The Ghanaian Smock or Tani is a fabric worn by both women and men in Ghana.[1] It is the most popular traditional attire in the country. The fabric is called Tani in Dagbani, while the male and female wear are respectively called Bin'gmaa and Bin'mangli. The smock is formally worn with a hat (zipligu), footwear (muɣri), and a trouser (kurugu).[2]
The smock is also called Bun-nwↃ or Bana by Mamprusis, fugu in Mosi, batakari in the southern regions, Шаблон:Transl in Frafra, and Banaa in Kusaal both in the upper east region.[3] It is worn by Royals and civilians across Dagbon and other northern regions, but popular across Ghana. The smock originated in the northern region of Ghana, during the reign of Yaa NaaZanjina, but widely used in West Africa and across the world. It is similar to the national attire of Burkina Faso known as faso dan fadi.
The smock and Kente cloth are the national dress of Ghana. Kente cloth originated in the southern region of Ghana.
How it is made
The smock is traditionally made from hand-loomed strips comprising a blend of dyed and undyed cotton yarns. It is intricately sewn together by hand, resulting in a distinctive plaid pattern that characterizes the smock.[4] Some variations showcase additional artistic elements, such as embroidery adorning the neckline.[5]
A significant accessory to the smock is the Zipligu, a hat worn in conjunction with this traditional attire.[6][7] An interesting aspect of the production process is the division of labour: women are traditionally responsible for making the strips, while men take on the task of making the smock itself.
Historically, the smock was rarely seen in the West. As recently as the 1990s, immigrants from Ghana were the only individuals seen wearing the smock. All of that changed as the popularity of films produced in Ghana increased among Black Americans and Caribbeans. In recent years people of African descent have started wearing smocks to churches, mosques, African festivals, and Kwanzaa celebrations in major Western cities like New York and Kingston, Jamaica.
Popular culture
A man is seen wearing a smock in the opening scene of the Jackie Aygemang movie, I Knew Nothing Till You Taught Me.
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