Английская Википедия:Eri silk in Meghalaya

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Шаблон:Multiple issues Eri silk, a prized fabric woven from the cocoons of domesticated silkworms, holds a special place in the rich cultural heritage of Meghalaya, a state in northeastern India. Known for its durability, unique texture, and eco-friendly production methods, Eri silk, locally referred to as Ryndia, showcases the exceptional craftsmanship and weaving traditions of the indigenous tribes in the region. Eri silk production also provides livelihood to families in the region. It is a traditional art inherited from generation to generation and treated as a means of occupation, making the clusters self sustaining communities. This exquisite fabric, cherished as an heirloom and passed down through generations, represents not just a material, but a tapestry of cultural identity and artistic expression in Meghalaya.

Ryndia Shawls

Eri Silk Shawls

Weaving with Eri Silk "Ryndia" in Meghalaya

Made from the domesticated silkworm Samia Cynthia Ricini, Eri Silk, locally known as Ryndia, is a renowned traditional fabric woven by the tribes of Meghalaya. Ryndia derives its name from the Castor leaves called 'Rynda,' which serve as the primary food source for the silkworms. Regarded as an heirloom among local communities in Meghalaya, Ryndia holds significant cultural value and is often passed down from mothers to daughters within families.Шаблон:Cn

The Ri-Bhoi District is a prominent region in Meghalaya where Eri culture and handloom weaving continue to thrive. Weaving with Eri silk is an integral part of the district's culture and heritage, handed down through generations. Exclusively carried out by women, the process involves spinning and weaving using traditional tools such as the Takli and other handmade devices. The entire value chain, including silkworm rearing, application of natural dyes, and weaving, takes place within the state. Women in Meghalaya actively engage in the rearing and weaving of Eri Silk, making it a household activity exclusively conducted by them.Шаблон:Cn

Eri Silk, commonly referred to as 'Peace Silk' or the 'Fabric of Peace,' is named so due to the non-violent method of silk extraction practised for generations in Meghalaya, which does not harm or kill the silkworms. This unique silk variant possesses a thicker texture and exhibits wool-like characteristics. Ryndia, known for its durability, surpasses other silk fabrics, making it an heirloom material passed down through generations in Meghalaya. A distinguishing feature of Ryndia woven in Meghalaya is its 100% natural dyeing process, using plants and plant parts such as turmeric, onion skins, and plant-based mordants like Sohkhu and Soh tung. These dyeing techniques are exclusively practised by weavers in Ri-Bhoi, Meghalaya.Шаблон:Cn

Ri-Bhoi District serves as the epicentre of Eri Silk weaving in Meghalaya and is among the various regions where Eri culture and handloom weaving are deeply rooted in tradition. The process of spinning and weaving Eri silk is exclusively carried out by women, employing traditional tools such as the Takli and other handmade implements.

Traditional Looms Used for Weaving Ryndia

• Thain Madan

The traditional weaving of Eri silk in Meghalaya is performed on a floor loom known locally as 'Thain Madan,' which translates to 'weaving on the floor' in the Khasi language. The loom itself is a simple structure meticulously handcrafted by local artisans using bamboo and wood. Setting up the loom requires a time investment of 2–3 days, and each warp is only sufficient for weaving a single shawl. Several essential components constitute the loom, including the Luwi (string heddles), which are employed to establish a shed between the warp threads with each new warp. Additionally, the Snad, a bamboo reed, is used to thread the warp threads and beat the cloth after each pick or row of weft.Шаблон:Cn

In Ri-Bhoi, some weavers still uphold the practice of weaving on the Thain Madan, and the local community highly regards fabrics woven using this method as being of exceptional quality.Шаблон:Cn

• Thain Ra

'Thain Ra' is the name of a loom utilized by weavers in Plasha and other communities of Ri-Bhoi. This loom bears a resemblance to an upgraded version of the floor loom employed by Ri-Bhoi weavers, incorporating elements from both the floor loom and the frame loom. The various components of the loom are meticulously handcrafted from bamboo, and one notable distinction is its elevated position above the ground, achieved by using bamboo supports and incorporating a sitting area.

In Thain Ra, the weaving process is manually executed without the use of a shuttle, with the reed and the heald being utilized in a similar manner to weaving on a frame loom. Weavers employ this loom for weaving with Eri silk or cotton.Шаблон:Cn

In addition to these traditional looms, weavers also make use of frame looms and flying shuttle looms introduced by the government to foster weaving practices and enhance productivity among the local artisans.Шаблон:Cn

Weaving Tools Used for Weaving Ryndia

• Takli or Ka Phri

In Ri-Bhoi, weavers employ locally handcrafted tools to weave Eri silk, such as the Takli or Ka Phri. These tools play a crucial role in the initial stages of the weaving process, specifically in drafting the Eri silk fibers from the cocoon cakes.

The Takli is a handheld spinning tool comprising a spindle with a disc-like base. It is utilized for hand spinning, with the spinner holding the cocoon cake in their left hand while drafting the strand with their right hand onto the spindle. The Ka Phri, also known as "Ka Khlieh Phri" locally, refers to the head or top part of the Takli. It is designed as a round disk that adds weight to the Takli, facilitating the process of fiber retention on the spindle during drafting.

• Khwah

Following the drafting process with the Takli or Ka Phri, the Eri fiber is transferred to the Khwah. The Khwah is a tool where the Eri fiber is wound in a crisscross pattern, starting from the centre. In the local language, this specific tool is referred to as the Sohpet Khwah, which translates to "belly button" in English.Шаблон:Cn

By winding the fiber in this manner on the Sohpet Khwah, it forms a skein, which greatly facilitates the subsequent step of winding it onto the bobbin for weaving purposes.Шаблон:Cn

The unique and eco-friendly practice of natural dyeing Ryndia in Meghalaya

Meghalaya, particularly the weavers from Ri-Bhoi District, employs environmentally friendly methods by utilizing natural ingredients for dyeing Eri Silk. These ingredients include flowers, leaves, vegetable peels, and tree bark, which are collected by women weavers from nearby forests.

What distinguishes the natural dyeing process in this region is the utilization of natural dye fixatives or mordants that help the natural colours adhere to the yarn. Some examples of these natural mordants include Sohkhu tree leaves (Baccaurea ramiflora lour), tree bark of Diengrnong (local name), Sohtung leaves (Terminalia chebula retz), and others.

The weavers of Ri-Bhoi have recorded the use of thirty-three plant species for creating natural organic colours to dye Eri-silk yarns. These dyestuffs and mordants are obtained from locally available plants and plant parts, such as leaves, bark, fruits, stems, and peels. Most of these plants are naturally grown, while some are cultivated in the weavers' backyards specifically for colour extraction.Шаблон:Cn

Preserving the Traditional Art of Weaving

In recognition of the significance of the traditional weaving of Eri Silk and natural dyeing Umden in Meghalaya, the Department of Textiles declared Diwon, Raid Nongtluh, located in Ri-Bhoi, as the State's first Eri Silk Village on February 12, 2021.

The village of Umden boasts a community of skilled weavers and master dyers who not only produce Ryndia fabrics to meet local demands but also fulfil orders from customers nationwide and even internationally.Шаблон:Cn

This declaration serves as an inspiration for the weavers and spinners in Umden to continue their weaving traditions, fostering the development of a self-reliant and vibrant community that exemplifies women's empowerment.