:Small
1987–2005 1954 53 Шаблон:Flagicon British
Vladislav Terzyul (Shishapangma (West) 2000, Broad Peak 1995[104][105])[106][107]
Шаблон:Small
1993–2004
(deceased)
1953 49 Шаблон:Flagicon Ukrainian
Oh Eun-sun (Kangchenjunga 2009)[108][109][110]
Шаблон:Small[109]
1997–2010 1966 44 Шаблон:Flagicon Korean
Шаблон:Ill (Shishapangma 2012)[111]
Шаблон:Small[112]
2001–2013 1963 50 Шаблон:Flagicon Spanish
Zhang Liang (Shishapangma 2018)[113][114][115]
Шаблон:Small
2000–2018 1964 54 Шаблон:Flagicon Chinese

Verification issues

A recurrent problem with verification is the confirmation that the climber reached the true peak of the eight-thousander. Eight-thousanders present unique problems in this regard as they are so infrequently summited, their summits have not yet been exhaustively surveyed, and summiting climbers are often suffering the extreme altitude and weather effects of being in the death zone.[1][38]

Cho Oyu for example, is a recurrent problem eight-thousander as its true peak is a small hump about a thirty minutes walk into the large flat summit plateau that lies in the death zone. The true peak is often obscured in very poor weather, and this led to the disputed ascent (per the table above) of British climber, Alan Hinkes (who has refused to re-climb the peak).[116][117] Shishapangma is another problem peak because of its dual summits, which despite being close in height, are up to two hours climbing time apart and require the crossing of an exposed and dangerous snow ridge.[1][118] When Hawley judged that Ed Viesturs had not reached the true summit of Shishapangma (which she deduced from his summit photos and interviews), he then re-climbed the mountain to definitively establish his ascent.[119][1]

In a May 2021 interview with the New York Times, Jurgalski pointed out further issues with false summits on Annapurna I (a long ridge with multiple summits), Dhaulagiri (misleading false summit metal pole), and Manaslu (additional sharp and dangerous ridge to the true summit, like Shishapangma), noting that of the existing 44 accepted claims (as per the table earlier), at least 7 had serious question marks (these were in addition to the table of disputed ascents), and even noting that "It is possible that no one has ever been on the true summit of all 14 of the 8,000-meter peaks".[1] In June 2021, Australian climber Damien Gildea wrote an article in the American Alpine Journal on the work that Jurgalski and a team of international experts were doing in this area, including publishing detailed surveys of the problem summits using data from the German Aerospace Center.[38]

In July 2022, Jurgalski posted conclusions of the team's research (the wider team being of Rodolphe Popier and Tobias Pantel of The Himalayan Database, and Damien Gildea, Federico Bernardi, Bob Schelfhout Aubertijn, and Thaneswar Guragai). According to their analysis, only three climbers, Ed Viesturs, Veikka Gustafsson and Nirmal Purja have stood on the true summit of all 14 eight-thousanders, and no female climber had yet done so.[2] Viesturs is also the first to have done so without the use of oxygen.[2] Jurgalski allowed for the fact that they had deliberately not stood on the true summit of Kangchenjunga out of religious respect.[2] The team has not formally published their work, and according to Popier, they had not decided about "the best respectful form to present it".[2]

Proposed expansion

In 2012, to relieve capacity pressure and overcrowding on the world's highest mountain, greater restrictions were placed on expeditions to the summit of Mount Everest.[120] To address the growing capacity constraints, Nepal lobbied the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (or UIAA) to reclassify five subsidiary summits (two on Lhotse and three on Kanchenjunga), as standalone eight-thousanders, while Pakistan lobbied for a sixth subsidiary summit (on Broad Peak) as a standalone eight-thousander.[121] See table below for list of all subsidiary summits of eight-thousander mountains.

In 2012, the UIAA initiated the ARUGA Project, with an aim to see if these six new Шаблон:Cvt-plus peaks could feasibly achieve international recognition.[121] The proposed six new eight-thousander peaks have a topographic prominence above Шаблон:Cvt, but none would meet the wider UIAA prominence threshold of Шаблон:Cvt (the lowest prominence of the existing 14 eight-thousanders is Lhotse, at Шаблон:Convert).[122][123] Critics noted that of the six proposed, only Broad Peak Central, with a prominence of Шаблон:Convert, would even meet the Шаблон:Convert prominence threshold to be a British Isles Marilyn.[122] The appeal noted the UIAA's 1994 reclassification of Alpine four-thousander peaks used a prominence threshold of Шаблон:Cvt,Шаблон:Efn amongst other criteria; the logic being that if Шаблон:Cvt worked for Шаблон:Cvt summits, then Шаблон:Cvt is proportional for Шаблон:Cvt summits.[124]

Шаблон:As of, there has been no conclusion by the UIAA and the proposals appear to have been set aside.

Шаблон:Legend

List of the subsidiary peaks of the 14 eight-thousanders.[125]
Proposed new eight-thousander Height
(m)
Prominence
(m)
Dominance
(Prom / Height)[126]
Dominance
classification[126]
Broad Peak Central 8011 181 2,26 B2
Kangchenjunga W-Peak (Yalung Kang) 8505 135 1,59 C1
Kangchenjunga S-Peak 8476 116 1,37 C2
Kangchenjunga C-Peak 8473 63 0,74 C2
Lhotse C-Peak I (Lhotse Middle) 8410 65 0,77 C2
Lhotse Shar 8382 72 0,86 C2
K 2 SW-Peak 8580 30 0,35 D1
Lhotse C-Peak II 8372 37 0,44 D1
Everest W-Peak 8296 30 0,36 D1
Yalung Kang Shoulder 8200 40 0,49 D1
Kangchenjunga SE-Peak 8150 30 0,37 D1
K 2 P. 8134 (SW-Ridge) 8134 35 0,43 D1
Annapurna C-Peak 8013 49 0,61 D1
Nanga Parbat S-Peak 8042 30 0,37 D1
Annapurna E-Peak 7986 65 0,81 C2
Shisha Pangma C-Peak 8008 30 0,37 D1
Everest NE-Shoulder 8423 19 0,23 D2
Everest NE-Pinnacle III 8383 13 0,16 D2
Lhotse N-Pinnacle III 8327 10 0,12 D2
Lhotse N-Pinnacle II 8307 12 0,14 D2
Lhotse N-Pinnacle I 8290 10 0,12 D2
Everest NE-Pinnacle II 8282 25 0,30 D2

Gallery

See also

Шаблон:Portal

Notes

Шаблон:Notelist

References

Шаблон:Reflist

External links

Шаблон:Eight-thousander Шаблон:Climbing navbox

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