Английская Википедия:Futou
Шаблон:Short description Шаблон:Italic titleШаблон:Infobox Chinese
Futou (Шаблон:Lang-zh; also pronounced and written as Шаблон:Transliteration), also known as Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Lang-zh) and Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Lang-zh),[1] was one of the most important forms of Chinese headwear in ancient China with a history of more than one thousand years.[2] The Шаблон:Transliteration first appeared in Northern Zhou under the reign of Emperor Wu where it became prevalent.[2] It was also commonly worn in the Tang and Song dynasties.[3]Шаблон:Rp The Шаблон:Transliteration was typically worn by government officials.[4] The Шаблон:Transliteration was originally turban-like headwear which was tied at the back of its wearer's head, with the two corners going to opposite directions and acting as decorations.[5] From the Sui to the Ming dynasties, the Шаблон:Transliteration evolved and was developed based on the Шаблон:Transliteration.[2] The Шаблон:Transliteration eventually came to assume a variety of shapes and styles.[3]Шаблон:Rp The shape of the Шаблон:Transliteration worn by the government officials in the Song and Ming dynasties, the latter known as the Шаблон:Transliteration (烏紗帽), was based on the Шаблон:Transliteration of the Tang dynasty.[3]Шаблон:Rp
The Шаблон:Transliteration was also introduced in both Unified Silla and Balhae[6]Шаблон:Rp and continued to be worn by government officials until the late Joseon.[7]Шаблон:Rp The Шаблон:Transliteration with a Шаблон:Transliteration (lining) was also introduced back in the Sogdian areas in Central Asia spreading to the Western regions through the Xinjiang region.[2] The Шаблон:Transliteration with Шаблон:Transliteration was also introduced in Japan during the Nara period through Prince Shōtaku.[2] Đại Cồ Việt was introduced to the Шаблон:Transliteration in the late 10th century and adapted various iterations from the Early Lê to the Nguyễn dynasty.[8]Шаблон:Rp
Terminology
The term Шаблон:Transliteration (or Шаблон:Transliteration) (Шаблон:Lang-zh) means "head scarf" or "head-cloth".[3]Шаблон:Rp According to the Шаблон:Transliteration by Bi Zhongxun, the original meaning of Шаблон:Transliteration was to "cover one's head with a black cloth" before the Sui dynasty.[9]
The English term "feet", which is used to describe the hard ribbons used in the Шаблон:Transliteration, is called Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Lang-zh).[10]Шаблон:Rp
The Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Lang-zh) refers to a lining used inside the Шаблон:Transliteration; it began to be used in 614 AD, and its purpose was to make the Шаблон:Transliteration look more straight and beautiful in terms of appearance.[2]
History
Origins
There are varying opinions on the origins of the Шаблон:Transliteration in the literature. According to Chinese scholar Sun Ji in From Futou to Turban (Шаблон:Lang-zh), the Шаблон:Transliteration first appeared in the 3rd century AD and was based on the headdress of a northern tribe.[3]Шаблон:Rp
Guzel Maitdinova proposed in 1990 that the Шаблон:Transliteration may have been developed from hats worn in ancient Central Asia and was brought in by the Turks from Sogdiana to Tokharistan to China, based on information provided by Hsen Kuo, an 11th century Chinese annalist:[11]Шаблон:Rp
It is also proposed by Yatsenko that the Шаблон:Transliteration was part of the Chinese male costume.[11]Шаблон:Rp
Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern dynasties
The origins of the Шаблон:Transliteration in China can be traced back to the reign of Emperor Wu in Northern Zhou,[2] who had wrapped his head with a Шаблон:Transliteration with four ribbons, called Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Lang-zh) or Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Lang-zh); two of those ribbons were tied at the back and left hanging down, while the other two were tied inversely at the top of the head.[10]Шаблон:Rp According to the Шаблон:Transliteration, Emperor Wu created the Шаблон:Transliteration by cutting the Шаблон:Transliteration.[12] According to ancient texts, Emperor Wu created the Шаблон:Transliteration to protect the hair of his generals and soldiers in battles.[9]
The Шаблон:Transliteration first appeared a type of kerchief made by cutting a piece of muslin fabric into the proper size and by attaching four long and wide ribbons at each corner of the fabric like four feet.[10]Шаблон:Rp[2] This Шаблон:Transliteration was large enough to cover all the hair of its wearer,[10]Шаблон:Rp and when it was worn, a kerchief had to be placed on the top of its wearer's head.[2] Two of these ribbons were tied on the forehead while the other two were tied at the back of the wearer's head and was left hanging down.[2][10]Шаблон:Rp Prior to the Sui dynasty, the Шаблон:Transliteration was a black piece of cloth.[9]
Sui, Tang dynasty, and Five dynasties and ten kingdoms period
Tang dynasty
Prior to the Song dynasty, the Шаблон:Transliteration was mostly made of black muslin.[10]Шаблон:Rp In the early Tang, the Шаблон:Transliteration was a Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Lang-zh),[13] where all four ribbons were allowed to hang down after being tied.[10]Шаблон:Rp Later on, the early Tang dynasty minister, Ma Zhou, was the first person to use a square kerchief in order to tie a Шаблон:Transliteration and was also the person who added a lining to shape his Шаблон:Transliteration making it more beautiful.[9] The lining which was added to the inside of the Шаблон:Transliteration from the year 614 AD was called Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Lang-zh); the Шаблон:Transliteration was used to make the Шаблон:Transliteration look more straight and beautiful in terms of appearance.[2] After being cut into the desired shape, the Шаблон:Transliteration was painted black with lacquer and would then be covered by the Шаблон:Transliteration.[2] The Шаблон:Transliteration was made with soft and light tung wood and with other materials such as bamboo strips, timbo, miscanthus, silk, and leather.[2] It was also possible to line the Шаблон:Transliteration with a mount-shaped item made out of paulownia (Шаблон:Lang-zh) in the front.[10]Шаблон:Rp[13] The step-by-step process to wear the Шаблон:Transliteration with Шаблон:Transliteration was to tie the hair up in a topknot, followed by covering the topknot with the Шаблон:Transliteration as hard lining, then wrapping the head and the Шаблон:Transliteration with a black, square-shaped piece of cloth, and finally tying the cloth in the desired style.[9] The Шаблон:Transliteration with Шаблон:Transliteration then became the standard form of Шаблон:Transliteration in the early Tang dynasty.[9] A form of Шаблон:Transliteration with Шаблон:Transliteration was a kerchief with two corners attached with two ribbons in opposite directions of each other; the ribbons would then be tied at the back of the wearer's head, allowing the two back ribbons to hang down freely as a form of decoration.[5] With time, the Шаблон:Transliteration with Шаблон:Transliteration was further developed, and a ribbon was attached to each corner of the turban to make it more decorative; two ribbons were tied on the top of the head while the back ribbons were tied and were allowed to hang down freely.[5] The Шаблон:Transliteration with Шаблон:Transliteration could also have all four ribbons tied at the back of the head and allowed to hang down freely.[9] The Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Lang-zh), a Шаблон:Transliteration with a big and forward top Шаблон:Transliteration, was created by Emperor Zhongzong and became prevalent during his reign when he awarded this type of Шаблон:Transliteration to his officials.[2] During the reign of Emperor Xuanzong, the Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Lang-zh), a Шаблон:Transliteration with a small and round top jinzi became popular around the year 726 AD.[2] Moreover, by adding wire or silk strings inside the added ribbons, the Шаблон:Transliteration could take different shapes and styles depending on its wearer's liking.[5] However, in the Tang dynasty, only the Emperors could use these hard ribbons; these hard ribbons would be bent upward.[10]Шаблон:Rp The Tang dynasties emperor wore a Шаблон:Transliteration with two upturned tails until the Five dynasties period.[9] The Tang dynasty emperors also wore the Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Lang-zh).[9]
| Types of futou | Description | Pictures | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ruanjiao putou | A typical type of headwear in the Tang dynasty and was an important precursor to the Шаблон:Transliteration developed in the succeeding dynasties. Sometimes, 2 or 4 narrow and long ribbons were tied to the back of the Шаблон:Transliteration and were allowed to hang down freely down the back of its wearer[3]Шаблон:Rp | Файл:Tang Emperor Taizong 2.jpg | Файл:Prince Zhanghuai's tomb, eunuchs.JPG |
| Zheshang jin (Шаблон:Lang-zh), | A type of form of ruanjiao putou which consisted of square-piece of cloth wrap around the head; the two ends of the fabric were then tied at the back at either side of the neck and were then wrapped around the head before being together above the forehead.[3]Шаблон:Rp | Файл:Figures in a cortege, tomb of Li Xian, Tang Dynasty.jpg | |
| Chuijiao Putou (Шаблон:Lang-zh) | A black hat with two drooped down wing-like flaps. | Файл:Tangxuanzong.jpg | |
Five dynasties and ten kingdoms period
In the Five dynasties period, more styles of Шаблон:Transliteration were created including the Шаблон:Transliteration with wide feet which looked like fans or banana leaves which surrounded the front of the head; and the Шаблон:Transliteration with curved feet which turned upwards before bending downward.[9]
In the Ma Chu, painted silk was used in the Шаблон:Transliteration.[9] Ma Xifan also wore the horns of a dragon (Шаблон:Lang-zh), a Шаблон:Transliteration with extremely long feet on both sides.[9]
During the Later Jin, Emperor Liu Min used a Шаблон:Transliteration with long and straight feet which were more than one foot in length; the Song dynasty later kept the tradition of using this style of Шаблон:Transliteration as a standard.[9] It is also attested in the Song Shi that the Шаблон:Transliteration had become straight and flat since the Five dynasties period.[9]
Song dynasty
The Шаблон:Transliteration was popular in the Song dynasty,[5] and it was commonly worn all classes of people ranging from commoners to emperors wore Шаблон:Transliteration.[10]Шаблон:Rp During the Song dynasty, the black muslin, which was mainly used to make the Шаблон:Transliteration, was replaced by other materials, such as muslin or lacquered muslin.[10]Шаблон:Rp The Шаблон:Transliteration could also be found with supports made out of wood, and therefore they could look like hats and caps of various styles.[5] Hard ribbons were also used;[10]Шаблон:Rp and all the Шаблон:Transliteration in this period had hard feet.[9] There were 5 main types of Шаблон:Transliteration in this period: the Шаблон:Transliteration (also called Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Lang-zh)) which was worn by people of all social classes (including both the upper and lower classes[9]); the "bent-feet" Шаблон:Transliteration, the Шаблон:Transliteration (Шаблон:Lang-zh), the "upward" Шаблон:Transliteration, and the "downwind" Шаблон:Transliteration.[10]Шаблон:Rp
According to the Song Shi, the Шаблон:Transliteration became the national standard form of Шаблон:Transliteration in the Song dynasty for the emperor and the officials on any occasion, except when they had to take a carriage.[9] The Шаблон:Transliteration worn by the Song dynasty officials had an extended reclined feet; it was developed by having two hard ribbons made out with iron wire or bamboo strips attached at the back of the Шаблон:Transliteration.[10]Шаблон:Rp According to the Pedantic Remarks of the Confucians by Yu Yan, this form of Шаблон:Transliteration might have been developed to prevent the officials from whispering to each other during court audience with the Emperor.[10]Шаблон:Rp On some special occasions (e.g. the imperial court banquets, or the longevity ceremonies held for the royal family), Song court officials would put flowers on their Шаблон:Transliteration; this was referred as Flower pinning.[10]Шаблон:Rp The Song emperors would sometimes send fresh flowers or man-made flowers which were exclusive to the use of the imperial court to his courtier; this later become a form of etiquette in the Song dynasty court.[10]Шаблон:RpIt is also recorded in the Song Shi that the upward Шаблон:Transliteration was used by people (including the Emperor and the officials) when they found themselves in narrow spaces, such as in a carriage.[9]
According to the first volume of the History Narrated at Ease in the section The Etiquette by Wang Dechen (1036 –1116), in the early Song dynasty, a type Шаблон:Transliteration, called front-folded scarf, was worn by some people.[10]Шаблон:Rp The front-folded scarf was folded and tied at the front region of the head was worn by some people.[10]Шаблон:Rp The back-folded scarf was a type Шаблон:Transliteration which would be bent backward; it started to be worn after the Shaosheng period (i.e. after 1098 AD).[10]Шаблон:Rp Following the Shaosheng period, there were many changes in the styles of Шаблон:Transliteration.[10]Шаблон:Rp
There were also other forms of Шаблон:Transliteration, such as the colourful flower-shaped Шаблон:Transliteration embedded with gold lines which were sold in market of Dongjing; the curved-feet Шаблон:Transliteration or the flower-like Шаблон:Transliteration with feet curved backwards were also worn by some warriors; the long feet Шаблон:Transliteration was favoured by the musical instrument plays of the imperial music office; the lustreless Шаблон:Transliteration, and the white crêpe Шаблон:Transliteration which was worn during funerals.[10]Шаблон:Rp
| Types of futou | Description | Pictures | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Zhanjiao Putou Шаблон:Lang-zh | It consisted of a black hat with two wing-like flaps which extends outward. The thin flaps were stiff and straight, and could extend up to almost a meter each. | Файл:SongTaizu1.jpg | Файл:Sima Guang 1.jpg | Файл:Emperor Yingzong of Song.jpg |
Liao dynasty
In the Khitan-led Liao dynasty, the Khitans shaved their hair in a style called kunfa and wore light hats made of felt or helmets which were more suitable for their horse riding activities instead of wearing the lacquered Шаблон:Transliteration; however the Шаблон:Transliteration did not disappear in this period and continued to be depicted in the Liao dynasty tomb murals, including the curved leg Шаблон:Transliteration.[9]
Yuan dynasty
Шаблон:See also In the Mongol-led Yuan dynasty, the Шаблон:Transliteration continued to be worn since the Yuan dynasty court followed the Song dynasty standards regarding official costumes:[9] Шаблон:Blockquote
Ming dynasty / "Wushamao" (乌纱帽)
During the Ming dynasty, a type of Шаблон:Transliteration was to be worn by government officials as part of the court uniform, called Шаблон:Transliteration (乌纱帽).[14] Шаблон:Transliteration resembled the futou used in the early Tang dynasty, but followed the crafting methods of the Song dynasty by using lacquered muslin and wooden or metal frames to cast its shape. The shape of the feet varies depending on the era, with some resembling the curved leaf appearance of the prior dynasties or the straight wing-like feet in the late Ming dynasty.[15][16] The Ming dynasty also kept the tradition of using straight-feet Шаблон:Transliteration; however, by the shape of the Шаблон:Transliteration worn in the Ming dynasty diverted from that worn in the Song dynasty: the feet became shorter with time and some of these Шаблон:Transliteration became less than forty centimetres.[9] The forty centimetre long straight-feet, painted linen Шаблон:Transliteration was worn by both the military and civil officials for official business according to the Ming Shi.[9] The feet of the Ming dynasty straight-feet Шаблон:Transliteration were not completely straight and had a curved tip which would bend upwards.[9]
| Types of futou | Description | Pictures | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Zhanchi Futou/putou (Шаблон:Transliteration), also known as the wushamao (Шаблон:Lang-zh) | It is a headwear of Ming dynasty officials, consisting of a black hat with two wing-like flaps of thin, oval shaped boards on each side. According to the Collected Statutes of the Ming Dynasty (Шаблон:Transliteration), ordinary citizens are not allowed to wear this headdress unless attending wedding ceremonies or events involving any noble families/officials. In modern China, wushamao is commonly used as a metaphor for officials and government posts. The Zhanchi Futou was also adopted by neighbouring countries. | Файл:沈度半身像.jpgФайл:程文德.jpgФайл:Xu Xianqing.jpg | ||
| Zhanjiao Putou (Шаблон:Lang-zh) | It was based on the Song dynasty's zhanjiao putou; in the Ming dynasty, it was worn by Ming civil officials at court assemblies when they would present memorials or retirement notices to the Ming rulers.[3]Шаблон:Rp | Файл:Gu Dingchen 顾鼎臣.jpgФайл:吕光洵.jpgФайл:王鏊像.jpg | ||
| Файл:Zhang Cong.jpg | ||||
| Yishan guan (Шаблон:Lang-zh) | A type of futou made of lacquered silk which is formed on a wooden frame. At the back of the hat, there is a tall extension which is molded into 2 symmetrical bulbous shapes; there are 2 ribbons which are fastened to the hat's lower back and straight up extending just beyond the top protrusion.[3]Шаблон:Rp It is also a type of guan. | Файл:Hongwu2.jpgФайл:Portrait de l'empereur Ming Muzong.jpg | ||
| Файл:Hat, Tomb of Ming Prince Zhu Tan (10144666514).jpg | Файл:Hat, Tomb of Ming Prince Zhu Tan (10144844026).jpg | Файл:Golden Crown Replica of King Wanli.jpg | ||
Derivatives and influences
See also
Notes
References
External links
Шаблон:Ming dynasty topics Шаблон:Types of Han Chinese clothing Шаблон:Hats Шаблон:Historical clothing Шаблон:Crowns
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ 2,00 2,01 2,02 2,03 2,04 2,05 2,06 2,07 2,08 2,09 2,10 2,11 2,12 2,13 2,14 Шаблон:Cite journal
- ↑ 3,0 3,1 3,2 3,3 3,4 3,5 3,6 3,7 3,8 Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ 5,0 5,1 5,2 5,3 5,4 5,5 Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ 9,00 9,01 9,02 9,03 9,04 9,05 9,06 9,07 9,08 9,09 9,10 9,11 9,12 9,13 9,14 9,15 9,16 9,17 9,18 9,19 9,20 9,21 9,22 Шаблон:Cite thesis
- ↑ 10,00 10,01 10,02 10,03 10,04 10,05 10,06 10,07 10,08 10,09 10,10 10,11 10,12 10,13 10,14 10,15 10,16 10,17 10,18 10,19 10,20 10,21 Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ 11,0 11,1 Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ 13,0 13,1 Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite book
- ↑ 薛天纬，“乌纱帽”小考，《学林漫录》六集
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
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