Английская Википедия:Entremet
Шаблон:Short description Шаблон:Hatnote
Шаблон:Meals An entremet or entremets (Шаблон:IPAc-en; Шаблон:IPA-fr; from Old French, literally meaning "between servings") in French cuisine historically referred to small dishes served between courses but in modern times more commonly refers to a type of dessert.
In the Late Middle Ages and the early modern period, an entremet marked the end of a course of the meal and could be a culinary preparation like frumenty (a type of wheat porridge) that was brightly colored and flavored with exotic and expensive spices, or elaborate models of castles complete with wine fountains, musicians, and food modeled into allegorical scenes. By the end of the Middle Ages, entremets had also evolved into dinner entertainment in the form of inedible ornaments or acted performances, often full of the symbolism of power and regality. In English, such displays were more commonly known as a subtlety (also sotelty or soteltie); they did not typically include acted entertainment, but did include culinary jokes like live blackbirds flying out of a pie, a scene immortalized in the folk song "Sing a Song of Sixpence".
Early use of the term
The word entremets as a culinary term first appears in the lai, Lanval, by Marie de France, line 185 (1155 × 1170), and subsequently in La Vengeance Raguidel, line 315 (early 13th century). The word has no discernible specialized meaning in the texts, but in both, it appears in the context of a meal.Шаблон:Efn
The earliest text to include entremets as culinary preparations is Le Viandier (c. 1300), which includes fourteen recipes under the heading "entremets".Шаблон:Sfn Entremets also appear in Le Ménagier de Paris (1393),Шаблон:Sfn Du fait de cuisine (1420),Шаблон:Sfn and the Livre fort excellent de cuysine (1542).Шаблон:EfnШаблон:Sfn
In Du fait de cuisine, entremets are served at dinner at the end of each stage of the meal, or mets (a serving of several dishes laid on the table together). In the menusШаблон:Efn of the Livre fort, only one entremets is mentioned, and it is placed at the end of a "second service of roasts". The entremets served as a sort of pause between the mets, and they were often brightly colored with plant dyes to provide a sort of visual entertainment.Шаблон:Sfn
Late-Medieval entremets
Over time, entremets became popular as illusion foods, such as peacocks or swans that were skinned, cooked, and redressed in their original plumage; or scenes depicting human activities, such as a knight in the form of a grilled capon equipped with a paper helmet and lance, sitting on the back of a roast piglet.Шаблон:Sfn Elaborate models of castles made from edible material were also popular. At a feast in 1343 dedicated to Pope Clement VI, one of the entremets was a castle with walls made from roast birds, populated with cooked and redressed deer, wild boar, goat, hare, and rabbit. Шаблон:Sfn
In the 14th century, entremets began to involve not just eye-catching displays of high-status cuisine, but also more prominent and often highly symbolic forms of inedible entertainment. In 1306, the knighting of the son of Edward I included performances of chansons de geste in what has been assumed to be part of the entremet.Шаблон:Sfn During the course of the 14th century they would often take on the character of theatrical displays, complete with props, actors, singers, mummers and dancers. At a banquet held in 1378 by Charles V of France in honor of Emperor Charles IV, a huge wooden model of the city of Jerusalem was rolled in before the high table. Actors portraying the crusader Godfrey of Bouillon and his knights then sailed into the hall on a miniature ship and reenacted the capture of Jerusalem in 1099.Шаблон:Sfn
Entremets made an effective tool for political displays. One of the most famous examples is the so-called Feast of the Pheasant, arranged by Philip the Good of Burgundy in 1454. The theme of the banquet was the fall of Constantinople to the Ottoman Turks in 1453, and included a vow by Philip and his guests to retake the city in a crusade, though this was never realized. There were several spectacular displays at the banquet referred to by contemporary witnesses as entremets. Guests were entertained by a wide range of extravagant displays of automatons in the form of fountains and pies containing musicians. At the end of the banquet, an actor representing the Holy Church rode in on an elephant and read a poem about the plight of Eastern Christianity under Ottoman rule.Шаблон:Sfn
From the late 14th century on in England, entremets are referred to as subtleties. This English term was derived from an older meaning of "subtle" as "clever" or "surprising".Шаблон:Sfn The meaning of "subtlety" did not include entertainment involving actors; those were referred to as pageants.Шаблон:Sfn The "four and twenty blackbirds baked in a pie", in the nursery rhyme "Sing a Song of Sixpence", has its genesis in an entremet presented to amuse banquet guests in the 14th century. This extravaganza of hospitality was related by an Italian cook of the era.Шаблон:Sfn “Live birds were slipped into a baked pie shell through a hole cut in its bottom.” The unwary guest would release the flapping birds once the upper crust was cut into.Шаблон:Sfn
At the end of the Middle Ages, the level of refinement among the noble and royal courts of Europe had increased considerably, and the demands of powerful hosts and their rich dinner guests resulted in ever more complicated and elaborate creations. Chiquart, cook to Amadeus VIII, Duke of Savoy, described an entremet entitled Castle of Love in his 15th-century culinary treatise Du fait de cuisine ("On cookery"). It consisted of a giant castle model with four towers, carried in by four men. The castle contained, among other things, a roast piglet, a swan cooked and redressed in its own plumage, a roast boar's head and a pike cooked and sauced in three different ways without having been cut into pieces, all of them breathing fire.Шаблон:Efn The battlements of the castle were adorned with the banners of the Duke and his guests, manned by miniature archers, and inside the castle there was a fountain that gushed rosewater and spiced wine.Шаблон:Sfn
Noteworthy for its entertainment value to the assembled nobles of the time, the 17th century provided a memorable banquet event courtesy of the host, the Duke of Buckingham. In honor of his royal guests, Charles I and Queen Henrietta Maria, a pie was prepared concealing a human being — famous dwarf of the era, Jeffrey Hudson.Шаблон:Sfn
"Classical Order" of service
In the Livre fort, the meal is presented in four stages, each composed of one or more mets: the entree de table (entrance to the table), potaiges (foods boiled or simmered "in pots"), services de rost (meat or fowl "roasted" in dry heat), and issue de table (departure from the table).Шаблон:Sfn Between the mid-16th and mid-17th century, the stages of the meal underwent several significant changes. Notably, the entrée became the second stage of the meal, potage became the first, and entremets came to be served in their own stage of the meal. The term "entremets" then came to refer not just to a type of dish, but also to the fourth stage of the meal, after the soups, entrées (including hors d’oeuvre and relevés), and roasts, and before the dessert. Шаблон:Sfn
While cookbooks and dictionaries of the 17th and 18th centuries rarely discuss the type of dishes appropriate to each stage of the meal with any specificity, entremets and the dishes of the other stages can be distinguished from each other by certain characteristics, such as their ingredients, cooking methods, and serving temperatures.Шаблон:Sfn The distinct characteristics of the entremets were at first loosely observed, but by the early 18th century, certain ingredients and cooking methods were increasingly confined to the entremets stage of the meal.Шаблон:Sfn
In the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries, entremets on meat daysШаблон:Efn included butchers' meats, suckling pig, fowl, furred and feathered game, and offal, all of which were also used for entrées. Entremets additionally included ham, eggs, vegetables, and fruits, ingredients that were used sparingly or not at all for entrées.Шаблон:Sfn
Entremets were often chilled dishes, being the only chilled dishes of the meal served before dessert. Many entremets were entrées that had been chilled, including cold braises and stews of meat and fowl, and cold pâtés and pies of meat, game, and fowl.Шаблон:Sfn Other chilled entremets included salads, aspics, custards, and forcemeat spread on toast.Шаблон:Sfn
Ham, rare as an entrée, was almost exclusively served as an entremets, either hot or cold. Offal was similarly served either hot or cold, as either an entrée or an entremets.Шаблон:Sfn Eggs were sometimes served as entremets on meat days, but they were most commonly served as entrées on lean days.Шаблон:Sfn
Vegetables, which were never served alone as entrées, were served hot as entremets.Шаблон:Sfn Fritters and other fried dishes of fruits, vegetables, cheese, or offal were also served hot as entremets.Шаблон:Sfn
Various sweet dishes were served as entremets, and while they were generally presented alongside the savory entremets, sweet entremets were consumed after savory ones. Dried, preserved, and raw fruit were components of the dessert stage of the meal and were not served as entremets.Шаблон:Sfn
On lean days, fish replaced meat and fowl in every stage of the meal. Fish served as entremets were most often fried; more rarely, they were marinated and stewed, preparations that were otherwise uncommon for entremets. Chilled aspics, pies, and pâtés made of fish were also served as entremets. Many other entremets that did not include meat were served on both meat and lean days, such as vegetables and, out of Lent, eggs and custards.Шаблон:Sfn
Modern usage
In modern times, the definition of "entremet" evolved to refer to a multi-layer dessert composed of various elements.[1][2] The dessert typically comprises a sponge cake base, mousse filling and layers of inserted set elements such as creams, jellies and compotes.[3] Each element is created in individual rings or molds before being assembled into layers in another mold to build the entremet; a mousse is added to surround these layers and form the body of the dessert.[3][4] After setting in the freezer, a mirror glaze or coating is usually added to the exterior of the entremet.[4]
See also
- Шаблон:Annotated link
- Шаблон:Annotated link
- Шаблон:Annotated link
- Шаблон:Annotated link
- Шаблон:Annotated link
- Шаблон:Annotated link
Notes, references, and sources
Notes
References
Sources
- Шаблон:Cite book
- Шаблон:Cite book
- Шаблон:Cite book
- Шаблон:Cite book
- Шаблон:Cite book
- Шаблон:Cite book
- Шаблон:Cite book
- Шаблон:Cite book
- Шаблон:Cite book
- Шаблон:Cite book
- Шаблон:Cite book
- Шаблон:Cite book
- Шаблон:Cite book
External links
Шаблон:Wiktionary Шаблон:Commons
- How to Cook Medieval - A guide on how to make medieval cuisine and subtleties with modern ingredients
- Wikibooks Cookbook
