Английская Википедия:Fengguan
Шаблон:Short descriptionШаблон:Infobox Chinese
Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Zh), also known as phoenix coronet or phoenix hat,[1][2] is a type of Шаблон:Transliteration (a type of Chinese traditional headgear) for women in Шаблон:Transliteration. It was worn mainly by noblewomen for ceremonies or official occasions. It is also traditional headgear for brides and could be worn in set of Traditional Chinese wedding dress attire, such as the Шаблон:Transliteration.
Terminology
Шаблон:Transliteration literally means "phoenix crown" in English language, a name that originates from its adornments: phoenixes made of inlaid kingfisher feathers, as well as gold dragons, beaded pheasants, pearls, and other gemstones. One of the earliest phoenix crowns that has been excavated belonged to Empress Xiao of the Sui dynasty.Шаблон:Sfnp The type became most popular during the Ming dynasty, with many changes made over time.
History
Шаблон:Transliteration evolved from Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Zh), the Chinese hairpin worn by empresses and emperor's concubines. The wearing of Шаблон:Transliteration was issued by Emperor Qin Shihuang (259BC–210BC).[3] It was in Eastern Jin (317–420 AD) that the word Шаблон:Transliteration first came up; however, it was referring to the hairpin which was imitating the comb of Chinese phoenix.[4]
The earliest Шаблон:Transliteration discovered was the crown of Empress Xiao of the Sui dynasty, unearthed from the Emperor Yang of Sui's tomb in 2013. The crown was made under the order of Emperor Taizong of Tang after the empress's death.[5] The artifact was protect-repaired and studied in Shaanxi Provincial Cultural Heritage Administration; later, a replica was made based on the studies.[6]
Construction and design
Kingfisher feathers were extremely rare during the Ming Dynasty and were potentially sourced from Cambodia.Шаблон:Sfnp The numbers of phoenixes, dragons and precious gems on each crown is different. For example, the phoenix crown of Ming Empress Xiaoduanxian has 6 dragons, 3 phoenixes, 5,449 pearls, 71 rubies, and 57 sapphires.Шаблон:CN Other phoenix crowns of empresses excavated from the Ming tombs have 9 phoenixes, between 12 and 9 dragons, more than 3,500 pearls, and more than 150 gemstones.Шаблон:CN The pearls, gemstones and kingfisher feathers were made into ornamental flowers, leaves, clouds, and temple ornaments (Шаблон:Zh; the 'wings' at the sides and back of the crown). The weight of the entire crown can range from Шаблон:Convert.Шаблон:Sfnp
Styles
There are different varieties of Шаблон:Transliteration. The number of dragons, phoenixes and pheasants, in addition to the presence of certain ornaments was dictated by rank.
Empresses
Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Lang-zh) is the 12-dragons-9-phoenixes crown.
Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Lang-zh) is the 9-dragons-9-phoenixes crown.
Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Lang-zh) is the 9-dragons-4-phoenixes crown.
Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Lang-zh) is the 6-dragons-3-phoenixes crown.
Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Lang-zh) is the 3-dragons-2-phoenixes crown.
Only the crowns of empresses and crown princesses (wife of crown prince) can have temple ornaments adorned, with the empress's crown having 6 blades of temple ornaments (3 on each side).
Imperial concubines and princesses
Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Lang-zh), Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Lang-zh) and Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Lang-zh), adorned with beaded pheasants and gold phoenixes, are worn by royal concubines and princesses (includes wives of princes), with the number of pheasants representing the wearer's royal rank. The crown princess can only have 4 blades of temple ornaments (2 on each side)
Noblewomen
All other noblewomen/wives and daughters of officials wear the pearl-and-emerald crown (Шаблон:Lang-zh), where the crown is just adorned with pearls and gemstones (in various ornamental shapes).Шаблон:Sfnp Phoenix crowns worn with Шаблон:Transliteration have no strings of pearls by the sides of the head. Noblewomen cannot have temple ornaments on their headdresses.
Wedding
Coloured hats worn by commoner women on their wedding ceremony during the Ming and Qing dynasty was also called Шаблон:Transliteration.[1] The practice is believed to have started during Southern Song when the Emperor rewarded a girl for saving his life.[2] Women wearing the Шаблон:Transliteration as part of their set of wedding clothing has been a long tradition in the area of Zhejiang.[7] The Шаблон:Transliteration was a symbol of good fortune.[2] However, women who were remarrying for a second times and who were to be become a man's concubine were not allowed to wear Шаблон:Transliteration.[2]
Gallery
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Tang Dynasty phoenix crown worn by Empress Consort Wu
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Ming Dynasty phoenix crown worn with diyi
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Ming Dynasty phoenix crown with strings of pearls
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Ming Dynasty noblewoman wearing a crown with 9 pheasants and traditional Ming dress, known as fengguan xiapei
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Ming Dynasty noblewoman wearing a crown with 5 pheasants and traditional Ming dress
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View of the reverse of a Ming Dynasty empress' phoenix crown with 3 dragons and 3 phoenixes.
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Bride wearing a phoenix crown for a wedding
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Diyi worn with phoenix crown
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Dashan (大衫) worn with phoenix crown (side view)
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Ming Dynasty phoenix crown with 9 dragons and 9 phoenixes.
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Ming Dynasty phoenix crown with 9 dragons and 9 phoenixes.
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The empress of the Ming Dynasty,wearing a crown and wore traditional Ming costume.
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The empress of the Ming Dynasty,wearing a crown and wore traditional Ming costume.
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Three dragons and two phoenix crowns in Ming Dynasty.
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Ming Dynasty phoenix crown with 6 dragons and 3 phoenixes belonging to Empress Xiaoduanxian
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Fengguan of empresses in Song Dynasty
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Fengguan of empresses in Song Dynasty
Related content
See also
References
Notes
Шаблон:Reflist Шаблон:Refbegin Шаблон:Refend
Cited works
Шаблон:Types of Han Chinese clothing Шаблон:Folk costume
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