Английская Википедия:Figure-eight loop
Шаблон:Short description Шаблон:Infobox knot
Figure-eight loop (also figure-eight on a bight, figure-eight follow-through, figure-eight retrace, Flemish loop, or Flemish eight) is a type of knot created by a loop on the bight. It is used in climbing and caving.
The double figure eight is used to put a loop in the end of a rope, or around an object. It is relatively easy to tie and is secure, but can become difficult to untie after heavy loading, and can jam badly in any rope type.
Tying methods
On a bight
A figure-eight loop is created by doubling the rope into a bight, then tying the standard figure-eight knot.
In climbing, this knot is used to save time when repeatedly attaching the rope to climbing harnesses, using locking carabiners, such as when a group of people are climbing on the same top-rope.[1]
Follow-through
Alternatively, to tie the knot directly around an object, the follow-through method must be used.
- Tie a regular figure eight knot with a significant amount of extra tail.
- Loop the tail around the object.
- Thread the tail back through the figure eight to create a normal looking figure eight on a bight.
Climbing
This is the standard method for attaching a rope to a climbing harness.[2][3]
Often an additional strangle knot (which is half of a double fisherman's knot) "backup knot" is tied in the tail of the figure 8.[4][5][6][7] This is not required for the knot's integrity during climbing,[2][1][8][9][10][11] but could prevent ring-loading failure if belaying from the rope loop (instead of a dedicated belay loop).[12][13] It also ensures that adequate tail length has been included, and gets excess tail out of the way.[14] If the finish knot is not included, the tail should be 4 to 8 inches long.[2][15][16][17][9] The tail can also be tucked back into the knot, called a "Yosemite finish" or "Yosemite tuck".[18] This holds the bottom loop open, making the knot easier to untie after falling, but also making it weaker in a ring-loading configuration.[19][20]
The diameter of the loop should be kept small, to avoid being caught on protrusions while falling, or clipped into accidentally while lead climbing.[2] A well-dressed knot has a symmetrical appearance, with the strands parallel through each curve.[2][21]
See also
References
External links
- Шаблон:Animated Knots
- Photographs showing how to tie the figure of 8 loop knot
- Notable Knot Index - Figure 8 Loop
- Video of a figure-eight loop being stressed until breaking, showing that stopper knot is not needed.
- ↑ 1,0 1,1 Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ 2,0 2,1 2,2 2,3 2,4 Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite news
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Timothy W. Kidd, Jennifer Hazelrigs, Шаблон:ISBN Rock climbing. Wilderness Education Association (U.S.) "There is great debate about whether the [Figure Eight] knot is finished at this point. Some people think stopping at this point is sufficient; others believe that since your life depends on this knot, you should back it up. ...The most common backup knot is a [strangle knkot]."
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ 9,0 9,1 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
