Английская Википедия:Eau de toilette
Eau de toilette (Шаблон:IPA-fr, meaning "grooming water")Шаблон:Refn is a lightly scented perfume.[1] It is also referred to as aromatic waters and has a high alcohol content.[2] It is usually applied directly to the skin after bathing or shaving.[3][4] It is traditionally composed of alcohol and various volatile oils.[5] Traditionally these products were named after a principal ingredient; some being geranium water, lavender water, lilac water, violet water, spirit of myrcia and 'eau de Bretfeld'.[6] Because of this, eau de toilette was sometimes referred to as "toilet water".[7]
In modern perfumery, eau de toilette has less concentrated fragrance than perfume (eau de parfum) and more than cologne (eau de Cologne).[8][9]
Types
Eau de toilette is a weaker concentration of fragrance than perfume.[10][11] The concentration of aromatic ingredients is typically as follows (ascending concentration):
- Splash and after shave: 1–3% aromatic compounds
- Eau de Cologne (EdC): Citrus type perfumes with about 2–6% perfume concentrate aromatic compounds[12]
- Eau de toilette (EdT): 5–15% (typical ~10%) aromatic compounds
- Eau de parfum (EdP), parfum de toilette (PdT): 10–20% (typical ~15%) aromatic compounds. Sometimes listed as "eau de perfume" or "millésime".
- Perfume extract: 15–40% (IFRA: typical 20%) aromatic compounds
Perfume oils are often diluted with a solvent, though this is not always the case, and its necessity is disputed. By far the most common solvent for perfume oil dilution is ethanol or a mixture of ethanol and water. Perfume has a mixture of about 10–20% perfume oils mixed with alcohol (acting as a diffusing agent delivering the fragrant odor) and a trace of water. Colognes have about 3–5% perfume oil mixed with 80–90% alcohol with about 5–15% water in the mix. Originally, eau de cologne was a mixture of citrus oils from such fruits as lemons, oranges, tangerines, limes, and grapefruits. These were combined with such substances as lavender and neroli (orange-flower oil). Toilet water has the least amount of perfume oil mixture among the three main liquid "perfumery" categories. It has only about 2–8% of some type of perfume oil and 60–80% alcohol dispersent with water making up the difference.[13][14] Toilet waters are a less concentrated form of these above types of alcohol-based perfumes.[15][16] Traditionally cologne is usually made of citrus oils and fragrances, while toilet waters are not limited to this specification.[17][18]
History
Hungarian Eau de toilette, an alcohol based perfume that is the predecessor of eau de cologne, was first produced in the fourteenth century, supposedly by a Hungarian man for Queen Elisabeth of Hungary.[19][20] This toilet water was called "eau de la reine de hongrie" or Hungary Water, and contained the herb rosemary, which allowed the scent to evaporate slowly on the skin.[21][22] However, some early scientists, including Johann Beckmann, doubt that it was created for the Queen of Hungary.Шаблон:Citation needed
The King of France Louis XIV (1638–1715) used a concoction of scents called "heavenly water" to perfume his shirts; It consisted of aloewood, musk, orange flower, rose water and other spices.[23]
Some Eau de toilette were once considered restorative skin toners with medical benefits.[24][25][26] The journal Medical Record reported in 1905 that a toilet water spray restores energies lost in business, social, and domestic situations.[27][28] During the fourteenth through sixteenth centuries a type of toilet water called "plague waters" was supposed to drive away the bubonic plague.[29][30]
Varieties
- Carmelite Water – a water of lemon balm, orange flower, angelica root, and spices prepared for Charles V of France, first made in 1379 by the nuns of a Carmelite abbey.[31][32][33][34]
- Carnation Toilet Water – extract of Jasmine 2.5 pints, extract of Orange Flower 2.5 pints, extract of Rose 5 pints, tincture of Vanilla 20 ounces, Oil of Pink (synthetic) 2 ounces.[35]
- Creole Toilet Water – to 6.75 ounces of orris root cut in small pieces put 1.5 pint of French brandy. Allow this mix to stand for 2 weeks, stirring frequently. Then filter the mix and add 3 pints of French brandy and 3 drops of oil of orange blossoms. Add 0.75 fluid ounce of oil of geranium. Distill and add a little coumarin essence.[36]
- Eau de lavand ambre – a favorite with Spanish women who use it in their hair as well as on the skin after bathing.[37]
- Florida Water – based on the nineteenth-century formula for a commercially prepared toilet water that mixes floral essential oils.[38]
- Geranium Toilet Water – oil of rose geranium, 2 ounces; tincture of orris root, 2 ounces; tincture of musk, 1 drop; rose water, 8 ounces: alcohol, 4 pints.[36]
- Heliotrope Toilet Water – heliotropine, 2 drops; rose oil, 15 minims; bergamot oil, a half drop; neroli oil, 5 minims; alcohol, 10 ounces; water, 6 ounces.[39]
- Honey water[14] – an old-time English toilet water. The British Pharmaceutical Codex gives the formula.[40]
- Jasmine toilet water – made with spirits of cologne, jasmine, and alcohol.[41]
- Kananga Water – is a "holy water" used for purification in revival ceremonies.[42]
- Lavender water[14][43] – a formula called "upper Ten" consists of 1 fluid ounce of oil of lavender, 8 fluid ounces of deodorized alcohol, 3 fluid ounces of rose water, and 80 grains of carbonate of magnesia.[44]
- Nosegay – distilled honey water with cloves, lavender and neroli.[45]
- Oriental Toilet Water – an extensive list of ingredients is given in the Useful and Practical Notes section of National Druggist.[46]
- Rose water toilet water – extract of rose 1 pint, of tuberose 1 pint, of cassia 1 pint, of jasmine 4 ounces, tincture of civet 3 ounces. Popular in the Middle East especially Egypt and called 'maward'.[47]
- Viennese Cosmetic Toilet Water – bruised almonds, 15 parts; water of orange flower, 62 parts; water of roses, 62 parts. Rub up the almonds with the waters, allow to stand. Later add borate of soda, 1 part; spirit of benzoin, 2 parts. Dissolve.[36]
- White Rose Toilet Water – one ounce of triple extract of white rose, 3 drops of oil of rose, 3 drops of oil of rose geranium, 26 ounces of cologne spirits, and 6 ounces of hot water.[44]
- Hugh C. Muldoonin submitted various toilet water formulas he called "Own-make Toilet Specialties" to the Bulletin Of Pharmacy in 1917.[48]
See also
Footnotes
References
Sources
- Beckmann, Johann, A History of Inventions and Discoveries: In Four Volumes 2, 1817
- Baker, William Henry, A dictionary of men's wear..., W. H. Baker, 1908
- Better Nutrition magazine, Nov 1999, Vol. 61, No. 11, ISSN 0405-668X, Published by Active Interest Media, Inc.
- Booth, Nancy M., Perfumes, splashes & colognes: discovering & crafting your personal fragrances, Storey Publishing, 1997, Шаблон:ISBN
- Bulletin of pharmacy, Volume 36, E.G. Swift, 1922
- Beauty—its attainment and preservation, Butterick Pub. Co., Ltd., 1892
- Consumer reports, Volumes 25–26, Consumers Union of United States, 1960
- Cox, Nancy C., Perceptions of retailing in early modern England, Ashgate Publishing, Ltd., 2007, Шаблон:ISBN
- Cristiani, Richard S., Perfumery and kindred arts: A comprehensive treatise on perfumery, H. C. Baird, 1877
- Current opinion, Volume 32, The Current Literature Publishing Co., 1902
- Dewey, Willis Alonzo, Medical century, Volume 14, Medical Century Company., 1906
- Ebert, Albert Ethelbert, The Standard formulary, G.P. Engelhard & Co., 1897
- Fettner, Ann Tucker, Potpourri, incense, and other fragrant concoctions, Workman Pub. Co., 1977, Шаблон:ISBN
- Fletcher, Ella Adelia, Woman Beautiful, Kessinger Publishing, 1998, Шаблон:ISBN
- Frank, Marc Henry, Eugenics and Sex Relations for Men and Women, Kessinger Publishing, 2005, Шаблон:ISBN
- Griffin, Judy, Flowers That Heal: Aromas, Herbs, Essences and Other Secrets of the Fairies, Cosimo, Inc., 2002, Шаблон:ISBN
- Grolier, The New book of knowledge, Grolier, 1986, Шаблон:ISBN
- Groom, Nigel, The new perfume handbook, Springer, 1997, Шаблон:ISBN
- Halpern, Georges M., The Healing Trail: Essential Oils of Madagascar, Basic Health Publications, Inc., 2003, Шаблон:ISBN
- Hiss, A. Emil, The new standard formulary:, G.P. Engelhard, 1910
- Keithler, William R., The formulation of cosmetics and cosmetic specialties, Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1956
- Hopkins, Albert Allis, The Scientific American cyclopedia of formulas: partly based upon the 28th ed. of Scientific American cyclopedia of receipts, notes and queries, Munn & co., inc., 1910
- Lawless, Julia, The illustrated encyclopedia of essential oils: the complete guide to the use of oils in aromatherapy and herbalism, Barnes & Noble, 1995, Шаблон:ISBN
- Lillard, Benjamin, Practical druggist and pharmaceutical review of reviews, Volume 40, Lillard & Co., 1922
- Martin, George R., The mentor-world traveler, Volume 10, George R. Martin, 1922
- Miller, William Tyler, Garden & home builder, volume 13, Doubleday, Page and Company, 1911
- Müller, Peter M., Perfumes: art, science, and technology, Springer, 1994, Шаблон:ISBN
- Sherrow, Victoria, For appearance' sake: the historical encyclopedia of good looks, beauty, and grooming, Greenwood Publishing Group, 2001, Шаблон:ISBN
- Stoddart, David Michael, The scented ape: the biology and culture of human odour, Cambridge University Press, 1990, Шаблон:ISBN
- The National Druggist, Volume 42; H. R. Strong, 1912
Citations
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Cristiani, p. 117
- ↑ toilet water term meaning
- ↑ Distinguishing Colognes, Perfumes, Scents, & Toilet Waters
- ↑ Cox, p. 118
- ↑ Ebert, p. 304
- ↑ Lawless, p. 39
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Baker, p. 262
- ↑ Fettner, p. 102
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ perfume
- ↑ 14,0 14,1 14,2 Groom, p. 329
- ↑ eau de toil definition from the online Free Dictionary
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Grolier, p. 154
- ↑ Consumer reports, pp. 409–411
- ↑ Müller, p. 348
- ↑ Sherrow, p. 211
- ↑ Sherrow, p. 125
- ↑ The History of Perfume Шаблон:Webarchive
- ↑ Sherrow, p. 125 King Louis XIV (1638–1715) had his shirts scented with toilet water that included aloewood, rosewood, orangle flower, musk, and spices. The concoction was called "heavenly water" ...
- ↑ Better Nutrition magazine, Nov 1999, p. 34
- ↑ Hiss, pp. 918–919
- ↑ Frank, p. 414
- ↑ Dewey, p. 55
- ↑ Interstate druggist, Volume 7, page 333
- ↑ Stoddart, p. 154
- ↑ Dictionary of Traded Goods and Commodities, 1550–1820 by Nancy Cox and Karin Dannehl
- ↑ Booth, p. 157
- ↑ Reader's Digest – Make your own Fragrance
- ↑ Halpern, p. 37
- ↑ Booth, p. 82
- ↑ Lillard, p. 33
- ↑ 36,0 36,1 36,2 Hopkins, p. 875
- ↑ Fletcher, p. 219
- ↑ Miller, p. 99
- ↑ Hopkins, p. 876
- ↑ Hiss, p. 915
- ↑ Toilet Water ideas
- ↑ Шаблон:Cite web
- ↑ Country Wisdom Almanac: 373 Tips, Crafts, Home Improvements, Recipes, and Homemade Remedies
- ↑ 44,0 44,1 Keppel, p. 154
- ↑ Nosegay
- ↑ The National Druggist, Volume 42, p. 65
- ↑ Beauty—its attainment and preservation, p. 494
- ↑ Bulletin of pharmacy, p. 317